A lot of absolutely dogmatic statements in this threat. I just want my bullet launcher to go boom when needed. Like today. First shots through my “Heretic” of a Colt ; CR6920. Red coffee can at 100 yards.
Go to youtube an look up Grand Thumb for some of the best reviews on battle rifles you can find , then make a choice .About 1.5 yrs ago I bought my first AR15, the S&W m&p sport 2, when we started to see mass riots taking place. I bought it because it was affordable and available at the time. I made a lot of upgrades to it because the stock furniture on it was garbage. With that said, I consider this rifle to be mid tier and will get the job done.
now that I’ve had time to research and review other more expensive brands it begs the question, are there diminishing returns when spending $1500+ on an AR? I understand that the more expensive brands will typically use better materials and manufacturing processes, but at the end of the day are you really getting more for your money or are you just paying for the name brand?
I’m thinking that if I do buy another AR I’d want to get either a BCM, Geiselle or Daniel Defense. All of these brands have great reputations and are mildly more affordable than say Radian or Noveske.
Or you can buy a kit from any number of brands, throw in a stripped lower and be done.it takes an hr to assemble after you search for, find and order all the parts you want if you can find them and waiting for them to show up at your house.
I know you are just goofing around....but I DID have a 5.56 blow up and wipe out a mag and an extractor. I was testing a load, the previous load was good, the next load was .2 grains more, but still .4 grains under max.I just a while ago stopped turning my head and squinching both eyes shut when I test my reloads. I don’t need to start building my own guns.
Sort of agree.....Depending upon the manufacturer of the parts used.
While AR platform are supposed to modular, and considered "Legos for men," not every part attaches exactly as similar parts from other manufacturers. Sometimes it takes a bit of time to figure it out.
Or you could spend that same time searching for the specific pre-built gun with the correct barrel length, twist, chamber, handguards, trigger, and all the rest....it takes an hr to assemble after you search for, find and order all the parts you want if you can find them and waiting for them to show up at your house.
already did that 😂 Right now I have 3 contenders: BCM 14.5” recce rifle, Geissele Super Duty 14.5” and the Daniel Defense M4A1. The Geissele is at the top mainly because of the trigger and that it has a Surefire warcomp flash hider.Go to youtube an look up Grand Thumb for some of the best reviews on battle rifles you can find , then make a choice .
You might also consider the LWRC m6 and the FN tac3, i would consider both close contenders to what you just mentioned.already did that 😂 Right now I have 3 contenders: BCM 14.5” recce rifle, Geissele Super Duty 14.5” and the Daniel Defense M4A1. The Geissele is at the top mainly because of the trigger and that it has a Surefire warcomp flash hider.
I fear the guy with a cheap AR + training and mindset over the Armchair Rambo with $3K AR any day....Actually you do run into the Top Tier snobbery on other gun forums. There was just a thread on Snipershide where some were basically stating that if you didn't buy a $3K AR that you were going to die if shtf. Their common insult over there is "poors".
They conveniently seem to miss the postings from guys who have seen/had their top tier AR crap the bed and they were Geissele...KAK. This from people who are actually going there and doing that in the real world..
One reason that building your own (even just snapping a complete upper on a complete lower) is cheaper is that you aren't paying the 11% Federal tax on a complete gun.Same as Steve; I will say it again: I can build a similar rifle, nearly identical to theirs, and in many cases using THEIR parts even. What I won't have is the same price as they have on their parts nor their name stamped on the receiver.
Give me a matched Aero, Colt, or FN upper and lower, and after that, mine won't look any different from theirs.
Did you ever figure out why?I know you are just goofing around....but I DID have a 5.56 blow up and wipe out a mag and an extractor. I was testing a load, the previous load was good, the next load was .2 grains more, but still .4 grains under max.
Scary, but no parts left the gun at speed, no blood, no issues. Rebuilt the bolt and it works (but it is now a last ditch backup), and the gun is fine.
Sort of agree.....
I've built 18 AR's....never had ANY issues with that, until this last one. And it's not the small nor mismatched brand parts.
The Anderson lower I just built pinned to the first upper without issue, but the next upper, also an Anderson, it won't quite line up the takedown pin. Tried mixing and matching all my uppers and lowers, and the ONLY thing that won't work is THAT specific upper and lower combo, both of them will pin to EVERY other unit I have, and every other unit is 100% OK with swapping to everything else.
Fixed it by putting a rat tail file lightly through that one upper, and now everything works with everything, and the upper is still tight on any other lower I put it on.
So while I agree it CAN happen, tolerance stacking is a real thing....I'm not sure it's anything to worry about.
Or you could spend that same time searching for the specific pre-built gun with the correct barrel length, twist, chamber, handguards, trigger, and all the rest....
Cool your roll against the basic inexpensive M&P Sport. I picked one up about 5 years ago for $550 plus tax and it's been 100% reliable. Not the most accurate with my handloads, roughly 2.5 MOA but after 2500 rnds never a problem. I've never bothered to develop a handload for the rifle so accuracy may improve but for the money that rifle is a great deal considering most buyers aren't capable of sub moa shots without a prepared sandbag supported position.Wait a sec... are you saying that an $800 - $1,000 M&P Sport (or whatever) will be as reliable as a $2,200 DDM4 V7? I don't know much in the way of stats and numbers about how many rounds can be put through a semi-auto rifle before it begins to fail, but I have to think I'm paying for better materials and workmanship in a DD or POF rifle. This goes for the homebuilt arms as well. I stand to be corrected 'round here (that's easy), but what you're saying just isn't adding up...
+1I dont think anyone is saying the m&p or equivalent is not accurate or mostly reliable. The point is when you step up a tier you get the highest level of reliability possible, and the reason why is the features/specs of those guns are clearly on another level.
Bear in mind, 2500 rounds without an issue is a good indicator of reliable gun, but is still a low round count. I just tore down my lwrc after 2000 rounds straight in less than 2 months with no cleaning or oil (done on purpose for testing) and had zero malfunctions. It was gritty and nasty but still functioned like new. My round count is somwhere between 8-10k total on the rifle, i used to know exactly but lost track recently.