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I have traded for a Browning BAR II Safari in 300 win mag. This rifle will lay down some serious damage with long range accuracy in short order. Lacking any heavy caliber (.50 BMG) the .300 would do terminal damage on cars, trucks, tractors, electronic equipment should the need arise. I have seen several BARS on used racks most in 7mm mag running around $350 some with a good deal of wear most likely from hunting and handling that would make good additions to a survival battery.
 

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If you could find one , I like the Egyptian Hakim semi-auto in 8mm with some good military surplus steel core ammo.
 

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I had the same thought about my CZ 550 Safari Mag in 375 H&H. Those 300gr Dangerous game solids with a steel penatrator should be devastating on vehicles except armor. And they are considered sporting bullets due to there intended purpose of shooting elephant, hippo, and cape buffalo.
 

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Michigan Gun Nut
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I had the same thought about my CZ 550 Safari Mag in 375 H&H. Those 300gr Dangerous game solids with a steel penatrator should be devastating on vehicles except armor. And they are considered sporting bullets due to there intended purpose of shooting elephant, hippo, and cape buffalo.
too hard kicking. designed for short range work. I'd go for the BAR in a magnum. Make sure it has the BOSS on it.
 

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too hard kicking. designed for short range work. I'd go for the BAR in a magnum. Make sure it has the BOSS on it.
:confused:

I have, and have had, a few guns that kick harder, namely my Marlin guide gun in 45-70, NEF single shot 12 guage when shot with 3" and 3 1/2" shells, and a savage 110 in 300 win mag (bad stock design).

I flat out refuse to shoot 3 1/2" shells in that shot gun anymore, because it hurts so bad I've only done it twice. Running 50 rounds thru the 375 at the range is no problem. A muzzle break will kill your hearing, as well as anyone who happens to be close.

The hornady Dangerous game solids will penetrate 1/2" plate steel @ 50 yards when set over 76 grains of H414. It's hard to find a reliable source of bullets for smaller calibers designed for that much penetration, they have been declared "non-sporting" by ATF. I regularly take deer at distances between 200 and 400 yards with this rifle, except I use an expanding bullet. The rifle gives sub MOA. I also lose less meat to the 375 than even my 30-06.
 

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A Free Man
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A heavy loaded .308 or .30-06 will due terminal damage to all the targets you mentioned. Here's the difference, ammo is cheaper, ammo is more widely available, and recoil is less pronounced with the .308's or .30-06's.
My go to rifle is an M-1 Garand. If I cant solve the problem with 8rds of .30-06 then I need to re-evaluate my position.
 

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Possibly, but not usually, alot depends on where you live. In most areas 300 RUM is a gun store only proposition. And an expensive one at that.

Clemsonguy, I've never seen anything bigger than 300 win mag in a walmart in SC, and I'm sure we've been to some of the same Wal-marts.
 

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is that all the weapons you got? what type of terrain do you live in? dessert?plains? mountain? forrest? swamp?

if that is the only weapons you got i would get a 1911 apc.45 pistol ,a 12ga pump and if you can still find one an MAK 90 or 91 or nhm 91 or one of the older milled AK. what i look at in weapons is, that they will keep working in the long run with VERY little if any maintance.in extremely harsh conditions. thats reason why i asked what terrrain because of the question is range that important and that depends on your terrain. you got a good LONG range weapon already. also are you practiced/trained with that LONG range shooting? most ppl arnt,most long range rifles will out shoot the common marksman,most ppl dont know that it is a REAL skill to shoot long range shots.

most ppl who have not had any trainning should keep their range inside of 500yrds and that range will be a challenge for the untrained common shooter
 

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Cryptkeeper, I'm not sure exactly who your post was aimed at. Assuming it was me, I just talked about my big guns, since the thread was about magnum rifles for hard targets. The area of South Carolina I live in is hilly forest, hard wood and pine in varying ratios, with common swamps and river flood plains, with large areas of cleared agricultural lands, and crisscrossed by every type of right of way imaginable. The long range marksmanship part should have been taken care of in Army sniper school. And I have several other rifles, including a AR Carbine and and AK clone and a few handguns as well.

Clemsonguy, assuming he lives near Clemson, is in a thicker, more mountainous area, technically foothills, but the same general landscape, only more vertical.

South carolina doesn't change much from one end to the other, just gets flatter the furthur east you go. If it's a low area, it's probably a swamp at least part of the year.
 

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Ok, since you asked for thoughts on the topic.

Was talking to a gunsmith one day, he was in the store using the bead blaster where I worked on several of his projects. I picked one up and studied it. It was a short-barrel .375 H&H with a muzzle brake he had threaded to the barrel. Good job, the fine, and I mean *fine*, line between barrel and brake was not easy to see. I said nice work and inquired about the rifle. It was one he was doing for a State Trooper. Right off, my response was, "I didn't know they had elephant in WV." Grinning the whole way. . . But for him, that would make one heck of a roadblock rifle with solids.
Point two. In the recent "gun rag" "Guns & Ammo Book of Personal Defense" there is an article by Patrick Sweeney, titled "RFD : Rural Firearms Defense" it talks of the choices one may consider for rural living. Sweeney suggests a scoped rifle, minimum caliber .243 Win. A self-loader (HK-91/CETME, FAL, M1A) in preference to the usual lever or pump actions, and a "heavy." Of course, a M1 Garand .30-06 w/ AP is mentioned, but Sweeney's choice? A .375 H&H.

Years ago, Jan Libourel wrote some "Survival Guns" articles in the now defunct "American Survival Guide Self Reliance Journal" magazine. One, in the Oct 2000 issue related to "Firearms for Rural Living." It was written, not from the matter of "survival" "TSHF" or Self defense, but more for practical choices for firearms selection. His suggestions? Several guns, of course. A .22 rimfire, either .22 LR (able to use CB caps to Hyper-Vel .22s) or .22 WMR (the alternative). A shotgun, Libourel suggested 12G for versatility and a pump-action for rapidity of fire potential for self-defense. And a higher-powered rifle, like the .30-30 WCF was suggested. Of course, as noted, a military surplus Mauser or Enfield would stand in well for the high-powered model. For practicality sake, some emphasis was put on Libourel having a Winchester M-9422 in .22WMR and a Marlin M-336 (common action, ease of practise/handling).
 
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