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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hey guys, a friend gave me a "machete" if that's what you call it. He got it for under 10$ and it is a stainless steel made from china piece of junk!

But since im bored and nothing better to do i had an idea to make it alot stronger and maybe if im lucky even a survival worthy knife!

The first thing you notice is that tiny little piece of rod connecting the handle to the knife, it looks like with one swing it would break off


just simply tack welding on there



so i searched around and came up with a bad that would fit over the neck of the handle. and here it is....



real sturdy and strong, i use it as my prybar for misc. projects



I cut off a chunk about the same size as the handle that is came with


The new handle is MUCH stronger and thicker
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I cut a slot in the new handle, for the knife to slide into


used a cut off grinder


made sure it fit nicely


welded each side of the handle, it was only my 3rd time welding, sorry for the horrible bead!


after i welded it it i use a grinder and made the handle smooth


then i spray painted the handle black to match up with the rest of the knife
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i left the rod in place to screw the bottom piece of the knife back on, later down the road i was thinking of putting something different on the end such as a big nut, or a hammer end or something, let me know your ideas!

The finished (for now) project



definitely a lot more durable, however i wont be able to take it out and test it till next weekend!
 

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i got the time for sure, what does that do to the blade? do i need to make sure its real sharp before i do it?
Here are the instructions I was given when trying to harden some steel.

1.Heat the steel using a torch or a furnace with bellows. Continue until the steel glows red-hot. Work in a well-ventilated area and wear protective clothing, heavy gloves and eye protection.


2.Pick up the red-hot steel with your tongs and immediately immerse it into the motor oil. Allow the steel to remain in the oil for approximately 30 to 60 seconds.


3.Remove the steel from the oil and wash the item using dish soap and water. Be careful not to drop or strike your steel, as it will be brittle at this stage (much like glass), and could shatter.


4.Reheat the now-clean steel until it is blue-hot. Blue is the color steel turns just before it becomes red-hot.


5.Pick up the blue-hot steel with your tongs and immediately immerse it in a vat of room-temperature water. Allow the steel to cool in the water.
Your steel is now case-hardened. The outside layer of steel will be at least 40 percent harder than when you started, and your steel will be malleable, rather than brittle like glass.
 

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Here are the instructions I was given when trying to harden some steel.

1.Heat the steel using a torch or a furnace with bellows. Continue until the steel glows red-hot. Work in a well-ventilated area and wear protective clothing, heavy gloves and eye protection.


2.Pick up the red-hot steel with your tongs and immediately immerse it into the motor oil. Allow the steel to remain in the oil for approximately 30 to 60 seconds.


3.Remove the steel from the oil and wash the item using dish soap and water. Be careful not to drop or strike your steel, as it will be brittle at this stage (much like glass), and could shatter.



4.Reheat the now-clean steel until it is blue-hot. Blue is the color steel turns just before it becomes red-hot.


5.Pick up the blue-hot steel with your tongs and immediately immerse it in a vat of room-temperature water. Allow the steel to cool in the water.
Your steel is now case-hardened. The outside layer of steel will be at least 40 percent harder than when you started, and your steel will be malleable, rather than brittle like glass.
Aaah, that works with carbon steel, not stainless.
Of course with "China steel" who knows what you really have.


If you do try it when you dip it both in water and oil make sure you swish it around really good. This insures consistent cooling down the length of the blade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Aaah, that works with carbon steel, not stainless.
Of course with "China steel" who knows what you really have.


If you do try it when you dip it both in water and oil make sure you swish it around really good. This insures consistent cooling down the length of the blade.
hmmm it does say stainless steal on it, so can i still do it? and if so will it still have the better strength or is it not even worth it?
 

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Aaah, that works with carbon steel, not stainless.
Of course with "China steel" who knows what you really have.


If you do try it when you dip it both in water and oil make sure you swish it around really good. This insures consistent cooling down the length of the blade.
I assumed with a 10$ knife, it couldn't hurt. Worst case scenario, you burn up some time.
 

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hmmm it does say stainless steal on it, so can i still do it? and if so will it still have the better strength or is it not even worth it?
Cheap stainless is bound to have some carbon so it might work some. How much is if any is impossible to say.
It is after all a minimum investment and you won't know if you don't try it. Any increase in hardness will be a plus. Run a file across it before and after so you can tell.
You may get lucky.
Keep us posted?
 
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