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Discussion Starter #1
OK guys I'm a bit confused here.

I'm shooting a 1X red dot out of an AR-15. A lot of what I read says do a 50 yard Zero but here is my question.

If you have a 50 yard zero and you shoot at 25 yards...the bullet will hit 1 to 1.5 Low. So at 15 yards is it what? 2.5 low?

If you are really close let's say 5-10 yards and you have to take a precise shot and hit within 1" do I still need a 50 yard zero....and what not a 25 yard zero?

A 1X is a fighting optic....so wouldn't you want all the accuracy to be 50 yards and under?

Thoughts?
HK
 

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Gettin There
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Approximately 10yds and in aim for the hairline and it should hit about in the eyebox, but the only way to learn how it works for sure is to go out and try it.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

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Why do you ask? 2 Dogs!
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If your red dot is 1.5" above the center line of your bore, with a 50yd zero, there no way you could shoot lower than the 1.5" at any range closer

With a 50yd zero, you should be .75" low at 25yds and at 15yds you'd be 1.36" low....just using math

How far above the bore is your sight?

What load are you using? (e.g. B.C., Velocity, Bullet weight)

What shot requires that kind of precision at that close of a range?
 

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The 36 yard zero holds lots of promise and is something I will likely play with some more at some time, but as of now my 1X optics are all zeroed at 50 yards and anything magnified is zeroed at 100 yards.

A lot of this comes from my optics ranging options being based on a 100 yard zero and the rest of it is based on the particular limitations of where I shoot!

SD
 

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I like the 100 yd zero because you're pretty much good to go out to 250 or so yds with that zero, using an AR.

If you use center of mass as an aim point, if you're close, you'll hit approx 1.5 in high, throat level. from 150 - 250, same aim point (COM) will be pretty much COM.

ARs will not print Happy faces, no matter what OEM. Gotta go to a high end .308 for that stuff and you STILL have to compensate. I don't think in a SHTF scenario, should you ever have to misfortune to actually engage with and human assaulter, that you would ever have that kind of time. Go for a zero that gives you plenty of range spread using a COM hold.

Ya'll shoot straight and stay safe out there.

WW
WE ALL WANT TO BE FREE, BUT VERY FEW OF US WANT TO BE BRAVE. FOR ALL OF US TO BE FREE, A FEW MORE OF US, ESPECIALLY NOW, MUST BE BRAVE, AND THAT'S THE HISTORY OF AMERICA

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Ill be glad when they make the change. Nothing seems to work anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a Barrett Rec 7 5.56 with a Vortex Crossfire Red Dot scope sit's up about 1.5" inches.

I'll be using 55 grain winchester fmj for the most part

From what everybody is tell me.....at 5-10 yards 2.5 hold over should do it?

HK
 

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I have a Barrett Rec 7 5.56 with a Vortex Crossfire Red Dot scope sit's up about 1.5" inches.

I'll be using 55 grain winchester fmj for the most part

From what everybody is tell me.....at 5-10 yards 2.5 hold over should do it?

HK
Ummmm.....maybe?

Do you mean the BASE of your red dot is 1.5” over axis?

Then yes, approximately.

At those distances, NOTHING is holding still, you certainly shouldn’t be, so center mass and multiple trigger presses are the usual technique.

I use a 25 meter/27 yard zero on irons and red dots, just like we used back in the day. Point and shoot on center mass out to 300.

Scopes get a 100 yard zero, because that’s traditional for scopes, and many BDC reticle are set that way, and turrets adjust easily from there.
 

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OK guys I'm a bit confused here.

I'm shooting a 1X red dot out of an AR-15. A lot of what I read says do a 50 yard Zero but here is my question.

If you have a 50 yard zero and you shoot at 25 yards...the bullet will hit 1 to 1.5 Low. So at 15 yards is it what? 2.5 low?

If you are really close let's say 5-10 yards and you have to take a precise shot and hit within 1" do I still need a 50 yard zero....and what not a 25 yard zero?

A 1X is a fighting optic....so wouldn't you want all the accuracy to be 50 yards and under?

Thoughts?
HK
1x is good for 'fighting' to at least 300 yards.

a 25 yard zero will have you shooting 8.4" high at 200

a 50 yard zero and you are only .5" high at 200 and you are between 1.7 low at 5 yards, and 1.5 high 1t 150 so for a a huge range you are going to be within two inches of point of aim, compared to a 25 yard zero that is more than 2" off at 50 yards and doesn't get back in that range until 360 yards!

A 50 yard zero near zero is simply a way to keep the bullet close to point of aim for largest range you can.
 

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When you start gaming the close range CQB zero arena, there's two schools of thought:

#1. Some dedicated CQB guys like to correct for an off-set zero (based upon height over bore for their optic) and gamble that most shots will be at interior distances. So they can do precision shots against partially exposed targets, usually inside of 25 meters. POA = POI.

#2. Other guys just choose a preferred field fire zero for distance shooting... and train to adjust that typical 1.5"-2.5" vertical offset caused by the height above bore optic. In other words, expect shots to group slightly low during close ranged engagements. POA = POI located at 1.5-2.5 inches low.

No big deal either way.

I always went with solution #2. Zeroed for my max effective range with an AR rifle or carbine. For me, that was accomplished with the typical Army 25m zero (adjusted/confirmed at 300m - 325m depending upon ammo). Because I've always wanted better accuracy at the longest practical engagement ranges. A 50/200 meter zero (which is still a decent choice) didn't cut it for me. Because I needed to be effective at both interior distances and when I popped outside to cover much greater distances. Typically with a fixed 1X optic. Or a variable 1 x 4.

At much closer CQB training ranges, I just developed the habit of aiming a little bit high inside of the shoot house. My goal was to be zeroed to hit consistently out at 300+ meters... not in closer. Closer in was always easier. Especially after decades of training.

It's a rifle... not a submachine gun. I expect accuracy out to the longest practical range that my weapon, its cartridge, and my marksmanship are capable of delivering. I've never owned that seemingly magical ability to predict the future that I see all over the internet.

The one that goes something like... "Oh, all my SHTF engagements will be inside of 200 (or 100) yards...". Or the trope that goes... "Oh, no self defense shooting will be regarded as justified unless it happens inside of "X" yards (100, 50, 25, 10, etc.). 'Cause you don't have legal justification to engage at beyond close distance."

If you bought a performance car... would you put a governor on it that only allowed you to drive at maximum legal highway speeds? Of course not. The whole idea of a fast car is that (on demand) it actually can go fast. Assuming you can handle that kind of driving performance.

My rifle is zeroed to make it group consistently at the longest distance I'm able to visually PID a threat and also deliver effective hits against moving targets. Decades of experience tells me that's a 300+ meter sweet spot (with a 5.56 AR). My guns get zeroed to handle that kind of distance. I am not talking about how far somebody can group with an ACOG on the KD range. I'm talking about acquiring and hitting targets that move rapidly, seek cover, and shoot back.

You can pickup a completely un-zeroed AR and make effective hits inside of 25 or 50 yards. The same cannot be said for attempting accurate shots with the same weapon out at 300+.

Don't let the Short Range Game handicap the Max Effective Range one. Zero for the longest range you can consistently handle... and you'll be able to hit accurately at both longer distance... and up close.

YMMV.
 

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I have a Barrett Rec 7 5.56 with a Vortex Crossfire Red Dot scope sit's up about 1.5" inches.

I'll be using 55 grain winchester fmj for the most part

From what everybody is tell me.....at 5-10 yards 2.5 hold over should do it?

HK
The 50 yd zero a lot of people are talking about these days is based on this right here...

As you can see on these targets, the different zeros will give you different resulting patterns of impacts at various ranges with their respective ranges. So... you decide at what ranges you are likely to be engaging at, and use that zero. For a lot of people these days, the 50 just seems to work well, because it keeps the group the tightest, for a good average of distance allowing for very simple no stress shooting of just aim center mass, and you'll hit from point blank to 250 or 300 yds...

Now, there's a caveat... These zeros are an average for a typical fighting gun, so it's probably for something like a 14.5" or so. It may work well for guys with a 10.3 to 12.5 with a little loss of range, but as with anything, you'll need to confirm with your own... I run a 10.3, a 50 yd zero, and it works for me, but I don't plan to engage past 200. Not because I'd miss, but because of the loss of velocity means loss of energy at range.

Being as you're running a very short 7.5, you're gonna lose a lot of that range. Not just in drop, but in effectiveness (energy) at distance, so yeah, you got yourself a close in tool there. You could probably hit a target at 300 if you practiced... but you wouldn't do it much damage.

Still, it's not going to be that far off for your close in shots. Even a 50 yd zero will only put you no more than 1.5" low at home defense range, so If you need to take out a bad guy who has your wife hostage at 12 ft... put the dot right at his hairline. The round should go where you need.

Again... CONFIRM on targets at the range. Every weapon is different.
 
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