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Hello everyone. So after doing a lot of research I decided to take on a duracoat project and see what the hype is all about. I originally wanted to try a Beretta 92 for a military theme, but I found a good deal on a used Taurus PT92, which fit the bill nicely. For magazines I picked up some milsurp M9 varieties, to which I added some Beretta floorplates and modified to work with the Taurus. For a color scheme I chose a two-tone combination of tactical black and tactical dark earth from Duracoat's "tactical ultra flat" line of colors. I found the duracoat easy to work with and would definately recommend it. Here are some lessons learned along the way:
1) Do your research before starting. Look at some examples of what you want to work on and compare colors. Know what you want the final product to look like and plan accordingly.
2) Completely disassemble your weapon as far as you are comfortable with. You will need to go farther than a basic field strip to properly clean and prep the surfaces for the duracoat. When I took out the mainspring and hammer strut it looked like a rats nest in there.
3) Prep the surfaces completely. The duracoat must have a somewhat rough surface to bond with. Many recommend sand blasting, but I did fine with some 320 and 400 grit sandpaper. Carb cleaner worked well to blast out any residual oils from all the little nooks and crannies.
4) Invest in a air compressor. Some people try to get by with the canned air, but I've heard way more bad than good using those to spray with. An air compressor is also a great help during prep and cleanup.
5) Keep your distance. The duracoat will run if you get too close (ask me how I know). For me 6 to 8 inches was the sweet spot for spraying at 40 psi.
6) Let the duracoat cure before messing with your gun. I plan on waiting at least a month before going to the range. This stuff needs sufficient time to fully harden.
7) Mask off the weapon internals completely. I got a little too much on some of the pins and grooves and had to break out the file and sandpaper to make everything go back together smoothly.
8) Don't forget the PPG. Glasses, respirator, and latex gloves should be considered mandatory.
So that's about it, now I have to think of a new project.......
:
BEFORE
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AFTER
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1) Do your research before starting. Look at some examples of what you want to work on and compare colors. Know what you want the final product to look like and plan accordingly.
2) Completely disassemble your weapon as far as you are comfortable with. You will need to go farther than a basic field strip to properly clean and prep the surfaces for the duracoat. When I took out the mainspring and hammer strut it looked like a rats nest in there.
3) Prep the surfaces completely. The duracoat must have a somewhat rough surface to bond with. Many recommend sand blasting, but I did fine with some 320 and 400 grit sandpaper. Carb cleaner worked well to blast out any residual oils from all the little nooks and crannies.
4) Invest in a air compressor. Some people try to get by with the canned air, but I've heard way more bad than good using those to spray with. An air compressor is also a great help during prep and cleanup.
5) Keep your distance. The duracoat will run if you get too close (ask me how I know). For me 6 to 8 inches was the sweet spot for spraying at 40 psi.
6) Let the duracoat cure before messing with your gun. I plan on waiting at least a month before going to the range. This stuff needs sufficient time to fully harden.
7) Mask off the weapon internals completely. I got a little too much on some of the pins and grooves and had to break out the file and sandpaper to make everything go back together smoothly.
8) Don't forget the PPG. Glasses, respirator, and latex gloves should be considered mandatory.
So that's about it, now I have to think of a new project.......
: BEFORE
AFTER
