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Old 04-16-2013, 06:47 PM
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Have you considered raising rabbits as part of your long term SHTF survival plans? Rabbits are easy to raise, do not take a lot of room, do not make a lot of noise,, what is there not to like about rabbits?

A couple of weeks ago my wife and daughter got a two Californian white rabbits. The rabbits can not stay in their cage in the kitchen forever; the time has come to build a hutch and move them outside.

Instead of building or buying some simple wire cages, my wife and I decided to build a solid rabbit hutch. This is something that will fit into my chicken coop plans with no change of design or other major alteration. The rabbit hutch my wife and I built this weekend is a total of 8 feet long, divided in half gives each rabbit a space of 3 feet by 4 feet, for a total of 12 square feet.

If I am going to keep rabbits and chickens, I want to make sure they are treated humanly, protected from the elements, and have plenty of room.


Bill of material

2 1/2 inch long outdoor wood screws
3 1/2 inch long outdoor wood screws
10 pressure treated 2x4x8 feet long for 24 inch centers, 11 if you are going with 16 inch centers
3/4 inch galvanized wire staples and/or staple gun
Hammer
Drill with #2 phillips bit
Skilsaw
C-clamps
Tape measure
Pencil
Framing square
Extension cord
Roofing screws
1/8 drill bit for pilot holes
4 pressure treated 2x2x8 feet long boards (for the doors)
Hinges (for door)
Clasp/latch for door, something to keep the predators out.
1/2 square hardware cloth, my wife and I used spool of 25 feet and a spool of 10 feet.

Assembly


I am going to try and describe the process in which my wife and I built our rabbit hutch. I might skip or miss some steps, so you might have to fill in the gaps yourself.

Lets build the floor

My wife and I setup 2 tables, each one being 6 feet long.

Lay 2 of the 2x4x8 boards on the table. Layout each board for cross members on a 24 inch center, or 16 inch center, whichever one you prefer.

I cut the cross members 34 inches. This provides 37 inches between the inside of the uprights.

Use 3 1/2 inch long screws to secure the cross members to the main board.

After all of the cross members have been secured check the floor to make sure it is square. This is done by measuring from opposite corners.

The walls

Before the walls are installed, do you want to wrap the wire across the floor, or do you want to run the wire along the face of the floor? I have built rabbit hutches both ways. I think its a matter of personal preference, and which one provides the best security for your rabbits.

What we are looking for here is security. The main focus of the rabbit hutch is to protect your rabbits from the elements, and from predators. Lets install the wire to what is best for your rabbits, and not necessarily what is easy.

The way my wife and I built the rabbit hutch we wrapped the wire across the top of the floor 24. I do not recommend this for everyone, do what is easiest for you.

Use a c-clamp to clamp the uprights to the floor, use 2 1/2 inch long screws to attach the uprights. I spaced my uprights at the same distance as the floor cross members.

Use framing square to make sure uprights are square with floor.

Once all of the wall uprights have been secured it is time to install the hardware cloth wire.

I built the rear wall one inch higher then the front wall. This adds a slope to the roof for water to drain off.

When ready to attach the legs, lay the hutch on its side, use c-clamps to attach legs, secure legs with 3 1/2 inch long screws, or drill a hole through the legs and the frame and bolt together.

Where I messed up

When I wrapped the hardware cloth across the floor I did wrap the wire far enough. When the floor was installed one side overlapped only about 1/2 inch. I was expecting something like 3/4 inch overlap, but it did not happen.

If I were to build this rabbit hutch again I would not wrap the walls like I did with this hutch. Instead, I would extend the wire down the wall, and make the floor so that the 36 inch wire fit with no gaps.
Not just a rabbit hutch

Some of you might be thinking “this is a lot of work just for a rabbit hutch”, and for the most part you are right. However, this is not “just” a rabbit hutch. This is also a place to keep chicks, keep a sick hen or sick rooster, keep a broody hen,,, whatever needs to be kept secure.

Lets say in a year or two my wife and I decide to sell the rabbits. Now the hutch is free to be used for whatever we want.

If I get a broody hen, I can move the hen and her eggs to the cage and hen with her clutch of eggs will be safe.

Chicken get injured by a predator or in a fight, I have a safe place for that chicken to recover.

Conclusion


Now that the wire, walls and legs have been installed, now what? Next we build doors, install latches, install hinges and add the roof.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:31 PM
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You could have split all the lumber in half, made it from 2" x 2". And from untreated lumber. Since it will have a roof, it doesn't need to be treated lumber, the rabbits will chew on the lumber if they can get to it. 1/2" square cloth for the floor is OK, but chicken wire will work for the sides and top, even for doors if you have frames.
Remember the rabbits don't weight that much.

I made mine from 1/2" x 1" top & sides, 1/2 x1/2 floor. No frame at all. The cage is
3' x 9' (three cages in one) and be hung by supporting wires or set on a frame, what ever you have. (saw horses)

If you can find old layer cages from a commercial chicken house, you can retrofit the cages into nice rabbit cages.
I have had more, but presently I have one doe & one buck.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:54 PM
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Little add on to Two Bits' chicken wire system. YOU MUST USE THE 1" CHICKEN WIRE! The standard 2" will let the burrowin' little bastids right through!

Other advise- A rabbit tractor! Saves lotsa $$$ in feed, and, well, c'mon, mowing the lawn sucks anyways, right? So, 3 plusses, free mowing, free feed AND free fertilizing

Good luck, Kev!

Any ???'s, I'd be glad to answer, or, check out "Sweeper & MissAnnie's suburban homestead" thread in gardening section.
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:50 PM
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Looks really good. I added a swing-up latching door between the 2 rabbit "hotels" for when I decide to breed. With this set-up, there is the same amount of space for each rabbit rather than putting both rabbits in a space designed for 1 rabbit.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:24 PM
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My wife and I started the rabbit hutch last weekend. And as things happen in life we ran out of time and were unable to finish the hutch. This weekend we were going to be a little pressed for time, but I was hoping to get it finished. Besides the hutch my wife and I had a pageant for my daughter in Newton Texas on Saturday, then a birthday party for two of the grandkids on Sunday. Saturday was a no-go, so we only had Sunday to work on the hutch.



Sunday morning my wife and I moved the rabbit hutch from in front of the wood shed to under a large oak tree in the back yard. When my wife asked why we were moving the hutch to work on it, I asked her if she wanted to work in the sun.

The drops from the legs are long enough to make cross members for the floor. When the floor was being built a cross member was placed every 2 feet. This left a space of 2x3 feet that was not supported. As a result there was a lot of slack in the floor. After the extra cross members were installed the floor was reenforced and the extra slack was removed.



Doors - The doors measure 24 inches square. Due to the size of the door 3 hinges were installed and 2 latches. With one latch installed in the middle of the door there was a lot of slack in the bottom. I was worried about a raccoon pulling on the bottom of the door to the point where the door tore apart, that a latch was installed about 4 inches from the top and bottom.

The doors are made out of 2x2 pressure treated wood, 1/2 inch hardware cloth nailed to the inside with 3/4 inch galvanized staples, boards are secured with 2 1/2 inch galvanized wood screws, 2 inch hinges secure the door to the frame of the rabbit hutch.

1/8 pilot holes were drilled before the wood screws were installed. The pilot holes help prevent the wood from splitting.

I might have to install some 1x4 boards at a 45 degree angle to add some support to the doors.

Roof - The roof was pretty simple. All I needed was 3 sheets of tin 8 feet long, then cut all three sheets in half. To be honest, I think tin-snips are a waste of time. Do not try this at home, as I am a professionally trained redneck.

I stacked all three pieces of tin on top of each other, then used a skilsaw to cut the tin in half. If you are going to try this, do so at your own risk. If you cut your fingers off, do not come crying to me.

After cutting the tin I used 1 1/2 inch roofing screws to secure the tin the the rabbit hutch.

It was right at dark when the roof was being installed. To save time I installed the screws every third rib in the tin.

Whats next - The next step is to build, or buy, some kind of hide-box for the rabbits to get inside of. I thought about buying a 5 gallon bucket, cutting a hold in the lid, and putting the bucket in the cage for the rabbits to use. But I do not want the rabbits eating plastic.

The end walls seem to have a lot of slack in the wire. To fix that problem I might buy a pressure treated 2x4, cut a couple of pieces, screw the 2x4 to the frame, then secure the wire with 3/4 inch galvanized staples.

Maybe get a couple of hanging feeders. The rabbits like to sit in their food bowl. To keep things nice and sanitary, I probably need to mount a hanging feeder on a wall of their cage.

One of the rabbits has a 16 ounce water bottle. That will need to be upgraded to a 32 ounce water bottle before the summer heat kicks in.

Why not just use wire cages - I like things that have multiple uses. A wire cage is just that, a wire cage. This rabbit hutch is much more then "just" a hutch.

Lets say my wife and I get some chicks, or get a broody hen. The chicks can be kept in this hutch, or the broody hen can be moved to the hutch to safely sit on her eggs. This protects the hen and her eggs from other chickens and chicken snakes. If a chicken is injured, the other chickens will peck at the wound.

After my wife and I get moved to the homestead I hope to build some more rabbit hutches along one wall of the chicken coop. I might even have two rows of rabbit hutches, one row inside the chicken coop and one row outside the coop, with the two rows back-to-back.

I would like to have at least 1 free rabbit hutch to keep an injured chicken, or a broody hen in. Having a hutch this size gives me a place to keep rabbits and chickens for a variety of purposes.

After my wife and I get moved and get the new chicken coop built I will probably build some basic 3 foot X 3 foot cages.

One of the 3 X 4 cages will be for breeding the does. The larger cage allows for the birthing box, without crowding the doe.
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Last edited by kev; 04-22-2013 at 09:44 PM..
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:03 PM
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Excellent thread! I have been researching raising meat rabbit for about 6 weeks now. I picked up a book (name escapes me at the moment) and have been reading and re-reading it.

One point the author made was to not use wood. He advises an all metal wire, hanging cage system. According to the author, the rabbits tend to chew on it, and the wood will soak up and retain urine. The ammonia in the urine is supposed to have negative effects on the rabbits. Makes sense in my head, but am wondering what experienced rabbit breeders have to say about all of this.

Am really looking forward to getting my set-up going!

Lobo
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:25 PM
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My wife raises rabbits for show purposes and has been doing so for quite some time. the cage bottoms are wire but all the supports are made of wood. Her ex made it well before we met and we have been together for 5 years and it still has that much if not more time left. As for babies the big thing is to make a nest box for the mother and give her some hay to help line the nest she will pull fur as well. If real cold bring them in at night to aid in survival. That is about as far as my knowledge goes. Hope this helps. Also I think silver foxes are one of the meat breeds I forget the other kinds. I can ask if you want.
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:48 PM
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Wood inside a cage doesn't last long on the sides or bottom, should be ok longterm at the top, with only minimal damage. Plywood birth boxes will show wear over time but they last longer than 1" dimensional lumber, I don't think they care to chew on the plywood as much.
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:50 PM
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Nice work Kev. I definitely want to get back into raising rabbits again myself. Had some when we rented a small farmhouse and had access to a barn and small outbuildings. Not a lot of maintenance or care with them, if you have the right setup.

They are a super SHTF prep. Quiet, easy to raise, and in the event of a SHTF situation and you can no longer get rabbit feed, you can still raise them without having to have the commercially bagged feed.

I prefer wild rabbit meat myself, but the tame rabbits are really very much like chicken. All white meat and very lean. We used to make "chicken salad" sometimes when we had people over and they never suspected or knew the difference. Put it in a crockpot and it's just like chicken only better for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lobo Wolf View Post
One point the author made was to not use wood. He advises an all metal wire, hanging cage system. According to the author, the rabbits tend to chew on it, and the wood will soak up and retain urine. The ammonia in the urine is supposed to have negative effects on the rabbits. Makes sense in my head, but am wondering what experienced rabbit breeders have to say about all of this.
I would concur with this. They will naw and chew on the wood - even when covered with wire. They tend to urinate in one spot, so the wood there will become very urine soaked.

I also would be wary of using treated lumber. It produces toxic smoke when burned and so I would think it would be bad for the rabbits to chew on. The young rabbits you raise for meat may not chew the wood long enough (if any) to cause a problem, but it could be detrimental to your breeding stock. Don't know for sure, but I would err on the side of caution and not use treated lumber with all the chemicals it has in it.

An all wire cage is certainly the best, but somewhat difficult unless you have a covered small building. This was my setup previously and I hung the cages from the rafters. It had chicken wire on two side, so it still had good ventilation.

My plan in the future is to build a three sided roofed shelter and hang the cages from it. Or I may incorporate it into the end of my planned chicken coop, using the end of the coop as the back of the rabbbit housing. You can then hang a tarp on the front exposed side during extreme cold weather. If placed properly it allows for protection from most weather, but gives the rabbits good ventilation. You can also hang another set of cages below the first by using your roofing material above the lower cage to deflect the waste from the upper cage (attach roofing to front bottom of top cage and back top of bottom cage). This allows you to raise quite a few rabbits in a relatively small space.

Check your local library for books by author Bob Bennett. He gives some great information on raising rabbits. All you'll need to know. Local Tractor Supply or Farm Coop store may carry his books on raising rabbits.

Lastly, if you're a fisherman, you can raise worms below the cages. The rabbit manure is great for raising worms. If not, it makes great fertilizer for your garden.

Californians are supposed to be good meat rabbits. I raised New Zealand Whites and they did very well. I think some people cross the Cali's and NZ's.

Good luck with your new hobby. You've got me itching to raise rabbits again.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:41 AM
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I used to have dwarf rabbits in a 3'x6' cage that was divided down the middle. I made sure the roof had a 1 foot overhang all around. They do not tolerate sun on a hot day. There was a door on the front of each section. The cage was made of an extrememly heavy gauge wire 1" grid, but the floor was the same strength, but a smaller grid. Thank goodness for the heavy gauge wire, as stray Labradors tried to rip it apart one night, without success. My only complaint was that the 3' depth, from the front to the back, made it hard for me to reach the rabbits.

I made covered boxes for them out of 1x8's...... the boxes lasted 7 years or so. Rabbits need to chew, so always have some planks in their cages for them to chew.... or some branches. Don't let them chew plywood, as it may kill them. Rabbits are incredibly sensitive to toxins.

Try to remember they are an underground animal. In the winter, their underground temp is 45 degrees!!! Not 10, 20, 30 or whatever the above ground temp is. They don't tolerate heat, nor extended cold temps. During winter months, make sure they have protection from the wind, such as installing some solid walls on the outside of the hutches. Make sure they have covered boxes full of hay in which to nest and stay warm. The hutch cannot be in the sun during the summer.

Never, ever keep two males in the same pen. They will gut each other, as their hind toenails are razor sharp. I have seen young males with totally lacerated testicles due to fighting. When breeding, never put a buck in a doe's pen. Always put the doe in with the buck for breeding and then put her back in her pen.

So glad to see you've given them spacious hutches. I placed bricks under the wooden legs of my hutch to keep the legs off the damp ground, therefore, no rotting. Find a way to attach the hutch to something for stability. A couple of large dogs can knock a hutch over. Good luck with your bunnies!
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:25 PM
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Thats very nice Kevin,thank you for sharing it,you have alot of talent my friend
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:09 PM
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I find that 2 by 3 ft. Cages are plenty of room, even for pregnant rabbits. I built my hutch like yours, except mine is separate from my chicken coop. If I had it to do over again, I would follow the plans from the "Storey's guide to raising rabbits." If you like the idea of raising rabbits, then you could frame the bottom of your hutch to capture the poop and add a pound or so of red worms to the poop.

Instant vermiculture.....

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Old 05-05-2013, 02:56 PM
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Update for my rabbit project.

The hideaway boxes are working well, but they are moving their food bowls around and spilling their food.

To fix the food bowl problem I ran a screw through the bowl and into the 2x4 under the bowl. I used a 10 penny nail and hammer to poke a hole in the bottom of the food boil, then secured the bowl with a 2 inch outdoor wood screw.

The doe seems to spend an equal amount of time inside and outside the box, while the buck spends most of his time on top of the box.

The rabbits get on top of the box so they are next to each other, and that is where they spend a good deal of their time .

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Old 05-06-2013, 02:40 PM
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Speaking of food bowls, I only have one and its a heavy crock with an inner lip so the rabbits can't roll the feed out onto the floor or ground. All others are metal auto feeders that are attached to the side of the cage. My New Zeland doe had her litter Saturday night right on schedule as planned. Maybe 10-12 little buggers, too many bodies to count in all that hair.
I was supposed to butcher the last litter Saturday, but with company, the chore got put off. They are just plump and ready for the skillet weighing in at a 5+ lbs a piece. We will can these and store them in the pantry.

I use a wooden nestbox cause I have the scrap to make em. It is put into the cage 1-2 days before their due. A little straw is put in the box, but most is just laid in the cage for the mommy to have something to do. She will pick up every straw and make her nest with it. Then she just waits until her time.
The nest box comes out and is cleaned for storage in 15 days. I made another box with sides that are only 3" and no front so the babies can run in & out without getting lost, a place to huddle & hide when frightened.
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