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Old 08-03-2017, 08:13 PM
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There are check valves, for the main sewer line . Look on line ,or go to you local plumbing supply.
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Old 08-03-2017, 08:31 PM
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Either get a manual one -- or go fancy ?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-PVC-...3904/100144734
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:13 PM
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A friend does septic line work and he plugs lines with car or truck Suspension Air Bag.

The airbag can be put in and air will inflate it till it seals the line.

And he found there cheap when he gets them from a auto wreaking yard
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:19 PM
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Me thinks we're being played ?

https://www.survivalistboards.com/sea...rchid=39947673

One question then a 3 year absence ?
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:52 PM
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I am a retired sewer and water operator. I have seen hundreds of sewer backups. Most were caused by high flows during storms due to illegal connections to the sanitary sewers. People often connect their sump and roof drains to the sewer. They also flush things they shouldn't or even open manhole covers to get rid of things. We have found mail boxes, bags of puppies, 2x4s, car parts, and just about any thing that could fit through a manhole cover blocking sewers.We even had one plugged by a 4' long 8" diameter dildo.
A plugged sewer can develop considerable pressure so the only sure way to prevent backups is a gate valve on the line to the house. On sewers with bolt down covers I have seen the pressure lift the manhole top section of a manhole out of the ground.

Last edited by Jim in Illinois; 08-03-2017 at 11:26 PM..
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:16 PM
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a good question is a good question

bob
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Old 08-04-2017, 06:50 AM
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Jim in Ill. - That's a little discouraging! I've wondered about head pressure, but hoped it wouldn't get too bad. I worked in construction for many years so I have a couple of test plugs I figured I could use if needed. But, lifting the assembly out of the ground!!! Yikes. A little friction from a test plug isn't going to hold that back.

Luckily, it is relatively flat around here, and even though I am at a "lowish" spot in my neighborhood, the highest spot is probably only a few feet above me.

I hate gate valves that don't get used frequently, due to their habit of seizing up. I am thinking about a big PVC ball valve?

Back to the drawing board.
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birddog15 View Post
Jim in Ill. - That's a little discouraging! I've wondered about head pressure, but hoped it wouldn't get too bad. I worked in construction for many years so I have a couple of test plugs I figured I could use if needed. But, lifting the assembly out of the ground!!! Yikes. A little friction from a test plug isn't going to hold that back.


I hate gate valves that don't get used frequently, due to their habit of seizing up. I am thinking about a big PVC ball valve?

Back to the drawing board.
I have seen test plugs blow out a few times but they usually work. Gate valves need to be exercised or they will seize, their were about 7000 in the system I was in we opened and closed them twice a year and recorded the turns each way. Ball valves will work but they can jam to, we had them in a lot of lift stations we exercised those monthly. Anything in sewerage needs a lot of service or the solids in the sewerage will jam it.
For a home you will have a 4 or 6 inch service connection exercising those is not too hard. We had valves as large as 48" those can be quite a workout.

Last edited by Jim in Illinois; 08-04-2017 at 10:43 PM..
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Illinois View Post
Gate valves need to be exercised or the will seize
Every 6 months or so --

Close & open valves under your sinks - change smoke detector batteries - change your oil - get back lent out tools - reverse blow out your dryer vents - twist the sewer back-up valve --
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Old 08-04-2017, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Illinois View Post
I have seen test plugs blow out a few times but they usually work. Gate valves need to be exercised or the will seize, their were about 7000 in the system I was in we opened and closed them twice a year and recorded the turns each way. Ball valves will work but they can jam to, we had them in a lot of lift stations we exercised those monthly. Anything in sewerage needs a lot of service or the solids in the sewerage will jam it.
For a home you will have a 4 or 6 inch service connection exercising those is not too hard. We had valves as large as 48" those can be quite a workout.
Jim.

thanks for mentioning exercising the Gate Valves. I forgot to mention that in my post. A check valve on these gravity systems is like playing Russian roulette with an automatic in my opinion. Heck, I dont even call them to be used in those rare instances of encapsulated storm runoff control backup, much less sanitary sewers.

I never specified Ball Valves in any of my designs as I thought these were primarily used for small diameter private residential water. And thinking about it now, I cant remember why I never called them out. The industry standard down here is almost always a gate valve.

PS... I always recommend to homeowners (even though I only do commercial and larger designs), to always use a 6" (not 4") sewer discharge from their house. Not because of heavy flow, but because someone will always put stuff in the toilets that dont belong there, clogging the line.
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Old 08-04-2017, 08:52 AM
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6" = so the turds dont tumble
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Old 08-04-2017, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Idyllwoods View Post
I plan on bugging-in and my concern is the sewer might backup into our house. Does anyone know of a way to block the main sewer line to prevent any backup? Or, is there any info to show this would not be necessary? Thanks all!

Tampons.
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Old 08-04-2017, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by manimalist View Post
Tampons.
Ever sweat a joint where there was a way to pull the string later

Always kept a few in the pluming box
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:12 PM
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Yup, mine is a 4 inch pipe. Old cast iron in the house, not sure what is out in the yard. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us Jim!
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:49 AM
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Sewer systems come in a wide varieties. Plumbers can do strange things to make it work.

One simple, but potentially VERY MESSY, but cheap solution I have on standby is a rubber plug that will fit into my 4 inch main drain line and a screw fitting to an extended cleanout.

In the event of a major backup, like during area flooding, etc... I can open my cleanout, insert the rubber plug downstream to isolate me from the outside system and attach the extention pipe to make it easier for me to redirect my own waste flow to an alternate disposal system (worm bed composting).

While this is only a short term fix, it saved my wife from a repeat of the sewer backups we had during previous floods coming into the bathtub... We also have a portable toilet bucket system for SHTF situations so we minimize our waste outflow when needed.

You have to look at how your system is set up and find solutions that might work.
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Old 07-15-2019, 08:09 AM
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I have a check valve on my "dosing tank", which is downstream of the septic tank. The septic fills, solids to the bottom, liquids to the dosing tank. When the pump in the dosing tank turns on, via a float switch, it pumps the liquid to the drain field, which is several feet higher than the house (which is why I had to have the dosing tank.

I would think you would need a check valve, but the size of pump you would need to push you stuff downrange verses my pump (one house worth of liquid) might make the hole thing undoable. If you would need a very large diesel engine to force your stuff out (and keep other's stuff from coming in, you might5 as well build your own utility.

WW

shoot straight - stay safe
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Old 07-15-2019, 08:47 AM
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https://www.supplyhouse.com/Red-Flag...a2a22e7691f679

Price is subject to your area, go find one at the hardware store near you.


Add one of these between 2 flanges will work also.....(see picture)
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Old 07-19-2019, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleatis View Post
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Red-Flag...a2a22e7691f679

Price is subject to your area, go find one at the hardware store near you.


Add one of these between 2 flanges will work also.....(see picture)
I think a butterfly valve like you pictured would be a constant problem on a sewer line. I think it would plug up every time someone used more than a few squares of toilet paper.

A gate or ball valve will allow the pipe to mostly be open with maybe a bit of obstruction on the edge of the pipe. A butterfly valve will always have the center of the pipe blocked and will catch all sorts of debris.
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Old 07-24-2019, 09:47 PM
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In my neighborhood with old houses most approaching 100 years old, a sewer system just as old and a city gov't not too efficient we get plenty of back ups. In fact the system was designed that way, to back up into the basements when the system couldn't handle heavy rains. At least that's the way it has been explained to me. When the city demolishes derelict and abandoned houses, they plug the drain with cement. That's a pretty permanent way to do it but in a more or less permanent SHTF scenario it beats a basement full of...stuff. I've always assumed I would dig an outhouse or build a septic system if necessary, assuming the collapse of local municipalities and national authorities etc.
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Old 07-29-2019, 08:39 PM
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These posts make me glad I'm on a septic tank.
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