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Old 12-03-2017, 01:40 PM
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Default Winter Prep on Engines- What do you do?



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My wife took her motorcycle down and filled the tank. I guess she is done with riding for the year since she also stacked the bike clothing for storage. I will first treat the gas with stabilizer and run the bike for a minute or so hopefully that treats the system better. Then I will remove the battery from the bike and bring it into the basement and hook it up to a battery tender.

I do the same with the lawn mower, weed whacker, chainsaw, etc. We also treat the pick-up truck gas since we don't really use that vehicle much in the winter but I don't do anything with the battery. I treat the tractor (a diesel) with fuel treatment and also treat the cans of diesel with the same.

Anything I'm missing here?
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:55 PM
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Non-ethanol gas? Asking because didn’t see that stated. Would not store equipment with ethanol gasoline. Go heavy with the Sta-Bil.
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:19 PM
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Non-ethanol gas? Asking because didnít see that stated. Would not store equipment with ethanol gasoline. Go heavy with the Sta-Bil.
I tend to go heavy on that anyway. I'm actually not sure what we get that passes for gas around here (percentage wise) but I do know we have ethanol in our gas.
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:38 PM
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You could drain the bowls for the carburetors. Helps alleviate any water and/or crud in them

I usually pull the bowls and wipe them clean. It's just about as easy

I'm not sold on Stabil, I use Seafoam


I don't really have to worry about freezing temps down here where I live but I'm still very proactive and run Heet through my tanks in the vehicles before winter sets in
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:29 PM
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I would turn the pet-cock off on that bike.
And run it till it runs outta gas....
That way, it clears the fuel lines as well as the carb....
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Old 12-03-2017, 06:16 PM
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(1) turn off the fuel petcock and run the engine until the carb. bowl is dry. Evaporating fuel leaves varnish in the carburetor and gums evernthing up.
(2) remove the spark plugs and put about a teaspoon full of engine oil in each cylinder. Crank the engine to coat everythign above the cylinder gets a coat of oil. Replace the spark plugs. I've had pistons seize in storage before and don't want that to happen again.
(3) take the battery inside or put it on a trickle charger for the winter. In my area, winter will freeze and ruin batteries.

I know I'm in the minority here but I don't think fuel stabilizers do anything useful.
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Old 12-03-2017, 06:54 PM
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Been riding for decades and have tried or seen people try about everything to prep their bikes for a five or six month period where they won't be used including what service members do to bikes before deploying for up to a year. About half the time the bikes won't run right when the warm weather rolls around and they have to start taking the fuel systems apart which isn't fun especially if you have to pull the carbs. About ten years ago decided to try changing the oil, filter and fluids when I was through riding but go out and start the bikes once a week and let them get up to operating temp, maybe even riding them up an down the street if the weather isn't too cold. So far it's worked and I haven't had to mess with the fuel systems. It's no fun but a lot better than having to pull and clean the carbs which on my bikes is a complete PITA.
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Old 12-03-2017, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavedweller View Post
Non-ethanol gas? Asking because didnít see that stated. Would not store equipment with ethanol gasoline. Go heavy with the Sta-Bil.
Would be interesting to know the years of the vehicles. Newer and I worry less about it. My dad runs all small engines on non-ethanol stuff though.

As for the OP, we typically run the engines dry of gas on small engines, fill and stabilize on vehicles. Should pull and store batteries inside but we just disconnect and leave in place.
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Old 12-03-2017, 07:31 PM
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sea-foam all air cooled engines and lay em up for the winter watercooled gets a flush and refill on the cooling systems. anything with a battery /electric start gets a maintainer plugged in, and all posts get cleaned and lubricated .i only use non ethanol fuels,about 1/2 my business comes from damage in carburetors and fuel injection systems from those vehicles getting parked for the winter with 1/2 a tank or less of non treated fuels. I went to sea-foam instead of stabil, easier on iridium spark plugs

usually, on yard equpt/tractor i do the oil change /filter/air filter as well. saves from the spring rush maddness.

I run non ethanol in everything, if caught out somewhere and i have to use, i add a can of sea foam to the full tank. have had to many FI bikes, come thru that have set the winter with low octane ethanol fuels, that cut the injector plates at first light off after 4 months. injectors don't like water going thru them. cuts the pattern. if you pull the injector on a vehicle run on normally the ;lowest octane rating , after its set for a couple of months and refired, and compare it to a new injector, you can see the difference in the spray pattern. you can tell the difference on the plug burn as well/.
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:56 PM
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I spent a few years running a Honda shop in Boston in the '70s. Storage rules:

1. Fill a steel tank full. Add Stabil. Drain a plastic or fiberglass tank dry. Not many fiberglass tanks anymore, but it you have one, ethanol rots the resin.

2. Change the oil. Worn-out oil is acidic, and what it can do to plain bearing inserts has to be seen to be believed.

3. If you drain carb bowls, spray them with WD-40, or nowadays CorrosionX or some such. A dry float bowl will develop "the white death" - i.e. corrosion, which is worse than fuel residue. THAT you can remove with solvents. I never recommended draining - just use stabilized fuel.

4. Pull the battery and keep inside, warm and charged. WE sold a skid-full of 12N12A batteries every spring anyway. Big money-maker.

5. Make sure the chain is well lubed, if your bike had one.

6. Lube up the cables. We sold a special tool that did this from a spray can straw.

7. Wax steel rims, spokes, and exhaust pipes, especially where they've become blued with heat.

8. Keep the bike DRY. Tarp it, garage it, whatever. Cold won't hurt it, but cold followed by warm and moist weather will make the metal "sweat". Rust follows. This was a big problem in coastal New England. Stopping air FLOW around the bike helps a lot.
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:27 AM
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For a truck diesel, synthetic oil. new fuel filter, check anti-freeze, stock up on fuel additive, look for No. 1 diesel. Plug in when the overnight temperatures are below about 10 degrees F. Check batteries.
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:53 AM
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Our small engine seasonal equipment gets oils changed,air filters inspected,fuel pumped out of tanks,dose of sta-bil then ran dry.lawn mower gets blade sharpened.chainsaws get chains sharpened & oiled.I do not prepare any 50-1 for the saws as it is a pita to get rid of.truck gets large dose of stabilizer and batteries stay in with a tender on it plugged in all year.Gennie gets exercised monthly I only put a small amount of stabilized fuel in it,I would fill it up if we have a long power outage.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:21 PM
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When I was on Active Duty I completed 17 deployments. I have tried everything in this thread, and I am not sure if any of it honestly worked.

Coming back stateside to a vehicle that refuses to start is a huge pain though.
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