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Old 05-30-2018, 07:36 PM
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You rock Ted! I am a jeep lover too. I thought I was doing something when I successfully installed a 3.5" lift on my TJ. I used to do a lot more when I was a kid. Kind of helped to have dad around back then for when I screw things up he could fix it right. He was an aircraft mechanic in the Airforce (WW2 and Korea) then was a Ford mechanic the rest of his days. I am not as daring as I used to be tearing something apart now.
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Old 05-30-2018, 07:42 PM
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The 'cogged wheel' is your parking gear so to speak, the aluminum piece bolted to that is the transmission governor
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Old 05-31-2018, 05:21 PM
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tedlovesjeeps71,
Correct in that the green trans is the 727. It came out of a running '79 CJ5. However, it was behind a very strong MOPAR 360 not an AMC 360. The entire running gear is from a 80s era Dodge truck. The axles are a Dodge truck Dana 44, and Chrysler 9.25. the T-case it used was the Dana 20.

The CJ7 I'm rebuilding had a 258 with a TF999, and a Dana 300. The only thing I want to use here is the adapter and the Dana 300. Is that possible?

I'm would love to go with a Chevy 350 swap and a 700R4. That would give me overdrive and there is way more aftermarket support for small block Chevy to Jeep swaps... Just trying see if I can use what I have on hand to keep costs down.
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Old 05-31-2018, 05:38 PM
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Nice project, I will be following.
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Old 05-31-2018, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyusmaximus View Post
tedlovesjeeps71,
Correct in that the green trans is the 727. It came out of a running '79 CJ5. However, it was behind a very strong MOPAR 360 not an AMC 360. The entire running gear is from a 80s era Dodge truck. The axles are a Dodge truck Dana 44, and Chrysler 9.25. the T-case it used was the Dana 20.

The CJ7 I'm rebuilding had a 258 with a TF999, and a Dana 300. The only thing I want to use here is the adapter and the Dana 300. Is that possible?

I'm would love to go with a Chevy 350 swap and a 700R4. That would give me overdrive and there is way more aftermarket support for small block Chevy to Jeep swaps... Just trying see if I can use what I have on hand to keep costs down.


So assuming you're like the rest of us and on a tight budget, there are some hurdles.
The dodge 360 and it's 727 mate up but the tail end and likely the output shaft/spline count are different from a Dana 300. An AMC 727 would bolt right up to a Dana 300 but wouldn't match the dodge bell housing pattern.
There isn't a lot of adapter support for dodge to jeep stuff but it may be out there. Try calling Novak or Advance Adapters or even JB conversions. They may have (or will make) what you need. But unfortunately there is no poor man's fix for what you're trying to stick together that I know of. And at the end of the day you'll still only have a driver that is without overdrive. As gas prices climb it may be wise to search for a way to swap a 700r or GL80 in but it would be easier and less expensive to do it behind a Chevy motor.


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Old 08-29-2018, 10:10 PM
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My wife is a teacher's aid. No school in the summer, so we're down a paycheck. That coupled with my not-so-great VA disability income means no parts buying over the summer. Also, I don't get along with 90 degree weather, and have been doing some pretty intense physical therapy on my bad shoulder. MRI next week, so I'll get to see what kind of damage is in there now. Been years since the last operation. Anyway... after taking the summer off working on the Jeep, I'm back at it... sort of.

Now for a guy still in the bare frame stage, this is gonna sound strange, but my first big spend was for a new back bumper. When I was mocking up the new springs, I found the Rubicon Express YJ springs to be a bit longer. The rear shackles ended up being angled too far back, and I was gonna have to move the rear shackle mount back a couple inches or there wouldn't be enough room for movement once there was weight on it. After deliberating on weather to build or buy, I found one online that looked very strong, and decided to go for it, knowing I'd probably have to modify how it attached to the frame. I ordered the LOD Expedition series bumper and tire carrier, and the optional frame tie ins.




Now I had to figure out a way to mount the bumper so that it is strong enough that I can move the rear shackle back and have it resting on the bumper, as a frame extension. The bumpers optional frame tie ins, are only for the outside of the frame. There are only two. They do not sandwich the frame. for the bolts on the inside of the frame, you get only backing plates.



First off, I can't imagine anyone NOT getting the frame tie ins. Too many videos out there of people trying to get unstuck, and ripping the rear bumper off a vehicle. Second, I need this strong enough to be a frame extension, as the shackle will be moved back one hole. I remembered taking some brackets off my old Super Duty when I first got it years ago. (it had a 5th wheel hitch I didn't need) I dug into my scrap pile and started making the pieces to a second pair of frame tie ins, using these, and the backing plates LOD sent. These will go on the inside, and sandwich the frame. I'll have to get longer bolts. LOD also sent grade 5 bolts. I'll get grade 8.



There is a tab on the bottom of the bumper that had a hole that corresponds with the rear shackle mount hole. (that will now be the front shackle mount hole) This will work out perfectly, but will still need further reinforcement under it. I'll cut the original rear bumper, install a sleeve, (kinda like a trailer hitch in a reciever) and it will go inside the frame.The bolts will go through the frame tie ins, the frame, and the sleeve, that will be welded to the rear of the LOD bumper under the tab, so it will support the rear shackle mount.



Should be plenty strong.

Sucky thing is now that we're back to a two income family... the timing chain broke in my daily driver (2003 Marauder) pretty sure I bent a bunch of valves too. I'm looking at a big repair bill. probably a total rebuild. I have to do the things that don't require a lot of cash outlay. I can do the frame painting and the rest of the bumper mounting without much additional cost in the mean time. I'll be able to get the springs mounted, flip her back over, and get the axles back under her without a lot of cost. Maybe I can start working on the tub in my no money spare time till after I get the car up and running again.
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Old 08-29-2018, 10:24 PM
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Default DIY Bug Out Vehicle build

What's the swing out look like... This?

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Old 08-29-2018, 10:35 PM
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https://lodoffroad.com/products/jeep...rrier-515.html

Didn't buy the can holders and rack yet. I can get those when she's done.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:45 PM
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Crap... If it isn't one thing, it's another. My daily driver (2003 Mercury Marauder) is down. Timing chain jumped, and she bent some valves. 160K miles on her. Probably should have replaced it as a preventive measure, but she was running fine... So that put a $4,000 dent in the Jeep budget.

Anyway, I have been able to spend a little time working out the kinks in the rear bumper install, and how far back to move the rear spring shackle eyes. Pretty sure I won't have to flip them around like I had them in the previous post. Moving them one hole back should do the trick. I test fitted the springs, and the angle of the shackles look like they should be OK. I guess I'll find out when she's on the ground.

Gave it the first coat of desert sand, so you an get the idea of the "Army Jeep" look she'll have.



Here you see the frame tie in brackets that I got (paid extra) with the bumper. Still think it's cheesy they only sent two, so you can't sandwich the frame.



Here you see the finished frame tie ins I did for the inside. NOW I can sandwich the frame. I also replace the grade 5 hardware they sent, with grade 8. Notice how now that I moved the shackle eye back, they sit on top of the original rear crossmember. This leaves them up a bit, and not directly sitting on the frame, so I'll have to insert a piece of steel to fill the gap right under the eye to keep it from flexing under load. Kinda screwed up on those home made tie ins. My side supports were so close I didn't leave enough room for a socket. Had to hold the nut with an open end wrench, and tighten the bolt from the other side. Very hard to get to.



Overall, I think it should be strong enough to do the job...

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Old 09-15-2018, 02:42 PM
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Put the front springs on today. I was gonna paint the front of the frame, but got overheated. maybe later in the evening or tomorrow. A little concerned about the angle of the shackles. They are over the 90* mark with no weight on them at all. The Rubicon express YJ SOA springs are suppose to ride nice, but are a bit longer. I can't move either of the shackle mounts without a lot of custom fab work.






The Dave's Customs Unlimited kit mounts the rear right in front of the body mount, so there's no moving it back. Wouldn't want to go back anyway. The front uses factory holes, so moving it forward would mean paying somebody to cut and weld on what I paid them to engineer. I already had to space them out for the Dodge truck axles. I'm thinking that there should be enough room for the spring to compress without having it bang on the frame. I'll have to make my own bump stops anyway, as the factory ones won't match up with the Dodge Dana 44.




Side note: I had ordered two new sets of greasable shackles and now somehow I don't have enough bolts to mount both the front and rear springs. They give you the greasable bolts for the shackles, but regular bolts for the pivot end of the springs. Maybe I'm being OCD, but I want greasable bolts everywhere there is a bushing... so I'm ordering another kit.
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Old 09-15-2018, 06:44 PM
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Obviously the proof is in the pudding (weight on vehicle etc) but 90* @ unloaded is usually a normal starting point.
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
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Obviously the proof is in the pudding (weight on vehicle etc) but 90* @ unloaded is usually a normal starting point.
Hope so. Trying to plan and build at the same time...
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:07 PM
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Did a bit of wire brushing and painting on the frame today. Managed to finish the front half back to the skid plate. Shoulders on fire...

Here's what I started with...


Had to make a trip to the hardware store for a new brush after a while...


Now half of the frame is black.


I couldn't find POR 15 in any of the stores around here, but I found this stuff. The question is, will Chassis Saver save my chassis? Time will tell.


Gotta take the skid plate off to progress rearward. That, is for another day... I need a shower, nap, the wife has plans for dinner with friends, and I have to get back to the VFW to do a Treasure Hunt drawing.
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Old 10-08-2018, 05:41 PM
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Had to get the skidplate off to finish the frame scraping and painting. Guess what? Yup, broke another 38 year old bolt. Is there anything more infuriating than drilling out damn broken bolts? Can I get an Amen?



However, I finally got the rest of the frame Chassis Saver black. (well, at least the bottom and sides) I'll let her dry for a few days, then hit her with the rattle can desert sand. Soon after, I'll flip her over, get on her wheels, and do the top of the frame.

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Old 10-08-2018, 07:07 PM
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Looking good.
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Old 10-18-2018, 06:10 PM
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First coat of desert sand in on the frame...

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Old 10-21-2018, 10:12 PM
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Got the springs painted, and on, hopefully for the last time. I'm pretty sure they won't be coming off any more so I went ahead, and did a final red Locktite, and proper torque on them. PLEASE GOD... don't make me have to take them off again. The hope is to move on from here. I'll give her a few days for the paint to cure up, then I'll flip her over and test fit the axles to see if I should have waited on the Locktite or not... lol. They'll come off later for a full rebuild, all new seals, and bearings, and what not. Air lockers if I can swing it.

Motor mounts are ordered, and on the way for the Mopar 360. I'll need to get some brake and fuel line stuff. This should be interesting. Never bent hard line before. There's shock mounts, steering box, and a few other things to get taken care of before I start in on the tub. Fun winter ahead...

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Old 10-21-2018, 10:19 PM
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This guy:

https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ring-tool.html

And these:

https://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bend...liers-kit.html

Make brake and fuel lines much less a pain.

And I hope you slathered some anti-seize on the suspension stuff.
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Old 10-21-2018, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedlovesjeeps71 View Post
This guy:

https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ring-tool.html

And these:

https://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bend...liers-kit.html

Make brake and fuel lines much less a pain.

And I hope you slathered some anti-seize on the suspension stuff.
I didn't. I was worried about them coming loose with bouncing around on the trails, but I do have anti-seize, and I like your idea better given the environment it will be in. I think I'll re-do the bolts when I get time.
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Old 10-21-2018, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyusmaximus View Post
I didn't. I was worried about them coming loose with bouncing around on the trails, but I do have anti-seize, and I like your idea better given the environment it will be in. I think I'll re-do the bolts when I get time.


If your bolts pass through metal sleeves in the spring/shackle, coat them liberally with antiseize.
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