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Old 03-11-2010, 10:59 PM
Beatupoldcop Beatupoldcop is offline
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If you guys know: Is there a kit or adaphter I can use for turning my Sun (Slueth One) oscillisocope into a graphing = wave scope for reading sensor outputs and fuel pump 'waves'.
(Trying to avoid buying a Snappy MT2400)
TIA
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Old 03-28-2010, 03:26 PM
jgr1974 jgr1974 is offline
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Hello, new here, seen your post. I am having some trouble with my 86 for ranger 2.9-can you help?
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Old 03-28-2010, 03:26 PM
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need help with ford ranger 2.9 can you help?
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Old 03-29-2010, 01:21 AM
Loggo557 Loggo557 is offline
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I was just wondering what a standard price for a repair would be, my 93 ford ranger manual 4wd 3.0 L just had the transmission, slave cylinder and clutch go out. I took it to a local shop and the quoted price they gave me was $2370 to replace all three. I'm just trying to make sure that I'm not about to get ripped off. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:16 AM
Beatupoldcop Beatupoldcop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loggo557 View Post
I was just wondering what a standard price for a repair would be, my 93 ford ranger manual 4wd 3.0 L just had the transmission, slave cylinder and clutch go out. I took it to a local shop and the quoted price they gave me was $2370 to replace all three. I'm just trying to make sure that I'm not about to get ripped off. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out.
Before I would spend that kind of money, I'd sign up with Alldata, for about $26 you get a complete manual with Parts and Labor breakdown for that particular vehicle.

After reading it, you may see that could be a bargain - especially the work and often - special tools required to do the job.

YMMV
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Old 04-02-2010, 08:41 PM
91g-dub 91g-dub is offline
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Default I could use some help

1980 Jeep J10 258 6cyl. 4 speed with Holley 2 barrel carb. Sat for who knows how many years before I "resuced" it from a junkyard. I've gone through all the systems replacing and upgrading as I did.
I have a problem that I can't figure out. I did a complete tune-up; plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor. Installed new fuel pump and filter and replaced the rubber fuel lines. Re-built the carb.
Truck starts and idles fine. While sitting idling I can run it up to 4K RPM and it sounds fine. When I drove it for the 1st time it bucked, spit and generally ran like crap as it gets to around 2K RPM. I figured it had old gas in it. Filled tank and put in a bottle of Yellow Heet. Ran a little better but still hesitates when I put the power down.
Any ideas on what this might be and how to fix it?
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:39 PM
Beatupoldcop Beatupoldcop is offline
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Default What I would do:

I would put in a fuel tap, i.e. a " t" fitting with one outlet for a pressure gauge, then get the vehicle running via pouring a little gas/either down the carb. see what the fuel pressure is; should be a minimum of about 6 - 7 pounds - again, at minimum.

Stop engine then:
... do a volume test, pull the fuel pressure gauge out of the 't' fitting, and put in a line which goes to a container. Once your sure there are no leaks, start the engine and run for a minimum of 30 seconds and see what volume of gas came out. Should be no less than a pint if ran for 30 seconds.
From there transfer this fuel into a glass container to see what it looks like ... prolly full of crud.

Remember that gas is expensive and likes to catch fire at the worst possible time, so have a hose ready.
Read instructions before doing, Your mileage may vary. Follow all safety precautions.

And of course:
Void where prohibited or taxed.

If that don't help, then an ohm test on the coil would follow.
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:04 PM
Shane110 Shane110 is offline
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I have a 1995 Ford F150 5.0 liter. The speedometer jumps around like crazy. My only guess would be the speedo cable? Maybe the speed sensor?
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:45 PM
91g-dub 91g-dub is offline
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Default Re: What I would do:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beatupoldcop View Post
I would put in a fuel tap, i.e. a " t" fitting with one outlet for a pressure gauge, then get the vehicle running via pouring a little gas/either down the carb. see what the fuel pressure is; should be a minimum of about 6 - 7 pounds - again, at minimum.

Stop engine then:
... do a volume test, pull the fuel pressure gauge out of the 't' fitting, and put in a line which goes to a container. Once your sure there are no leaks, start the engine and run for a minimum of 30 seconds and see what volume of gas came out. Should be no less than a pint if ran for 30 seconds.
From there transfer this fuel into a glass container to see what it looks like ... prolly full of crud.

Remember that gas is expensive and likes to catch fire at the worst possible time, so have a hose ready.
Read instructions before doing, Your mileage may vary. Follow all safety precautions.

And of course:
Void where prohibited or taxed.

If that don't help, then an ohm test on the coil would follow.
1 thing I forgot to mention was that I had a fuel pressure regulator between the fuel filter and carb. (brand new and installed by me).

I removed the fuel filter; it looked OK but changed it and installed a fuel line directly to the carb without the fuel pressure regulator. Also tightened up the bolts on the intake manifold; one was a full turn loose and another was 1/2 turn loose.

Runs like a champ now! Carb needs to be tweaked a little but much better than before.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 04-23-2010, 02:09 AM
NKYGrunt NKYGrunt is offline
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Default Re: Free Auto Repair Advise or Answers

My wife has an 01 Kia Optima LX with 2.4 4 cylinder A/T. It just rolled over 100k and of course everything started going wrong with it. Now I have 2 questions for you guys. 1. The car will be doing fine going down the interstate then the next thing you know it downshifts itself down to 3rd gear and the check engine light pops on and then when you get off the interstate it just stays in 3rd gear. Autozone says its the speed sensor but the car has 2 is there anyway to determine which one it might be without having to pay for a diagnostic test?

Then the 2nd question is I have had to replace the alternator in this car 3 times in the past year with brand new alternators but luckily I have a lifetime warranty that has covered this. Is there anything that could cause burning so many up?

Thank you guys for all your help
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:46 AM
Beatupoldcop Beatupoldcop is offline
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Exclamation Re: Free Auto Repair Advise or Answers

Not a transmission guy but I'll take a shot at the second question.

Sounds like your alternator is being worked to death.

So let's start with the basics. Load test the battery - can be done for free at Auto Zone and all national chains. If it passes, great, but if it's marginal or wan't properly cured, then get an Optima. Try to get the one with both top and side mount terminals.

Always use a battery charger should the battery go dead. Using the car's alternator to charge it back up - strains the system.

Get yourself a decent Digital Volt - Ohm meter. Must have at least 10K "high impedance" look for a Blue point (Snap On Brand) or Fluke. on ebay, or Radio Shack has a decent one at about $70.
Start doing voltage drop tests at every connection. All kinds of sites on the 'web and you tube showing you how.
If money is too tight for buying a decent meter, then break out the elbow grease and sockets.
1. Clean the battery Terminals, check for corrosion where the cable instulation goes into the metal clamp.
2. Unbolt the Negative terminal, then start with the positive Battery cable Usually has two heavy gage wires, one to the Starter, & One to the Power Distribution Box. Make sure the connections are clean and tight. Don't trust your eyes, but disassemble and clean then down to 'bright' metal.

Remember, while the Neg battery cable is off, and separated from the battery, you won't get the sparks and fireworks should you accidentaly ground sumpn's.

Using a bit of steel wool, clean the area on the block where the Neg cable attaches. If you are in a high rust potential area, then get some 'conductive grease' from the hardware store. It's the stuff they use when assembling aluminum wires, this is the complete opposite of "Dielectric grease', but they both have the same intent: Keeping water and Oxygen out of the connection thus forming films that hinder the passage of electrons.
When reassembling the connection at the block, put the amount equal to two match heads on the bolt's threads. After you have cleaned them off course. Make sure you use a lock washer.

Now look for the straps that run from body to frame, or directly to the Battery's Neg terminal.
Again, you want everything clean and tight. Be careful as there is a lot of aluminum used in car these days, that stuff will strip out faster than snot ;^)

On certain GM products, look for a braided metal strap that runs from the back of the engine block to the firewall. If it's discolored in anyway, then the forgoing suggestions are mandatory.
For the record: I own no stock in any products I mentioned/will mention:
Hit everything with a blast of "PB Blaster" before beginning work or disassembly.
Don't buy it from Wal-Mart, it's the same price every where.
Use a product called "Liquid Tape" for any bare spots on your wiring if YOU CANNOT cover it with those shrink tubes. (They look like a straw, you slide a couple of inches of it over the bare spot - apply heat till it shrinks and make a tight fit.
Pretend you're a cowboy looking for stray cows but their really electrons which have met resistance, hence go looking for another path back to the Negative battery Post.
They will do a bunch of harm - if they don't get back the WAY the vehicle's designers and engineers intended.
If you have a CB radio installed or any serious add on after market stuff?
Do what the Audiophiles do:
Double up on the grounding system. They call it the Holy Three: Battery to Starter Motor: Nice big fat cable; Don't be fooled by thick insulation, talk to your parts counter guy. Just like a shotgun - lower number means more effect.
Next: Frame to Battery - again, get as big as you can for that.
Followed by: Body to battery. Keep in mind "Your car's entire body is an extension of the Battery's Negative post. Remember the battery with the top and side mounting posts I mentioned? Run these extra cables to the unused top or side post.
A couple of Warnings - Some GM products have modules which will go to sleep permanently requiring $ hundreds of dollars in replacement cost + a trip to the dealer for re flash of the car's computer, if they lose power .
Know your car.
Second:
When you are around batteries, wear approved safety goggles, when SHTF, you want your eyes to be protected. Have a hose nearby for flushing - just because S-H's.

You will need a decent Voltage meter to test for leaking AC voltage from the Alternator, this happens when the Diodes go bad.

IN MY Experience: Cars that eat up alternators will blow a head gasket 10x's faster than 'normal' cars. I suspect this is due to corrosion and electrolysis. So change your anti-freeze - on this car at every 20k miles. Check for a goo that looks like peanut butter with rust in it in the expansion tank. This is the by- product of the additives in the anti-freeze doing their job.

Just because the Anti-freeze is pretty bright green doesn't mean it fit for use.
That can be done for less than two movie tickets and a bucket of popcorn and sodas.
And No the stuff isn't end of the world toxic, in fact it's biodegradable. Careful using it, there's reports that dogs like to drink it and it is toxic.
HTH
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:27 PM
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Default Re: Free Auto Repair Advise or Answers

Shane,

Here is a TSB from Ford that may deal with your speedometer issue. If you have more questions, let me know. It's been a day or two since I've worked on one of these, but I believe they don't have a speedometer cable. Most likely you will need a new PSOM, but you may check, or have someone check the issues mentioned in the TSB before you go that far.

If you get to the point you think it is the PSOM, PM me and I might know a place that can repair them.

Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module- Pointer Waver-Service Tip
Article Number 96-21-11

LIGHT TRUCK:
1992-96 AEROSTAR, BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES

ISSUE:
The speedometer needle may waver and/or a light surge may occur on some vehicles when speed control is used at highway speeds between 80-113 km/h (50-70 mph). This may be due to slight dents/chips in either the exciter ring or the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and air gaps between the VSS and the exciter ring.

ACTION:
Replace the Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM) if required. New PSOM's come with increased immunity to system variability. Refer to the following Diagnostic Procedure for details.


DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

BRONCO/F-SERIES - Perform normal PSOM diagnostics per Pinpoint Tests "H" and "J" of the 1996 F-Series/ Bronco Body/Chassis Service Manual, Pages 13-01-30 through 13-01-32 and Pinpoint "B" of the 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Page 10-03-11.

ECONOLINE - Perform normal PSOM diagnostics per Pinpoint Tests "H" and "J" of the 1996 Econoline Body/Chassis Service Manual, Pages 13-01-29 through 13-01-31 and Pinpoint "B" of the 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Page 10-03-9.

AEROSTAR - Perform normal PSOM diagnostics per Pinpoint Test "K" of the 1994 Aerostar Body/Chassis Service Manual, Page 13-01B-31.

1. Any slight dents, chips, etc., in either the exciter ring or VSS will create needle waver. Measure air gap between the VSS and exciter ring. It should be 0.38-0.51mm (0.015-0.020").

2. Check exciter ring runout per the same ring gear backface runout procedure of the appropriate model 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Section 05-00. Make sure the exciter ring is mounted correctly to the ring gear. If runout is more than 0.1mm (0.004"), perform the differential runout check per the procedure in the appropriate model 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Section 05-02A or 05-02D, to find cause and repair as needed.

3. If all items listed above check good, replace the Instrument Cluster Assembly. Obtain the correct service part number from the Parts Catalogue and then contact the Electronic Odometer Exchange Center at (800) 259-9700 for U.S. Dealers and (800) 663-9974 for Canadian Dealers.

NOTE:
DEALERSHIP MUST TELL THE ODOMETER EXCHANGE CENTER THAT YOU NEED A PSOM3 LEVEL CLUSTER FOR A SPEEDOMETER NEEDLE WAVER CONCERN.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

LABOR ALLOWANCE



DEALER CODING



OASIS CODES: 204000, 204100, 204200, 205000
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:28 PM
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Default Re: Free Auto Repair Advise or Answers

jgr1974,

What is going on with your Ranger?
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Old 04-27-2010, 12:54 PM
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Default Re: Free Auto Repair Advise or Answers

93 Chevy Silverado...Sometimes it just won't start (turn over). Battery cables are tight, battery is charged, 18-24 months old. Starter doesn't click repeatedly when this happens, nothing happens. When this happens and we jump start it, it starts right up. I'm guessing the problem is in the ignition somewhere??
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Old 04-27-2010, 05:34 PM
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Default Re: Free Auto Repair Advise or Answers

Wow, this is kewl. My problem is with a 2000 Ford Excursion with a 7.3 PS. One day the ex drove it to work and it refused to start. No turning over, no clicking, nothing. It has been a few years so I don't remember all the details but I do remember that nothing happened when the key was turns. I did have one starting problem with it that I fixed. That was the OD wire rubbed through the insulation on the shifter and shorted out a fuse. If it was running it would continue to run without control of the accelerator. If this happened while putting in park while turning off the engine, it would not start. I fixed that one myself. A Ford tech had told me that there had been some problems with that wire.

This problem is different. That time the engine would still turn over. This time around, nothing happens. What I would like is to get a list of things that I might check to see if the part is bad. I will go through the list one by one and eliminate probables. Thanks. This thread was a great idea.
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Old 04-27-2010, 11:11 PM
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Default Re: Free Auto Repair Advise or Answers

Crazy,

Did your starting problem just happen the one time, years ago? If so, is there a chance that the vehicle was slightly out of park? As I'm sure you are well aware, it will only turn over in park and neutral. A good sign that this could be the problem is if the warning lights in the dash come on in the ON position, but go out when the key is in the START position.

I know it sounds too simple, and may be, but frankly if it hasn't done it in years, I wouldn't worry much.


BTW, how did your ex finally get it started?
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Old 04-27-2010, 11:45 PM
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Default Re: Free Auto Repair Advise or Answers

Yes, it happened once. The problem is it was never started after that. I need to buy new batteries. I towed the vehicle back home. If I remember correctly, I tried starting it in neutral. Still nothing. It was completely different from the OD wire shorting out. It has a chipped key, but if I remember correctly, the car will still turn over but not start if the chip has failed. So you think a neutral safety switch? Maybe solenoid or starter? The thing I remember was absolutely no sound. No clicking, nothing.
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Old 04-28-2010, 12:17 AM
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Default Re: Free Auto Repair Advise or Answers

Well, if it didn't click at all, I wouldn't think it would be the starter. Even if the starter is bad, you should still hear the starter relay click. I'm leaning towards something in the circuit between the switch and the relay, which does include the neutral safety switch. After you get your new batteries, put a test light on the starter relay and see if you are getting power to the small terminal when the key is switched to START. If you get power, then it isn't in that circuit and the neutral safety switch is ok. While you are there, check to see if you have B+ on the large terminals of the relay. One should be hot all the time and one will be hot when the relay is energized (START) position.

You mentioned the PATS key. I don't remember if they would crank or not if the wrong key/defective key was inserted. If I remember right, the security light would flash rapidly if the wrong key was inserted and it was turned to the start position. If you can get a scan tool, it should set a DTC if that is the problem.

Hope this helps. Let me know how it turns out.
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Old 04-28-2010, 12:19 AM
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Default Re: Free Auto Repair Advise or Answers

I will. It may be a little bit before I can get to it. Thanks for the input.
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:38 AM
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2000 jetta TDI with Automatic Transmission I haven't had a chance to troubleshoot this at all as it happened just last night when I was driving home from Cincinnati to Pittsburgh. I was hoping you guys could help me identify what might be wrong with my TDI on a recent trip: - check engine light came on - no power on hills. I was driving through the mountains of west virginia and was barely able to go 40mph on most hills. RPMs were around 3000 with the pedal on the floor. It didn't sound like it was in too high a gear (I used to drive a manual so I am in tune with those sounds) - shifting is eratic at best, if I lay off the gas I can get it to shift




Year: 2000
Make: Volkswagen
Model: TDI
Engine: Diesel TDI

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