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Old 10-15-2019, 07:58 PM
captive coral captive coral is online now
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Originally Posted by Cuteandfuzzybunnies View Post
Iím a licensed locksmith. I donít do a lot of safe work but I can recommend a few good choices and if you are near Houston sell them to you. I can also likely help you find a safe tech in other states.


The lock is not the only or even most likely
Vulnerability in your safe. Itís possible to manipulate / drill and open it fairly simply. Really professionals wouldnít really
Call that a ď safe ď itís not rated. Itís more a residential security container. And itís likely not even rated that either. Those type of dates are really only good at keeping kids and smash and grab thieves out of your guns. I guess they can keep your wife from discovering how many guns you bought this month too. Not much else.

This may be enough for you. If it is I wouldnít bother changing the lock. I would consider a better safe since you will likely be paying a tech more than the cost of a better safe to open this one if it breaks or spending a long time with a saws all.

If you want a gun safe thatís going to keep somebody out who has any idea how to open a safe , get an amsec thatís UL rated. Fort Knox , Mesa and gaurdall also make pretty good safes , but skip the low end.

If you want to save money, look for a large safe thatís not a ď gun safe ď but made for a business by amsec or Diebold etc. you can often find them cheap if you have the equipment and strength to move them. Again you want a safe thatís UL rated ideally or construction rated if not.

UL ratings are time/sides. So TL15-6 would mean it takes a trained professional with proper tools 15 minutes minimum to cut through any of the 6 sides.

Construction ratings are based on knowledge of safe design. They are A,b, c etc. with a being the least secure. You want at least a B , but a C rating is really good. An F is equivalent to UL TL30.

Itís important to remember that your personal security needs should dictate what safe you have. Honestly most people are fine with a dependable RSC or B rated safe as long as itís properly installed. Installation is very important for safes especially those less than 350 pounds.

A gun room is also a good enough option for most people. Put en exterior door , re-enforced deadbolt and alarm sensor on a closet and itís safer than your cheap safes.

Can you tell me what UL 18 DN is?
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:00 PM
munik munik is offline
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Why Duracell and not some other battery? When I bought my safe I had read something similar prior that said the same thing and then when I looked at the owners manual it says Duracell or energizer. Just curious on the thinking on only Duracell. It was adamant on it bring an alkaline battery though..
When I get calls that a safe won't open, they tell me it's a keypad, and that they have already put new batteries in....but usually not Duracell.
I would say maybe 1/3 or more of the time I tell them to put in Duracell and they work fine. I then ask how old the safe is and then give them advice based on what they have and it's age.
I have only had duracells leak when they have been left in something for like 2 years...
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:49 AM
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Several reasons. See the link below.

Basically fire risk. The ammo will damage your guns at lower temps than they will get damaged without ammo there. 1 or two rounds is no big deal but hundreds will be an issue.

Also any significance amount of powder shouldn’t be stored in a pressure tight container.

“ Do not subject the storage cabinets to close confinement. Storage cabinets should be constructed of insulating materials and with a weak wall seams or joints to provide an easy means of self-venting”

Also a chambered round can cook off during a fire and shoot somebody. So if you store guns loaded in a safe keep them in condition 1. Most should be unloaded for safety.

Large amounts of primers should not be stored together there are ways to separate them for safety. Again we aren’t talking about 30 rounds here.

https://gunsafereviewsguy.com/articl...ire-ratings/3/
Don't know if you read your link, it appears there is no risk of bulk ammo "exploding" your gun safe? So if all you store in your ammo safe is ammo, I don't see an issue.

Powder, yes.
Ammo ha powder in it. But really it’s the primers that’s are the issue. And only if you have a LOT as in thousands.
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by captive coral View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuteandfuzzybunnies View Post
I’m a licensed locksmith. I don’t do a lot of safe work but I can recommend a few good choices and if you are near Houston sell them to you. I can also likely help you find a safe tech in other states.


The lock is not the only or even most likely
Vulnerability in your safe. It’s possible to manipulate / drill and open it fairly simply. Really professionals wouldn’t really
Call that a “ safe “ it’s not rated. It’s more a residential security container. And it’s likely not even rated that either. Those type of dates are really only good at keeping kids and smash and grab thieves out of your guns. I guess they can keep your wife from discovering how many guns you bought this month too. Not much else.

This may be enough for you. If it is I wouldn’t bother changing the lock. I would consider a better safe since you will likely be paying a tech more than the cost of a better safe to open this one if it breaks or spending a long time with a saws all.

If you want a gun safe that’s going to keep somebody out who has any idea how to open a safe , get an amsec that’s UL rated. Fort Knox , Mesa and gaurdall also make pretty good safes , but skip the low end.

If you want to save money, look for a large safe that’s not a “ gun safe “ but made for a business by amsec or Diebold etc. you can often find them cheap if you have the equipment and strength to move them. Again you want a safe that’s UL rated ideally or construction rated if not.

UL ratings are time/sides. So TL15-6 would mean it takes a trained professional with proper tools 15 minutes minimum to cut through any of the 6 sides.

Construction ratings are based on knowledge of safe design. They are A,b, c etc. with a being the least secure. You want at least a B , but a C rating is really good. An F is equivalent to UL TL30.

It’s important to remember that your personal security needs should dictate what safe you have. Honestly most people are fine with a dependable RSC or B rated safe as long as it’s properly installed. Installation is very important for safes especially those less than 350 pounds.

A gun room is also a good enough option for most people. Put en exterior door , re-enforced deadbolt and alarm sensor on a closet and it’s safer than your cheap safes.

Can you tell me what UL 18 DN is?
It’s the rating for RSCs from U.L. not sure what the 18 DN means though. I think the RSC standard is 5 minutes to open the safe with standard tools.
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Old 10-16-2019, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by munik View Post
When I get calls that a safe won't open, they tell me it's a keypad, and that they have already put new batteries in....but usually not Duracell.
I would say maybe 1/3 or more of the time I tell them to put in Duracell and they work fine. I then ask how old the safe is and then give them advice based on what they have and it's age.
I have only had duracells leak when they have been left in something for like 2 years...
Hmmm, sounds like the electrical characteristics of the Duracell is different somehow, but I can't think how. I will keep that in mind though as my safe has the keypad. Wonder how hard it would be to retrofit my safe with a combo lock..
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Pitbull_Dallas View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by munik View Post
When I get calls that a safe won't open, they tell me it's a keypad, and that they have already put new batteries in....but usually not Duracell.
I would say maybe 1/3 or more of the time I tell them to put in Duracell and they work fine. I then ask how old the safe is and then give them advice based on what they have and it's age.
I have only had duracells leak when they have been left in something for like 2 years...
Hmmm, sounds like the electrical characteristics of the Duracell is different somehow, but I can't think how. I will keep that in mind though as my safe has the keypad. Wonder how hard it would be to retrofit my safe with a combo lock..
I’m sorry but who still uses regular batteries ? I have boxes of rechargeables. They are so cheap on amazon now. I use them for everything. The only time I get a non rechargeable battery is when it comes with something I buy.
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Cuteandfuzzybunnies View Post
I’m sorry but who still uses regular batteries ? I have boxes of rechargeables. They are so cheap on amazon now. I use them for everything. The only time I get a non rechargeable battery is when it comes with something I buy.
The reason is the safe owners manual says to use "alkaline batteries only", no rechargeables. Given that, I can only assume rechargeables will screw up the lock system..
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Old 10-18-2019, 01:18 AM
munik munik is offline
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Originally Posted by Pitbull_Dallas View Post
Hmmm, sounds like the electrical characteristics of the Duracell is different somehow, but I can't think how. I will keep that in mind though as my safe has the keypad. Wonder how hard it would be to retrofit my safe with a combo lock..
If it's a real safe the retrofit is easy for a locksmith. When I open a troubled or failed electronic safe lock, I almost always replace it with a mechanical as a good mechanical lock like an s&g 6700 series will last the rest of most people's lives....and mechanicals will usually warn you of a problem whole the digitals usually either work or they don't..

I won't own an electronic...it's it if it will fail....it when.
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