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Old 05-05-2018, 08:27 AM
Redlineshooter Redlineshooter is offline
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to be honest did you watt calculation on what you are trying to power the generator..

base
1,000 watt exaust
1200 microwave
900-1800 air fryer
fridge and freezer 500-2400
1500 watt electric water heater..
1000-1800 watt aircon heater

roughly 8-12 kva is a base requirement at 220/240 volt.. ac @ 15-20 amps..

this will likely double if considering using 110/120 VAC as the power system..

this is not including the AV requirements you may run in your rv-caravan of upto 24 foot..

you will likely trip the built in protection circuit..

trying to use 2-3 on anything rated within 1000-2000 watt class of generators..

and if you want something to provide you with 24/7 power you are looking at diesel gensets from the get go..

petrol options are not designed for high use and 24/7 currant load..
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Old 09-01-2019, 01:24 AM
NETWizz NETWizz is offline
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Me again. I am only at 7.3 hours, and the last couple of oil changes have been with the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10W-30 at the recommended 6 month intervals. It has been pretty much a waste of oil in that I am not even at the 20 hours the manual says for the first oil change.

At any rate, I am going to stick with the Ultra Platinum because it is a Group III making it behave like a very good conventional. That said, I am generally only doing changes at every 6 months because I really do not use the thing except about 20 minutes every few months to test it and circulate gasoline through it. Generally this means I vacuum the floor and or run my electric string trimmer.

I have installed a hardline hour meter. Spare parts I keep on hand are a service manual, a couple plugs, another set of Honda foam filters, and a K&N filter oil, a can of starter fluid, can of carb cleaner, and a couple extra quarts of oil. I have been storing 10 gallons of gasoline on hand in the Justrite safety cans, too. I have a fuel cap with a quick connect and a marine fuel tank for extended run should the need arise.

My gasoline choice has been to buy ethanol free 90 octane from Shell or Mobil; since, those are the top-tier stations in my area that sell E-Free. I then spike it with 2 oz of stabil RED per 5 gallons. Every 3 months, I rotate the fuel out putting it into my car to dispose of it. I use a hand pump to empty the generator's gas tank, which is just under 1 gallon. Then I go to the Gas station and get fresh gas and treat it.

I do that BEFORE starting it. Then I run it 20 minutes to circulate the clean fuel and top it up.

PUT AWAY PROCEDURE:

I turn the shutofff to stop the fuel flow while leaving the ignition on, and it runs for a couple minutes, coughs, sputters and dies. Then I drain the float bowl. Then I pull the rope until I feel compression, to close the valves to the combustion chamber.

...

Then I store it in a sterilite container indoors to keep it away from extreme temperature changes and reduce the humidity.



It runs my fridge just fine, and that takes 700 watts to start and only about 300 watts running according to my meter. You barely hear it start the load. My TV takes about 200 watts, and other than that, I have a cable modem and wireless modem, which are very small loads. I easily have enough left to run a laptop, which I would do in the bedroom after turning off the TV most likely and charge some phones or run the desktop computer.


My loads run just fine. What I want to do is before the winter add a transfer switch for my most critical loads. It would be nice because all my lighting is LED in the house, so that is virtually nothing. Other than that, I would want to be able to run my central heat in the winter, which I suspect is possible because it has an ECM motor, so it should startup nice and soft on the generator. I also have a tankless water heater, which requires electricity to run its electronics even though it is natural gas fired. Ultimately, I would really like to have hot water.


What I don't expect:
Air Conditioning
Washer or Dryer
Microwave (only do-able if most all other loads are disconnected)
Toaster
any space heaters
Dishwasher
Oven or Stove

If I stick to lighting, refrigerator, and critical electronics, 1800 watts should be enough to maintain a basic standard of living. All cooking would be done with propane. Most likely I would just use the side burner on my gas grill and pan fry or boil on one burner.


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Old 09-01-2019, 06:08 AM
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Follow the manufacturer's instructions for break in period. I suspect it's one oil change after 5 or 10 hours and then onto the regular change interval.

Besides regular oil changes (which are important), I would do the following for a long life and dependability:
  • Pull it out and run it once a month.
  • Always shut off the gas petcock and run the carburetor's dry when you're done with it. Gas sitting in the carb bowl will evaporate away leaving a sticky varnish that blocks jets, gums up your carb float needle, and makes your generator not start the next time.
  • If you're running it just to test it, Put very little gas in the tank. Gas sitting for years is not good.
  • Buy a spare carb. You can probably get one for less than $20. It's the most likely part to fail.
  • Buy a spare starter (pull cord assembly), it's the second most likely part to go bad.
  • Print out a service manual. After a hurricane passes and the roads are out for a week (had it happen to us) you're on your own getting this thing going.
  • keep a spray can of starting fluid around. If your generator runs properly, you'll never need it. But, when it's 10F out, raining, and you've pulled the cord 50 times, It can make a big difference.
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Old 09-01-2019, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NETWizz View Post
Me again. I am only at 7.3 hours, and the last couple of oil changes have been with the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10W-30 at the recommended 6 month intervals. It has been pretty much a waste of oil in that I am not even at the 20 hours the manual says for the first oil change.

...
No reason to change the oil so often.
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Old 09-01-2019, 11:39 AM
NETWizz NETWizz is offline
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Not changing it again until 20 hours on the clock or six months. Then every 50 to 100 hours
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Old 09-01-2019, 11:53 AM
woowoo2 woowoo2 is offline
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Originally Posted by NETWizz View Post
Not changing it again until 20 hours on the clock or six months. Then every 50 to 100 hours
No need to at six months if you have not made it to 20 hours.
The oil wont go bad.
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Old 09-01-2019, 12:17 PM
Wolf6actual Wolf6actual is offline
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Be careful with synthetics. Most generators require a detergent oil since there's no oil filter.
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Old 09-01-2019, 05:37 PM
augoldminer augoldminer is offline
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Once you are done with break in i would add Add Slick 50 oil treatment to your engine.

I worked for a contractor years ago that used slick 50 treatment in All of there company engines.
The company believed it saved them 1000s of dollars a year in costs and mechanics repairs

One day i was running a small generator on a truck and walked around to get a tool from one of the boxes and found a large oil puddle where the generator drain plug had come out and i shut down the generator.
We put the plug back in and put in new oil and fired up the generator and never had any problem with it even though we knew it had run without oil in it.

After that i have always Used slick 50 in my engines.
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Old 09-01-2019, 08:53 PM
fishingjeff fishingjeff is offline
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NETWizz only one answer: Read the manual, then read it again. Follow their instructions, not your wild ideas of somany oil changes and not gaping the plugs. Pre gap them ,then store them in a Ziploc bag with no air and desiccant bags.
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Old 09-02-2019, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf6actual View Post
Be careful with synthetics. Most generators require a detergent oil since there's no oil filter.
Synthetic oils are generally high detergent. You can generally at least double the run time between oil changes, compared to conventional oils.

Break in?????? Sheeeeesh! Just RUN the darn thing. Follow the owners manual for oil change intervals. If using synthetic oil it is safe to double the change intervals. It is unlikely to wear out due to oil issues.

We use full synthetic in my wife's turbocharged Escape. Change every 10,000 miles. 150,000 now and no issues.

Ram pickup with 6.7 turbo diesel. Change synthetic oil every 15,000 miles. 140,000 miles on it, no issues.
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Old 09-02-2019, 01:26 PM
arleigh arleigh is offline
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I have gas that happens to be a few years old and it is stored in 55 gallon drums sealed tight. with stabilizer .
So long as the barrel s kept full and there is no air space nor ventilation it will remain viable.
I too run my gas powered equipment out of fuel for storage ,left over fuel should be returned to air tight storage. fuel tanks on equipment have vents that will let fuels gas off.
With diesel it is not quite as sensitive but with all reciprocating equipment it is a good idea to spin it once in a while not necessarily starting it. Humidity gets every where except in 2 cycle engines dependent on reed valves behind the carburetor intake.
An other option is to use fogging oil on shut down for coating the top end internals keeping moisture off the valves and cylinder wall and rings.
Boat shops cary fogging oil use in winter storage .
If you can toss a piece of clean steel out side and it not get rusty you don't need to worry about it.
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Old 09-02-2019, 01:41 PM
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My goodness!
I've been doing this break-in thing wrong all my life.
When my generators were new I ran them for an hour or so, putting a load on periodically to make sure they worked.
Then I put them away and start them every couple months. When called on for heavy, lengthy duty they have always worked just fine. For years now.
I only change the oil when it looks dirty. Once so far for each of them. But I'm lucky like that.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
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Old 09-03-2019, 01:24 PM
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Breaking in a new engine is like applying pesticide. "Read and follow all label direction"
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Old 09-03-2019, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SgtBooker44 View Post
Breaking in a new engine is like applying pesticide. "Read and follow all label direction"

It is not complicated, it's easy to do...apparently when it comes to generators the first thing to bite the dust IS the manual or instructions that came with it and/or available online....
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Old 09-03-2019, 03:26 PM
Brettny Brettny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattB4 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by NETWizz View Post
Me again. I am only at 7.3 hours, and the last couple of oil changes have been with the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10W-30 at the recommended 6 month intervals. It has been pretty much a waste of oil in that I am not even at the 20 hours the manual says for the first oil change.

...
No reason to change the oil so often.
There is a reason. Suspended metal particles in the oil durring bearing, ring and cylinder break in.
I wouldnt wait longer than 1hr the first hr. Then 4-5hrs then take a look at what you can see in the oil. Engine oil is cheap..alot cheaper than buying a new generator.
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettny View Post
There is a reason. Suspended metal particles in the oil durring bearing, ring and cylinder break in.
I wouldnt wait longer than 1hr the first hr. Then 4-5hrs then take a look at what you can see in the oil. Engine oil is cheap..alot cheaper than buying a new generator.
Indeed. With no filter there is nothing to catch all the metal that gets into the oil during break in. There is a reason for it.
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Old 09-03-2019, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettny View Post
There is a reason. Suspended metal particles in the oil durring bearing, ring and cylinder break in.
I wouldnt wait longer than 1hr the first hr. Then 4-5hrs then take a look at what you can see in the oil. Engine oil is cheap..alot cheaper than buying a new generator.
I should have been more explanatory. You are correct that you should initially change the oil after a few hours from being new.

Honda's owner manual suggests 5 hours or the first month. But after that is 25 hours or 50 hours (depending on heavy or light usage) or 6 months. It is my opinion the 6 months oil change is not as important if the generator is almost not used in that time.
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Old 09-03-2019, 11:30 PM
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Follow OEM standards for oil type and change intervals
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Old 09-04-2019, 01:27 AM
randolphrowzeebragg randolphrowzeebragg is offline
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Nothing hazardous about babying a nice new piece of gear. Might not help but definitely won't hurt to be careful about oil changes, shutdown procedures, types of gas used, etc.
Letting it warm up under no load for a few minutes will likely get the inverter pack up to temp and less likely to crack a heat sink than if you applied a heavy load immediately after startup.
Regular oil and filter changes and letting the engine get up to operating temp has kept all my engines running with good compression and no oil burning.
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Old 09-04-2019, 01:06 PM
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The manufacturer sends instructions with the unit. Be guided accordingly...or not...LOL
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