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Old 04-29-2018, 11:38 PM
NETWizz NETWizz is offline
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Default Bought new Generator; Need Help with Break-In



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Bought my first, Generator



I bought this and it runs great!

I need a break-in procedure though because all I did was test run it.

I put in Genuine Honda 10W-30 API-SN motor-oil (probably cheap, conventional oil)


Plan is (Cumulative hours)

0 hours Honda Oil and test unit.

20 minutes (Oil change #1 with Honda Oil to get metal filings out)

Run with light load for about 40 more minutes...

1 Hour (Oil change #2 with the rest of the Honda oil - I have a quart and a 12oz container of it)

Run with a moderate load... for 2 hours...

3 Hour (Oil Change #3 was going to go Semi-Synthetic but cannot find any, so 10W-30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Fully Synthetic - It's Group III base-stock made from natural gas).

Beat the engine in making it work very hard running a 1500 Watt load like a space heater. Varying loads. for three hours...

6 Hour mark. (Oil Change #3 The rest of the Pennzoil Synthetic)

10 Hour mark (Oil Change #4 switch to the regular Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic 10W-30)

25 Hour mark (Oil Change #5 Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic)


Every 25 Hours there-after unless I am in a heavy storm and it is raining or something.

************


Anything I should know that anybody would like to add?

I am putting it in my backyard when in use, and although I have a fence, I would like to chain it, too. Any suggestions?

I bought a couple extra genuine NGK spark plugs; since, I am not going to mess with the gap check at 100 hour intervals and instead am just going to replace the plug when I remove it. Simply put it has a crush washer, and I do not want to try re-crushing it, and the plugs are less than $3! I wrote down the torque spec converting it to inch pounds already, so I am ready.

I am buying only ethanol-free gasoline from Shell or Chevron. It is 90 Octane, and I am treating it with regular Sta-Bil at 1 oz per 2.5 gallons.

When I put it away, I am going to be turning the switch to shut off the fuel letting it burn out then drain the carb float bowl. I am storing it indoors in a closet, so it is not exposed to the temperature changes and humidity in the garage.


Is there anything else I can do to make sure that it for sure works when I need it?
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Old 04-29-2018, 11:54 PM
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I just purchased the Westinghouse iGEN2500 and I went through a break-in procedure.



I believe an engine needs a load on it and higher than idle rpm's for it to be broken in properly.

I poured in the oil supplied and put a 25% load on it for one hour. I dumped that oil, as I don't want break-in metals to stay in the sump any longer than necessary. I poured in another round of 10w30 conventional oil and ran it for another hour, 30 min at 25% load and 30 min at 50% load. Dumped that oil and poured in a high dollar synthetic 5w30 (Because I had a quart of it on hand.)

I will use this oil fill for camping trips unit the end of June. I am guessing I will put about 20 hours on the unit. I'll change the oil again, pouring in the rest of the quart of the high dollar synthetic.

After that, I will probably use Rotella semi-synthetic 10w30..... I can get a gallon of that at WallyWorld for about $16. That will be about 8-9 oil fills with a sump of .37 liters. I personally believe this oil to be the unparalleled best for 10w30 applications.


......
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Old 04-30-2018, 01:13 AM
rmaples rmaples is offline
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Nice looking generator. Never had one before that's in a housing like that. Is it difficult to get to the motor for maintenance? How many horsepower?
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Old 04-30-2018, 02:13 AM
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I am impressed that both of you took the trouble to break them in. Cheapest thing you can do is change the oil often. I would try and get the factory rebuild book for your unit. Does it have air/fuel/oil filter? I would put anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads and the exhaust system nuts/bolts. Carb rebuild kit in a vac sealed bag.

I will be buying PRI-G when I run out of Sta-Bil. I have used 4-5 year old gas treated every year with Sta with no issues blending it in with 1:3 with fresh new gas. I'd stock some car size fuel filters and hose to use to syphon gas from cans to your unit. Harvested gas from other sources during SHTF event might not be top notch.

I lived on generator power for up to weeks at a time as an Army radio man. Never let them run out of gas under load - items can fry due to power surges. I don't care what they say, I want my unit properly grounded even if I need to install one myself.

There was an oil supplement Prolong that I liked, not sure if its still around.

I'd run them for at least a half hour every few months.

In the DIY zone a while back someone was looking for university senior design project. I thought that a no moving part (except the water) water heater tank/box that used the waste heat off the engine exhaust to heat water. The box/tank could hold the generator and the heat exchanger/hoses for storage. Would you pay say $250 for such a unit? Consider that 75% of your fuel $ are wasted and how useful hot water is. Maybe a smaller unit that would be food grade.
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Old 04-30-2018, 04:02 AM
Skinnyone Skinnyone is offline
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Read the manual.

With modern machining and materials, break in techniques that were applicable 50 years ago are superfluous.
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Old 04-30-2018, 08:30 AM
Brettny Brettny is offline
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Read the manual. I highly doubt it says to change the oil 5x in 25hrs. Most say break in on dino oil then change to synthetic.
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Old 04-30-2018, 09:01 AM
woowoo2 woowoo2 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettny View Post
Read the manual. I highly doubt it says to change the oil 5x in 25hrs. Most say break in on dino oil then change to synthetic.
OP, you are thinking too hard on this one, just go by the manual.
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Old 04-30-2018, 10:19 AM
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Default Bought new Generator; Need Help with Break-In

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_John View Post
I just purchased the Westinghouse iGEN2500 and I went through a break-in procedure.



I believe an engine needs a load on it and higher than idle rpm's for it to be broken in properly.

I poured in the oil supplied and put a 25% load on it for one hour. I dumped that oil, as I don't want break-in metals to stay in the sump any longer than necessary. I poured in another round of 10w30 conventional oil and ran it for another hour, 30 min at 25% load and 30 min at 50% load. Dumped that oil and poured in a high dollar synthetic 5w30 (Because I had a quart of it on hand.)

I will use this oil fill for camping trips unit the end of June. I am guessing I will put about 20 hours on the unit. I'll change the oil again, pouring in the rest of the quart of the high dollar synthetic.

After that, I will probably use Rotella semi-synthetic 10w30..... I can get a gallon of that at WallyWorld for about $16. That will be about 8-9 oil fills with a sump of .37 liters. I personally believe this oil to be the unparalleled best for 10w30 applications.


......


I have no idea what using rotella in a gas engine will do but I know it is usually used in Diesel engines.

Edit to add:
It looks like most modern diesel oils also carry the SN spec so will be fine in gas engine.
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Old 04-30-2018, 02:34 PM
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Jack Swilling Jack Swilling is online now
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" I personally believe this oil to be the unparalleled best for 10w30 applications."

Now that is funny. I needed a good laugh. "Unparalleled."
I hear that all the time, the ne plus ultra of 10-30 oil is Rotella synthetic blend.
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Old 04-30-2018, 03:00 PM
dmas dmas is offline
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Some spark plug threads are specially coated to be installed dry. I like anti seize but it can change torque values alot like 20%. never seen a crush washer on plugs but crush washers can be tricky because of changing torque. What I'm saying is read instructions and follow them.
You could stick a magnet on drain plug.
Good extension cord are not cheap.
You might pull the starting cord a few times to make sure piston is free and spread some oil. Since there's no gas in it washing away oil shouldn't be a problem. Starting with a load and little oil is when practically all wear is caused. frequent oil change is important because of no filter.
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Old 05-01-2018, 08:25 AM
Brettny Brettny is offline
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Rotella is great oil and not to expesive. Some guys are useing it in wet clutch motorcycles. I use it on my polaris rzr and small engiess. Its cheap for a synthetic. I believe home depot had it for $22 a gal.
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:05 AM
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Read the owners manual. The manual that came with my EU1000 says initial oil change after one month or 10 hours of use, subsequent oil changes every six months or hundred hours of use. Seems pretty straight forward, this is my second Honda generator and if it's anything like the first it should give me years of dependable service.
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:39 AM
America's Patriot America's Patriot is offline
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I thought they were broken in at the factory now...
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Old 05-01-2018, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by America's Patriot View Post
I thought they were broken in at the factory now...
They're shipped dry (without oil) so I doubt the factory does anything beyond QC.
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Old 05-01-2018, 12:34 PM
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Best advice I can give
Open Operators Manual....Read Manual....follow manual.
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Old 05-01-2018, 08:00 PM
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A cheap hour meter, if the generator gets used a lot, sure is handy for knowing when to change the oil.
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Old 05-02-2018, 05:08 PM
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Read the manual and follow their recommended maintenance schedules. You don't need to use their oil either, they still have to warranty it under Federal law.

Changing the oil before its due, only wastes time, money and oil

My biggest issues with generators is the gas, trash builds up in the primary jet and bowl. They are simple to pull and clean, I do mine at least once a year

I've not had good luck with Stabil, not for small engines anyway. I use Seafoam exclusively if I'm storing gas for long periods otherwise I run straight pump gas.

Those Honda's are quiet, I have a friend that has one. The generators I use are quite a bit larger
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Old 05-05-2018, 01:37 AM
NETWizz NETWizz is offline
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I bought some security chain to lock it up in the back yard when I have it running from here:

https://www.1st-chainsupply.com/chai...-1-2/index.htm

I also ordered their lock that is expected to need at least an angle grinder or an acetylene torch to cut.


********

I did the first oil change at 20 minutes with Honda oil. I did the second at 1.1 hours... Honda oil! I ended up installing an hour-meter already.

Anyway, the next change will be at 3 hours to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Synthetic (really a Group III) typically hydrocracked but made from Gas To Liquid. Most synthetics have Group III as their basestock.

Going to run it 3 hours on that, change it then 4 hours... At that point I will have 10 hours on the clock then will run Mobil 1 Synthetic, which has a bunch of PAO Group IV oils, and is suitable for long drain intervals of probably up to about 200 hours though I will be changing it A) in multiples of 25 hours on the hour meter for normal use B) every two to three days of continuous use in a severe outage, or C) annually.

My plan is to run the generator at least 20 minutes a month keeping about 2 gallons of ethanol-free gas on hand outside of a storm. If a Storm is expected, I will be filling the generator to full, and my 2 gallon can and two 5 gallon can to have 12 gallons on hand plus 1 gallon in the generator.
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Old 05-05-2018, 03:58 AM
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I work with diesel engines for a living and honestly believe you're WAY overthinking this oil/break-in procedure. I'm all for an early 1st oil change to get rid of any manufacturing debris, then run to the recommended interval. I'm also a huge fan of, and believer in synthetic oil. Flows far better, especially in cold conditions. Well worth the money IMHO. But I would wait until you've run it to at least the first recomended change interval to go to synthetic to give the rings a chance to seat in.

Honda's recommended change interval (at least for the predecessor EU2000i) is first time at 20 hours and then every 100 hrs. They know their product, wouldn't hurt to listen to their recommendations.

Many Feathers nailed it when he said fuel is likely to cause many more issues. Stabilized non-eythnol gas stored in good quality containers and you'll avoid most issues.

Good Luck with your new Honda, you've got a terrific bit of kit there.
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Old 05-05-2018, 07:29 AM
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Agreed going beyond. Besides running time it's load.
Good thought on security. You can get a power lost alarm.
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