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Old 01-07-2018, 09:31 PM
justin22885 justin22885 is offline
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Originally Posted by PalmettoTree View Post
A Glock and a 1911. Both have been represented here positively. I have always opted for easy carry size and weight which keeps me passing them up.
i think its good to have at least one full size pistol, glock or 1911, either one is fine, either one will have a lot of aftermarket and be chambered in something common, either one available in single and double stack as well, and either one i can build 100% custom from an 80% frame on up.. in fact, which one to go with and do exactly that has been a bit of a personal debate.. glock just takes the lead for me because im sticking with 9mm regardless
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Old 01-07-2018, 09:32 PM
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Same story as most.
Most often G19 because it's the best fit between size, capacity, and features (4" barrel, reliability, accessory availability, etc...).
Kahr CM9 and J-frame for pocket carry. Depends on what I'm wearing and what I feel like.
I also have a 1911 and G17 that I carry OWB at times. When the mood suites me...
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Old 01-07-2018, 09:43 PM
Disturbed70 Disturbed70 is offline
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I own, and have carried regularly, Glocks (including G27, G22, G17, G19, and G21); S&W M&P9FS; 1911; Sig P220 and P320; Makarov; H&K Mk23; Beretta M9; and S&W Shield. On top of that I've fired countless others. My go-to is a G19. No other gun offers everything it does.

1. Reasonably priced
2. Accurate enough (no problem keeping everything on an IPSC steel at 100 yds)
3. Reliable
4. Small enough to conceal
5. Large enough to shoot well
6. Easy to work on
7. Parts are available everywhere, cheaply
8. Good capacity
9. Readily available, cheap magazines
10. Insane aftermarket.
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Old 01-07-2018, 09:52 PM
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Glocks are probably the gun that has the biggest gap between who actually likes them, and who some people perceive as liking them. Of the people I know, the more experienced they are with guns and the more time they spend training, the more likely they are to own and rely on Glocks. The damn things just work. But then you see people online (including here) who have this idea in their heads that they have trouble letting go of, that Glocks are mostly owned by 20 year old Eminem fans. It's actually kind of funny.
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:30 PM
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I always thought I was too old to change. After decades of 1911s and big 357s.

I carry a G43 in town. I love shooting that thing after adding the Ameriglo Spartan sights.

Fishing and playing around I enjoy the Ruger LCR. The trigger is not bad at all. It doesn't compare to my old colts or model 36s but it's a light revolver.

Never thought I would carry modern guns. I talked a lot of crap about polymer. I was wrong. I have G30sf in the truck. My buddies still give me hell about it but I out shoot them all the time with their 30+ year companion 45. Hahahaha
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Old 01-07-2018, 11:06 PM
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Glock 19 Gen 3 is my favorite handgun of all times. Why?

It has less than 40 parts and I can replace any of them in less than 5 minutes with nothing more than a finish nail.

It is supremely reliable.

It has an insane amount of both factory and aftermarket support.

Mags are cheap.

It is very compact, while still being a duty size gun making it great for CC.

I shoot it very well.

It gives me great confidence when it is on my hip.

It has a consistent trigger pull.

It is beautiful to me. And yes I own many other handguns and have owned some high end 1911s.



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Old 01-07-2018, 11:24 PM
AZ_HighCountry AZ_HighCountry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin94 View Post
Glock 19 Gen 3 is my favorite handgun of all times. Why?

Mags are cheap.

It is very compact, while still being a duty size gun making it great for CC.

I shoot it very well.

It gives me great confidence when it is on my hip.
Agreed on above points. It will also take G17 mags. I have both OC'd and CC'd mine. It shoots very well.
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Old 01-07-2018, 11:26 PM
Outpost75 Outpost75 is offline
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To be a handgun, whether pistol or revolver, is simply a tool. If it is safe, simple to maintain, reliable, accurate enough and powerful enough to do the job, I don't care.

I am partial to DA revolvers because they are what I first trained with and carried. A +P capable 6-shot .38 Special is my common carry, but if country restrictions or custom require a .32 ACP, .380, 7.62x25 or a .22LR to blend in or because you are limited by ammo supply, you dance with the girl you brought.
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Old 01-08-2018, 07:40 AM
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Glock and Walther...Have never had a problem with either, all of my handguns are stock...
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Old 01-08-2018, 01:15 PM
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For me...first choice is a 1911 (currently carrying a full size Kimber CDP). It just "feels" right, and when I bring it up, that front sight is always where it should be.

Second choice is a Sig P226 with a Veridian laser/light and matching holster. My wife loves it because she shoots the lighter kicking 9mm like a champ. For me, it has never failed to go boom. It just runs, no questions asked.

Third is a late 70's .357 Colt Python, why...because it was my grandfathers service gun!
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Old 01-08-2018, 01:23 PM
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It fits my hand and goes BANG when I squeeze the trigger.
It holds more than 6 rounds and came with 2 extra mags when I bought it.
Its the middle child of 9mm and .45 so there are fewer "fights".

I like my M&P 40 C.O.R.E. Pro Series and got a good deal on it.
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Old 01-08-2018, 02:18 PM
Timao Theos Timao Theos is offline
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I prefer the handguns that i have because they are the ones i could afford. Sure, id love to have all the handguns i cant afford. At least i get to carry the ones i have, covers gun fightings rule number one.
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Old 01-08-2018, 02:42 PM
ajole ajole is offline
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My preferences depend on use, situation, clothing, and costs.
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Old 01-08-2018, 02:52 PM
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[QUOTE=justin22885;17242970]i prefer two handguns.. one is my CZ 75 SP01.. i prefer it because its about the only steel frame double stack 9mm still produced, has a reputation for quality, reliability, and accuracy, and the SP01 version with the rail lets me mount a light for home defense

the makarov PM i use for EDC is preferred because its probably the most reliable handgun currently in existence while delivering a cartridge more than adequate for defense while still being compact and light enough to carry daily, the straight blowback will be less prone to certain issues recoil operated pistols have, and overall greatly simplifies the design into something that in all likeliness will last forever

[/QUOTE

It's not my EDC, but I too love my Makarov PM for its reliability and accuracy.

The CZ75 Compact is on my shopping/trade for list too.
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Old 01-08-2018, 02:56 PM
kraigwy kraigwy is offline
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I have a ton on full,med, and small size revolvers and pistols.

I carry my S&W J Frame 642 24/7. Fits my pocket, never failed me and I shoot it enough to be quite comfortable with it.

I just it walking around my property, use it to hunt rabbits. I've killed coyotes trying to get my chickens and rattlers in the yard. Even used it when I had to put down a couple horses. Not to mention the game I've finished off.

Yet its small enough to 'totally' conceal and is comfortable to carry.
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Old 01-08-2018, 04:01 PM
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I prefer the gun I carry because it's the one I have. Or it's one of the other ones I have.

We can all sit here and try and explain why the one we have is the best, because we say it's the best, but all that does is validate half the population and tick off the other half.

Was I comfortable with the pistol I carry when I first started carrying it? Maybe not so much, but it was also almost 25 years ago. After thousands of rounds, it still does what it's supposed to do, and does it as good as the other one I have that might have only a few hundred rounds through it.

Pistol, revolver, zip gun, whatever. I'm not even going to mention the make or model. It works, and it works for me.
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Old 01-08-2018, 04:14 PM
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My thoughts on a weapons battery and why:


1. Main Battle Rifle (MBR) - .308 in a Beretta BM-59/69 clone. Next choice is a folding stock PTR-91. .308 because it will do just about everything the M-16/M-4, AK-47/74, and SKS platforms in 5.56, 7.62x39, 5.45x39 will, just not quite as well for a couple of things, plus it can do things those platforms and cartridges can’t. Can also hunt most North American big game, and small game with .32 ACP adapters. Beretta BM-59/69 because of the tri-compensator and bipod, and the general reliability of the Garand action. PTR-91 because it is somewhat cheaper than the competitors and the magazines (right now, anyway) are only $2 - $6 for good used alloy ones. Next choice is M1A, but it is more expensive all the way around. Minimum of 3 load outs of magazines, dependent on your LBE. 1,000 rounds per gun.

Many will say you don't need an MBR round in urban areas because of ranges. I disagree. There are long open stretches along streets, and if the attackers have long range weapons and you don't, you are pretty much out of luck and can be harassed until the attackers get close enough to take you out. Plus the penetration is much better with .308 for those that think they are under cover when it is only concealment to the .308.

Why no light combat rifle? (M-16/M-4 types, AK-47/74 types, and SKS platforms in 7.62x39, 6.8, 6.5, 5.56, 5.45x39) They tend to be lighter than MBRs, but only somewhat for some of them. Others are quite a bit lighter, as is the ammunition. One can carry more ammunition, yes. But it is not as effective as .308 by a long shot. Doesn’t have the range, when needed, of the .308. And though one can carry more ammunition with the lighter calibers, it boils down to how many targets can you successfully engage with that ammunition load? Where it often takes 2, 3, 4, or more rounds of 5.56 to successfully engage and put down an attacker due to cover, body armor, deflection of the round, and several other reasons, 1 or 2, occasionally 3 rounds of .308 is likely to take down that same adversary. 210 rounds standard load, divided by 3 is 70 targets engaged. 180 rounds (my standard load of .308 for the PTR-91) divided by 2 is 90 targets engaged. Now, there are a tremendous number of variables when it comes to targets engaged. But in aimed, controlled fire, I think the .308 has the lead. In spray and pray, or heavy suppressive fire, the 5.56 et al probably do.

2. Primary self defense handgun - .45 ACP in a Para-Ordnance P-14. .45 ACP because it will get the job done quiet effectively with reliable FMJ rounds with moderate recoil in a practical size. Readily available ammunition. Para-Ordnance P-14 for magazine capacity in .45 ACP and all metal construction. Next choice is Glock 21SF due to magazine capacity and lower cost. 12 magazines. Minimum of 500 rounds.

3. Dual purpose shotgun – 12 gauge in Remington 11-87 26” barrel w/Poly-choke and various tactical accessories. 12 gauge because of readily available ammunition, it is most effective in most situations including hunting. 11-87 because it is semi-auto which helps reduce recoil, can use many different loads due to the gas system (26” barrels up only. Short barrels don’t have the gas compensation system), and is faster on follow-up aimed shots than pumps for most people. Next choice is the same gun w/o the tactical additions. Minimum of 500 rounds mixed 00 buck/slugs, 500 rounds mixed hunting rounds.

4. Sniping/hunting gun – Remington 700 .30-’06 with Bushnell Elite 4200 2.5-10 x 40mm. .30-’06 will take all but the largest most dangerous game at long range. Adequate sniping weapon at ranges up to ~600 yards. Availability of ammunition. Can use .32 ACP and/or .30 Carbine for small game very quietly with chamber adapter. Why .30-’06 instead of .308? Because it gives two calibers, both of which are acceptable hunting and defense calibers. Ammunition for hunting would be purchased for either weapon, so you would have the same number of rounds in either case. 5 magazines, 400 rounds sniping rounds, 400 rounds mixed hunting rounds.

5. Hideout handgun - .32 ACP in Beretta Tomcat. .32 ACP because it is useable in .30 caliber rifles as a small game load with the use of chamber adapters. Minimum power for self defense in semi-auto pistols. Tomcat because of its small size, quality, and price. 9 magazines. 250 defensive rounds, 250 for hunting in the .30-'06.

6. Secondary self defense handgun - .45 ACP in Para-Ordnance P-10. Slightly smaller package that will take the larger P-14 magazines as well. Next Choice is a Glock 30 for its lower cost and ability to take the Glock 21SF magazines. 6 10-round, 6 additional P-14 14-round magazines. Additional 250 rounds ammunition.

7. Dangerous/large game/light anti-materiel rifle - .375 H&H Magnum in Remington 700 bolt action. .375 H&H magnum for availability, and proven record on big, dangerous game. Moderately effective anti-material round. Better dual purpose round than smaller rounds and the bigger magnums because of recoil, availability, and cost. Remington 700 because of price and the fact that it is repeater, which is important in big/dangerous game and anti-material use. 5 magazines. 400 rounds anti-material rounds, 200 hunting rounds.

8. Hand-out gun(s) – Auto Ordnance.30 Carbine in M1 Carbine. .30 Carbine because it is small and light, works in a small frame box magazine semi-auto gun, has ballistics at 200 yards slightly better than .357 Magnum at the muzzle. M1 Carbine because it is light, handy, easy to handle, and more accurate in unskilled hands than a full power handgun or rifle. Also not too expensive for the carbines, magazines, and ammunition. 30 15-round magazines per gun, 1,000 rounds defensive rounds per gun, 200 hunting rounds for the .30-'06

9. Personal Defense Weapon (PDR) – PDR for primarily non-combatants. Same as the hand-out gun for all the same reasons. Small enough and light enough to keep slung when doing many tasks, unlike full power weapons. Pistols are ‘handier’ in that they are smaller and lighter, but inexperienced shooters seem to handle a light carbine more effectively than a pistol. 30 15-round magazines per gun, 1,000 rounds defensive rounds per gun.

10. Get-home-bag/trunk gun – Again the .30 Carbine, this time with a folding stock. For most of the same reasons above. There are guns that compact as much or more than a folding stock .30 Carbine, but most have a much larger profile and the gun and ammunition are heavier and bulkier. Some that seem ideal I don’t trust to be reliable. (Not a BOB or GOOD or INCH bag – they call for an MBR in my opinion) 30 15-round magazines per gun, 1,000 rounds defensive rounds per gun.

11. Long Ranger sniper/anti-material rifle – Vigilance VR-1 .408 Cheytac because of its effectiveness at long ranges for both anti-personnel and anti-materiel sniping. VR-1 because it’s light for the caliber (18#), semi-auto. .408 Cheytac due to its effectiveness compared to the .50 BMG and .416 Barrett, and the fact that it is available in lighter and easier to handle weapons. Very expensive. 5 magazines. 600 rounds of ammunition

Why no .22 LR or other rimfires – Simply because they cannot be reloaded. When you’re out of ammunition, you are out of ammunition. They are so common that finding one post-disaster shouldn’t be much of a problem. Same with the ammunition early on, and then, when it’s all gone, they aren’t useable. For hunting, using a .32 ACP chamber adapter in a .308 or .30-’06 bolt action rifle provides for near silent small game hunting. The .30 M1 Carbines can do pretty much substitute for a .22 rim fire rifle or carbine will do and the rounds are reloadable.

12. Black powder cartridge arms - .45-70 in Marlin 1895, .45 Colt in Ruger New Model Blackhawk Convertible, .32-20 in Ruger Blackhawk & Marlin 1894 rifle. .45-70 because it is the most plentiful of the big bore black powder cartridges is powerful enough for any American big game at short ranges. Marlin because of quality. .45 Colt because it is the most common powerful black powder hand gun cartridge easily available. Ruger for the same reason as the Marlin. .32-20 because it is a better small game cartridge than the .45-70 or .45 Colt, and available in Ruger and Marlin firearms. 1,000 rounds each caliber each gun.

13. Blackpowder muzzle loaders - .58 caliber flintlock rifle, .58 caliber flintlock handgun (x3), .32 flintlock rifle, 12 gauge flintlock shotgun. Flintlock because black powder, including ffff for priming, can be made, and bullets cast from scrap lead. .58 caliber rifle and pistol for bullet interchangeability. Any good quality brand for availability, quality, and cost. .32 for small game, 12 gauge for maximum power. Loading supplies for 1,000 shots each caliber for each gun.

While rifled arms firing ball or mini-balls, or other solid projectiles tend to have the most accuracy, I believe there is a place for flintlock smoothbore weapons other than shotguns, too. Pistols as well as long guns. I will probably go with 20-gauge for all of them.

Long guns, probably around 32” straight barrel, and 24” blunderbuss style. Pistols in 4”, 6”, and 10” straight and blunderbuss styles.

14. Archery weapons – When quiet is needed and there are no suppressors for the firearms, archery weapons come into their own. While the high tech ones have some of the same disadvantages of firearms, such as available ammunition (arrows, points, nocks, shafts, and fletching) more primitive designs can be home made and can be effective enough to hunt with and even for defense in some cases.
Bear Carnage Compound Bow using Easton ST Axis Full Metal Jacket Dangerous Game arrows with MUZZY 4 blade broad heads 145gr regular compound bow or a Barnett Predator AVI compound Crossbow using Easton XX75 bolts with MUZZY 4 blade broadhead 145gr for a compound cross bow.

15. Expedient weapons/defenses:
Here creativity becomes the watch word. Most things can be used as a weapon, many that are innocuous enough to not get you in trouble if you carry them. A good hiking staff or walking stick, to a roll of dimes in a fist, to keys held through the fingers, and on and on and on. Any search on the internet for expedient weapons will find all kinds of examples. One particular one that I like is not an offensive weapon. It is pretty much defensive. That is a small, lightly weighted throw net. It can be carried in a pocket ready to deploy, or even in the hand, and with a flick of the arm and wrist, (after lots of practice) it can entangle an aggressor enough, for long enough, to do harm to them if required, or two get away.


16. Sharps:
My sharps selection and why

I do not consider any given sharps item as a do-it-all tool. Some can be multipurpose, but none can do everything well, and often not even passably. So I use and often carry a variety of different tools that have some type of sharpened edge, or in my terminology, Sharps, for different situations.

My Sharps System

Gentleman’s SAK: There are many variations of the small SAK available. The one that I carry daily has a simple blade, small scissors, small screwdriver, and fingernail file. But it also has an LED and an ink pen. It has come in handy several times for those features. Part of my pocket EDC.

Leatherman Micra multi-tool: The Micra is more heavy duty, and has more features than the SAK. I have used it numerous times for a variety of tasks. Part of my pocket EDC.

Leatherman Crater C33 pocket knife: The Crater is a compact liner lock knife that works well for normal, everyday activities. Part of my pocket EDC.

P-51 can opener: This is for emergencies, so I can easily open canned foods that I might find. It is also usable for a few other things, like slicing sheet plastic. Part of my pocket EDC.

Res-Q-Me seatbelt cutter/window breaker: I want this on me so I can break an automobile window in a heat or flood emergency. Part of my pocket EDC.

Redi-edge knife sharpener: Knives are both safer and more effective when kept sharp, thus the pocket sharpener. Part of my pocket EDC.

Folding credit card knife: This is a credit card size unit with a metal blade inside. The plastic of the card folds around and creates a handle for the blade. This is a last ditch tool for survival in case I lose all my other gear. Part of my pocket EDC.

Leatherman Surge multi-tool w/bits: This is one of the larger multi-tools, and is a bit heavy. But it is highly capable, with a wide variety of effective tools, with the four main blades deployable without opening the handles. Useful in both urban and wilderness areas. It is part of my field EDC, in a belt pouch. (A good smaller alternative, w/o the bit option, is the Leatherman Rebar.)

Victorinox Work Champ SAK: A highly capable tool for field use and for emergencies. Wood saw, can opener, bottle opener, whistle, and the other normal set of a medium size SAK. It too goes on my belt as part of the field EDC. (There are several good alternatives at any given time as models come and go. Main thing is having a good large blade and a wood saw, with a metal file/saw a very good addition.)

Spyderco C08 Harpy: This is a wicked, smallish folding hawk bill knife with serrated blade. It is an effective defensive knife. It is also my emergency cord, rope, net, seaweed, vine, and other entangling items cutter to free myself if I wind up caught in such a situation.

Cold Steel Oda: The Oda is very similar to the original Randall R-1 fighting/utility knife developed in WW II and purchased privately and carried by many GIs, Sailors, Marines, and Airmen. The Oda is my general use sheath knife, suitable for both defense and utility work. With clip point it can penetrate effectively, and do small tasks. Enough belly for slicing and dicing and skinning game. Carried on either my belt or on LBE when in the field.

CRKT Woods Chogan Tomahawk/Cold Steel Rifleman’s Tomahawk: Another multipurpose tool. Useful for defense, clearing brush, building shelters, cutting wood, splitting wood, used for butchering larger game, breaking rocks, driving stakes, and other impact uses since it has a hammer head. Carried on my belt at times, or on the LBE or on the game cart when in the field.

Sven 21” folding saw: The saw really comes into its own when building shelters and gathering and processing firewood. Much more effective and efficient than an axe or tomahawk/hatchet, the saw collapses into a compact tube.

Cold Steel e-tool: This is a solid wooden handle small shovel. Some might not consider it a sharps, but even if the edges are not made razor sharp, it is still effective for far more than just digging cat holes and defensive positions. When an axe or tomahawk or machete is not available it will do to clear brush and even cut small saplings. Not to mention it is a highly effective defensive weapon. Can also be used as a fry pan or griddle over the fire, if careful. Carried on the pack or game cart when in the field.

Cold Steel 24” Latin machete: Longer than the majority of machetes, the Latin style works well for handling many field tasks. It is not a tree feller, or firewood splitter, but it effective in clearing brush and smaller saplings. And is a wicked short sword. (The Cold Steel 24” Cutlass machete is another good one.)

Cold Steel Medium Voyager clip point folder: This is an alternative EDC pocket carry knife when in the field. It is bigger than I like for dress clothing, but does well in the field. Sometimes I carry it in my pocket, other times in a belt sheath. A general use knife for field and kitchen duty. It is also the knife in my medium sized stainless steel tin survival kit.

Ontario Knife Company OKC-3S bayonet: Another sharps with the same blade style of the Randall R-1. It is the current Marine issue bayonet/fighting knife/utility knife. And for the same reasons the R-1 was so successful. A clip point that makes penetration easy, enough belly for slicing and skinning game, large enough to use to do light chopping. A short serrated section on the base of the blade provides a means to cut cordage. When used as a bayonet on my PTR-91 or Remington 11-87, I have a very intimidating tool for controlling situations that do not call for shooting. This is the core of my ‘survival’ sharps. It is the last item I would give up, since it fills the major needs of many disaster and survival situations. Usually on my thigh or LBE when in the field.

Dura-worx mini planting tool: Essentially a small pick mattock, this tool is highly effective in digging cat holes, defensive positions, drainage trenches, and other digging uses in hard and clay ground where a shovel just will not do by itself. More awkward than a tomahawk, it is still an effective defensive weapon. On the game cart. (There are now some similar tools available from various sources.)

Iltis Oxhead double bit felling axe: This double bit axe has many advantages over single bit axes. It is a felling axe, so one edge is sharped to do the felling, with the other edge set up to do the limbing. Much better than a tomahawk or hatchet for heavier work and for lighter work done for longer periods of time. On the game cart.

Pocket chainsaw: Another useful tool. Smaller and lighter than an axe, but much more effective than the saws on the SAKs and multi-tools. More compact and easier to carry than the Sven, it will fit in medium size emergency/survival kits. It provides a huge advantage in survival situation to construct shelters and gather firewood. In a couple of different medium size survival kits.

Skatchet: This is a field tool/survival tool. It is a small hatchet head, with a coarse threaded eye into which one can thread a handle made from a branch or broomstick. A bit heavy for a backpack survival kit, it can easily be carried in a car kit, or on a game cart to replace a tomahawk or hatchet.

Wyoming knife: This specialized field butchering tool makes dressing game in the field, especially medium to large game, much easier, less fatiguing, more efficient, safer, and less likely to puncture internal organs of the game when slitting the animal open, and skinning it. I keep one in my hunting pack, with a spare blade.

Benchmade Model 5 Rescue hook/gutting hook: This tool is more for rescue work, slicing seat belts or other entanglements than it is for gutting game. But it will work for both. I do not carry mine often, but I do add it to the gear when going on longer field trips.

Pick-of-Life Ice Escape Picks: These are a set of handles with short spikes, connected with a lanyard. Carried on the outside of winter clothing when one is going to be around water, they are one of the few ways to get out of the water after going through the ice. The picks allow a person to get traction on the ice to pull through the ice, or get back on top of it.

As part of my tools and hardware kit, I keep (or intend to get) a Leatherman Crunch multi-tool, Leatherman Supertool 300 multi-tool, Victorinox Swiss Champ SAK, and a glass cutter. Between these multi-tools and SAK, in addition to the Surge and Survivor, I can work on most of my gear, and create things in the field and around town when I need to.

There are a few sharps I would like to add. They are more for fairly specific situations, and would not be used in everyday activities.

Tek-tite Tekna Ocean Edge arm knife: For diving and for unobtrusive carry under a long sleeve shirt in the PAW.

Cold Steel Counter Tac II boot knife: Another option for unobtrusive carry. Pretty much a PAW option.

Randall R-12 Raymond Thorpe 13" bowie knife: Another special purpose sharps tool. I would like to have one for use in the PAW, in deep wilderness situations where carrying several of the larger sharps tools would not be doable.

Cold Steel 1860 heavy cavalry saber: For those situations in the PAW when a firearm is not available or when something less immediately lethal than a firearm is needed, when one is not facing firearms. It can also be a tool of intimidation in many situations, as well as a deadly weapon when needed. It will take training to become proficient.

And for medium and large game hunting without firearms or snares/traps, I would like to have a set of spears. Some of the options: Cold Steel Boar Spear, Cold Steel Lance Point Spear, Cold Steel Classic Leaf Shape Spear, Cold Steel European Spear.

And when it comes to hollow handle survival knives I am partial to these three: Tek-tite Tekna Wilderness Edge, United Cutlery UC212 Bushmaster, and the Schrade SCHF1 Survival Knife.

The Wilderness Edge has removable scales, rather than a hollow handle, making it very strong.

The SCHF1 is a clone of the Reeves knife machined from a solid bar of stock. The handle is hollow, but there is no joint in the knife.

The Bushmaster is a copy of the Brewer survival knife. Now, while it does have a pinned tang, if one looks closely, it is obvious that the tang goes much deeper up into the handle than on other hollow handle knives. Definitely not as strong as a the Wilderness Edge or the SCHF1, as long as one does not pry with the knife it should be fine, and does have quite a few features the others to not. I hope to get both the Wilderness Edge and the Bushmaster to build survival kits around.

Other parts of the sharps system are other knife sharpeners in addition to the Redi-Edge pocket sharpener. These include a couple more variations of the Redi-edge, a bastard cut mill file, Lansky Blademedic sharpener, Eze-Lap paddle diamond sharpener set, and a Lansky table sharpener kit.

I just want to point out that the above list contains items I use, or would like to have, but I do not carry all of them all of the time (or ever, actually), but choose what to have on/with me depending on the situations I may be facing at any given point in time.

I certainly do not NEED everything that I do often carry/have with me, but when I can, I do have them. When it comes right down to it, with the OKC-3S, the CRKT Chogan, and the Surge multi-tool, I could make it okay for most things. And if I could only take one into the field, it would be the OKC-3S.

Just my opinion.
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Old 01-08-2018, 04:20 PM
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We can all sit here and try and explain why the one we have is the best, because we say it's the best, but all that does is validate half the population and tick off the other half.
Well, that is what the OP is asking for. The sales pitch for guns, by people who like those guns ... to counterbalance what you see more here, nitpicks about guns that the person posting didn't buy.
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Old 01-08-2018, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoTree View Post
When people post a preference be it semi-auto vs. revolver or make vs. make or model vs corresponding models, seldom does anyone make the case as to why. I mostly assume it is because that is the one they own.

People are more clear when they do not like a particular gun. They have had a problem and this gives us all a heads up.

I would like to see post below with objective reasons why you prefer one or more guns.
CZ75 9mm:
It was my first handgun but I like the heft of it, 16+1, points great and is "the standard" for Euro NATO countries like the Beretta is for us. All steel so you can use it as a melee weapon if needed lol.

Shield 9mm:
Looking for a smaller CCW package than the CZ, for warmer weather. Shot and handled better than the G43.


Eventually I plan on setting up a system like Nomad has. Makes it a lot easier to set up parts/mags/accessories.
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Old 01-08-2018, 05:43 PM
justin22885 justin22885 is offline
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[quote=RedRebel2016;17253090]
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Originally Posted by justin22885 View Post
i prefer two handguns.. one is my CZ 75 SP01.. i prefer it because its about the only steel frame double stack 9mm still produced, has a reputation for quality, reliability, and accuracy, and the SP01 version with the rail lets me mount a light for home defense

the makarov PM i use for EDC is preferred because its probably the most reliable handgun currently in existence while delivering a cartridge more than adequate for defense while still being compact and light enough to carry daily, the straight blowback will be less prone to certain issues recoil operated pistols have, and overall greatly simplifies the design into something that in all likeliness will last forever

[/QUOTE

It's not my EDC, but I too love my Makarov PM for its reliability and accuracy.

The CZ75 Compact is on my shopping/trade for list too.
i am not sure how much use a makarov would get from me post shtf where id be carrying most likely a rifle, or at the very least concealment would no longer be such a concern (or is it?) who knows, but 9x18 isnt a caliber i stockpile and the only way to do so inexpensively would be a very labor intensive task of cutting down, sizing, deburring, etc 9x19 brass and reloading and even then im imagining itd cost more than just buying 9x19mm
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