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Old 07-25-2017, 07:06 AM
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If the car has a vacuum modulator on the transmission, the diaphragm can break, allowing the vacuum to suck tranny fluid into the carburetor.
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Old 07-25-2017, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Israel Putnam View Post
Also, a catalytic converter? Rip that thing off of there, I cannot believe it even has one.
Unless it's required by your state of course...


These old cars need attention unlike to newer computer controlled ones, with an old car you are the computer.
The cat threw me off too. When I first purchased the car it had been sitting for a while, so the stalling I assumed to be bad gas. One day it was flooded, so a little throttle was needed to get her started, this is when I discovered it had a cat. Black crap coming out of the exhaust onto my driveway is what led me to checking for one, and sure enough it was clogged, now she starts much much better and no more black soot

As far as me being the computer, this is something entirely new to me and one of the reasons I bought the car. On my other, modern cars I can pinpoint problems without DTC's, but the technology on my '67 is entirely different. Thank you all for your input
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Old 09-27-2017, 06:55 PM
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Hi,thanks to everyone helping on here.My problem is a 98 ranger xlt with 4.0. 2 problems. first problem is a p1151 code,as well as misfire on 3,4,5,6 cylinder.Plugs and wires fixed the misfire.The mass air flow test ok as well as the throttle position sensor.I have heard you can switch the upstream and downstream o2 sensors and see if the code follows the sensor.A lot of work and maybe break the getting them out.Is there a a way to test the sensor?ohm them out check voltage.Cant seem to find that info.
Also have a bad vibration in the front end originally at 45mph.Found the rod from the torsion bar to the frame? broke so replaced those,still no luck.Read on a ranger forum that air was in the power steering,shocked me but sure enough bled that system,so now I can get to around 63 then it shakes like crazy.two front tires were replaced with,while not new were 80%. front end seem tight with no play.But what do I know on cars so hoping someone has some ideas.
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Old 09-27-2017, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rob_clement View Post
Hi,thanks to everyone helping on here.My problem is a 98 ranger xlt with 4.0. 2 problems. first problem is a p1151 code,as well as misfire on 3,4,5,6 cylinder.Plugs and wires fixed the misfire.The mass air flow test ok as well as the throttle position sensor.I have heard you can switch the upstream and downstream o2 sensors and see if the code follows the sensor.A lot of work and maybe break the getting them out.Is there a a way to test the sensor?ohm them out check voltage.Cant seem to find that info.
Also have a bad vibration in the front end originally at 45mph.Found the rod from the torsion bar to the frame? broke so replaced those,still no luck.Read on a ranger forum that air was in the power steering,shocked me but sure enough bled that system,so now I can get to around 63 then it shakes like crazy.two front tires were replaced with,while not new were 80%. front end seem tight with no play.But what do I know on cars so hoping someone has some ideas.
Getting tires balances properly is hit and miss sometimes. I would stop by a good tire shop and have them rebalance the tires. (I use a Sam's club in Houston that does a good job.) I had just bought 2 new tires from Firestone and firestone balanced them and they were off a mile!
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:33 PM
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For years now I wanted to switch to a 12 volt fuel pump on my 79' jeep. The reason is that it only gets used 2 or 3 times a week (as do my other vechicles) and the fuel evaporates from the carb making it take longer to start up. An electric pump would refill the carb befor cranking it over. Well, I had to do the mod yesterday because the engine driven fuel pump died. I've had a pump on hand for this mod so in that respect I was prepaired. What I had'nt considered was the old pump failing as I was going uphill on a curve with very little road shoulder on a busy two lane highway. Halfway through the job I thought it could be worst "it could be raining" (Marty Felman Young Frankinstine), and a few minutes later it started raining.
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Old 04-02-2018, 11:24 AM
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I have an 08 GMC Sierra extended cab (with the small back doors not the crew cab 4dr)
My problem is the small back doors dont stay open in the 90 degree position. they stay fine at 180 degrees. It seems like I should be able to adjust or replace something on the hinge mechanism to make it stay. I'm tired of getting hit in the back of the head by the door. Any help folks??
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:22 PM
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Bungee cord. Is what I do on my old van.
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Old 04-02-2018, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzardB View Post
For years now I wanted to switch to a 12 volt fuel pump on my 79' jeep. The reason is that it only gets used 2 or 3 times a week (as do my other vechicles) and the fuel evaporates from the carb making it take longer to start up. An electric pump would refill the carb befor cranking it over. Well, I had to do the mod yesterday because the engine driven fuel pump died. I've had a pump on hand for this mod so in that respect I was prepaired. What I had'nt considered was the old pump failing as I was going uphill on a curve with very little road shoulder on a busy two lane highway. Halfway through the job I thought it could be worst "it could be raining" (Marty Felman Young Frankinstine), and a few minutes later it started raining.
Just keep in mind that electric fuel pumps push a lot better than they pull--just mentioning because a roadside fix seems more like an under-hood install in the flex line rather than tying it inline on the hard line low near the tank where it should be. Pulling fuel that far from the tank upward will likely cause it to fail prematurely.
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Old 12-22-2018, 01:40 PM
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2009 Chevrolet Silverado 5.3l with 150k miles.

I got a p2135 code on the way home a couple nights ago that caused reduced engine power. I had the same issue two years ago and had found the bulletin indicating that it's likely not the throttle position sensor, but the throttle body. I cleaned the throttle body and plate last time and all was good.

Today, I cleaned the throttle body and plate, plus put in a new air filter and cleaned the mass air flow sensor just by spraying with MAF sensor cleaner, not touching anything.

My p213 code is now gone, but I'm getting p0102 and p0113 codes, both MAF sensor related. The truck starts okay, but only stays running for 10 seconds before shutting down. Every seven or eight times trying to start it will stay running and idle well, but it seems as though that coincides with the times that I floor the gas pedal when turning the key.

Once started I have left it running for over an hour, hoping it's just a "relearn" thing. It responds the same way when I try to restart it.

Any thoughts?

Last edited by Ironic; 12-22-2018 at 01:47 PM.. Reason: Edited for clarity
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Old 12-22-2018, 01:48 PM
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Check to.make.sure there isn't a loose wire in the MAF and/or TPS?
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Old 12-22-2018, 01:51 PM
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I'm such a dumbass. I had tucked the MAF connecting wires out of the way and neglected to reconnect them.
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Old 06-02-2019, 07:29 PM
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I've got a 2010 Chevy Colorado WT with an I5 engine. A little while ago it started flooding/hard starting after refueling and would do fine until the next fill up. I rarely drive it so it took me a little while to realize it was a reoccurring problem. After some Googling, I replaced the canister purge solenoid and figured problem solved. And, like I said, I don't drive it much so it took a while to run a tank of gas out of it and lo and behold it's still doing the same thing - I fill up the tank, try to start it, the engine spins a bit and finally starts but idles real rough for a minute, rights itself and no issues til the next fill up. More Googling, some folks say the charcoal canister is stopped up or the canister vent solenoid could be the problem. I removed everything today and I really don't know what I'm looking for diagnosis wise, but some very, very fine, light gray powder (doesn't look like the tan dust/dirt we have around here) came out of the canister vent solenoid so I took the top off and there was more of the same inside. Does that come from the charcoal canister? Is it normal? Anyway, I figured I'd ask for advice before I start replacing stuff like usual since the canister cost about $150. Thanks!

ETA: I just tried this, but didn't get nearly as much dust out of it... just enough for my third shower today:
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Old 07-30-2019, 02:00 PM
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Looks like Reed can't accept any more messages, so I'm posting here:

In my 2005 Chevy Express van, the radio does not turn off when I turn off the van, remove the key, and open the door. There is also no door chime if I leave the keys in the ignition with the engine off. The radio does turn off when I open another door, so the van is not sensing that the driver door has been opened.

I've poked around online and found at least 1 potential cause for this:
  • a broken wire at the flex joint between the door and the body (in the rubber accordion boot).
  • bad door latch/module

The door latch/module is not one I find a ton of info on and is only something I suspect based on past experience. Does anyone know if there are electronic bits in there (I have power door locks) that could fail and cause this? I had the door latch module on my VW go bad, and it caused similar problems. There is no physical plunger switch or contacts that I can see on the driver door, so however the van detects that the door is open vs. closed must be in the latch, but I'm only guessing.

Thanks for any help!
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by zuren View Post
Looks like Reed can't accept any more messages, so I'm posting here:

In my 2005 Chevy Express van, the radio does not turn off when I turn off the van, remove the key, and open the door. There is also no door chime if I leave the keys in the ignition with the engine off. The radio does turn off when I open another door, so the van is not sensing that the driver door has been opened.

I've poked around online and found at least 1 potential cause for this:
  • a broken wire at the flex joint between the door and the body (in the rubber accordion boot).
  • bad door latch/module

The door latch/module is not one I find a ton of info on and is only something I suspect based on past experience. Does anyone know if there are electronic bits in there (I have power door locks) that could fail and cause this? I had the door latch module on my VW go bad, and it caused similar problems. There is no physical plunger switch or contacts that I can see on the driver door, so however the van detects that the door is open vs. closed must be in the latch, but I'm only guessing.

Thanks for any help!
That screams bad door switch. On a lot of the newer stuff in it's on the hinge side. get a wiring diagram follow it and just connect the wires manually, should go away.
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:30 AM
TwistedWrench TwistedWrench is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob_clement View Post
Hi,thanks to everyone helping on here.My problem is a 98 ranger xlt with 4.0. 2 problems. first problem is a p1151 code,as well as misfire on 3,4,5,6 cylinder.Plugs and wires fixed the misfire.The mass air flow test ok as well as the throttle position sensor.I have heard you can switch the upstream and downstream o2 sensors and see if the code follows the sensor.A lot of work and maybe break the getting them out.Is there a a way to test the sensor?ohm them out check voltage.Cant seem to find that info.
Also have a bad vibration in the front end originally at 45mph.Found the rod from the torsion bar to the frame? broke so replaced those,still no luck.Read on a ranger forum that air was in the power steering,shocked me but sure enough bled that system,so now I can get to around 63 then it shakes like crazy.two front tires were replaced with,while not new were 80%. front end seem tight with no play.But what do I know on cars so hoping someone has some ideas.
It's probably a bad 02 sensor. Especially with the age.

1. Monitor the output of the #21 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) with the engine running to determine if the sensor will produce a rich output value of 800 millivolts (mV) or more when revving the engine throttle up and down.

2. If the #21 HO2S does not react even though the #11 sensor does, force the engine rich with added fuel such as carburetor cleaner and look for the sensor reading to react and produce a reading of 900 mV or more. If the sensor still does not react, disconnect the sensor and connect a DVOM between the Black (BK) wire and the Grey (GY) wire of the O2 sensor pigtail connector leaving the harness disconnected. Force the engine rich with the carburetor cleaner and monitor the output.

3. If the HO2S reading does not even react on the DVOM to the enrichment of the engine with the harness disconnected from the sensor, replacement of the HO2S will be necessary.

4. If the sensor reacts as it should when it is disconnected from the harness connector, check the HO2S signal wire running between the sensor and PCM connections for an open circuit or short to ground and address the circuit as needed.

5. If the sensor reacts on the scan tool when the engine was initially forced rich, check for an actual issue that would cause the engine to run lean. This could be the result of a vacuum leak or general misfire on the drivers side of the engine. The misfire could be the result of a spark plug, weak coil, plug wire, fuel injector, etc.
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:35 AM
TwistedWrench TwistedWrench is offline
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Originally Posted by Ironic View Post
2009 Chevrolet Silverado 5.3l with 150k miles.

I got a p2135 code on the way home a couple nights ago that caused reduced engine power. I had the same issue two years ago and had found the bulletin indicating that it's likely not the throttle position sensor, but the throttle body. I cleaned the throttle body and plate last time and all was good.

Today, I cleaned the throttle body and plate, plus put in a new air filter and cleaned the mass air flow sensor just by spraying with MAF sensor cleaner, not touching anything.

My p213 code is now gone, but I'm getting p0102 and p0113 codes, both MAF sensor related. The truck starts okay, but only stays running for 10 seconds before shutting down. Every seven or eight times trying to start it will stay running and idle well, but it seems as though that coincides with the times that I floor the gas pedal when turning the key.

Once started I have left it running for over an hour, hoping it's just a "relearn" thing. It responds the same way when I try to restart it.

Any thoughts?
replace the whole TB. Never had a single successful case when just replacing a single part of it. p0113 and p102 can set if you turn on the key and it's not connected.
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OliverR. View Post
Freind of mine has a newish (2010 I think) bmw 7 series w a twin turbo v8.

He let it idle sitting in a steep driveway (facing uphill) for about 1-2 min and got back in it and the car stalled.

It ended up starving for fuel and wiped both of the high pressure (mechanical) fuel pumps out.

So be careful with running out of fuel if your car is direct injected.
Diesel guys have known this for years. Do Not run DRY!. It will kill the HP pumps. They depend on the fuel for lube and cooling.
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