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DIY Load Bearing Chest Rig

28K views 31 replies 18 participants last post by  prep101 
#1 ·
So my next "big" project to work on is a load bearing chest rig. I'm aiming to make it similar to the MOLLE vest, since that's what many of my pouches are MOLLE pouches picked up at thrift stores here and there. However, for me to successfully make something, I need to know why each part is included. My main question is about the belt loops around the bottom. I've never actually seen one worn properly, so I can only speculate that the belt loops are to be used in conjunction with the pants' belt loops. But what purpose does this serve? Any insight is deeply appreciated.

Also (random question), I've heard it pronounced both ways (mole and Molly). Which way do you say it? I usually say mole.
 
#2 ·
Well the spirit of truth is also called councelor so....it just may mean that where I need certain counseling, u may not.
I certainly did NOT mean to imply you were doing anything wrong. My apologies
So my next "big" project to work on is a load bearing chest rig. I'm aiming to make it similar to the MOLLE vest, since that's what many of my pouches are MOLLE pouches picked up at thrift stores here and there. However, for me to successfully make something, I need to know why each part is included. My main question is about the belt loops around the bottom. I've never actually seen one worn properly, so I can only speculate that the belt loops are to be used in conjunction with the pants' belt loops. But what purpose does this serve? Any insight is deeply appreciated.

Also (random question), I've heard it pronounced both ways (mole and Molly). Which way do you say it? I usually say mole.
I use this type of rig.

I like it because if I happen to come out of the boat in a lake of for some reason have to dive somewhere I wont lose it.

I can also wear it concealed under my Columbia.

The loops around the bottom are for connecting something called a battle belt. Its a very nice addition and will give you more MOLLE (sounds like molly) straps for adding more pouches. Think of a big padded belt with the ability to put some very nice pouches on it.

You will also need a riggers belt that inserts inside the battle belt and this is what holds it all together.

Here are some links, good luck in your quest.

http://www.phoenix-tactical.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=100

http://www.vtarmynavy.com/battle-belt.htm

Check around for better prices and sales.
 
#3 ·
I say Molly

The belt loops on a vest or for an equipment belt, now also usually MOLLE. It's off the belt where you hang various other pouches that aren't on the vest itself.


There are some non-MOLLE vests and with a MOLLE belt they allow one to add the Pouches that aren't on the dedicated vest.

At least, that is my belief and the way I use mine.
 
#5 ·
Okay, I have a pattern for the vest, and I've modified it to fit what I want for this project. However, I am not good at picking colors of fabric and coordinating them. I want to make the vest out of duck cloth, because I like the look and the strength. However, my local Joanne's only has khaki, olive, or white. The olive is more of a forest, and the khaki is sort of a mix between olive and khaki. In terms of nylon webbing, they have black and olive. I've narrowed the options between using the white duck, dyeing it black, and then using the black webbing, or the khaki duck and olive webbing, which would make a contrast.

Which would be preferable to you? Black on black, or olive on khaki?
 
#7 ·
@PrimalPriest- I'm doing it partly for the sake of doing it (my college classes really aren't that time consuming, leaving ungodly amounts of free time), and partly because, post-SHTF, such items will be a valuable skill to know how to make and repair. Good for your BOL and great for bartering.

To all, if you stay tuned, I'll try my best to post pictures and updates on the project, as I would love to share this knowledge, and I would love to get insight from others.
 
#9 ·
@FarmGirl- I bought a Simplicity pattern for a vest (I'll have to dig through the clutter later to find the exact number). However, because my personal goal for this vest is one that can easily fit different body shapes, I made the front and back solid pieces, and replaced the side panels with 2-3 buckles (like the kind you find on backpacks). This way, the same vest that fits me can, with a couple of adjustments, fit my little sister, or whoever. With limited resources, I want to find ways to make things, one size fits all.

I also rounded out the front neck area to allow for more webbing. I'm considering adding length to the shoulder area, to allow for more space for putting the vest on.
 
#10 ·
Instead of buckles you might wish to go with lacing using paracord.

While the nylon strapping will hold, the buckles can crack and fail at a bad time.

Also, a vest that fits a man, will not fit most females correctly even with the sides being adjustable like that.
 
#13 ·
I call it Molly............she replaced Alice. :)

Are you designing your chest rig as a stand-alone or part of a system?? Don't forget these considerations while designing your chest rig.

I have an FLC Vest configured as a chest rig. I had to drop the idea of a warbelt because of the Molle rucksack's kidney belt. If I wanted a warbelt, I had to find a way to locate it below the rucksack's kidney belt AND attach it to the chest rig for support. I couldn't settle on a method of attaching the warbelt to the chest rig.

Good Luck, I'm interested in your solution.

Mark
 
#16 ·
My experience with paracord has not left me impressed. The shoelaces broke on my boots and I had some 550 laying around so I used that as new laces. After a few weeks, the cord started getting clumps of nylon on the outside, because it was deteriorating under the stress. Maybe I got a bad batch of it, but I wouldnt want that to happen on the vest, and have it break when you need it the most, and all the paracord is being used for other things.

Also, Im not entirely sure what you mean by using the pockets would be interesting. All the pockets I have are either a buckle or a button, which could be opened with one hand and puts no pressure on the vest. The only conceivable problem would be if you have to dig way down into the pocket for something, in which case we have a bigger problem than just the vest, we have soneone that doesnt know how to pack properly.

Perhaps we should both make a vest how we want. I dont like the idea of lacing, and you dont like the idea of buckles. So we are at an impasse.
 
#17 ·
I find that easy to believe (about the paracord) if you were using any form of commercial paracord. I find it highly unlikely for that to happen to 550 cord, the stuff the military actually uses. If you can, try to get some real 550 cord next time, it is the real deal, won't let you down.
 
#18 ·
I used a picture of the chinese AK47 chest rig, scaled to what I though was about right and plotted on large format printer, then used that for a rough pattern on some canvas..

Cut it out folded it at the seams and ironed it.. used tacky glue to glue it all together, riveted the corners and used a stitching awl to stitch over the glued seams..

riveted leather tabs, to canvas, added D-rings (also riveted) using cheap harness leather tabs placed in locations similar to the Chi-Com rig straps..used 1" webbing and plastic connectors to complete.. changed the upper neck strap for snaps to connect to existing D-rings on my load-bearing suspenders,, died the whole shootin' match with good old black Rit dye.. dulled shiny rivets with permanent marker..

Viola!! spent about 5 hours making something I could'a bought for $10... story of my life... ;)
 
#22 ·
I will definitely be following this thread as I have a desire to make my own MOLLE rig as well. I'd like to see how you manage with all this. In my opinion these things are great. Saw multiple stories where people could use these for SHTF situations as well as using them for hiking/camping. Short trips for the most part unless you add a large butt pack to the rig for more storage. Being that I'm looking into this more for hiking then SHTF and I would most likely be carrying a hammock instead of tent and sleeping bag I think it would be much more versatile then a backpack. Good luck and please keep us up to date with info and pics!
 
#23 ·
Hey, sorry it's been so long since I posted on here. It's taken longer than expected to get the fabric, debating which color to get, but mostly, to get my butt in gear on getting it done.

Anyways, here's the first picture. I know it's not much, but it will hopefully become an amazing something soon.

I went with a natural color of duck cloth, because I am still undecided as to what color I should go for. I'm thinking black, but the back of my mind keeps shouting green.

If you want to do it exactly as I did, I am using the Simplicity pattern 2743, view A, with major modifications. The length seemed a little long, which is ideal for a sweater vest, but not for a MOLLE vest, as the extra length would make it difficult to utilize a battle belt or leg rigging. So I took up the bottom 2 1/2 inches. Also, the pattern intends for the front panel to be divided into two, with a zipper in the middle. This doesn't fit our purposes, so I just cut it on the fold like the back panel. I also cut two of both panels for extra strength and durability.

Hopefully I will be more frequent in my posts, and get this done in a few days. I still need to find enough webbing for it, but I couldn't calculate it until I knew what the dimensions of the area were.
 

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#24 ·
Here is my website. I try and post some how to's from time to time. Maybe this might help you:

Sewing Molle: http://www.tacticaladventuregear.com/2010/12/tips-for-sewing-molle-pattern.html

Sewing Velcro Patterns: http://www.tacticaladventuregear.com/2010/12/sewing-velcro-panels-easy-way.html

Sewing Zippers: http://www.tacticaladventuregear.com/2011/01/zippers-heres-no-brainer-way.html

Carrying Handles: http://www.tacticaladventuregear.com/2011/02/carrying-handles-version-10.html


There's a bunch more on the site I just don't have time to post them all. Browse thru and get some ideas. There is also some tabs at the top on how to get started in making your own gear. I have only been stitching for a year or so but I learned everything pretty much on my own. I don't use any patterns it's all just ideas out of my head. Good luck with your project. If I can be of help let me know.

CC
 
#25 ·
So I finished up the vest as much as I could. Hopefully on my next paycheck I can buy what I need to finish it up.

On the first picture, you'll notice that I altered the neck area for the front panels. After pinning the pieces together and trying it on, I felt like the neck was too small to comfortably slip in and out of, so I brought the center of the collar front down by 1.5" and then angled it up to the original sides of the collar.

To make the webbing strands, I cut the strands an inch longer than I intended, so that I could turn under a half inch on each side. To prevent fraying while cutting and stitching, I wrapped each cut area (prior to cutting) in scotch tape. Because of my school's policies, I couldn't use a lighter to melt the nylon.

Then I measured where the webbing would go. I goofed on the cutting and measuring, so there is some extra left on the left side (if you're wearing the vest, it would be the right side). The first source I went to said PALS was 1" x 1.25". After looking in several other places, I realized that it is in fact 1" x 1.5". In other words, between each strand of 1" webbing, there is a gap of 1". And each strand of webbing is perpendicularly anchored to the vest every 1.5". As a side note, when you start doing the anchoring, pin the nylon on both sides of the stitch line, as it has a tendency to shift. I had to redo several stitches because the nylon would shift.

Because the duck cloth was starting to fray a lot, I did a quick zigzag stitch on each side to hold it until I could finish the edges. I then sewed the front panels together and the back panels together, which I then sewed together along the shoulders, matching the marks and edges. I then pressed the seam allowances out and top stitched them.

Because I didn't have bias tape available, I used some leftover ribbon I had from a previous project to finish off the edges, which seems to work, except that is a little shiny.

I then decided to dye it black, but that didn't work as planned. During the wash, much of the dye washed out of the fabric, leaving it a rather plum color, rather than the charcoal black I was expecting. Again, on my next paycheck, I am hoping to get another bottle and do it again to see if I can change it.

Other than that, I think the vest is coming along nicely.
 

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#28 ·
So my next "big" project to work on is a load bearing chest rig. I'm aiming to make it similar to the MOLLE vest, since that's what many of my pouches are MOLLE pouches picked up at thrift stores here and there. However, for me to successfully make something, I need to know why each part is included. My main question is about the belt loops around the bottom. I've never actually seen one worn properly, so I can only speculate that the belt loops are to be used in conjunction with the pants' belt loops. But what purpose does this serve? Any insight is deeply appreciated.

Also (random question), I've heard it pronounced both ways (mole and Molly). Which way do you say it? I usually say mole.

Molly like the female name........

The belt loops at bottom are for attaching to the pistol belt, but could be used for the pants belt. The purpose would be to provide a solid platform for using the drag handle on the back and to allow you to attach some gear to your belt off the vest.

If you want some ideas from an experience point of view feel free to ask.
 
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