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Old 12-01-2019, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by MattB4 View Post
The float only can shut it off it it snaps up properly at the end of the fill cycle. Which requires a adequate flow of water. I don't care if you do not wish to accept it. It is simply a fact of how they work.

All those homes with leaking fill valves should be a clue.
Yeah, that's not how they work.
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Old 12-01-2019, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justme11 View Post
Yeah, that's not how they work.
I will trust the experts on how they work. They recommend a minimum pressure to function. You however can trust whatever you want.
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Old 12-01-2019, 10:49 AM
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https://www.practicaldiy.com/plumbin...all_valves.php
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Old 12-01-2019, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Justme11 View Post
While describing the type of thing in general your link does not go into detail. So you proved nothing by posting it. However there is no point in arguing. If you can shut the flow of your water going to your toilet to a trickle and it works without problems than you have a great toilet.

Considering all the things in the design and engineering to make a toilet fill and flush properly is beyond the scope of the thread.
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Old 12-01-2019, 09:22 PM
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A friend who was too lazy to pull his well pump wanted to connect his house temporarily to a water tank. I installed a transfer pump just below the tank outlet that was operated by a switch that was plugged into an outlet in his bathroom. The pump's GPH wasn't very high, but when the pump pressurized the 50' hose that connected the tank to his watercock, the hose became an additional accumulator to the main pressurized one that helped to maintain a fairly decent flow rate over short periods. When we finally pulled the pump, we found that the impeller was jammed with mineral buildup, so when the pump tried to start it blew the start cap. We put in the new pump, but after chipping away the buildup and putting in another start cap the old pump worked fine. Best part was that one of the local construction rental shops rented us a pump puller that had a wheel powered by an electric motor that clamped onto the pipe and pulled it out of the hole so the job only took a couple hours on a Saturday.
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Old 12-02-2019, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williammandella View Post
A friend who was too lazy to pull his well pump wanted to connect his house temporarily to a water tank. I installed a transfer pump just below the tank outlet that was operated by a switch that was plugged into an outlet in his bathroom. The pump's GPH wasn't very high, but when the pump pressurized the 50' hose that connected the tank to his watercock, the hose became an additional accumulator to the main pressurized one that helped to maintain a fairly decent flow rate over short periods. When we finally pulled the pump, we found that the impeller was jammed with mineral buildup, so when the pump tried to start it blew the start cap. We put in the new pump, but after chipping away the buildup and putting in another start cap the old pump worked fine. Best part was that one of the local construction rental shops rented us a pump puller that had a wheel powered by an electric motor that clamped onto the pipe and pulled it out of the hole so the job only took a couple hours on a Saturday.
We call that a tractor :-). Jack up the rear end so the tires are off the ground. Our pump is 80’deep, water is 20’ deep, so pump is 1/2 hp, and not a ton of stages. You still have to pull on the pipe but the tire does most of the work.
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Old 12-02-2019, 01:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by country_boy View Post
We call that a tractor :-). Jack up the rear end so the tires are off the ground. Our pump is 80’deep, water is 20’ deep, so pump is 1/2 hp, and not a ton of stages. You still have to pull on the pipe but the tire does most of the work.
The guy's brother came over to help us. He brought four 2x4s with V notches cut in them. He said we'd clamp the four studs onto the pipe and use them to pull the pump and pipe out of the hole. It was probably ninety degrees with 100% humidity. I like a good workout, but not with horseflies biting me and gnats crawling into my eyes.
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Old 12-02-2019, 05:11 PM
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While it is obvious from the OP this is a case of a separate well supply in the rural area, I hope later readers don't get the idea of trying this if you are on a municipal supply in hopes of having water when the water provider cuts off.

A municipal provider would just flip out over potential backwash contamination and bring lots of hate and punishment.

Service from your own well on your own private property is a completely different situation and trying to be clever by applying these ideas in case of a municipal outage is a very bad idea.

Rural well setups are isolated from other properties and all mistakes that result end up limited to only that property. When Big Brother is taking care of everyone's water needs they get pretty harsh when you get to potentially threatening the neighborhood supply.
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Old 12-02-2019, 05:59 PM
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Something that I haven't seen mentioned yet is that front loaders leak down over time. Obviously some leak a lot faster than others, but they all do it. Provision will need to be made to support the barrel so that it doesn't come crashing to the ground or against the house when the buckets leaks down.
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Old 12-02-2019, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bayouhomestead View Post
we really just need enough to run toilets and even a trickle from the shower is better than nothing. but even is the shower doesnt work we can just use a rag i suppose
Do you have a window in your bathroom that the barrel would be at least a little higher than?
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Old 12-02-2019, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justme11 View Post
Where would you get such a weird idea?
The buoyancy of the float shuts off the water supply.



That's correct. The water valve is opened and closed just by the pressure applied to the lever by the float ball floating on the water as the water level rises and falls.
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Old 12-03-2019, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justme11 View Post
From your source:


Quote:
A low pressure nozzle fitted in a mains water fed, the valve will not close property thus causing water to flow in to the tank/cistern when it should be shut off.

Using a high pressure nozzle in a gravity fed system will cause the tank to fill up very slowly and probably shut the water off below the required level.
There's a proper pressure range for most modern plumbing fixtures.
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Old 12-03-2019, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snyper708 View Post
From your source:




There's a proper pressure range for most modern plumbing fixtures.
Everyone uses the high pressure nozzle, since we all have actual water pressure supplying the house. The article stated that this will result in a slower tank filling process. No duh.

The other case they describe doesn't even have correct spelling and makes no sense.

Good grief you guys will argue about anything.
My house has 5 freakin toilets, and I have repaired and replaced every aspect of them. I'm an engineer. Trust me. If you lift up on the float, the valve shuts. I don't care if there is 5 psig or 60 on the water main.
The valve closes securely when you lift the float.

Now go argue with some clouds.

Here's a little test you can do.
Turn off the water supply to the house.
Open a cold water tap at a sink to dump any line pressure in the house.
Listen to your toilet(s)

The valve will stay closed.
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Old 12-04-2019, 11:09 AM
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I happen to have a new “Fluid Mater Universal Toilet Fill Valve”, 400A that they claim to be the #1 seller.
and I “could not blow air through the valve” at any position.
I hoped to gravity feed my toilet with a rain water storage tank elevated about 3ft above the toilet tank level, but that is not going to work with this valve.
When I remove the old one I will see if I can make it work with a gravity flow.
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Old 12-04-2019, 12:05 PM
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Personally, I'd put in a disconnect at the panel or at the well itself for the pump. At that point, you could add in a generator feed to just power the well. The easiest option is to have some form of backup power (which generators are getting dirt cheap depending on what you need).

For backup water... a 55 gallon drum and a cheap shallow well pump will maintain line pressure.. but still need power to operate the pump.
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Old 12-04-2019, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr4btTahoe View Post
Personally, I'd put in a disconnect at the panel or at the well itself for the pump. At that point, you could add in a generator feed to just power the well. The easiest option is to have some form of backup power (which generators are getting dirt cheap depending on what you need).

For backup water... a 55 gallon drum and a cheap shallow well pump will maintain line pressure.. but still need power to operate the pump.
12V Rv pump and a car battery
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Old 12-04-2019, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justme11 View Post
Everyone uses the high pressure nozzle, since we all have actual water pressure supplying the house. The article stated that this will result in a slower tank filling process. No duh.

The other case they describe doesn't even have correct spelling and makes no sense.

Good grief you guys will argue about anything.
My house has 5 freakin toilets, and I have repaired and replaced every aspect of them. I'm an engineer. Trust me. If you lift up on the float, the valve shuts. I don't care if there is 5 psig or 60 on the water main.
The valve closes securely when you lift the float.

Now go argue with some clouds.

Here's a little test you can do.
Turn off the water supply to the house.
Open a cold water tap at a sink to dump any line pressure in the house.
Listen to your toilet(s)

The valve will stay closed.
You're the one getting emotionally involved over it.
I just quoted something from your own source.
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Old 12-05-2019, 03:46 PM
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When we lived on the desert we built a shop just a little above the house and in the loft we put 3 tanks and a full indicator so I could see when it was full.
I had a tank in my truck and filled it where ever I could and when I got home used a 12 volt air compressor to charge the tank and ran the water hose from the truck tank to any spigot on the house till I saw water coming out the over flow indicator.
It might have been 10' of fall and it was plenty for all our needs.
Even had 2 passive solar water heaters that were more than adequate for the job.
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Old 12-05-2019, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snyper708 View Post
You're the one getting emotionally involved over it.
I just quoted something from your own source.

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Old 12-05-2019, 04:40 PM
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Several years ago when my street was torn out and rebuilt,
the city ran surface pipes and fed each house through
outside faucets.

Worked fine.
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