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Old 07-17-2019, 04:39 PM
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Guess who has motor mounts, and shock towers welded in?





Well, that happy feeling didn't last long... Guess who's brain damage, coupled with the inability to think in hot weather caused him to have the guy weld the motor mounts in the wrong place?





Having a TBI is not fun. I'm always forgetting things, losing things. I took off the rubber isolators and bolts, but to prevent me from losing them, I put them on the bolts... Now the guy shows up to weld, and I position the mounts without the rubber... He leaves... I remember the rubber... the engine sits too high with them, or just right without, but then it's mounted solid. I try to put them in, and the holes don't even line up. I remember from when I had the tub on, I should have room, but I really didn't want it that high anyhow. There is another issue...

The Jeep didn't come with this powertrain combo, and I had used the original trans mount (a new one) just to locate the engine in the frame. This places it in the correct place (front to rear) but a bit too high for good drive line angles.

So now I have a new plan... I have to modify the motor mounts on the engine block. Cut off the flat part on the bottom, and have it welded to the top, lowering them over the rubber isolators. Also, I don't need 4 inches of room between the transfer case and the skidplate, so I plan to have a machine shop remake me one bracket (red arrow) 1.5" shorter.



It's in for now, but it won't be in for good, for a while... I just don't want a complete fabricated solid mounted home made welded in set up like it had in the CJ5 it came out of.

Shock towers came out better. the tops are all perfect.

Rear.


Front.


Only problem here is the lower mounts on the left front are not in line properly, but they can be tweeked easily enough...



Last thing I had him do was a couple of little brackets I found in my scrap pile for my tire carrier. I needed a way to lock it open so it wouldn't swing back, and forth when I was using it. Now I can just open it, and drop a bolt or pin in there to lock it in place. I loved the LOD bumper when I looked at it online, but they didn't have a way to lock it open, and I didn't notice this at the time I ordered it. Problem fixed.



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Old 07-17-2019, 06:04 PM
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One other thing I've noticed that will require attention... the longer YJ springs makes for very tight clearance on the big 20 gal fuel tank I took off the CJ5. I have about 1.5" of rearward movement before the pumpkin gets into the skid plate...




I can't have nothing nice...

This is with the tub on, but nothing in the tub. Those shackles are gonna flex more than that, so I'm gonna have to think of something... I couldn't use the CJ7s fuel tank. Way too rusty. I'm thinking maybe just put a cut out in the front of the skid plate, then a trans tunnel like depression in the front face of the tank about 3 inches deep...
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Old 07-17-2019, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by daddyusmaximus View Post
One other thing I've noticed that will require attention... the longer YJ springs makes for very tight clearance on the big 20 gal fuel tank I took off the CJ5. I have about 1.5" of rearward movement before the pumpkin gets into the skid plate...




I can't have nothing nice...

This is with the tub on, but nothing in the tub. Those shackles are gonna flex more than that, so I'm gonna have to think of something... I couldn't use the CJ7s fuel tank. Way too rusty. I'm thinking maybe just put a cut out in the front of the skid plate, then a trans tunnel like depression in the front face of the tank about 3 inches deep...


Move the axle forward a fuzz??
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Old 07-17-2019, 10:29 PM
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I don't know if you want to turn the CJ into a 2 seater, but you can put the fuel cell where the rear sets very easily. Many do it to open up a lot of clearance over the rocks in the rear. There are some options for custom fuel cells but then again more money. You will really like those YJ leafs when you get everything moving they will completely change the entire ride giving you a ton more articulation. I was trying to brainstorm something for your shaft pinion angle due to the motor mounts. I'm not really sure there is any good solution other than resetting the motor mounts without spending a lot of money on your rear end.
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:15 AM
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Move the axle forward a fuzz??
My spring perches don't have the extra holes to move the axles, but they do have room to drill holes, and the top plates have the holes. That would give me about an inch, and a half.
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:25 AM
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I don't know if you want to turn the CJ into a 2 seater, but you can put the fuel cell where the rear sets very easily. Many do it to open up a lot of clearance over the rocks in the rear. There are some options for custom fuel cells but then again more money. You will really like those YJ leafs when you get everything moving they will completely change the entire ride giving you a ton more articulation. I was trying to brainstorm something for your shaft pinion angle due to the motor mounts. I'm not really sure there is any good solution other than resetting the motor mounts without spending a lot of money on your rear end.
The Jeep will have a single seat. There will be a dog box where the passenger seat goes for my service dog to ride in. Similar in concept to what I had in the old CJ5, but better executed.



The fuel cell, however cannot be brought up into the cabin, as I will be needing that space. We will be living out of the Jeep on our travels.
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Old 07-18-2019, 07:15 AM
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Have you considered a hi-pinion differential? You could probably pick one up for around $1200 but then again more money. In the end you might still need to do more modifications up forwards to accommodate everything. I may be wrong but unless you are able to relocate those motor mounts it's going to be more of a pain than it's worth. In truth I wouldn't begin to know to ensure the drive shaft harmonics would be properly set.

Edit: I was thinking you might look into the older 12 gallon CJ-5 tank instead of the 20 gallon. It might just give you the necessary clearance you need? Without a saddle tank under the drivers seat you might not get the mileage you want but it's easily enough solved by carrying a little extra fuel you would have had on board anyway.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:42 AM
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Thereís no reason you canít run the tank. Move the axle forward a bit then reset your drivetrain mounts to maximize optimum angles for drive shafts.
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:30 AM
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There is a place called 'High Angle Driveline' but I'm not sure if they are currently open. Their building burned to the ground in the Camp Fire but I think they are still in business.

http://highangledriveline.com/
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:00 PM
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Have you considered a hi-pinion differential? You could probably pick one up for around $1200 but then again more money. In the end you might still need to do more modifications up forwards to accommodate everything. I may be wrong but unless you are able to relocate those motor mounts it's going to be more of a pain than it's worth. In truth I wouldn't begin to know to ensure the drive shaft harmonics would be properly set.

Edit: I was thinking you might look into the older 12 gallon CJ-5 tank instead of the 20 gallon. It might just give you the necessary clearance you need? Without a saddle tank under the drivers seat you might not get the mileage you want but it's easily enough solved by carrying a little extra fuel you would have had on board anyway.
New diffs are out of the budget. Way out. New housing means new gears, new shock mounts, (that I just had welded on) new brakes, new whole bunch of stuff... So much other stuff to do.

Not going with no tiny little 12 gallon tank either. I'll be traveling all over the country in this vehicle. A small divot out of a 20 gal tank will still give me maybe 17 gal give or take... Plus I'll be carrying extra fuel with me that just wasn't shown in the other photos..



I would love to look into a saddle tank under the driver's seat. Though that was never a thing in a CJ7 I like the idea of more fuel. They don't have that handi little place to mount an external fuel filler like the CJ5 does.
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Old 07-18-2019, 05:58 PM
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They don't have that handi little place to mount an external fuel filler like the CJ5 does.
If you look right about where the handle of your cane is is a really good and easy spot to mount the fuel filler. If you like I can send you a PM of what I did with mine and how it's mounted. I have a 7 gallon auxiliary tank under the driver seat.
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Old 07-18-2019, 07:28 PM
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If you look right about where the handle of your cane is is a really good and easy spot to mount the fuel filler. If you like I can send you a PM of what I did with mine and how it's mounted. I have a 7 gallon auxiliary tank under the driver seat.


That's the old "donor" Jeep. His current best upnis a CJ7 so no fuel delete recess. It could. Be done, but one would have to be very creative on how they ran a filler.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:49 PM
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That's the old "donor" Jeep. His current best upnis a CJ7 so no fuel delete recess. It could. Be done, but one would have to be very creative on how they ran a filler.
Well color me silly, that's an oops moment! Thanks for pointing that out, I guess I wasn't paying that close of attention this morning when I saw the picture as to which Jeep it was....
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:45 AM
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I have not been spending much quality time with the Jeep as of late. The heat tends to kick my ass as I have had heat exhaustion several times in the past, and heat stroke twice. Also I thought my shoulder wasn't healing well from the surgery, but as it turns out it's my nerve damage from the IED that has been giving me fits. Same result in that my left arm hasn't been much use to me. I was able to correct one problem that I didn't like. The transmission sitting up too high. I designed a very short (half inch) box mount to replace the tall (two inch) zig-zag stock mount and had it welded up at a local machine shop.



A cut out in the side allows me to reach in and hold the center bolt with a wrench to tighten it.




The bolts drop through holes in the opposite sides big enough for the bolt heads. The transfer case sits at a more natural height, though with the SOA lift I will need to trim the skidplate for front driveshaft clearance at full droop.



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