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Old 12-16-2014, 03:04 PM
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Default Grease for barrel nut



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Alright guys, I went to the auto store and got what I thought would be the right product but now I'm doubting myself and just want to double check that I got the right thing for the barrel nut threads when building an upper receiver assembly for an AR-15.

I picked up a 16oz tub of Advance Auto Parts (store brand) Grease. The label reads:

#2 EP Lithium Grease
Formulated for high temperature performance
NLGI grade 2
Perfect for automotive, farm, marine and industrial use


I though i read somewhere to make sure i get something that doesn't have graphite or copper in it, and that normal anti-seize isn't really the right item for the AR. I looked for moly grease and I think i saw some but for some reason this seemed like the best option on the shelf.

Should I go return it and check out the moly greases again or is this fine?
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Old 12-16-2014, 03:07 PM
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This is just a quick google search source: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...hellgrease.php

You want 33MS
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:37 PM
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I use synthetic lithium high temp wheel bearing grease. It's red in color.

Stay away from graphite.
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Old 12-17-2014, 01:23 AM
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Why avoid graphite? Not an AR owner, or even a fan, but as an ex-engineer it would seem that Never-Seize would be ideal.
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Old 12-17-2014, 02:31 AM
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Why avoid graphite? Not an AR owner, or even a fan, but as an ex-engineer it would seem that Never-Seize would be ideal.
It is corrosive.
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Old 12-17-2014, 03:19 AM
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graphite and aluminum are not good neighbors. it will cause corrosion.
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Old 12-18-2014, 02:04 PM
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I use mobil 28, its about the best there is for triggers and such so I keep it in stock all the time.
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:59 PM
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graphite and aluminum are not good neighbors. it will cause corrosion.
So after 40 years of using Never-Seize religiously on all my aluminum cylinder head sparkplugs, all my heads are corroded?

Puhleeze.

Some of my examples would be 1960s dirt bikes that I've owned since the mid '70s. If there were any such problem, I think I'd know by now.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mattmuttsmith View Post
I use synthetic lithium high temp wheel bearing grease. It's red in color.

Stay away from graphite.
Same here.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:14 PM
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So after 40 years of using Never-Seize religiously on all my aluminum cylinder head sparkplugs, all my heads are corroded?

Puhleeze.

Some of my examples would be 1960s dirt bikes that I've owned since the mid '70s. If there were any such problem, I think I'd know by now.
Chemistry doesn't lie. Galvanic corrosion is a potential issue.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:36 PM
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It is corrosive.
carbon isnt corrosive as it doesn't oxidize, that is like saying diamonds are corrosive... graphite is slightly abrasive, but not corrosive.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:37 PM
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Chemistry doesn't lie. Galvanic corrosion is a potential issue.
galvanic reactions are metal on metal when electricity is passed through the two... not carbon on metal
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Old Coach View Post
Why avoid graphite? Not an AR owner, or even a fan, but as an ex-engineer it would seem that Never-Seize would be ideal.
a barrel nut is steel, an AR upper is generally aluminum, anti-seize probably isnt even necessary as they have two different thermal expansion coefficients, i would just alternately cool and heat in order to loosen, but in most cases that wont even be necessary if you try to remove the barrel nut.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:48 PM
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Anti seize is good for one thing, making a freakin mess.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:09 PM
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aluminum, magnesium, and zinc can all experience galvanic corrosion when in contact with graphite.
fyi galvanic corrosion requires an electrolyte and not electricity.
btw who mentioned carbon ?

graphite and firearms dont mix. even stainless steel and graphite are bad when high temps are brought into the equation.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mefunkymxw View Post
carbon isnt corrosive as it doesn't oxidize, that is like saying diamonds are corrosive... graphite is slightly abrasive, but not corrosive.
*sigh*

It facilitates galvanic corrosion of aluminum. Better?
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:56 PM
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Why are you lubricating it ?
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:05 PM
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If you are lubricating the threads chances are you are crushing the aluminum as well under the extra torque being applied.
I would not use loc-tight , however I have found using a gasket sealing compound that does not use a citric solvent ,nor harden, is quite effective both for the heat and being able to remove again . ( I used adhesive M, a OMC /Johnson product, on particularly sensitive fasteners Stainless bolts in brass inserts bedded in fiber glass.)
In this way you could achieve the desired torque with out distorting the aluminum over time. Just a thought .
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Old 12-19-2014, 02:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arleigh View Post
If you are lubricating the threads chances are you are crushing the aluminum as well under the extra torque being applied.
I would not use loc-tight , however I have found using a gasket sealing compound that does not use a citric solvent ,nor harden, is quite effective both for the heat and being able to remove again . ( I used adhesive M, a OMC /Johnson product, on particularly sensitive fasteners Stainless bolts in brass inserts bedded in fiber glass.)
In this way you could achieve the desired torque with out distorting the aluminum over time. Just a thought .
You must have a huge amount of that OMC product. They went out of business ages ago.
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Old 12-19-2014, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
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Why are you lubricating it ?
Because after decades of building them this is what is determined works best. Aeroshell 33MS is the correct mil-spec lubricant for this process. Wet and dry torque values differ, the correct tq values are given wet as the process is wet. Also, it prevents galling.
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