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Old 02-11-2020, 06:02 AM
45 Ohio 45 Ohio is offline
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Default Cap and ball revolver



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I'm thinking if getting a navy Colt replica in .44 Cal. Brass framed 5 inch barrel don't plan on shooting it with Max loads or shooting it a thousand times a week maybe 50 -60 times a year just to be good enough to defend myself with it to defend myself if I had to .that being said now say SHTF happens my arsenal isn't that large and I have a few family members that are not advanced enough in firearms to use a cap and ball pistol so I let them have my auto loading pistol it's easier to use etc.i have my pump shotgun for most defence purposes and small game a a modern rifle for big game but there not easy to keep on you at all times at camp or the homestead but I have the cap &ball revolver I'm fairly good shot with it .would it be good enough weapon to protect myself ? what are your thoughts ? Do you guys have a particular style of C&B recover that you would trust

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Old 02-11-2020, 07:39 AM
LC '92 LC '92 is offline
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I have a couple of thoughts on this, but little actual experience. I had a Colt .36 Navy replica that I shot for a while.

Look at the Remington 1858 replica too. It has a solid top strap and is, in my mind, a much more durable gun. If you strike something hard enough with the barrel of the open top Colt, it will bend the center pin and make the revolver inoperable.

They are extremely dirty to operate.

They can't be left loaded very long as the powder wicks moisture from the air and from the over bullet grease wad. You will need to see how long yours can remain loaded before it misfires.

Experiment with brands of caps you use. Some of them will split and fall back into the revolver and jam it.

Overall they are fun to play with and experiment with and for a few years they were the best answer we had, but now, not so much. Very undependable, especially during damp or rainy weather.
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Old 02-11-2020, 10:18 AM
Outpost75 Outpost75 is offline
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DO NOT buy a brass frame if you intend to shoot it very much.

They will shoot loose in a few hundred rounds even with light target loads.

Get a steel frame gun!

Properly managed a cap & ball revolver will stand complete immersion if you read actual wartime accounts. The trick is to have tight balls which fit, grease over the chambers and to also melt a bit of candle wax or shoe polish on a can lid and dip the open end of the caps in it to apply a slight 1/32" ring around the caps so that when pressed onto the nipples they create a water-tight seal. US military caps had a slight ring of beeswax factory applied to them. Walker's cavalry rode across rivers to engage the Mexicans, whose flintlock muskets misfired, and massacred them with their percussion guns.
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Old 02-11-2020, 10:37 AM
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"Outpost75" offered really great advice....heed his words....

as for myself....I have been shooting a Ruger Old Army...bought new in 1974....and have sent thousands....and I mean thousands of round balls down range. I have 100% faith in this workhorse to go bang each and EVERY time.
I have left it loaded for extended times....without any degradation of performance....when I was shooting my other three ROAs...
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Old 02-11-2020, 10:48 AM
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The first pistol I bought as a kid was a Italian repo of the Remington 1858. I shot the hell out of that gun, many 1000's of rounds. I even abused it with full charges of DuPont 4Fg, not a very accurate load BTW. It would cock the hammer and rotate the cylinder with that load - good thing I have a light trigger finger or it would have gone full auto.

"Dixie" brand caps usually needed to be cut off the nipple - PIA. Remington caps fell apart - could jam the cylinder - that's why people pointed the pistol up before cocking, to allow the pieces to fall free of the mechanism.

A proper fitting ball that shaves a ring on loading, seals well enough - still needs grease over top to prevent a chain fire. Never used grease wads on top of the powder.

I have a Stainless Ruger Old Army and a Cabela's copy of the 44 LeMat - both unfired. I need to make holsters for them.

Cleaning BP firearms isn't my favorite chore. Of the fake black powders I like American Pioneer the best.

I like RWS Musket caps in my TC Mountain Magnum - they will light the fake stuff without detectable delay.
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Old 02-11-2020, 11:02 AM
Outpost75 Outpost75 is offline
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When I was a kid growing up I shot an original Colt 1860 Army and 1858 Remington.
When they became too valuable to shoot I sold them to pay tuition for two years at Virginia Tech in the late 1960s.

My only cap & ball revolver today is a Ruger Old Army, which is a stone killer which has killed literal truckloads from game from squirrels to deer and wild hogs.

RWS caps ARE the best if you can find them, but CCI are entirely satisfactory.

Don't care for Remington caps at all.
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Old 02-11-2020, 11:20 AM
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The pinnacle of cap and ball revolvers is the Ruger Old Army. If you can find the stainless steel version, even better. Pretty much a Super Blackhawk frame with a loading lever. Your hand will give out before you can put enough powder in one to blow it up.
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Old 02-11-2020, 03:53 PM
Nomad, 2nd Nomad, 2nd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 45 Ohio View Post
I ? Do you guys have a particular style of C&B recover that you would trust
As stated:

Ruger old army.

I have "several" BP guns, .50 and .32 "squirrel" rifle, my Ruger, and several .36's I've picked up cheap here and there.

They are fun, and there's no doubt more than a few people have died from them.


But I'd take one of those Sccy 9mm cheapos ($200-$225 new, $140-$160 used.) FIirst.

Heck, I suspect I'd take a Hi Point (I've bought all the hi point 9mm pistols for $40-$70, but they are $129.99 retail.)

Sure, a cheap BP is about the same new, and you can find them $60-$80 used, but there's a lot to be said for a centerfire metalic round.I
(Also there's more cost to reloading vs a couple $10 mags.)

Ruger Old Army's are more than a GLOCK!


Now if you just want one:
Buy a suitable backup gun (preferably identical to your daily carry. If you have to use it the cops will take it as evidence and you'll want the same thing in your hands the next day.) and keep your eyes out for a good deal on your "useful toy"
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Old 02-11-2020, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
But I'd take one of those Sccy 9mm cheapos ($200-$225 new, $140-$160 used.) FIirst.

Heck, I suspect I'd take a Hi Point (I've bought all the hi point 9mm pistols for $40-$70, but they are $129.99 retail.)

Sure, a cheap BP is about the same new, and you can find them $60-$80 used, but there's a lot to be said for a centerfire metalic round.I
(Also there's more cost to reloading vs a couple $10 mags.)


Now if you just want one:
Buy a suitable backup gun (preferably identical to your daily carry. If you have to use it the cops will take it as evidence and you'll want the same thing in your hands the next day.) and keep your eyes out for a good deal on your "useful toy"
The OP stated he had the "auto" covered....so reading comprehension needs some work.....
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Old 02-24-2020, 07:10 AM
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If i every get abundantly wealthy

https://www.taylorsfirearms.com
in particular
https://www.taylorsfirearms.com/long...-138cablu.html
and
https://www.taylorsfirearms.com/hand...t-cavalry.html
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Old 02-24-2020, 05:01 PM
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great taste in the old ones
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Old 02-24-2020, 10:21 PM
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There is only one load for any black powder hand gun. Changing a grain or two does little.
Holy black is loaded by volume not weight.

As far as those revolvers I had one once. The first shot it exploded. It was a factory defect.
They mis-measured the cylinder gap, and all the charges went off at once.
I sent it back, they sent me a match pair of collector ones. I sold them.

After your six shots, it is done. takes way to long to reload, even with cylinder swapping.
A black powder cartridge revolver is way more reliable, and loads and unload faster.

I shot black powder in every straight wall case I own. Also have a hand built muzzle loading rifle circa 1810ish. Even do 45/70 540gr paper patched.
So Im no stranger to black powder, just wont shoot revolvers designed before 1866.
(cept a Queen Anne which is a single shot )
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:54 PM
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yea chain fires can be a bitch, especially on open-tops. 5 are easy, they clear everything, one at the bottom, drills the frame. major destruction. I always lard/crisco the ball end, keeps a errant spark
from lighting off the other five due to fine powder residue.
down side to it, i crave fast food french fries after a black powder day, due to the smokey oil smell.and i dont eat fast food........
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Old 02-27-2020, 10:44 PM
justin22885 justin22885 is online now
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I think the 1858 is a far better cap and ball revolver than the Colts. It's IMO the best of the original style guns. I never been that much interested in the Rugers because I liked the more historical accuracy of the clones of the originals.
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Old 02-28-2020, 02:15 AM
The Old Coach The Old Coach is offline
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Don't skimp. Get a Ruger Old Army. A stainless one will be spendy, but it will outlive your grandkids. Get the Lee REAL 200 grain mold, and load 35 grains (bulk) of 3F; Swiss if you can get it. I've never killed a deer with that load, but others have.

Round balls for plinking and maybe small game. They're too light for personal defense or game bigger than a small woodchuck. I've always used CCI caps. Make sure they're fully seated or you'll have misfires. There are aftermarket nipples that are better than the Ruger OEM. Only fault I can find with mine, and I am anything BUT a Ruger fanboi.
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Old 03-06-2020, 02:44 PM
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If you are going to bet your life on a cap and ball revolver, get two. Three is better. Loaded properly, they can be left loaded for quite some time but I would do some testing on that were I you. Colts are not difficult to disassemble and clean. I imagine Remingtons arent either but I never had one.
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