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Old 03-26-2020, 02:34 PM
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Default Cargo container: attaching shelves to inside walls



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If there is already an answer to this question please send me to the thread. I've been browsing and can't find it.

We have a cargo container/conex that we want to build wood - floor to ceiling shelves inside. How do we attach the shelving to the walls so they don't fall over without putting holes through the side?

My hubby also wants to add lighting down the center... hanging from the ceiling, so we need to figure out how to attach them also. They would be strip LED lights.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Old 03-26-2020, 03:13 PM
BravoLimaDelta BravoLimaDelta is offline
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Weld brackets to the walls.
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Old 03-26-2020, 04:35 PM
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Putting holes through the sides with bolts should not be a problem, it would be easier to deal with bolt heads than burned exterior paint from welding.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:16 PM
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What's the objection to putting holes in walls? Frankly, I'd run exterior brackets as well. Just seal up the holes.

Alternately, you could use pre-fabricated metal industrial shelving and then run straps around them and to the cargo walls. I assume there should be some studs you can tie off to. I did that for a box truck move recently. Worked out well.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:19 PM
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People are over thinking this in my opinion.

You're using wood - build the shelves on both sides. At the top, run a 2x4 (flat against the "roof") between both sides of the connex (left to right), attach to the shelving, and continue this all the way down it. You now have your stability and a place to mount your lights. All without welding or poking holes.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canningmom42 View Post
People are over thinking this in my opinion.

You're using wood - build the shelves on both sides. At the top, run a 2x4 (flat against the "roof") between both sides of the connex (left to right), attach to the shelving, and continue this all the way down it. You now have your stability and a place to mount your lights. All without welding or poking holes.
Brilliant.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:34 PM
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Thank you all - he is probably going to use the bolts through the walls and seal them.

I just wanted to get any other ideas from the brilliant minds on here.
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Old 03-27-2020, 02:08 AM
fordtrucksforever fordtrucksforever is offline
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Use either #12 or #14 self drilling screws. The container is more than strong enough to hold them.
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Old 03-27-2020, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canningmom42 View Post
People are over thinking this in my opinion.

You're using wood - build the shelves on both sides. At the top, run a 2x4 (flat against the "roof") between both sides of the connex (left to right), attach to the shelving, and continue this all the way down it. You now have your stability and a place to mount your lights. All without welding or poking holes.
For “shelving units”, just brace them to each other like mom said.
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Old 03-27-2020, 07:45 AM
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I have a 40 connex that has shelving like you describe. I built it from all 2X4s. Mine is unique in that I did not put plywood on the tops of the stringers it is all skeletonized. I saved a bunch of $ that way. The spacing between shelves just holds standard totes. No need for a top on the shelf, when everything is in totes anyway.

I didn't fasten the shelving to the connex. There is an inside rail and an outside rail/stringer for each tier, and two uprights every 8'. I cut the uprights to be a tight fit between floor and ceiling. You could run braces from side wall to side wall if you live in earthquake country, my shelves are very solid without.

I have the same system in my cellar but I consider the space in the cellar to be so valuable that I didn't want to waste the 4" height of the stringers, so I fastened wire shelving to the BOTTOMS of the stringers and so have two 4" high spaces for small stuff under the totes. I did run 2X4s from wall to wall in the cellar that I use to hang deer and antelope from in the isleway during hunting season.

This may sound confusing, just a picture or two would make it easy to understand, but I am an old guy who understands wood but putting pictures on confusers is a foreign language. But I am willing to answer questions.
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Old 03-27-2020, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canningmom42 View Post
People are over thinking this in my opinion.

You're using wood - build the shelves on both sides. At the top, run a 2x4 (flat against the "roof") between both sides of the connex (left to right), attach to the shelving, and continue this all the way down it. You now have your stability and a place to mount your lights. All without welding or poking holes.
This is exactly what I have done. I built 16ft long shelving units on each side of my 20ft Conex, and left 3.5 ft on the end for my saddle racks.
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Old 03-27-2020, 06:58 PM
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Liquid nails...
That stuff is amazing.
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Old 03-28-2020, 02:41 PM
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Does your container have loops at the top of the walls at the junction with the roof?

I've seen shelf brackets that hang from these hooks, used them in our daughter's HS marching band storage unit; sorry I can't remember the name of them or where I got them. My google-fu has become weak.

Just worked harder, it might be this:
http://www.cargocontainermods.com/

Here's another one I found;
https://containershelving.com/shelvi...rby=menu_order


Easy peasy.
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Old 04-06-2020, 05:02 PM
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Thanks for all the info here. Going to try this later this summer.
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