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Re: How to get the lid open on a gangbox?

7K views 26 replies 16 participants last post by  Justme11 
#1 ·
Re: How to get the lid open on a gangbox?

Ok, so I bought a gangbox at HD like the one below and as you know, it has two cut out slots for padlocks. They provide 2 padlock holders that go inside the cutout slots that you see facing you. Then you place the padlock inside of the slots close the lid and push in the padlocks and its locked. Where I think I messed up at was when I was installing the padlock holders and I think I snugged the nuts down too much so when the lid closes it latches, but it will not unlatch. Even with the padlocks unlocked. So what I have is that latch to the lid is latched on to the padlock holder without the padlock locked and I have no way of opening the lid. Is there anyway to get this fixed without tearing the lid off. BTW, it only latches on one. The other latch opens fine. Thanks for any help. This is brand new so I really hope something can be done about it.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-48-in-x-24-in-Universal-Storage-Chest-48R-OS/300748574
 
#2 ·
Did you overtighten the nuts to the point the captivated plastic head dislodged? Are you using a lock with proper dimensions?

I would jiggle the heck out of the lock and the lid to see if it will unseat.

Also, the metal latch is supposed to engage under the body of the lock mechanism, I would try slipping a slim pry bar under the lock and pushing rearward while pulling the lock forward.

Is there actually a cord hole knock out in the back of the cabinet as shown in the video? If so you might be able to see the mechanism and even get a socket with multiple long extensions into the box and loosen the nuts. If so, that is a potential security flaw!

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#3 ·
If it is the box I think it is and they haven't changed the design, try this. Put a sturdy ring in the key. Put the key in the lock. Turn the key. Pull on the ring with everything you got shaking while pulling. Lift the lid with other hand while pushing the lid back with whatever you got left.

Beating, shaking, and shouting profanity may aid the process.
 
#10 ·
Looks like the hook needs to be a little bit further back for it to release. So push the hook back while pulling the lock forward.

Flip the box on its back with wood blocks under the box, but not under the lid so the lid can open.
As @CentralScrutinizer says, slide a piece of steel in between the top of the lock and the hole. Use the thickest piece that will fit. Because the other side is opening I don't think you need to flex the hook much, so even really light gauge sheet steel is worth a go if the gap is tiny. Maybe put a v-notch in the end of the steel to keep it on the hook.
Press down firmly to flex the hook while also pulling the lock out using the key like @JDH says.
You will also need to open the lid at the same time so unless you have three hands get someone to help. The strut might do this anyway but a bit more effort won't hurt.
Jiggle, push, pull, twist until it pops open.

Cursing won't hurt, at the least it keeps the neighbors entertained!:D:

Once open have a look at the hook. Measure the clearances and compare to the other one. If there is a big difference it might need a bit filed off or a tap with a big hammer to move it back a little so it clears the lock. If the clearances are the same, loosen the u-bolt a bit.
Good luck.
 
#12 ·
Since it latches o the lock body, the whole thing needs to slide forward. Do you have a slide hammer? Like a dent puller for auto body work? Drill out the lock, screw in the slide hammer and wail away. Don't let the girlfriend do it because she will complain her arm is getting tired.:D: This should slide everything forward enough to let go.

I use the smaller ones for ammo boxes at the foot of the bed. Make a nice bench there.
 
#13 ·
Except for the shackle, nothing on these laminated master locks is hardened. I would drill the lock body to separate the shackle from the body of the lock.

Drill out or grind off the rivets in the bottom of the lock body. The laminations will slide off those rivets layer by layer. Once you get enough of those out that you will see the latching mechanism. A drill the keeper or drive the shackle out with a drift punch separating the shackle from the lock body.
 
#14 ·
The box is a hinky design.

On one side there is a huge cord knock out that will give view to the back of the mechanism. If you have a socket wrench and work up a 36 inch extension, you can run the nuts off. You can do same on the other side , starting with a 3 inch hole saw if there is no cord knockout.

I am going to HD this afternoon and try to look at one of these boxes,

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