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Old 02-18-2020, 12:05 AM
The Old Coach The Old Coach is offline
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Originally Posted by n1d View Post
A dedicated Ed's Red penetrating solution can be made by just using a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone. A historical note about Ed's Red. When Ed Harris first cooked it up, it exceeded the then current Mil Specs for bore cleaner and CLP.

https://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm
Yup. Farmers have used that for decades. Nothing gets as rusty as farm equipment, especially if it's around cows.
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Old 02-18-2020, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by swamp frog View Post
Iím using Hoppeís Elite oil and I noticed some friction points cleaning my Kimber Micro last night.

What are you guys/gals using.
I use the (owned by Hoppe's) MPRO formula as there's no terrible smell, etc. I've used Gunzilla as well but found the MPRO cleaner seems to clean a bit better than the combination cleaner/oil of Gunzilla. Good stuff though!
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Old 02-20-2020, 11:18 AM
Armtx77 Armtx77 is offline
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Kroil for the rifling and general cleaning and CLP7 for lube.

Dry Lube for bolts/actions on 22's.

Hornary One Shot or Ezz-Ox for metal protection.
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Old 02-21-2020, 05:25 AM
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I'm not overly picky. CLP and grease. Personally I think it's more important in how you use, rather than what you use. A lot of folks apply way to much lube in places it's not necessary.

I fired my freinds glock and could physically feel the grit accumulated in the trigger.....literally loaded with unnecessary oil which was attracting and trapping grit in the darn trigger.
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Old 02-21-2020, 05:26 AM
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For cleaning.....hot soapy water.
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Old 02-22-2020, 08:51 PM
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Oil vs grease

what should I be using?
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Old 02-22-2020, 09:51 PM
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Grease on metal to metal moving parts
Oil on the balance
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Old 02-23-2020, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack Swilling View Post
Grease on metal to metal moving parts
Oil on the balance
Hoppeís Elite Gun Oil is what I put on everything.

Should I be putting ďgreaseĒ on the slides of Ďmuh glock??
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Old 02-23-2020, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp frog View Post
Hoppe’s Elite Gun Oil is what I put on everything.

Should I be putting “grease” on the slides of ‘muh glock??
I have always used Ballistol on Glock slides for example like Hickok45

But Geissele/ALG (wife's company) grease is what I am using more on metal to metal moving parts
Go Juice oil and grease work real good
The grease is the lowest viscosity grease you can buy
NON-TOXIC like Ballistol
https://algdefense.com/alg-go-juice-...-4-oz-437.html
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Old 02-26-2020, 04:15 PM
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Cleaner and lube are two different animals.
some things they teach you in advanced armorer's school.
CLP is not a storage lube. You have to coat all steel with LSA prior to storage.

There is only one oil. LSA light and medium. Grease is Lubraplate.
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WD40 and Bristol both gather water. Would not use either, ever.

Hoppes 9 is one of the best cleaners, once again you have to oil it afterwards.
I have used it since the early 60's. (as far back as I can remember).

For those how said motor oil. Bravo, we could not have kept our M60s firing without it. I was a 60 gunner for awhile. We stuffed a quart can in a canteen pouch. Metal cans with no way to reseal them. Dump it in, get another can.
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Muzzle loaders:

Hot water and soap are the last resort. When you are really caked up with sludge. You also have to season your barrel after that or it will rust up.

Forget everything thing you know about modern firearms cleaning when addressing muzzle suffers.
Black powder reacts to oil based anything put on your rifle. at you barrel and the fired black powder will turn to sludge. Thats what its called.
Bristol is oil based despite what the website says. Go to the MSDS. We did over at the muzzle loading forums a decade ago.

The only way to clean black powder with out ruining the seasoning is with food grade cleaners and lubes. I have the recipes for you do it your selfers.

Store bought Thomson Center 1000+products are what you want.
The cleaner number 13 is all I have used since I built mine in 2005.
The lube is TC 1000+ bore butter.
The only warning I would give about the bore butter is do not use a lot. It can gather at the breech plug and stop your powder from igniting.
I have not washed my rifle since it was brand new. Not a drop of water or oil has been on it.
This r Ill get together with any of you locals and we can go out an all shoot my rifle. I do not care if there are one or 5 of your. Its a timex watch, just keeps on ticking. With 5 of us, boy would I burn thru flints.

My range rod is plastic w/brass tips, the ramrod is wooden. How many wooden ramrods have you seen broken do to sludge? Around here we see 1-2 flat landers every year.

Dont be a flat lander
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Old 02-26-2020, 04:35 PM
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Great info here guys. I've been shooting and to trade shows and events so long that I can't begin to tell you what I have to use.

I have a few products that are still labeled and are staples. Hoppes #9, Remoil, CLP and rail gun grease like super lube, frog lube, etc... and several small droppers with synthetic motor oil. I stay away from the sprays and prefer to mop or wipe everything. I shouldn't need to buy anything else except possibly cleaning patches till I die.

Keep them clean in case you need them!
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Old 02-27-2020, 03:25 PM
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Ed's Red and Red 'n Tacky grease as appropriate
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Old 02-29-2020, 06:44 PM
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Ballistol for cleaning bores and lubrication for every gun, except the M1 Garand gets lithium grease for lube.
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Old 03-01-2020, 03:32 PM
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3 in 1
Oil , motor oil , marvel mystery oil etc.
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Old 03-01-2020, 05:49 PM
Belnik Belnik is offline
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Cleaning, Hot soapy water.

Lube for use, any gun oil, at the moment that's going to be G96, Balistol, CLP, Rem oil*, or Mil-comm. I believe Mil-comm is the slickest, but never noticed a difference in real world shooting.

Lube for storage, Mil-comm has proved to be a bit better at rust prevention for me.
In my own testing, Rem oil was the worse oil I had for rust prevention. I have no issues using it prior to shooting but never after cleaning for storage. To each his own.
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Old 03-01-2020, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trip Wire View Post
Cleaner and lube are two different animals.
some things they teach you in advanced armorer's school.
CLP is not a storage lube. You have to coat all steel with LSA prior to storage.

There is only one oil. LSA light and medium. Grease is Lubraplate.
__________________________________________________ ___________

WD40 and Bristol both gather water. Would not use either, ever.

WD-40 does not gather water. The WD stand for water displacement. If you use water to clean your gun hosing it down with WD40 afterword works great to drive out all the water. Then clean & lubricate with proper cleaners & lubes. For the most part, I find synthetics to work the best, but there are usually some exceptions.
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Old 03-19-2020, 03:38 PM
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Default Honestly....in my experience most cleaners do a decent job

if you take the time to clean it properly with the appropriate elbow grease. I will say the may fav lube is the Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II Oil.

S.
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Old 03-19-2020, 04:06 PM
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Shooter lube: https://www.shooterlube.com/products...=8714313269358

My buddy, who shoots far more than I do, swears by it. I got some and it does do a very good job of breaking down the carbon/fouling.
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Old 03-19-2020, 07:23 PM
SeekingTruth SeekingTruth is offline
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Currently, I'm finishing up what Breakthrough Clean products I have, both HP Oil and Battle Born Grease, but mixed up a concoction of ATF, Lucas Oil additive, and Mobil 1 and have used it a bit. I'll be using it going forward after I finish up the Breakthrough stuff.
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Old 03-20-2020, 01:06 AM
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Sort of off topic sort of not:

I had an old Chief in Naval Gunnery School tell me about taking 50 caliber ma deuces and putting them in the big baking pans in the galley, submerged in the old CLP with all the Teflon in the bottom of the gallons and baking it until they were teflon-coated. I have no idea if he was giving me a yarn or not.
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