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Old 02-15-2020, 06:49 AM
browningv308 browningv308 is offline
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Default I want to upgrade my Knapheide service body



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2011 Chevy Silverado 3500 crew cab with a Knapheide service body, I'd like to add a second tool box to the top of the body Something like Tractor Supply makes for a short bed truck that would mount to the to side of a pick up truck.

Question I have is since both boxes are just powder coated metal, what can I put between the boxes to prevent rust? If I just bolt them together with powder coat to powder coat the rust would start immediately.
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:16 AM
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2011 Chevy Silverado 3500 crew cab with a Knapheide service body, I'd like to add a second tool box to the top of the body Something like Tractor Supply makes for a short bed truck that would mount to the to side of a pick up truck.

Question I have is since both boxes are just powder coated metal, what can I put between the boxes to prevent rust? If I just bolt them together with powder coat to powder coat the rust would start immediately.
THE BIG problem is how do you keep from trapping water between them
IF
the box does not have to be fully supported I would put one of the rubberized sealers at the corners and then an inert material like a heavy plastic at the four corners acting like feet, so you have good airflow between the present body and the new box. Trapped water is horrible for rust. Trapped salty water and you can watch it rust before your eyes. Your attachment points would be through the feet so those places where the powder coat is compromised it still protected by the sealant and the material used for the feet.

Lately I have used a waterproof sealant to provide protection for things like that, Once the installation is done, I just seal the whole thing in with silicone. IT adheres and flows into the little cracks that would allow water to enter then sets up hard enough to repel everything but it will be easy to take apart if you need to.

I live in northern Michigan where the roads are liberally salted and everything metal dies a nasty rusty death without a lot of TLC.
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:33 AM
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Put a bead of silicone caulk around the edge and bolt the top box down tight. The two boxes are going to rub the finish off of each other as they vibrate. The vibrations will also wear the rust off almost as fast as it forms. Dirt and grit getting between the box and the bed will make it worse. That is the reason for the caulk, helps keep out the dirt that grinds and the water that causes rust. Periodically tighten the hardware and refresh the caulk.

This was done on our 2008 welding truck. It has no rust issues between the boxes.
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Old 02-15-2020, 09:46 AM
browningv308 browningv308 is offline
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Feet would be a good idea Keep the water out from between the boxes, We have very little snow so the salt in our are is not bad but since buying the body new 2 years ago it has not held up well at all, the rust is coming through already.
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Old 02-15-2020, 04:55 PM
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You need a small gap to keep the crud from getting trapped and allowing it to be washed out. Otherwise the painted surfaces will fret against each other continually.

Install rubber shock mounts like you would use under a small engine. Install one in each corner backed up with fender washers inside the tool boxes . Non corrosive Silicon bead where the shock mounts meet painted metal. Put a couple extra mounts in the middle to provide redundancy and distribute the weight.

There may be some interlocking shock mounts that retain mechanical connection if the rubber fails.

You don't want the sheet metal flexing or paint will pop off, so some angle iron or aluminum angle inside can stiffen.

Just to be sure, add a layer of paint or clear coat before assembling.

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Old 02-16-2020, 02:26 AM
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i would chop in half extend it and add a second axle to offload some of the excess weight when full of tools..

You would likely overweight just with 4 people in the cab and nothing in the storage cabinets ..

with crap load of tools in those cabinets you can exceed 3 tonnes or more..

I see these type of things put on the back of 4cyl diesels and know the engine capacity isn't suitable for the excess weight you will store in them....

I don't care what axle weight ratings are in this case i would weigh the tools you are intending to use before even considering to do a fit out like this because they weight more than you think and you should like spread the weight to a second axle..
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Old 02-16-2020, 03:41 AM
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You want to chop it in half and add a second rear axle? It's a Chevrolet 3/4 ton with 1 ton springs/shocks and 10 ply tires, it can handle it.
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Old 02-16-2020, 05:49 AM
Redlineshooter Redlineshooter is offline
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You know 4 people around 150kg would gross over 600kg meaning on a 1 ton chassis with this setup 1,800-2,800 kg..

meaning even if the vehicle has 2.5-3.5 ton payload you might be in weight in 2.4 tons,
you might be over by 100 kg

factoring weight of gear you will be over 7-10 ton..

you are likely going to be overweight regardless of what you do on single axle to lable something in lbs to sound like you can haul a greater weight however when you start looking tons and tonnes you find where you stand more cleaner I would not rely on how these vehicles are tested in pulling capacity..

as i seen the test bunny hopping up a hill loosing traction on the front tires on a single axle

at the day do what you like though don't expect to stop on a dime once you load the tool chests with tools i would advise filling the tool chest full of tools then take it on the scales and see how much weighs full vs empty

I weigh about 300lbs give take 10-20lbs.. and 4 of me 544kg which over a half a ton at 5 680 kg close to 3/4 ton at 6 its 815kg is over 3/4 ton 66kg over 3/4ton..

Noting 2.5 ton = 2,500 kg
3.5 ton = 3,500kg
1.5 ton = 1,500 kg

if you have a cab that can 4-6 people in comfort

it is not the capacity of only the gear ratio that gets you places its also the suspension and form what i have seen in the yank testing method which is on youtube when the front bunny hops up a hill towing a goose and 5th you have serious issues in weight displacement on the rear wheels and the suspension rear axle setup is a safety hazard waiting to kill someone...

that utility tray is no different same things apply...

fully loaded that will likely weigh 7.5-12 ton and likely over the limit on the car license you have... and you will have a suspension of a people mover not a commercial vehicle as base specification the utility would be 2.5-3 ton

I don't really mention tonne to much because it is like splitting the atom between lbgs and kg adding either 500lbs or 500 kg between the ton and tonne measurement...

you might be within license specification if you can drive up to 8 ton on your car license however the more people you add you will likely go over that 8 ton limit

as for under body protection you will likely rhino guard it or anything in a similar product though with its addition most likely adds more weight to the overall package!!!!
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Old 02-16-2020, 06:23 AM
browningv308 browningv308 is offline
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At the landfill they weigh us in and out, 8200# with 2 people and tools, parts, and misc heating and air stuff. For the most part this truck hauls the tools and another truck hauls the equipment of the day
I want the 2nd top box not to add more stuff but to organize the stuff I already have. My cordless tools are getting beat up too bad so they will ride on top along with everything like drill bits and batteries.
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Old 02-16-2020, 06:39 AM
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the addition of the extra tool box may exceed 500kg depending the internal layout of the box

something to hold your sockets drill bits, charge bays, drills and other bits and bobs maintenance and cleaning tools tends take up weight and space before you realized it..

I learnt on what my uncle did with his 4x4 and what i seen others do with similar setups

your dream porn in this type of setup is to have synschrome//kinchrome/mac sliding draw system where everything has its natural place...
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Old 02-16-2020, 09:05 AM
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Ummm.

In the real world my 2011 2500 HD 4X4 with service bed loaded with tools, tires, Fuel jugs, spare parts, pit equipment, and such, pulling a 1500 pound trailer with 3300 pound race car on it was no where near 12 tons any time it went over the scales. No where near the GCWR. Drop the trailer, and it was not even close to max weight rating for the truck alone.

Empty it went just over 7000 pounds leaving over 5000 pounds for cargo and crew.

The 1/2, 3/4, 1 ton ratings are legacy carry overs to maintain continuity. They are not the actual weight ratings of the vehicles. You need to look on the data plate to get the rating for the specific vehicle as it was optioned.

And yes both Chevrolet and Ram 2500 series truck with the HD rating have the same running gear as the 3500 series. Ford probably does the same but I don't have firsthand experience with them.
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Old 02-16-2020, 03:09 PM
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redlineshooter just won't give up The aluminum box I want weighs in at 50# not adding any extra tools. The truck isn't doing wheelies up hills yet and it stops on a dime
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Old 02-16-2020, 04:09 PM
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The 1/2, 3/4, 1 ton ratings are legacy carry overs to maintain continuity. They are not the actual weight ratings of the vehicles. You need to look on the data plate to get the rating for the specific vehicle as it was optioned.

And yes both Chevrolet and Ram 2500 series truck with the HD rating have the same running gear as the 3500 series. Ford probably does the same but I don't have firsthand experience with them.
NOT RUNNING the same gear as I am running in my Chevy 3500.
454 big block dually with a 5spd manny tranny. (Tim Allen grunts )
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Old 02-16-2020, 09:19 PM
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NOT RUNNING the same gear as I am running in my Chevy 3500.
454 big block dually with a 5spd manny tranny. (Tim Allen grunts )
What do you get in that, about three gallons to the mile?
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Old 02-19-2020, 10:55 AM
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buy a horse stall mat, or a workout mat that you protect your floor with, the thick rubber ones.. cut it into strips to place under the toolbox and bolt through. I do it to all of my fuel tank tool box combos and havent had any issues. bee doing this way for many years.
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Old 02-19-2020, 08:21 PM
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What do you get in that, about three gallons to the mile?
NAH.. Almost 10 running empty... When I am hauling 2 tons of pellets on the trailer and one ton in the bed it gives almost 8.
NOTHING beats that old Deeeeetroit iron.

I pretty much just use it a couple of times a year, but dang it is strong and it does not stink.

Anymore I probably don't run it 1000 miles a year, if that.

I keep it around because it is just so dang pretty...
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Old 02-20-2020, 05:53 AM
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NAH.. Almost 10 running empty... When I am hauling 2 tons of pellets on the trailer and one ton in the bed it gives almost 8.
NOTHING beats that old Deeeeetroit iron.

I pretty much just use it a couple of times a year, but dang it is strong and it does not stink.

Anymore I probably don't run it 1000 miles a year, if that.

I keep it around because it is just so dang pretty...
I got 4 in the 86 suburban empty and 6 pulling the travel trailer. Figure that one out.
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Old 02-21-2020, 11:33 AM
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NOT RUNNING the same gear as I am running in my Chevy 3500.
454 big block dually with a 5spd manny tranny. (Tim Allen grunts )
Everything but the engine and transmission. The axles/springs are the same (bolt pattern changes slightly somewhere in the mid-2000s)
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