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Old 10-05-2019, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by wldwsel View Post
If it's truly a compressor and refrigerant, you need to know the "surge" of the startup for the compressor motor.
According to my research, there is very little surge at startup. That's one of the reasons I decided on this particular model.

The seller I contacted yesterday told me the compressor is a "swing compressor," and he said that's why there is almost no startup surge. Experienced DIYers will understand the reasoning behind this statement; I don't.
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Old 10-05-2019, 02:24 PM
BrianWorf BrianWorf is offline
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Some of the Goal Zero have Anderson PowerPole connections on them. I would definitely design your system to use them.

I have APP connections on all my vehicles to be able to easily plug in chargers, or power a load. I got the inline automotive fuse pigtails to hook up to the battery. They make a panel mount with 2 sets of APP red-black that are about the same size as a cig lighter. I have one of those on my work van with Chassis battery on one and Auxiliary battery on the other set. I have a cable with APP on one end and jumper clamps on the other to charge a dead battery on another vehicle from either source.

I also replaced the 12v outlet on my invertor generator with one of the dual set APP panel mount outlets and use the extra set of connections to plug a solar maintainer in for the start battery.
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Old 10-06-2019, 04:37 PM
ForumCreeper ForumCreeper is offline
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If I were you I would go with the 12 awg. I also have a 12v fridge and I am experiencing a voltage drop from my yeti to the fridge. You have to remember that the yeti is only 12.6 v fully charged, if itís the lithium version.

My fridge also allows 3 voltage setting so that it can work on lead acid and lithium. Meaning it will shut off to protect the battery at low voltages.

Iím actually in the process of sourcing 12 awg and will be swapping out the
18 awg that came with it because if I donít I can only take the yeti down to 50%
Something like 11 volts, but because of the small wire gauge thatís like 10 at the fridge.
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:03 PM
arleigh arleigh is online now
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Don't forget fuses .
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:09 PM
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You did see the ones with longer cords?
https://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lig.../dp/B01MRPKPPG

The 16ga wire and 10 amp fuse will be fine for your needs, just wire nut the wires together.
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ForumCreeper View Post
If I were you I would go with the 12 awg. I also have a 12v fridge and I am experiencing a voltage drop from my yeti to the fridge. You have to remember that the yeti is only 12.6 v fully charged, if it’s the lithium version.

My fridge also allows 3 voltage setting so that it can work on lead acid and lithium. Meaning it will shut off to protect the battery at low voltages.

I’m actually in the process of sourcing 12 awg and will be swapping out the
18 awg that came with it because if I don’t I can only take the yeti down to 50%
Something like 11 volts, but because of the small wire gauge that’s like 10 at the fridge.
ForumCreeper, I experienced essentially the same problem with my Sundanzer DC165 12V fridge a few years ago. The fridge kept shutting itself down. I was new to off-grid living and 12V appliances at the time, so it took awhile for me to determine what was going on, but I finally did. I fixed the problem by replacing the skinny wiring (IDK what gauge it was) with heavier wiring.

(I have several Yeti 400s. They are the old-style AGM ones, not the new lithium ones. Same issue, though, of course.)
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by woowoo2 View Post
You did see the ones with longer cords?
https://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lig.../dp/B01MRPKPPG
I saw that one, but it's not what I need. It only has a 10 foot wire, and my wire run will be ~18 feet.
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:31 PM
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Don't forget fuses .
I will make sure the male cig-lighter adapter contains a 15A fuse.
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MyPrepperLife View Post
I saw that one, but it's not what I need. It only has a 10 foot wire, and my wire run will be ~18 feet.
Would 15 feet work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15FT-Car-Ci....c100005.m1851
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by woowoo2 View Post
No, because I need 18 feet. Too bad! Other than that, it would be perfect, I think. (The on-line specs don't give the gauge of the wire, but it looks nice and beefy in the photo, doesn't it?)
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Old 10-06-2019, 07:27 PM
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I suggest you find a knowledgeable local person to help you add real connectors to your system. I would do it for free and have done that sort of thing many times for folks. You could easily barter for the labor and just buy the parts so they have no out of pocket expense. Wire and some connectors will be less than $20 and perhaps several hours if the show how to do it.
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyPrepperLife View Post
No, because I need 18 feet. Too bad! Other than that, it would be perfect, I think. (The on-line specs don't give the gauge of the wire, but it looks nice and beefy in the photo, doesn't it?)
I chased it a bit farther into the fine print and found it was 16awg wire. I also read about some tool less connectors but one review said the plastic melted.

A crimper tool and some splices could come in handy farther down the road as you expand your system. In my area the folks at Ace Hardware are super nice. I bet if you carried your stuff in and bought their tool and splices they would crimp them for you and instruct you at the same time. Maybe a big box store would do the same.
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyPrepperLife View Post
No, because I need 18 feet. Too bad! Other than that, it would be perfect, I think. (The on-line specs don't give the gauge of the wire, but it looks nice and beefy in the photo, doesn't it?)
Is your 18' run in one direction only[ie. Yeti to fridge is 18'], or is it 9' yeti to fridge and back? Makes a lot of difference. 18' one way would best be served by 10 AWG stranded wire. Less voltage loss and less heat factor in the wire.
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Old 10-07-2019, 12:18 AM
munik munik is offline
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I would use welding cable and Anderson power poles for the wiring and connection. I would not rely on a cigarette lighter assembly. Keep in mind most male cigarette lighter plugs have a fuse in them....
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Old 10-07-2019, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliemeyer007 View Post
I suggest you find a knowledgeable local person to help you add real connectors to your system. I would do it for free and have done that sort of thing many times for folks. You could easily barter for the labor and just buy the parts so they have no out of pocket expense. Wire and some connectors will be less than $20 and perhaps several hours if the show how to do it.
What do you mean by "real connectors"?
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Old 10-07-2019, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by fishingjeff View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MyPrepperLife View Post
No, because I need 18 feet. Too bad! Other than that, it would be perfect, I think. (The on-line specs don't give the gauge of the wire, but it looks nice and beefy in the photo, doesn't it?)
Is your 18' run in one direction only[ie. Yeti to fridge is 18'], or is it 9' yeti to fridge and back? Makes a lot of difference. 18' one way would best be served by 10 AWG stranded wire. Less voltage loss and less heat factor in the wire.
It is 18' in one direction.
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Old 10-07-2019, 06:34 AM
woowoo2 woowoo2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by munik View Post
I would use welding cable and Anderson power poles for the wiring and connection.
For less than 3 amps of DC?

That's nuts.

MPL...
Stop by my garage in southern Indiana, I just checked, I have everything you need to make the cable.
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Old 10-07-2019, 07:38 AM
MattB4 MattB4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyPrepperLife View Post
I will make sure the male cig-lighter adapter contains a 15A fuse.
I wouldn't since as I already mentioned your Yeti's 12 volt outlet is rated for 10 amps. In your usage for the fridge it will not harm anything but it is never a good electrical practice to have a higher fuse or breaker downstream of a lower rated setup. What that means is your Yeti's protection will fail before the 15 amp fuse can blow.

Lots of well meaning advice from folks that are not looking at the particulars of your situation. I will say that auto power type plugs are not the best way to connect things. By and large this type of connection, that is a outgrowth of the old pop type cigarette lighters in cars, was never designed for the task you are putting it to. But it is what you have and you wish to make the best of it.
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Old 10-07-2019, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notyoung View Post
The 15 amp fuse is because refrigerator compressors can have a startup current that is many times the running current.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wldwsel View Post
If it's truly a compressor and refrigerant, you need to know the "surge" of the startup for the compressor motor. It could be more than 10 amps, in which case your 10 Amp fuse will open (blow).

While this is true for many if not most AC-powered compressors, it is not true for the newer DC compressors. Internally, they are all inverter drive to a three-phase hermetically sealed motor. The electronics in the inverter drive operate the compressors at a variable speed, and limit the startup surge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by notyoung View Post
I would suggest good quality crimp connectors and a proper crimping tool instead of wire nuts. Wire nuts can be spun off a stranded connection if the wiring is jerked. That's much less likely with a crimped connection.
This is good advice.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MyPrepperLife View Post
I'm aware of this, and I did consider using one of those, but I quickly realized it would accomplish nothing. What I mean is that if the cig-lighter connection is a weak spot (and it is, I know), using a cig-lighter-to-powerpole adapter would not address that weakness because I'd still have the cig lighter connection. I fact, it could be argued that including a cig-lighter-to-powerpole adapter in the wiring configuration would weaken the configuration because there would be a superfluous connection point.

(Or have I somehow missed your point, Still Standing?)
::shrug:: The only point I'm trying to make is that if you want to get started in the powerpole system of connectors, you could do so by utilizing an adapter for the time being. Then you would be well positioned to use your 'fridge with other power sources, or to share equipment with others who use powerpoles, or to use your power supply with loads other than the fridge. Overall just more flexibility if that's what you want. Whether any of that is important in your situation isn't clear from your posts. You decide.

I suppose adding a pair of powerpoles would, in a theoretical sense, add a failure point. That said, the powerpole connectors are, in my experience, extremely reliable, while cigarette lighter adapters are extremely prone to failure. So, in practice, I don't think it would make any difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MyPrepperLife View Post
You know how you just know what you are good at and what you are not good at? Well, I just know I would not be good at soldering. Now I'm not saying it would be impossible for me to develop skill with soldering. I could, but it would take time - something I don't have a lot of at the moment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoveman View Post
soldering is easy, and makes superior connections.
I've been soldering things since before the internet existed. I have maybe half a dozen soldering irons of different sizes and types. They have their uses.

When crimp connectors and the correct tooling for them are available, I make crimp connections, particularly for 12 volt DC circuits. They are just as reliable, and it's faster and easier to do particularly under adverse conditions.

For people who don't already know how to solder, I would suggest getting a good crimp tool instead.
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Old 10-07-2019, 02:07 PM
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Its your project. Several people have posted heat/melting issues with cigarette lighter plugs and sockets. I have seen it too, that's why I(we) are trying to get you to use better quality connectors and heavier wire. Yes, a fuse will likely protect you from a fire, but it could also be ruining the contents of the refrig/freezer at the same.

Just remember that amp draw and carrying capacity are rated when stuff is new, add some time on the compressor, mechanical damage to the wire and maybe some corrosion build up in connectors; that original rating could be meaning less.
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