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Old 01-08-2020, 06:14 PM
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Inazone Inazone is offline
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Originally Posted by Astronomy View Post
Surprisingly, that Trail Master is still my very favorite blade & grip shape. Something about that design just sings to me. Knives are personal; never mind the pros/cons of various makers, steels, shapes, & sizes. For me, that one was always perfect.
I feel that way about my CS Recon Scout. It's one of the old US-made Carbon V steel versions. Not that I've ever used it for anything, but it's just a cool knife of the right size, right feel, etc. Two others that I'll never part with are an Ontario SP19 and SP25, neither of which were (apparently) as popular as some of their other models and discontinued while other SP knives have stayed in production for many years.

As far as painting firearms is concerned, I've only ever seriously considered it once, and it's for an AR that has a fair amount of Magpul furniture, a Safariland light and a Vortex Strike Eagle. That's quite a variety of stuff to cover, and I wouldn't want to change my mind after the fact. If I were to do it, it'd be either some type of woodland camo or winter camo. I've watched Garand Thumb's video and found it pretty informative, but I'm just not sure if I'm feeling confident that I'd like the end result.
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Old 01-09-2020, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AlphaSierraCharlie View Post
I'd like to add that Brownells Alumahyde 2 makes an excellent base coat. Takes a week to fully cure, so IMHO, it's worth the time and effort to prep everything if you're using it.
It does. Just be aware that its not likely coming off down the road without a bead blast, if you change your mind.

If you use a light tan or something similar for the base, and use paints like Krylon and Testors on top of it, you can remove them later and it wont affect the AHII.

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Originally Posted by Lost Woods Survival View Post
And if you do rattle can I always use a good clear coat over it.
Watch what you use here. Make sure its the same type of paint as what you painted the rest of the gun with.

Lacquer over enamel can and will keep the enamel from curing properly and will cause the gun to feel "sticky", and it wont ever cure. Youll likely have to strip it and do it over.

If you feel the need to do this, and dont have compatible paints, Id go very lightly on the clear coat then.


As has been mentioned, the effect of the paint job actually get better with age.


I also think that the basic home done jobs are better than a commercial alternative.

The main idea is to break the outline of the gun, and thats pretty easily done, with just a decent light-colored base, and a few other colors to effect the break up.

Pattern wise, about the easiest to mimic, and is very effective in the field against both animals and man, is the old "tan" ASAT pattern.

Multicam is also another easily done pattern to copy, and all thats needed are a few cans of appropriate colors and a couple of sheets of printer paper with some patterns cut out of them, and held above the gun as you spray through them.

Still, anything is better than black, as long as you dont get carried away, and get to crazy with the colors. Lighter colors for the base are best, and keep that the "main" color, dont try to "fill it in". Otherwise, youll end up with the blob effect, that fights the breakup.
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