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.308 AR Query

5K views 61 replies 14 participants last post by  wldwsel 
#1 ·
So until several years ago you couldn't find a sub $2000 .308 AR model. The market basement was at that amount, unless you went DIY or previously owned. Then the Sig AR version showed up and upset the market pricing.

I had been pondering getting at .308 AR for the longest time until shortly after the Sig came out. About then I got distracted with other gun wants, plus my dad passing down a number of guns that I wanted to rehab.

So at about the time of the Sig entry I quit checking on the info out there. Since that time I've seen new entries and pricing while scanning articles on the Firearm Blog, but haven't really dug into it.

Now my interest has renewed and I have the time and money to start again looking into one. I still might build one, but I don't need advice on that front. If I go that route I'll do all the due diligence. But with new factory entries and pricing scales I'd like to check into that idea first. But I'm starting basically at zero again and figured to jump start my info gathering here on factory models.

So if you own one of the newer models, or have been heavily researching the prospects out there, then I'd like to hear back from you. Prices, pros/cons, mag compatibility, models that need a few key aftermarket additions, etc. I'm not looking for optics advice, unless a certain offering might have a notable issue in mounting certain optics. I tend to spend my first year with any AR using iron sights to get used to its quirks.

Thanks in advance.
 
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#2 ·
DPMS Oracle, bought it 18 months ago, 16" base model, $850 OTD, closer to $700 now.

Low gas block height, so IF you put anything on it, like irons, you need to understand what that means, and buy the right height; but everything else is as standardized as it gets. PIC rail is not full length, but it mounted my Nikon just fine.

But with 20" uppers going for under $300 all over the net, and lowers close to the same if not less, I'd go that route today.

The DPMS is solid, and anyone talking crap about their quality is wrong. DPMS made parts for the big name boys, then started selling the same stuff with their own name on it. It isn't low quality by any standard.

 
#4 ·
I've done several builds on DPMS stamped lowers for myself and friends. It's mil-spec and works, but then again it's not like a stripped lower has to be anything special to make a good gun if you do the rest right.

I know DPMS makes certain milspec parts, and used to do it for outsourcing. Hell, Colt buys half their gun parts from outside contractors. There is a lot of this going on in the industry that buyers of factory guns aren't aware of and it's been going on for decades.

My worry is that unlike the AR15 there is not true accepted standard for AR10 style rifles. An Armalite part doesn't always fit other brands, and they were the originators. There is a bit of deviation flowing through the AR10 industry, especially in the older days. So it's hard to call any AR10 brand to be part of a well functioning standardized process.

I'll definitely look into the DPMS because that price is real good and they are an experienced outfit, but I'm a bit leery of buying into the "good generic" implication because the generic word doesn't fit well within the AR10 family of guns. It's more that I take your recommendation that they do their particular model well.

How picky is it with ammo? Mag brand compatibility?
 
#3 ·
I just ordered a complete lower and complete 20" free float upper from PSA for just $590 total. (Its cheaper to order that way than as a complete rifle. I've read this gets around a tax for selling complete guns)

I don't have it yet so no personal review, however I did read a lot about these guns before I bought one and they seem to be very well thought of.

One of the things my reading has made clear is that AR-10s are not standardized like AR-15s and you can't mix and match parts to the same degree. At a minimum it seems that one should make sure to get a BCG and Barrel from the same maker.

I also would not buy an AR-10 or 15 at this point that wasn't free floated. It no longer a expensive option but something that should be standard, especially on any long range build.
 
#8 ·
I did the same thing, and the upper and lower fit together like garbage with more rattles than a trailer load of spray paint heading out the interstate to Walmart.

If I ever felt the need to try an AR10 again I’d try one of their compete rifles but I’ll not chance getting two poorly fitting halves again.

For now my M1A suits my 7.62x51 needs.
 
#6 ·
Actually, I've never been a fan of Armalite products because their habit of using too many unique parts and their price points.

They were one of the reasons I held off so many years.

Also, I will definitely be getting a flat top.
 
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#10 ·
I have the PSA with a rifle stock and I love it. Functions flawlessly and seems to be fairly accurate. No doubt it will be a great hunting rifle.



Al
 
#11 ·
As I said in the OP, I'm only making this thread for factory models. Saving money by Frankenbuilding is old habit for me.

If I go the assembly route that means I'm going to put in the deep research time myself.

But factory fit, finish, and warranty has its own type of appeal and value. If I see one that grabs my appeal at a price point I can live with then I might just skip all the deep research on components and grab it.

My parameters right now for advice are pretty easy.

Sub $2K, flat top, no optics suggestions, and factory built and warrantied. Sure, I want to know more particulars on any model suggested but meeting that short list is important.

[edit] Al, I probably will look into a PSA complete model. As I asked above, I'm always keen on learning how finicky they are about ammo and mags.
 
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#12 ·
Oh, yeah, my PSA cost $460 as it came from PSA with a 6 position stock.

I have used Steel cased .308, Venezuelan 7.62 NATO, Winchester white box. No problem with any. I did have a Tula case crack when it fired but, that was no fault of the gun. The only magazines that I have used are Magpul and ASC. No problems with any of them.

Al
 
#13 ·
I did the same thing, and the upper and lower fit together like garbage with more rattles than a trailer load of spray paint heading out the interstate to Walmart.
Sounds like my Colt 6920s. Bugged me at first but I got over it as it doesn't effect function.

If I go the assembly route that means I'm going to put in the deep research time myself.
I don't count putting a complete lower with a complete upper from the same company together as 'assembly' or being a franken gun.

Not that I have a problem with that...my favorite guns are self built and mix and matched.

But factory fit, finish, and warranty has its own type of appeal and value. If I see one that grabs my appeal at a price point I can live with then I might just skip all the deep research on components and grab it.
Then just go to the store and buy one.
Second that. If factory is important to you then just go buy one. I've never found any value in warranties from gun companies. They've either failed out of warranty or the company has told me my issues where normal and not offered any fix.
 
#16 ·
I just built my AR in 308 so I spent a lot of time doing research.

Even if you buy a complete rifle, there are things you should probably know.

First, you can shoot 7.62 in a 308 chambered rifle, but you might not do the reverse because you might have problems, depending on headspace! It's sort of like the .223 vs 5.56 but backwards. When in doubt, get a 308.

There are 3 basic pattern AR 308 rifles. The Armalite AR10, the old style DPMS "high shelf" and the new DPMS "low shelf". High and low refer to the height of the top of the pic rail on the upper receiver. As far as I know, none of the 3 types of RECEIVERS are compatible with the others. But almost all the internal parts are, excluding Armalite, which I would avoid unless you want an all-Armalite gun.

Other than Armalite, most internal parts are the same as an AR15 except for the takedown pins, and sometimes some other small parts.

Not all mags seem to work in all DPMS pattern 308s. I have some ASC steel mags that work fine in my Aero receiver based gun, but people with PSAs say they don't work in theirs. However, the Pmags seem to work in everything. But there are 2 different types of 308 Pmags, so you have to get the right type. (I think its the SR25 type? Someone correct me or verify it?)

DPMS single handedly made the AR in 308 popular. Yeah, Armalite makes them, but they've always had a very low market share and they like to do things their own way.

The most common pattern has for a long time been the DPMS low, but now there are more "high" handguards than "low" handguards out there for sale (they need to match up to the receiver) so I think the new "low" style may soon be the most popular, if it's not already.

One reason I built mine was because I wanted a particular type of barrel -16" chrome lined 4150CMV, So that's something to think about. Another thing to think about is barrel length, gas system length, and recoil. A 20" barrel with a rifle length gas won't be any more accurate than a 16" midlength (like mine) and will only get you 100 more fps, but will be softer shooting. Mine has some recoil but nothing like a 308 bolt gun. I prefer the compactness and lighter weight (7 lbs) compared to a longer rifle.

People will tell you that a longer barrel is more accurate but it ain't so, and the FPS difference is not enough to mean much except at very long range. So you have to decide what you want - lighter weight and compactness, or less recoil and a few more FPS. If it's a long range bench rifle, a longer barrel is better but then you may also want to go with 6.5 Creedmore vs 308.

From what I could find, you basically can't go wrong with a DPMS rifle. They've been doing it the longest and they know what they're doing. The have many models other than the Oracle. I've never heard a bad thing about them, except from people who don't own them and like to bash anything that's not their preferred brand name.

The PSAs have been hit or miss. Plenty of them (I would SWAG about 10%) seem to have a chamber problem, where brass will either not chamber or will not extract. However, PSA always seems to eventually fix the problem. And PSA parts have a lifetime guarantee. Accuracy seems to be pretty good once they work. I've actually been thinking about buying their separate upper and lower to have a 2nd 308 just because the price is so damn good.

I would have NO PROBLEM using Aero for a complete rifle. They make good stuff, and my upper and lower receivers are Aero.

Having said all that, I would like to have one of the PoF lightweight guns: https://www.rainierarms.com/pof-revolution-gen-4-308-rifle-16-5/

.
 
#17 ·
I just built my AR in 308 so I spent a lot of time doing research.

Even if you buy a complete rifle, there are things you should probably know.

First, you can shoot 7.62 in a 308 chambered rifle, but you might not do the reverse because you might have problems, depending on headspace! It's sort of like the .223 vs 5.56 but backwards. When in doubt, get a 308.

There are 3 basic pattern AR 308 rifles. The Armalite AR10, the old style DPMS "high shelf" and the new DPMS "low shelf". High and low refer to the height of the top of the pic rail on the upper receiver. As far as I know, none of the 3 types of RECEIVERS are compatible with the others. But almost all the internal parts are, excluding Armalite, which I would avoid unless you want an all-Armalite gun.

Other than Armalite, most internal parts are the same as an AR15 except for the takedown pins, and sometimes some other small parts.

DPMS single handedly made the AR in 308 popular. Yeah, Armalite makes them, but they've always had a very low market share and they like to do things their own way.

The most common pattern has for a long time been the DPMS low, but now there are more "high" handguards than "low" handguards (they need to match up to the receiver) so I think the "low" style may soon be the most popular, if it's not already.

One reason I built mine was because I wanted a particular type of barrel -16" chrome lined 4150CMV, So that's something to think about. Another thing to think about is barrel length, gas system length, and recoil. A 20" barrel with a rifle length gas won't be any more accurate than a 16" midlength (like mine) and will only get you 100 more fps, but will be softer shooting. Mine has some recoil but nothing like a 308 bolt gun. I prefer the compactness and lighter weight (7 lbs) compared to a longer rifle.

People will tell you that a longer barrel is more accurate but it ain't so, and the FPS difference is not enough to mean much except at very long range. So you have to decide what you want.

From what I could find, you basically can't go wrong with a DPMS rifle. They've been doing it the longest and they know what they're doing. The have many models other than the Oracle. I've never heard a bad thing about them, except from people who don't own them and like to bash.

The PSAs have been hit or miss. Plenty of them (I would SWAG about 10%) seem to have a chamber problem, where brass will either not chamber or will not extract. However, PSA always seems to eventually fix the problem. Accuracy seems to be pretty good once they work. I've actually been thinking about buying their separate upper and lower to have a 2nd 308 just because the price is so damn good.

I would have NO PROBLEM using Aero for a complete rifle. They make good stuff, and my upper and lower receivers are Aero.

Having said all that, I would like to have one of the PoF lightweight guns: https://www.rainierarms.com/pof-revolution-gen-4-308-rifle-16-5/

.
The High and Low shelf apply to the LR308 and the Small frame is completely different. DPMS Only makes one version of the LR308 now, with the rest all being Small Frame 308. Which is the version that has 80% or so commonality with AR15 parts.

There is also the KAC/M110 pattern. A example of that would be the Ruger SR762.

THe DPMS Small Frame is definitely becoming the most popular
 
#20 ·
Thanks, Sarco and RC, that was a real good info jump start.

Good to know about the .308 v 7.62 deal and that there has been a drift towards some degree of standardization, even if it's mostly two types. As for Armalite, I was really never considering them. Too unique and pricey. They were just content to camp on their own old style and too proud of their pricing. AR rifles are supposed to be a modular weapon system and they wanted to lock you in on their own gear.

I'm seeing Savage now offers a 16" and S&W M&P and CMMG both have one in 18". I have some older Savages in classic 300S that I've always liked but I don't know well they've done in modular guns. I have a 1st year issue M&P in 5.56 that shoots like a dream, but I've heard reports that later years weren't so great as that first year model. CMMG has always had a really great rep. Savage runs about $1100 and the others about $1300. All are in my price range.

But reading here it seems that DPMS gets good enough to dismiss the Savage unless I hear some real raves about their quality. I like my M&P and it would be nice to pair it with my 5.56, but I have to see if their decline was in all their ARs or just the 5.56. I know I can just slap down 13 bills for the CMMG and be real happy. But will I be getting almost twice as nice as the DPMS for almost twice the price?

There are a lot of new players I've never even heard of before too. Diamondback, WMD, and DS Arms. I haven't a clue. I've always dreamed a bit about getting any kind of POF but down here I'm never going to see the quality grade of game to justify one. No moose, elk, caribou, or bighorn down here. I'm not blowing a bundle just for warm climate small white tail or feral hog. I've plenty of good tools for those but some more power at an affordable price would be nice. And it would be nice to have a long mag fed rifle with some real punch after SHTF. My 300S lever rifles are sweet but ammo is expensive and capacity is small. I only bring them out deer hunting. I want more rounds if I'm hunting hog because they run in packs. 5.56 does a fair job but not the best. I hunt them on foot instead of vehicle and you just never know when they will get the idea that coming after you is the solution. I've had a couple nervous times when I was dealing with a dozen of them and wondering if 30 rounds of 5.56 was going to be enough. It's not like shooting paper when half the sounder scatters in your direction.
 
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#21 · (Edited)
...I'm seeing Savage now offers a 16" and S&W M&P and CMMG both have one in 18". I have some older Savages in classic 300S that I've always liked but I don't know well they've done in modular guns. I have a 1st year issue M&P in 5.56 that shoots like a dream, but I've heard reports that later years weren't so great as that first year model. CMMG has always had a really great rep. Savage runs about $1100 and the others about $1300. All are in my price range.....
Ok IDK why but for some reason I didn't think about the S&W MP10. MY guess is from watching or reading reviews, its the most accurate out of the box AR308 you can get for the price. Also dependable and reliable.

It was also #1 on my short list before I decided to build instead of buy.


.
.
 
#23 ·
A couple of things.

Even though the difference in velocity between a 16" and a 20" is only about 5%, the difference in energy is about 10%, which may or may not be relevant to you. Just an FYI.

I ordered mine in 20", for the tamer recoil and slight increase in power. I have many other guns better suited for close range work so that isn't a big consideration of mine when picking out a .308.

If your interested in a stock for buttstrokes...

I have one of these on my x39 AR...pretty solid as it doesn't put all the force on the buffer tube but also braces to the hand guard. They make them for DPMS pattern AR 10's as well, I will probably put one on mine when I get it.

Hera Arms CQB or CQR stock.


Personally, I wouldn't get any rifle at this point that wasn't free floated, particularly a long range rifle. Its basically a free accuracy boost with no real downside.

When I free floated my Colt 6920 I went from 2.5 MOA to 1.5 MOA just like that.

I also wouldn't buy a barrel that wasn't threaded. Like freefloating, it should just be a standard option on any new gun. You never know, you may want a suppressor someday or muzzle brake.
 
#24 ·
If your interested in a stock for buttstrokes...

I have one of these on my x39 AR...pretty solid as it doesn't put all the force on the buffer tube but also braces to the hand guard. They make them for DPMS pattern AR 10's as well, I will probably put one on mine when I get it.

Hera Arms CQB or CQR stock
Good info for the rest, but I cut my teeth on M16A1's and I don't even consider the original fixed buttstock up to snuff as far as strength.



https://star15.com/skeleton-stock-arfx-buffer-tube-spring-not-included-black-0-5

The billet and bar of this one though is serious business. You will break the lower receiver before this one gives out. It's more than just about buttstroking. It's about tightness, stability, wear life, and drop resistance. But saying you want the strength to use it as an attack point lets folks know how serious you are about strength.
 
#25 ·
You will break the lower receiver before this one gives out.
I'm sure, but thats what I would worry about, breaking the lower receiver. The part that the buffer tube screws into never looked like it was designed to take very much leverage. At least with a thumbhole stock there is a second point of contact.

But I've never tried to use one as pry bar either so maybe its stronger than it looks.

Anyway, just another of the 100 options out there for AR stocks.
 
#28 ·
I haven't used them as pry bars either but I have given them the 5' drop test several times.

It just makes the receiver and buttstock feel like one continuous forged piece.

And for a metal high grade stock being $99 is affordable enough.
 
#26 ·
Although it doesn’t apply to your situation, when I bought that upper and lower from PSA there was at least a 16th of an inch gap along the entire length of the receiver. Some places it was a little more someplace is a little less. I started to notice odd wear inside the buffer tube as well as some side to side slop.

As for magazines, Brownell‘s is always running specials on their brand of 20 round magazines, usually 10 for $99. Me and a buddy bought 30 total and split them, neither of us had any problems, be with the PSA or him with his DPMS
 
#27 ·
When you end up with those receiver gaps you can buy a Delrin wedge device that will lock the receivers together with a bit of pressure that still isn't hard to use the takedown pins. It won't close the gap but stops any receiver rattle. But I don't know if they have one sized for AR10's.

Brownells usgi style mags are decent mags. I have some for my AR15's.
 
#33 ·
And for a metal high grade stock being $99 is affordable enough.
Indeed. Its cheaper than the polymer stocks I've put on my ARs. I may consider it for my next build. How well does the foam tube hold up? I would worry a little about it getting torn up from being carried around.

There is one downside to a FF rail - when the barrel is hot, POI will shift. When shooting with iron sights, if the sight is attached to the barrel the POA will be more accurate than if the sight is attached to a free float rail.
uh, this is opposite of everything I have ever read on the subject. Half of the entire point of a free float barrel is so POI doesn't shift when the barrel heats up. (Nothing for the expanding hot barrel to push against)

But in in any case, iron sights wouldn't give you enough accuracy anyway to even be able to detect a POI shift from a warm barrel one way or another.
 
#34 ·
..uh, this is opposite of everything I have ever read on the subject. Half of the entire point of a free float barrel is so POI doesn't shift when the barrel heats up. (Nothing for the expanding hot barrel to push against)

But in in any case, iron sights wouldn't give you enough accuracy anyway to even be able to detect a POI shift from a warm barrel one way or another.
The barrel droops when it gets hot enough, affecting point of impact. Then, if the front sight stays where it was before the barrel drooped, the point of aim will be different from the POI.

I admit its not that big of an issue unless you're shooting fast at longer ranges, but still, it is a real thing, pointed out to me by a guy on another forum who shoots a lot more than me and who buys ammo by the pallet for his group. It affected them enough that they don't use FF rails anymore on new AR purchases.

.
 
#39 ·
It affected them enough that they don't use FF rails anymore on new AR purchases.
Sorry, that sounds like gun forum BS to me. It makes no logical sense.

Is the barrel supposed to be getting softer and drooping because of gravity? Seems the effect of the heavy spring loaded non FF handguard pushing on it would have a lot more effect...even if one believed rifle barrels softened at those kind of temperatures (or could spring back when they cooled off)

How does the iron sight halfway down the barrel track what the barrel tip is doing? How does anyone shooting iron sights even know the difference?

Nope. I would need to see a real scientific study to believe a claim like that.

I mean, I absolutely think the barrel shifts because of temperature changes, anyone with a paper clip and a bic can prove that theory...but don't buy that having an iron sight over an optic gets you anywhere in this regard.

Its sounds like just example #4006 of someone on a gun forum making a unconventional choice for the sake of sounding 'wise' or experienced. The cult of the iron sight traditionalist.

An optic, free floated or otherwise will make vastly more difference than irons, even if they did track a shifting barrel.
 
#43 ·
In regards to FF barrels, I want to point out that a hot barrel isn't the only thing that can make your FF handguard shift.

Anyone walked in the woods whether day or night (especially at night) the is always the chance of busting your ass. I have myself have broken 3 M68 CCO red dots while doing movement to contacts. It happens.

The one time I face planted with a FF 300bo barrel (pig hunting), the handguard shifted as far as it could go, and completely through off the BUISs. I also broke the T1 Aimpoint I had on the AR. That AR was now completely useless, except at short range.

Im not saying that FF handguards are useless, but you need to be aware of the possibility of going busting your 4th point of contact and messing up your rifle

The few rifles I do have with FF handguards have railed gas blocks so I dont have to worry about that happening again
 
#40 ·
Yep, the amount of whacked out theories on gun forums rivals the number you will find on survival forums.

Caveat Emptor and triple check everything.
 
#41 ·
If the barrel is pointing in a different direction from where it was when you've zeroed your sights, but your sights don't move, you're going to miss a target 100 yards away whether you have an optic or a sight.

If your front sight moves with the barrel, you have a higher likelihood of hitting your target.

What part of that doesn't make logical sense?

A quick google search shows that it's not even an abstract idea and plenty of people talk about it. Also, the rail can be bumped out of alignment. Or the rail can shift with heat, moving the front sight. That's probably why people say to not mount your scope across the joint of the pic rail on the upper and handguard.

Whether or not you think it will cause an issue for your personal situation doesn't mean it can't happen.

.
 
#42 ·
If the barrel is pointing in a different direction from where it was when you've zeroed your sights, but your sights don't move, you're going to miss a target 100 yards away whether you have an optic or a sight.
No barrel is going to warp that much unless its red hot. Maybe you will get a MOA or two shift at the most but that is still going to be well under what your shooting with irons. A target small enough to miss because of that kind of deflection is a target too small to see without an optic, rendering the whole argument moot.

If your front sight moves with the barrel, you have a higher likelihood of hitting your target.

What part of that doesn't make logical sense?
The part where an iron sight is even accurate enough for small MOA differences to matter.

Also, the rail can be bumped out of alignment. Or the rail can shift with heat, moving the front sight. That's probably why people say to not mount your scope across the joint of the pic rail on the upper and handguard.
Indeed. Thats why its free floated and the optic is on the receiver instead of the rail. ;)
 
#44 ·
...Indeed. Thats why its free floated and the optic is on the receiver instead of the rail. ;)
As I said. You may not think it's important. But it's still a fact and some people are concerned about it. There is indeed something to lose by using a FF rail with a front sight mounted to it, and in fact there are 2-3 tradeoffs, all pointed out in this thread. You consider the tradeoffs worthwhile, but they still exist. But everyone has their own opinion and I know you well enough to know that we are alike in a certain way - we are both stubborn, LOL. A curse I passed onto my son. :thumb:

.
 
#45 ·
There is indeed something to lose by using a FF rail with a front sight mounted to it,
I wouldn't argue that at all. If your using irons no reason to bother with FFing. I'd no more use a front sight on a FF (as any thing other than an emergency short trange backup) than I would mount an optic on one.

I guess it depends on if you want an AR-10 for long range firepower or as a short range blaster and prybar.
 
#47 ·
I want iron sights on all my guns in the first year. Maybe it's just my own quirk, but I learn to get a better feel for how it shoots by first using irons. I generally only take it to the range during the first year as well. Then I feel I can graduate with that gun for regular duty. It might be all in my head, but it works for me.

Then I'll slap on the optic and go try it in the boonies. If it's red dot or holo sight I typically leave on the iron sights to co-witness. Lately I've picked up these 45 degree iron sights to mount without messing with my regular scoped rifles. I'm not fully sold on using them yet, but since they don't get in the way of my scope I'm not real concerned. These aren't walk and shoot guns. Right now I'm not so great with these offset sights so I'm waiting to see if they are just a crap idea or I just need to get used to them. But they are affordable and easy to install or swap out with.
 
#46 ·
I didn’t want to mess with figuring out compatibility issues with building my own so I bought an Aero Precision M5. It’s DPMS pattern and I hunt elk with it. Works great.

I did upgrade it to the nickel boron coated bolt carrier group and a Geissle trigger.

I’m most impressed with the way the upper is made to mount the free float rail directly on it.

It’s been very accurate, never a hiccup.
 
#56 ·
I like Aero, used their receivers to build mine, and would have no problem buying a complete M5 from them. They sometimes have some really cool custom cerakote designs too. At the moment, they are out of stock on ALL complete 308 rifles!

That shopping holiday in general has become far less in value over the past decade. The better deals now seem to be the product dumping in October to make room for Xmas gear or in the post Xmas dumping. Black Friday seems to have evolved into a tease and squeeze event, imo.
There are some really awesome deals around that time. I built my AR308 out of parts from a dozen different places, and I got most of them last year from Oct-Dec. I spent $1,269 total, but ended up saving about $600 over buying everything full price.

Stag usually has some very good cyber Monday deals but you have to jump on them.
I picked up a left hand kit last year for $100 under their normal “sale” price with free shipping.
This allowed me to build my daughter her own lefty rifle for under $400 including the Stag lower I picked up locally.

Lifetime warranty, lifetime barrel warranty, transferable warranty.
I’ve never shot one of their .308’s (that I can recall) but I’ve had plenty of experience with their AR15’s.
I like Stag too, that's who sold me my barrel. :thumb: It has a nice profile and taper. I'd have no problem buying a complete Stag rifle and they get good reviews.

.
 
#50 ·
I have no promises other than they are affordable enough and easy to put in and take out.

I can hit paper decently out to the limit at my urban range at 100yds, but that's not saying much on any AR. But it is better that eyeballing if you bork your scope a few miles away from hunting supply camp. At least that big buck won't fart and laugh in your general direction from across the field when your scope goes out. Even if not the greatest they definitely seem of value after SHTF when you might have to treat your scopes rough. Might be handy up your way if you are dealing with a problem mountain lion and he sneaks around too close for scope work. When you turn around and see him on a ledge 50 feet up you'll be happy to have irons instead of trying to glass him that close.

Wait till black friday
That shopping holiday in general has become far less in value over the past decade. The better deals now seem to be the product dumping in October to make room for Xmas gear or in the post Xmas dumping. Black Friday seems to have evolved into a tease and squeeze event, imo.

Or do you know something specific? Otherwise, once I find a deal I can live with then I'm going for it.
 
#54 ·
Stag usually has some very good cyber Monday deals but you have to jump on them.
I picked up a left hand kit last year for $100 under their normal “sale” price with free shipping.
This allowed me to build my daughter her own lefty rifle for under $400 including the Stag lower I picked up locally.

Lifetime warranty, lifetime barrel warranty, transferable warranty.
I’ve never shot one of their .308’s (that I can recall) but I’ve had plenty of experience with their AR15’s.
 
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