Looking at picking up one of these used. I somehow managed to talk the wife into selling her Charger Daytona. She agrees that the economy is going to **** and a good 4X4 might be more useful than a sports car. If we don't sell it now there might not be a market for it if things get worse. The important thing is that i remain debt free in the process which should not be difficult since the car has held it's value pretty well and is on excellent condition.
Barring EMP it does everything I want it to do and then some. The 4 doors are great with 2 kids and a large breed dog. I already have a full size truck for hauling gear. I know nothing about working on cars so it matters little to me that i would need a diagnostic computer to troubleshoot problems. I just need something that will be a good daily driver if things stay good or a solid BOV if things go south (suburbs to grandma's house in the sticks = 3-4 hrs on back roads).
The plan. Gas, guns, ammo, food, water, my BOB, and one kid in the truck. More food and water, the wife's BOB and guns'n'ammo, the other kid and the dog in the jeep. Off to grandma's house we go.
So does anyone have any experience with this model or am I overlooking something important when it come to BOV selection?
I would think it would make a great BOV. I'd personally have one if I could afford it. I've always liked the Wranglers but didn't like that they were only two door. Not good if you have kids. The Unlimited seems perfect, at least to me.
I have a 2 door 07 and love it. I have had several Jeeps over the years and the Jk has been the best in my eyes. That being said, it is a Jeep and does not handle like a SUV. They do have their quirks and are a little noisy because of the soft top.
I would suggest checking out a few or the Jeep forums specific to the Jk. You will find allot of good information on them and you will be able to see what they are capable of and what can be done to them to make them better.
It will make an EXCELLENT bug out vehicle! I wish I could afford one. Plus there are a ton of aftermarket goodies you can buy for it... you can buy a relatively cheap (couple hundred bucks) lift for it, and put 35" tires on it, there are a million options for these things!!
Check out Jeepforum.com which is probably the best Jeep website there is, and also pick up JP magazine, and check it out on the web too!
I personally have a 94 Cherokee which is the closest thing I could get to the 4 door wrangler... its a very capable vehicle in its own right...
It will make an EXCELLENT bug out vehicle! I wish I could afford one. Plus there are a ton of aftermarket goodies you can buy for it... you can buy a relatively cheap (couple hundred bucks) lift for it, and put 35" tires on it, there are a million options for these things!!
Check out Jeepforum.com which is probably the best Jeep website there is, and also pick up JP magazine, and check it out on the web too!
I personally have a 94 Cherokee which is the closest thing I could get to the 4 door wrangler... its a very capable vehicle in its own right...
Yeah, a 2-1/2" lift and 35's will clear with no problem, 33's will actually fit with no mods (other than taking off the air dam). And another vote for JeepForum.com , also jkowners.com is a good one.
Well GTG then. Since there are some jeep enthusiasts on here, heres another question (de-railing my own thread, thats ok right?
I have a buddy that says be careful with the new X sport models as they put in a cheesy drive train. He said I should get the Sahara or an X model with a stock tow package to ensure I get the better gear ratio.
Any thoughts? Will also check the forums you guys mentioned. Thanks.
With the X (with the tow package), Sahara or Rubicon you would get a Dana 44 rear end with 411 gears. The X (and Sahara I think) will have a Dana 30 front axle, but the Rubicon will have a Dana 44 front axle with lockers front and rear, along with a push button sway bar disconnect.
I am not positive on the Sahara info, but I think it's correct.
If you have the money, out of the box the Rubicon would be the way to go. But I have a X with the Dana 44 rear and Dana 30 front and have not found anything I have had a trouble going through or over.
Hope that helps. The Jeep forums will be a big help.
I rented a Jeep 4x4 in Red River New Mexico when we were there to drive through the mountains. I was very disapointed with it. It was the most uncomfortable 4x4 i ever drove. It lacked power and handling was horrible. I'd take an older model American V8 4x4 as a BOV anyday.
I'm not trying to offend any Jeep owners, this was just my personal experience with one. It was a rental for off roading, so maybe people just beat the living **** out of it?
Great vehicles. I bought one for my wife and she loves it. I do recommend getting the hardtop for it.
We have driven jeeps for years and they are great vehicles. We have two jeeps at the moment.
Our Cherokee had 291,000 miles on it when we gave it to our oldest daughter. She is still driving it with around 320,000 miles on it. Never went into the engine or transmission.
Any of them will work great as a BOV, but if you can find a Rubicon go for it. It'll do just fine off-road without any need for upgrades.
edited to add: Make sure it's an actual Rubicon. I've seen a lot of Jeep owners buy the lesser models and put Rubicon stickers on them. You should be able to tell if you Google the VIN.
Hey there, i have this exact looking jeep, 2010 stock with the 2 door soft top and its pretty cool to see my exact jeep ( color and everything ) lifted, i havent gotten a lift or tires and ive been deciding what i want to get, can you tell me what you’re running on yours ? Thanks !
Wow a 7 year zombie thread. Perhaps the OP will update us on how his Jeep is working out.
From what I have heard the 2018 has been updated for both on and off road capabilities and is supposed to be the best yet. Will also offer a diesel engine.
Jeep gets consistently some of the poorest consumer report ratings. Their short wheel base perform poorly in slippery, snowy, icy road conditions. The amount of money it takes to buy upgrades to make a Jeep a worthy BOV could be mitigated by just buying a reliable truck or similar vehicle.
Your paying for the cool factor of owning a Jeep. It's like the outdoorsman option for combatting a midlife crisis, like a Miami retiree and his Corvette. Every Jeep may as well just come with a free set of hair plugs, a testosterone prescription, and ED pills.
I suspect the bad ratings are from people who buy a jeep and expect it to be a cadillac.
I've driven jeeps. I've driven trucks. I've driven on dirt roads every day of my adult life and live in BFE. Jeeps have their issues -- they're noisy, the ride's harsh, they are not the most reliable vehicles, then can be an expensive PITA to fix -- but if I'm dealing with mud up to my axles, miles of road made of up basketball to fridge sized rocks, or slick rock, or even snow, I'll take a jeep.
I got my silverado stuck one time on the sandy shoulder of a highway when I stopped for a dust storm. That would never happen with a jeep.
OK... From my previous week's experience and discussions with Jeep dealers and hunting on internet forums...
First and foremost, all Jeeps made after 2010 (I also believe back as far as 2004 with some models) there is a device called the Wireless Control Module or WCM. If you get an older jeep this wont apply.
if the WCM goes out (a very common occurrence) the vehicle CANNOT start.
OK... Also understand that unless you really know your stuff, you will not be able to bypass this system.
Secondly. this applies to all TJ and later type Jeeps (yes I know there are other versions) anything 2010 or later with an automatic transmission does not have a manual disconnect. Without that disconnect, you cannot flat tow (dinghy tow) the jeep.
From the Wrangler owners' manual:
When towing a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited for recreational towing — such as behind a motorhome — you must tow with “four wheels down” (as opposed to using a tow dolly), because... internal damage to the transfer case will occur if a front or rear wheel lift is used when recreational towing!”
First, the transfer case must be shifted into NEUTRAL. Here’s how to do that:
1. Start with the key in the “accessory” position.
2. Depress the brake pedal.
3. Shift the automatic transmission into NEUTRAL (N) or depress clutch pedal on manual transmission.
4. Shift the transfer case level into NEUTRAL (N).
5. Start the engine.
6. Shift the automatic transmission into DRIVE (D) or the manual transmission into gear.
7. Release the brake pedal and ensure that there is no vehicle movement. 8. IMPORTANT: Shut the engine off and place the ignition key into the unlocked OFF position.*
9. Shift the automatic transmission into PARK (P).
10. Apply the parking brake.
11. Attach the Jeep to the tow vehicle with a tow bar.**
12. Release the parking brake.
...towing-a-jeep-wrangler-four-wheels-down.jpg *Damage to the transmission may occur if the transmission is shifted into PARK (P) with the transfer case in NEUTRAL (N) and the engine running!
**Do not use a bumper mounted clamp-on tow bar on the Jeep Wrangler Unlmited. The bumper face bar will be damaged.
Now why I am putting this out is because as I was having my little patriot serviced, I was looking into a Wrangler and asked them what happens if the thing breaks down somewhere outside of the city in the boonies or sticks..
The service manager told me flat out (direct quote BTW) "...bend over because your f'ing screwed..."
I bought my 2013 4 door Rubicon new, and I wish I would have paid attention to the gear ratio it was going to come with. I really want to put 35s on it, but with 3.73s Im worried about a huge loss of power. I might just put 33s on it, and a small lift... But everyone is right, its never going to be a Cadillac ride. But its also not a 1980 CJ5 either LOL..(I have one of those too)
The Rubicon rides fine, does great in all weather, not too loud..(hard top)... And it dominates in the snow...
Check the track bar mount on the axle to see if the bolt holes are wallowed out. 9 times out of 10 this is the problem. The easiest way to fix it is to weld hardened washers to the bracket to fix the holes.
I have been a Jeep fan for years, but I lean toward the older more simple CJ models. I have owned 3 CJ5s, and am currently doing a frame up build of a CJ7. They don't have anything close to the comfort of the newer Jeeps, but I don't like the complexity of all the modern electronics (that I don't understand well) in a vehicle for rough off road use.
I have a '99 Wrangler TJ Sport. Soft top, I-6 motor, 5 sp, 3.73 gears. It weighs under 2,000 lbs.
When I bought it I lived in the mojave desert and drive it on sand roads most of the time. I have not bothered to install larger tires, since it goes everywhere with the stock 30 x 9.5".
Jeeps seem to require a bit more maintenance than some other vehicles. Not a big problem for me, but it's something to consider. I would look closely at the vehicle wt if you are planning on a lot off road driving. Light is good.
I agree about the maintenance thing, and also the capability of older Jeeps with small-ish tires. Your weight is way off, though...your TJ is probably around 4,300 lbs., not 2000 lbs.
I've owned MANY Jeeps from all eras (and rebuilt several), the oldest being a 1955 M170, and the newest a 2014 Willys Wheeler JK. Older/simpler is better, and the price-to-capability ratio of the newer Jeeps is lacking, IMHO. I won't buy another new one, and once my wife's 2011 JKU dies, we'll replace it with a different brand. The 2007-2011 engines are known for consuming oil, too. Our 2011 started eating oil at 50K miles, and I have a recurring reminder to add (expensive Mobil-1) oil every 2 weeks.
I would totally consider having a simple, inexpensive, capable older Jeep again, though.
I wish I had a unlimited rubi, I have a 2 dr sport. I have had that thing in places I never thought it would go. I am glad I got the 2012 with the 3.6 motor, ALOT more power than the old motor. Also I got a standard. I think an auto would be better as a BOV, leaves your shifter hand free for other things. I did not go bigger tires and wheels because it is a standard. need bigger gears for that. Just got some rubi take offs and put 1" pucks to lift it a wee bit and I can go a lot of places even big tire jeeps go.
I'm always amazed by the resale value of Jeep Wranglers. In my part of Missouri 17 year old Wranglers go for insane $. Where most 17 year old vehicles sell for $3500 (used trade in value) Jeep Wranglers are going $8k to $12K.
If I bought new or used it would have to have a manual transmission. Auto in a Wrangler is just wrong.
Friend of mine has 2 small children in baby seats. He only drives 4x4 manual transmission vehicles. He wanted 4x4, manual transmission, and specifically side airbags for the kido's.
His side airbag requirement ruled out the Wrangler which left him the choices of Toyota Tacoma or Nissan Frontier. Tried the Tacoma and didn't fit in it. Went with the Nissan Frontier Pro4X.
If you want to see "insane" resale value...take a look at what Early Broncos (66-77) are selling for now. Someone I know is looking at getting $45K for a vehicle that originally sold for around $4K new.
I bought a 73 CJ5 off a kid that is bud of my son. It was going to be a project for the son and I. It never happen and I have no time for it. I'm going to sale it an use the money for a motor or another 70's model truck. Jeeps are great if you can work on them yourself. If you do not care to work on them then not so fun LOL.
The full size GMC Jimmy/Chevy Blazer just better BOV in my opinion.
I have a '99 Wrangler TJ Sport. Soft top, I-6 motor, 5 sp, 3.73 gears. It weighs under 3216 lbs.
When I bought it I lived in the mojave desert and drive it on sand roads most of the time. I have not bothered to install larger tires, since it goes everywhere with the stock 30 x 9.5".
Jeeps seem to require a bit more maintenance than some other vehicles. Not a big problem for me, but it's something to consider. I would look closely at the vehicle wt if you are planning on a lot off road driving. Light is good.
I've got an 2006 Unlimited Rubicon. I love it. I keep as near as new like condition as my wallet allows. LOL
I have both hard and soft tops, winches, bumpers, OME 2" lift with Currie Johnny Joint upper and lower track bars. Just replace parts as they need it. I do the work myself, including the lift.
My lift, before the Currie track bar and control arms gave way to a bit of wobble. It came down to a worn wheel bearing, and the control arm bushing had worn (rubber portion in the end and the steel insert had gone oblong). Easy fix, just an expensive upgrade.
I also just replaced the exhaust catalytic converters and O2 sensors with AP and NGK OEM parts. And at 100k I overhauled the cooling system by replacing the radiator, hoses, thermostat, water pump, gaskets, coolant, etc. So this year was a bit expensive but still way cheaper than a car payment and my particular jeep seems to be one of the most desired ones so It holds value well. I will likely go ahead and tackle U-joints to start the year off.
I wheel somewhat often so no other vehicle would fare better. i even had a Tacoma TRD Offroad, but prefer the jeep for the most part. I wish I could have both!
As a BOV, my jeep is severely lacking space for my family of 4 plug a wolfhound. For all but the worst situation where extreme mobility is needed I have a 3/4 Suburban 4X4.
The reality is that in most cases you better beat the masses or you are stuck, unless you have a dirt bike. If you are ahead of the masses a 3/4 ton or better 1 ton truck with a shell on the back is likely better as you'll be able to carry the sustainment gear. Of course those are mighty pricy.
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