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Old 06-10-2019, 05:38 PM
rob_clement rob_clement is offline
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Hi Everyone,
I have asked questions before and had excellent response. So I have been researching holly to see how to propagate these bushes,or trees.Problem is the info varies wildly.Has anyone her actually had success?I did try what one site said and in early spring took a cutting off new growth,put it in rootone and put in a pot.Weeks later they were dead,no roots even looked like they started.Same result last fall(another site said you have to do in fall) same results.Any ideas as these make excellent barrier/privacy screen.
Thanks
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Old 06-10-2019, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rob_clement View Post
Hi Everyone,
I have asked questions before and had excellent response. So I have been researching holly to see how to propagate these bushes,or trees.Problem is the info varies wildly.Has anyone her actually had success?I did try what one site said and in early spring took a cutting off new growth,put it in rootone and put in a pot.Weeks later they were dead,no roots even looked like they started.Same result last fall(another site said you have to do in fall) same results.Any ideas as these make excellent barrier/privacy screen.
Thanks
Rooting Holly cuttings is as hard as rooting mulberry. I've rooted both. My first attempts with mulberry failed because I failed to keep the exposed part of the cutting moist.

Holly is the same, don't let the cutting dry out. Being retired, I had plenty of time to mist them several times a day for a long period of time, ( ialmost a month and a half) until the root on a few cuttings took and were able to sustain the plant.

An automatic misting system would be best for these. Like mulberry, plant way more cuttings than u need --- not all will take,. --- in my case maybe 10 percent.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:03 PM
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Make sure you have prince AND princess plants if you go with that type. 1 prince to 3 or 4 princess plants works pretty well. Also watch out for really hot temps and/or lack of moisture.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:12 PM
rob_clement rob_clement is offline
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Thanks workquick,maybe that's the problem,I watered 2x a day but it probably dried out some,when did you take your cuttings.early spring or late fall or another time.That is where im confused.From what I read it's about 30/30/30 on opinions.

old fart,how do you tell prince and princess,never heard of that.
Once again Thank you all

Last edited by rob_clement; 06-10-2019 at 08:14 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Old 06-11-2019, 12:26 AM
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Here is a link that explains it pretty well.

https://www.thespruce.com/difference...bushes-2132269

While I was looking, I found out there is now a combination M/F bush (almost certainly grafted).

I looked at the tags on the plants when I bought mine in early spring (before flowers appeared) several years ago. IIRC, 2 M (prince) plants and 7 F (princess) plants. Never did any cuttings from those, but I did take cuttings from a holly tree at another house for the neighbors
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Old 06-11-2019, 07:35 AM
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Hi Everyone,
So I have been researching holly to see how to propagate these bushes,or trees. Problem is the info varies wildly.
I worked in a large production nursery for 18 years and am passing along a few basic tips gleaned over the years about rooting cuttings.

There are several basic keys to success of rooting cuttings, the most important factors being the type of "wood" (new flush, hardened flush, year old, etc) and growing environment (soil, water, etc). Age of wood is critical when trying to root hardwood plants whereas in softwood plants age is not as critical. Our propagation crews had specific times of the year when they'd take thousands of cuttings from various types of shrubs, etc.

Stems of properly selected and freshly cut cuttings are prepared by making a 45 degree angle cut on the stem end best for maximum exposure of cambium tissue and just before dipping the end about 1/2" to 3/4" in rooting hormone. Carefully insert the prepped cutting into a premade hole (I like to use a pencil) in damp potting medium about 1/2" to 3/4" deep and firm soil around the cutting. Just sticking a cutting into soil will rub off the rooting powder.

Stuck cuttings should be kept moist, never wet or they will rot. If I'm doing a few I put the small cutting pots on styrofoam trays (like grocery meat comes in) so plants can be bottom watered when necessary. Then I cut the bottoms off 1 or 3 liter soda bottles (leave caps off) and put them over the individual pots of cuttings where they act like mini greenhouses, creating a humid environment and reducing the temptation to water too much. Leaving caps off the bottles encourages air flow to prevent too much humidity within.

The time it takes to get roots can vary greatly but in general the harder the wood the longer rooting takes. It took about four weeks to get rosemary cuttings to root. After a time (at least two weeks after sticking the cuttings) you can very gently tug on the cutting and it there is resistance, you have rooting going on. If not, it's more of the waiting game.

Horticulturist Dr. Michael Dirr, a former UGA professor and one of the foremost experts on woody plants, has a marvelous reference titled Manual Of Woody Landscape Plants which discusses in depth the description, culture and propagation of hundreds of plant genera and their varieties. In that book, Dr. Dirr offers the following about the propagation of hollies:

"There are, no doubt, differences among species and cultivars but I have had excellent success with 1000-3000 ppm IBA-quick dip, peat-perlite, mist. Bottom heat is often helpful. Thousands of hollies have been rooted in our research work. For most species and cultivars, we take cuttings when the first flush of growth has hardened and treat with a rooting compound like IBA...June, July, August and September cuttings rooted in extremely high percentages."

IBA (indole-3-butyric acid) is a plant hormone used to stimulate rooting and not easily available outside the commercial hort community so we gardeners settle for various rooting powders (Rootone, et al) that contain rooting hormones.

I hope this information helps. What I have offered is merely what has worked for me. No doubt others use different methods that work for them. The fun of it all is the journey to find what works for you! Good luck and have fun!
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Old 06-11-2019, 01:01 PM
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Good concise read on DIY stem cuttings of all sorts

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/plant-p...-home-gardener

I have done literally thousands of stem cuttings (grapes & many others)

Commercial nursery pots, good potting soil & rooting hormone.
Cut bottom end at a sharp angle, top end flat.

I use thin translucent waste paper basket liners to tent the potted cuttings.

I use painters masking tape to tape the tent bag bottom to the pot

Set tented pots in a shallow container & bottom water.

Holds moisture / humidity very well.

Use a soldering iron, cigarette, incense stick etc., to melt 1/2 dozen or more holes in the bag so there is ambient air exchange inside the tent.

Set tented pots in bright INDIRECT sunlight.

Case of 1000

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Old 09-15-2019, 07:24 PM
rob_clement rob_clement is offline
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I wanted to pop back in and thank once again,worquik,old fart,and weedinhoe as well as bunkerbuster for the help and info.Started 12 cuttings and 10 of them took root.I am amazed at the amount of help and understanding from folks on here/so THANK YOU all for the responses.
Rob
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Old 09-15-2019, 07:41 PM
PalmettoTree PalmettoTree is offline
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I have had better luck just collecting volunteer plants than anything. I am beginning to think mashing the berries in bird poop is the secret.
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Old 09-15-2019, 10:02 PM
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My favorite propagation tricks for rooting cuttings:

I make a natural "rooting hormone" solution by making a tea of willow twigs and water, and use this to soak the cut end of the cutting for a few hours before inserting it into the damp rooting medium (vermiculite or sand).

To make the willow tea: simmer a small handful of chopped twigs taken from the greenest willow branches (newest, first year growth is best) in a cup of water for a few minutes and allow to cool and soak for 12-24 hours before straining. I like to either refrigerate it (use within 3 days), or make a fresh batch as needed because it can spoil just like any herbal tea.

After inserting the cuttings in the medium, I place the whole shebang into a plastic bag, blow into it and tie it off at the top, taking care to ensure that the bag is filled with CO2-rich air and away from the leaves of the cutting as much as possible. Every few days, I release the air and refill with fresh CO2-rich air.

The tent provides constant moisture, and what plant does not like a shot of carbon dioxide?

Speaking of leaves, I pinch off all but about 6 - 8 leaves from each cutting to encourage rooting.
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