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Old 10-09-2016, 01:26 PM
chuck c chuck c is offline
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Problem solved ! Must have just been a bad connection. I went through all coils, connectors etc and cleaned it all made sure it was all correct and snugged up. So I'm guessing what i did last night fixed it and just missed something when I hooked it all back up..
Thanks for all the input guys!

Last edited by chuck c; 10-09-2016 at 01:27 PM.. Reason: Cause I'm a moron and hit post before I was done
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Old 10-14-2016, 08:14 AM
kingroot kingroot is offline
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I need help to connect this device for performance tuning my F150 2015 model: https://www.bcdiesel.ca/en/sct-x4-po...ammer-off-road. if anybody know how to locate OBDII port please help me
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Old 10-14-2016, 08:21 AM
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There you go.
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Old 12-23-2016, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edward4576 View Post
Ahhh the wiggle test

Wire
Integration
Gross
Gyration
Looseness
Exam
HeeHee I remember the first time I came across the wiggle test. It was on early to late 80 fords whose wire harnesses were made in MEJICO!! It was the ONLY manufacturer with this as an official test. Too Funny. I am not a FORD fan, but I have made good $$$$$$$$$$ working on them, especially their AC's.
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:42 PM
kotterr kotterr is offline
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I had a broken alternator taken out of a car. How can I test if the problem is with bad (worn) brushes?
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:21 PM
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I have a 2005 Chevy Impala, runs great, but it doesn't like being started more than a few times within a couple hours. Sometimes after being out and making a couple stops, I go to turn the car on and it cranks for a few seconds, but eventually starts and stabilizes and is perfect for the rest of the ride. Any ideas?
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSixthFooFighter View Post
I have a 2005 Chevy Impala, runs great, but it doesn't like being started more than a few times within a couple hours. Sometimes after being out and making a couple stops, I go to turn the car on and it cranks for a few seconds, but eventually starts and stabilizes and is perfect for the rest of the ride. Any ideas?
3800 or 3.4?
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Old 03-08-2017, 05:33 PM
tom42 tom42 is offline
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"Hit everything with a blast of "PB Blaster" before beginning work or disassembly."

This is great stuff. Having worked on old cars for years-1930's and up, I wish it was available years ago. WD-40 is useless, Liquid wrench in the yellow can fairly good, but nowhere near as good as PB.
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Old 03-09-2017, 07:22 PM
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I just put new Goodyear's on my 2010 Honda Odyssey. They did an alignment for me at the same time and the guy tells me the right rear camber is at -1.3. He said the spec is +.3 to -1.3. So my right rear is at the edge of spec. He said they can't adjust it anymore without some kind of "link". He said drive it but watch for tread wear on that tire. When I asked him how much it would cost to get the link to adjust it further he said he didn't know because he hadn't been able to find one. Anybody know what he's talking about with this "link". Also did he give me ok advice to go ahead and drive it even though it's right at the limit of spec?
Thanks!
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Old 03-09-2017, 09:07 PM
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Israel Putnam Israel Putnam is offline
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Originally Posted by TMOD View Post
I just put new Goodyear's on my 2010 Honda Odyssey. They did an alignment for me at the same time and the guy tells me the right rear camber is at -1.3. He said the spec is +.3 to -1.3. So my right rear is at the edge of spec. He said they can't adjust it anymore without some kind of "link". He said drive it but watch for tread wear on that tire. When I asked him how much it would cost to get the link to adjust it further he said he didn't know because he hadn't been able to find one. Anybody know what he's talking about with this "link". Also did he give me ok advice to go ahead and drive it even though it's right at the limit of spec?
Thanks!
I've never done a Honda Oddssey, but he's talking about the rear camber link (Lateral Link).
In easy to understand terms its a rod that's threaded on both ends that by turning the sleeve in the center pushes or pulls the part needing adjustment.
It's basically a tie rod for the rear end.

I found this as the first result on Google:
https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...autoModClar=LX

I'd suggest another alignment shop if he says he couldn't find one.

As for driving it, it's still within spec, and even a little out of spec shouldn't cause major, if any, abnormal tire wear.
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Israel Putnam View Post
I've never done a Honda Oddssey, but he's talking about the rear camber link (Lateral Link).
In easy to understand terms its a rod that's threaded on both ends that by turning the sleeve in the center pushes or pulls the part needing adjustment.
It's basically a tie rod for the rear end.

I found this as the first result on Google:
https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...autoModClar=LX

I'd suggest another alignment shop if he says he couldn't find one.

As for driving it, it's still within spec, and even a little out of spec shouldn't cause major, if any, abnormal tire wear.
That's what I was hoping to hear.
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Old 03-29-2017, 11:41 PM
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I have an open ended question that I'm not really looking for a specific answer for but more of a "how hard will this be" type of thing.

I'm in the market for a farm truck. Shooting for a chevy or gmc with 5.3 since they seem plentiful and I'd guess motor replacements are everywhere. If I have a guy who is reliable and says he could help with the swap of a blown 5.3 if necessary, how expensive/difficult is a job like that? My experience is essentially limited to minor tinkering with a 65 chevy 327 in high school - though we did swap the power glide for a turbo 350.
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Old 04-09-2017, 04:52 PM
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I hope you guys can help me out. I have a 1989 GMC 1500 truck 2wd auto with a 305. Have got it less than 2 months ago. I drove it home and no problems. I knew had to replace the radiator as it had a hole/crack on the plastic and had JB Weld on it. So i get a new t stat (195) and gasket,upper hose,radiator and cap. Flushed it and start truck with flush cleaner stuff and goes to almost red line. Cut the truck off and drain. Keeps going to the red line(not driving it). Flushed it again today and start it and still goes to the red line. Will put antifreeze in tonight or tomorrow. Anyone help me. Also noticed the t stat housing area looked a little wet and thank you
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:36 PM
saln saln is offline
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Originally Posted by tooltime View Post
I hope you guys can help me out. I have a 1989 GMC 1500 truck 2wd auto with a 305. Have got it less than 2 months ago. I drove it home and no problems. I knew had to replace the radiator as it had a hole/crack on the plastic and had JB Weld on it. So i get a new t stat (195) and gasket,upper hose,radiator and cap. Flushed it and start truck with flush cleaner stuff and goes to almost red line. Cut the truck off and drain. Keeps going to the red line(not driving it). Flushed it again today and start it and still goes to the red line. Will put antifreeze in tonight or tomorrow. Anyone help me. Also noticed the t stat housing area looked a little wet and thank you
How long does it take to go to red line after starting it from cold? Will it go to redline with just turning the ignition switch on and waiting a few min?

Was it going to redline before the rad change out?

Have you measured the temp of the coolant when it is at red line to make sure the temp sending unit or gage isn't bad/reading higher than it really is?

Is the water pump really pumping? Fan belt not slipping?

Have you tried running it w/o a thermostat? New one could be bad. Put it in a pan of water on the stove, only heat to 195 and make sure it opens.
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Old 04-09-2017, 07:22 PM
tooltime tooltime is offline
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Originally Posted by saln View Post
How long does it take to go to red line after starting it from cold? Will it go to redline with just turning the ignition switch on and waiting a few min?

Was it going to redline before the rad change out?

Have you measured the temp of the coolant when it is at red line to make sure the temp sending unit or gage isn't bad/reading higher than it really is?

Is the water pump really pumping? Fan belt not slipping?

Have you tried running it w/o a thermostat? New one could be bad. Put it in a pan of water on the stove, only heat to 195 and make sure it opens.
It goes to red line I say 10 or so mins. I drove it home and it was fine when i got it. Next time drove it about a week later i drove it to take trash off and it did not over heat but antifreeze was coming out on the cap side. No did not try w/o the t stat. The belt looks fine but did put a new tensioner and not sure about the water pump. Was told the t stat was already opened and put it on the stove and it did not pop
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Old 04-09-2017, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tooltime View Post
It goes to red line I say 10 or so mins. I drove it home and it was fine when i got it. Next time drove it about a week later i drove it to take trash off and it did not over heat but antifreeze was coming out on the cap side. No did not try w/o the t stat. The belt looks fine but did put a new tensioner and not sure about the water pump. Was told the t stat was already opened and put it on the stove and it did not pop
Are you sure you put your Thermostat in right side up? If you put it in upside down it will not work and it will heat up fast.
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Old 04-09-2017, 11:41 PM
minitruck83 minitruck83 is offline
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Are you sure you put your Thermostat in right side up? If you put it in upside down it will not work and it will heat up fast.
Or stuck from the factory.
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Old 04-10-2017, 08:36 PM
tooltime tooltime is offline
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Are you sure you put your Thermostat in right side up? If you put it in upside down it will not work and it will heat up fast.
Yes it is in right
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:46 AM
saln saln is offline
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The only thing that has changed that could affect this, short of a new clogged radiator, is the t stat. Take it out and run it and see if it goes to redline. If you can avoiding 200 deg coolant in your face, measure the temp of the coolant when it hits redline and make sure it really is what the temp gage says it is.

Its either the stat, a bad cap that wont allow the system to pressurize, an electrical fault on the sending unit, a clogged rad, bad pump, clogged water passages in the engine, collapsed hoses.

You or anyone else didn't pour any "stop leak" crap in this thing do you?

Is the fan clutch doing its job or is it direct drive?
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Old 04-11-2017, 09:10 PM
tooltime tooltime is offline
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Originally Posted by saln View Post
The only thing that has changed that could affect this, short of a new clogged radiator, is the t stat. Take it out and run it and see if it goes to redline. If you can avoiding 200 deg coolant in your face, measure the temp of the coolant when it hits redline and make sure it really is what the temp gage says it is.

Its either the stat, a bad cap that wont allow the system to pressurize, an electrical fault on the sending unit, a clogged rad, bad pump, clogged water passages in the engine, collapsed hoses.

You or anyone else didn't pour any "stop leak" crap in this thing do you?

Is the fan clutch doing its job or is it direct drive?
The old radiator had a crack in the plastic and had JB Weld and sure it had stop leak in there. I drained the radiator Sunday and then filled the radiator and then took the heater hose off and put water in the plug. Got stuff in the radiator(rust,dirt etc?) Last night i drained it again and put water in as well as the heater hose. Today started it and had heat. The heater hose was Very hot and the rad hoses was hot but not as hot and yes it did go close to red line before turned it off. How can i tell if the passage is clogged? If the water pump is bad etc could that do this? Dont see no leakage. Thanks
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