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Old 04-11-2017, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by saln View Post
The only thing that has changed that could affect this, short of a new clogged radiator, is the t stat. Take it out and run it and see if it goes to redline. If you can avoiding 200 deg coolant in your face, measure the temp of the coolant when it hits redline and make sure it really is what the temp gage says it is.

Its either the stat, a bad cap that wont allow the system to pressurize, an electrical fault on the sending unit, a clogged rad, bad pump, clogged water passages in the engine, collapsed hoses.

You or anyone else didn't pour any "stop leak" crap in this thing do you?

Is the fan clutch doing its job or is it direct drive?
Can you confirm that you say you bought a new radiator and installed it?
If so, why did you flush it?

I bought a van that the previous owner had put an aftermarket radiator into.
it was overheating and I noticed some idiot had painted the inside of the radiator tank. The paint was like flexible rubber and was peeling off and plugging the tubes.

Just a thought.

I wonder also of runnigng an infrared thermostat gun all along the fins might reveal some cold fins indicating a blockage.

if your fan belt is slipping or squeeling or you are hearing any bearing noise, it might be the water pump is bad.

I might change it anyway just as a precaution at this point and also try running without the thermostat.
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Old 04-12-2017, 12:36 AM
The Old Coach The Old Coach is online now
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Maybe someone more familiar with that specific engine/vehicle will know :

Is this a system that has to be "burped" to get all the air out when refilling? If there's a big bubble in the water jacket it's possible that coolant isn't circulating. Check a service manual. Get one if you haven't already got one.

I'm strikly a Ford man, so know little about things GM. Other than that they were the most dishonest company I ever had to deal with in my entire career, and I did five or six years dealing with the D.o.D.
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Old 04-12-2017, 01:11 AM
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GM trucks and the small block are not difficult to "burp". All radiators/cooling systems require some effort to remove excess air but that is as simple on a Chevy as leaving the cap off and waiting for the t-stat to open.

To the OP with overheating issues. If your t-stat isn't opening then it will redline. If the water pump isn't circulating coolant after the t-stat opens then it is your culprit. Leave the cap off the radiator. Fill with water. Start motor. When it gets to operating temp the t-stat should open (180*?195*??). When it opens you should see coolant flowing generally in one direction in the radiator. Sometimes you have to crack the throttle a little for it to be obvious it's moving. If it isn't then you probably are ready to do a pump.
Also, if you can use a thermostat like you use in the kitchen or for BBQ to read the actual coolant temp in the radiator you will know if it's actually getting hot or if the temp sending unit/gauge is bad. Then it becomes an electrical hunt.
Last worry is if it is losing coolant but not from a leak. A bad head gasket can cause heat issues. Hopefully it's an easy fix. Good luck!


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Old 05-06-2017, 10:24 PM
kotterr kotterr is offline
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Default 2002 Prius trunk lining flammable?

Looks like this: http://gtcarlot.com/data/Toyota/Priu...-38371526.html

I may need to use a hot air gun to unglue something attached with hot glue. I was just wondering if there was any chance of lighting anything on fire.
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Old 05-08-2017, 04:23 AM
Tacamo Tacamo is offline
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I recently asked a car parts store to check my battery. When she did she also 'checked' my alternator claiming my voltage regulator was going bad.

Short question; is this a viable test and if so, can you expect the V/R to crap out at a certain point in time or, are we just rolling the dice?

My general thinking was electronics either were working or weren't.

Not sure model is relevant but, Hyundai Sonata 2009; 70K.

Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacamo View Post
I recently asked a car parts store to check my battery. When she did she also 'checked' my alternator claiming my voltage regulator was going bad.

Short question; is this a viable test and if so, can you expect the V/R to crap out at a certain point in time or, are we just rolling the dice?

My general thinking was electronics either were working or weren't.

Not sure model is relevant but, Hyundai Sonata 2009; 70K.

Thanks.
Before the mid 70's voltage regulators used to go bad all the time. But I haven't heard of one doing so since.

They used to be a good sized box with some sort of bimetalic spring/contacts in it (I think), mounted somewhat near the battery. I replaced a few, but not sure what was in the box. It was not a tiny IC or anything. Today, I imagine most are fancy semiconductor stuff that has a much lower failure rate.

I have no idea what a Hyundai uses though.

More recently, bad/corroded wire connections, and bad batteries seem to be more likely.

To test a battery, you need to isolate it and connect it to a large load and measure voltage drop. The tester will get hot like a toaster.

To test the voltage regulator, run at fast idle and cycle the headlights and horn switches and watch battery voltage on a good voltmeter. In the old days you put the high beams on, then blew the horn. if the lights dimmed, the voltage regulator was suspect.

Todays lights might be different though, due to different bulb tech.

Today, I would check with an OBD tester and see what the codes said as a starting point.
You can get an OBD tester for like 8 bucks that uses your smart phone as the display/interface, via a bluetooth link.
Or go to an auto parts place and they will pull the codes for free usually.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:37 AM
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Thanks. I did a quick review using a DVM of voltage and amperage at the (connected) battery. Everything looked ok to me but, I don't know what the specs are. The battery itself is fairly new.

I know old VRs; they were outboard the alternator and mechanical and cheap and easy to replace. This one is part of the alternator assembly and while mainly mechanical there are discrete circuit components.

I do know the headlights quickly dim when I start the car and it seems this is not normal.

Gonna go try the lights/horn trick to the annoyance of neighbors.

Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:47 AM
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First off what's the problem? Slow cranking engine?

99% of new cars have the regulator instide the alternator. When an alternator fails, it ...

Doesn't make charging voltage (13+ v.)
Or
Has a parisitic drain or mechanically fails.

You check the voltage (not amperage) at the battery when the engine is running. If it's over 13.0 it's fine. Sounds like you have another problem like a starter/battery/battery cables issue.
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Old 05-08-2017, 11:01 AM
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Actually no real problem, except headlights dim at start.

Voltage was well over 12v. No fails. No idiot lights. Starts quickly (not or cold) as it always has. No dragging Bendix.

Cables perfectly clean; no corrosion. Battery supposedly checked fine by parts store.

Beginning to wonder if the parts store is full of feces or just trying to sell me an alternator.

Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2017, 11:22 AM
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Sorry, forgot to ask. Someone said I couldn't check amperage at the battery.

Why is that so?

I have an inductive amperage probe on my DVOM.
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:51 AM
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If the only problem is that your headlights start out dim, you're probably fine. Cranking the motor uses a hefty bit of power and if your battery is running at 13V then the alternator is fine. Probably just takes a couple of minutes to recharge the battery after cranking
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Old 05-11-2017, 12:25 PM
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it would be appreciated if people would post the results of their investigations after coming on here and posting problems.
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:49 PM
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Will parking on a hill cause any problems with modern cars (2014 Chevy Sonic w/ 6 speed stick). The car will be tilted about 15 degrees to one side (D or P).
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzardB View Post
Will parking on a hill cause any problems with modern cars (2014 Chevy Sonic w/ 6 speed stick). The car will be tilted about 15 degrees to one side (D or P).
That's a new one for me, but picturing it in my head that's going to be a pretty good amount of slant.
That's a small car, not very wide but wow, that could make one side a foot or more lower than the other.
There should be no problem with oil not being on the pickup as the pan in not going to be wide enough for all the oil to run to one side and still not be covering the bottom of the pan.

The only problem I can think of possibly is if the fuel tank were to get low enough.
I suppose it's possible you could "run out" of gas if the tank was below maybe an 1/8th or less, maybe even a quarter depending on it's shape and width.

That's really a good question.
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:47 PM
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Freind of mine has a newish (2010 I think) bmw 7 series w a twin turbo v8.

He let it idle sitting in a steep driveway (facing uphill) for about 1-2 min and got back in it and the car stalled.

It ended up starving for fuel and wiped both of the high pressure (mechanical) fuel pumps out.

So be careful with running out of fuel if your car is direct injected.
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Old 05-20-2017, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacamo View Post
Sorry, forgot to ask. Someone said I couldn't check amperage at the battery.

Why is that so?

I have an inductive amperage probe on my DVOM.
What you were told was not correct

Yes you should check charging amperage
Checking only charging voltage is not an accurate test.

So yes...use your inductive amp probe to test your charging system
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Old 07-24-2017, 11:30 PM
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Hello, first I would like to say thank you for your thread. Second off, I would like to point out that I'm currently going to school for automotive repair and have been working on cars for 4 years now. How ever, most cars pre 1990 are fairly alien to me, I learned on newer OBD II equipped cars and older technology I'm still learning. I have a 1967 Buick Special v8 2 spd powerglide, 102k miles, all original motor, tranny, etc.. First off, it has a non-continuous misfire, environment doesn't seem to make any difference here. It will occasionally stall when accelerating or decelerating to or from a stop. The more gas I give it, the more likely it is to stall. Also, sometimes when accelerating the car will produce a loud "thump" from the front end, I can't tell if it's coming from the tranny or engine, but if it is from the tranny it sounds like an exploding gear every time. Also, sometimes a grinding will occur when accelerating, it comes from the bottom end, or when pressing the break and gas at the same time (maybe stuck brakes?), when this occurs, the car will continue to grind as long as I keep on the gas and will rise up off of the ground, while the exhaust lowers itself towards the ground. Also I've noticed it smells like it's running rich on an extreme acceleration.

Things I have checked:
Battery terminals & ground
Tranny fluid for cleanliness/metal shavings
Air filter
Engine oil for any scary impurities (excess water etc)
Any broken objects on underside
Catalytic converter checked and cleaned


As I recently purchased this car, and I have two other cars, one of which is in the process of a complete make over (engine and body), I haven't had time to tear this one apart yet. The strangest thing to me is the car is fine 99% of the time and many typical things I would suspect aren't occurant.
Thank you for your help

Ps. yes I am using the correct oils, fluids, fuel, etc., like I said I am in school to be a mechanic and am no stranger to cars, though older cars are foreign to me.

Im hoping this isn't a driveline issue as parts are rare
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Old 07-24-2017, 11:49 PM
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Might check motor/tranny mounts. If the engine moves with throttle (torque-stand, car in gear and gas applied while brakes are on) or maybe you can see the gear selector move a bit, this might be the clunking. Some GM cars with the distributor in the rear were known to bump the firewall when motor mounts were loose. The smell might burning transmission fluid.
I'm sure there are others here who can tell you more, but those are the things I'd check first.
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Old 07-25-2017, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUCDP View Post
Hello, first I would like to say thank you for your thread. Second off, I would like to point out that I'm currently going to school for automotive repair and have been working on cars for 4 years now. How ever, most cars pre 1990 are fairly alien to me, I learned on newer OBD II equipped cars and older technology I'm still learning. I have a 1967 Buick Special v8 2 spd powerglide, 102k miles, all original motor, tranny, etc.. First off, it has a non-continuous misfire, environment doesn't seem to make any difference here. It will occasionally stall when accelerating or decelerating to or from a stop. The more gas I give it, the more likely it is to stall. Also, sometimes when accelerating the car will produce a loud "thump" from the front end, I can't tell if it's coming from the tranny or engine, but if it is from the tranny it sounds like an exploding gear every time. Also, sometimes a grinding will occur when accelerating, it comes from the bottom end, or when pressing the break and gas at the same time (maybe stuck brakes?), when this occurs, the car will continue to grind as long as I keep on the gas and will rise up off of the ground, while the exhaust lowers itself towards the ground. Also I've noticed it smells like it's running rich on an extreme acceleration.

Things I have checked:
Battery terminals & ground
Tranny fluid for cleanliness/metal shavings
Air filter
Engine oil for any scary impurities (excess water etc)
Any broken objects on underside
Catalytic converter checked and cleaned


As I recently purchased this car, and I have two other cars, one of which is in the process of a complete make over (engine and body), I haven't had time to tear this one apart yet. The strangest thing to me is the car is fine 99% of the time and many typical things I would suspect aren't occurant.
Thank you for your help

Ps. yes I am using the correct oils, fluids, fuel, etc., like I said I am in school to be a mechanic and am no stranger to cars, though older cars are foreign to me.

Im hoping this isn't a driveline issue as parts are rare
Agree that you should check your motor mounts. Also in conjunction with grounding the engine block to the frame. this completes your spark circuit. Just hook a 12 gauge wire from any bolt on the engine block to a bolt on the frame. Motor mounts can crack over time and the motor moves more than it should
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:49 AM
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Your stalling is carburetor related.
Could be a multitude of problems but the richness you are smelling could point to a choke not working properly.

The squatting is the rear brakes.
I'd pull the drums and check for a loose spring jamming up in the shoes or at worst a shoe that has come off entirely.

I'd get these problems corrected before looking for your "thump" which may or may not be torque converter related due to the grabby brakes.

Also, a catalytic converter? Rip that thing off of there, I cannot believe it even has one.
Unless it's required by your state of course...

A complete tune up is also in order.
Plugs, wires, points, condenser, fuel filter...
Timing check.

These old cars need attention unlike to newer computer controlled ones, with an old car you are the computer.
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