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Unobtanium

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I discovered the stuff a few months back. It looked interesting, but it's made from plants, and I don't trust things that are marketed using the "SEAL" "Special Forces" or other types of name. It reminds me too much of Vulcan Arms, and EXTREME SHOK!!! ammunition.

Anyway, I bought some of it anyway, because I was curious about it.

The first thing I did was coat a few nails with it and then subject them to salt-water. They rusted about like any other common firearm lubricant would allow. Which is to say, it helped--some. I was kindof non-plussed, as regular old CLP did a lot better.

At this point, I had read a bunch of hype on the internet, lots of outlandish claims from a few dealers, a few believable ones from other dealers, and a bunch of opinion. I decided to call Mr. Laskey. I did. The man was polite, but he was very reluctant to divulge information about the product other than "it works" and "the military likes it". It has no NSN number, and I know if you give a grunt something for free of course they will like it, so that didn't mean anything to me. More hype in my opinion.

Anyway, I know a few guys who I know for a fact "really are" "special forces". I talked to them about it and yes, they actually DID use the stuff and highly recommended it to me. Well, these people have "seen the elephant" and pretty labels don't mean crap to 'em, so I figured maybe I should give the stuff another go--but the lack of information on the product was disturbing, so I was left with testimony, and kitchen experiments.

I did the best I could with this, and approached it again with an open mind. Along the way, I began collecting real data (4-ball wear test) from other, better funded, interested parties (who did not like Froglube, yet changed their tune after their own research).

I discovered a few things about Froglube that I think are pertinent:

---It protects physically, not so much chemically. A PHYSICAL barrier is what it creates. If you are using it as a protectant, put it on THICK! I failed to do this initially testing it. Subsequently, it has done very well when applied properly for storage.

---Froglube mixes and plays just fine with petrochemicals--the CLP contains about 50% petrochemicals in the form of PAO. Don't sweat about alcohol and all that, just change the weapon over to it, if you want. No magic here.

---Froglube really does keep carbon from sticking--but equally as important, when FL burns off, it does NOT leave any ash or coked deposits behind. A lot of what you see on a bolt-tail in an AR-15 is just this.

---Froglube and the newer SEAL-1 are very similar, but SEAL-1 is "firmer". I think they just took whatever ingredient in Froglube makes it temperature sensitive, and increased it's proportion in SEAL-1. I do not know the price of ingredients, nor the ingredients, but this might also account for SEAL-1's slightly lower price.

---I have not noted any abnormal wear on my Noveske with about 400+ rounds down the tube using Froglube. It has not malfunctioned once. However, I wouldn't expect it to, anyway, even running bone dry, only firing 1-200 rounds an outing.

---I actually can (with the exception of the bolt-tail which requires a finger-nail) clean the entire rifle, sans bore and chamber, with a microfiber cloth.

Here is the physical evidence I have collected during my time of trying to prove that Froglube was crap, and actually becoming a user myself, in the process, and really liking it. The 4-ball wear-test was done by ASTM D4172 standards, by an independent party.

Anyway, I don't think it can get any more non-biased than this, as I don't sell it, don't want to sell it, and started out trying to prove that the product sucked. I still hate the marketing, but it's a solid product and I strongly recommend it to friends, family, and whoever cares about what I have to say on the 'net. Also, apologies to the MOD/Fisherman that I got into it with over the Froglube product in the beginning. When I'm right, I'm not going to back down, and when I'm wrong, I will gladly acknowledge it and adopt the better way. Apologies for posting negatively in your thread.


Data/vids/pictures I compiled. The rifle pictured is not mine, it has had FL Paste run in it since it was new, this is at the 350 round mark:


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This is a very interesting visual explanation of the flash-point of FL vs. Weaponshield and LaRue MG Lube (Group V Synthetic w/Moly added).

For something made from a plant...wow. Note also no ash...
http://youtu.be/LXNAYT9ijJ
http://youtu.be/Idg4TcWIzjo


Here is the 4-ball wear data.

SCAR is 0.5766mm, compared to 0.8mm for CLP, and 0.56mm for SLIP2000. Mil-spec for an oil for firearm use is 0.8mm, and for a grease, 0.6mm.


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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Are those specks of rust on the front of the chamber?
It's not my rifle, so I don't know. However, I did have a Sabre Defense rifle that was like that NIB when I got it. It can also be a lot of other things. I found red grease on one Sabre rifle I had where the barrel-nut was. Also, some of the preservative that is used can look like rust. Or it could have sat in a warehouse and condensation could have occurred before the customer got ahold of it.

Whatever the case, the discoloration is not germane to this discussion in this case, as the rifle only has 350 rounds through it and is brand-new, and we do not know how it arrived originally. It is not like the discoloration was NOT there, and now it is, after using FL, or something.

It could even be some rust from Wolf Polymer that the owner shot through it that was beginning to rust. Who knows? It appears to also be on the aluminum of the upper and on the outside of the BCG. Since it's not my rifle, guesswork is all I've got for you.

Either way, irrelevant. My Noveske shows no signs of rust through the 4-500 rounds I have shot through it with Froglube.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Froglube Premium is out now, and it changes things a bit. The physical properties are the same as best I can tell, but now the CLP is "98% biobased" just like the paste (Supposedly 100% biobased is "impossible" due to how testing is performed, not sure what this means, but it's reasonable, I guess?).

The CLP no-longer separates like it used to when left set for a while.

Both the CLP and Paste protect against corrosion slightly better than before.

They retain their physical and high-temp burn-off resistance properties.
 
Thanks for the review! I will openly admit that I am often suspicious of "miracle lubes", but I have heard great things about Froglube from lots of folks, so I may have to swallow my pride and give it a try... :thumb:

PS: I notice they sell a CLP and CLP Paste. Any preferences between the two?
 
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the review! I will openly admit that I am often suspicious of "miracle lubes", but I have heard great things about Froglube from lots of folks, so I may have to swallow my pride and give it a try... :thumb:

PS: I notice they sell a CLP and CLP Paste. Any preferences between the two?
I like the Paste for rust prevention (It forms a physical barrier, like the concept of waxing something), and for initial application to my BCG, etc.

The CLP for application in the field, cleaning, or to thin down the paste for colder environments or be used instead of paste.

You can mix the new Paste and CLP and get a goop that is the exact consistency you are looking for.

I have gone a LONG WAY! out of my way to prove that Froglube was junk snake-oil, but instead became a proponent of it and use it on my own M4's. I will be the first to tell you that it doesn't belong in high-shear environments like 1911 rails or M1A's, but for the AR, the stuff is awesome. I am also motivated to use it due to its non-toxic nature. I run my weapons WET! and when you do that, lube blows off, gets everywhere, vaporizes, etc. I do NOT want to breath in CLP. It causes skin problems for me, and I don't want it in my lungs.

Mil-spec CLP has proven in my tests to offer better rust protection, but at the cost of burning off faster and being toxic, I will not use it. I slather my weapons up, and I don't want the stuff getting on my hands anymore. Tired of seeing little skin inclusions that look similar to a flat wart pop up a few weeks later every time I used CLP and it stayed on my hands for more than a few minutes. Maybe your skin doesn't react to CLP, but mine does, and so I'll pass.

I guess my point is this:

Froglube certainly isn't a miracle lube. What it is, is a non-toxic solution to firearm lubrication where EP additives are not needed, and that provides long-term solution to storing a weapon vertical without lubricant running off, as well as to high-operating temperatures as experienced in the M4 platform.

Will it kill ants? Cure burns? Shrink hemorrhoids? Bring your childhood dog back to life? Melt rust? Turn a 1MOA rifle into a 1/2 MOA rifle?

Not that I can tell. But if you keep your expectations reasonable, it's a great product. The initial marketing really set wrong with me, and they still make some outlandish claims at times, but don't let a funky label or idiotic "miracle" claims cause you to throw this one out. It's no game-changer, but it is another option, and it's the best option out there in a non-toxic high-temp stable lube that isn't going to run off your weapon when you set it vertical for months at a time.

Some people use grease, but I don't like grease on an M4. Grease will get thick and gunky when you fill it with carbon fouling. Froglube paste turns liquid and performs like an oil when things heat up and it fills with carbon.

YMMV, but give it a try. If you don't want to jump in $20 deep on your first pop, just add one of these to your next order:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/61...-bio-based-cleaner-lubricant-and-preservative-5-ml-paste?cm_vc=3225BrandPopProd

In fact, if you call Froglube's hot-line, they might send you one. I don't know if they will or not, but they are HUGE on "image" and PR, so it's worth a try.
 
I just recently decided to give it a try. Only used it for the last two range trips so far. But it has worked exactly as advertised on my AK and my Glock. I'm probably going to end up giving my leftover CLP away to friends, and just use the FL from now on.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Good review.

Don't underestimate organic lubes. We even have ''green'' lube at the shop for engines. Haven't seen any cars blow up yet :D:
I'm far from a tree-hugger, but I would never use something that is known to be toxic when offered an equal or better performing non-toxic alternative.
 
I'm far from a tree-hugger, but I would never use something that is known to be toxic when offered an equal or better performing non-toxic alternative.
Neither would I. Point is that it has been around for a while, and works. We have a few loyal customers who have used this in SX4's for over 100,000mi. The owner of the business uses it in his Audi A4 - Zero problems.
 
Don't you people shoot your guns? One gun in this review has 350 rounds an one 400? The one shown exhibits normal wear, such as you would see using CLP, motor oil, remoil, or any other lube. Give me a review of say 1000 rounds, with no cleaning, lubed with the latest wonder lube. 'Till then I'm staying with motor oil and lithium grease, of course I run an AK-74 so I could clean it with gasoline, and lube it with used motor oil and it would be just fine.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Don't you people shoot your guns? One gun in this review has 350 rounds an one 400? The one shown exhibits normal wear, such as you would see using CLP, motor oil, remoil, or any other lube. Give me a review of say 1000 rounds, with no cleaning, lubed with the latest wonder lube. 'Till then I'm staying with motor oil and lithium grease, of course I run an AK-74 so I could clean it with gasoline, and lube it with used motor oil and it would be just fine.
I have a three day Viking Tactics carbine course coming up in early November. Stay tuned.
 
Don't you people shoot your guns? One gun in this review has 350 rounds an one 400? The one shown exhibits normal wear, such as you would see using CLP, motor oil, remoil, or any other lube. Give me a review of say 1000 rounds, with no cleaning, lubed with the latest wonder lube. 'Till then I'm staying with motor oil and lithium grease, of course I run an AK-74 so I could clean it with gasoline, and lube it with used motor oil and it would be just fine.
well i cleaned my 12ga with froglube. went dove hunting and shot about 250 shells over 3 days. ran a dry brush down the barrel and it came out black. then ran a bore snake through it got very little else. put a light down the barrel and it looked like a mirror inside. carbon will not stick to this stuff. heating up and cooling off and heating up again usually means some serious scrubbing. i didnt even reapply fl till after it was clean. once your barrel is "seasoned" with this stuff you can wipe off the carbon. other lubes seem to burn off eventually or liquefy and gum up in a spot. this is like teflon for your gun. being a prepper website, how valuable is a clp that lets you clean your weapon without reapplying even over a 3 day period? i have bought so many of the "next best things" i could probably put a stripper through college. someone is gonna have to show me some serious proof before i switch to anything else.
 
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