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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-07-2019 12:30 PM
Valveman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stob View Post
I think one should get the biggest tank they can in their house.
27 years ago I would have agreed with that statement. Thanks for mentioning the Cycle Stop Valve guys. For the last 27 years I have used a CSV and a small tank to eliminate pump cycling. Cycling destroys everything in a pump system. Replacing pressure switches, start capacitors, relays, and even the bladder in the tank, is just an indication of too much cycling. Replaceable bladders are not good, as the way they fit causes them to wear more quickly. A small diaphragm tank and a Cycle Stop Valve is all that is needed to deliver strong constant pressure to the house while eliminating all the problems that are caused by the pump cycling on and off.

https://vimeo.com/248374194
08-28-2019 01:59 PM
Stob
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertSWMissouri View Post
What about no bladder tank ? Just a big (as big as you can fit in) galv. tank ?
If it AIR logs, there is an auto vent valve.
If it WATER logs, the few places I have lived where one did, I could just hit the schrader valve with a small air compressor I kept in the well house once a month (go read the electric meter, air to the tank, done for the month).
My parents house had a galvanized tanks as you suggest. Yes it would get water logged once in a while, my Dad would open the air valve and drain out water. A bladder tank does away with the water log issue.
08-28-2019 10:05 AM
RobertSWMissouri What about no bladder tank ? Just a big (as big as you can fit in) galv. tank ?
If it AIR logs, there is an auto vent valve.
If it WATER logs, the few places I have lived where one did, I could just hit the schrader valve with a small air compressor I kept in the well house once a month (go read the electric meter, air to the tank, done for the month).
08-27-2019 05:31 PM
Stob I think one should get the biggest tank they can in their house. I wasn't as lucky, things were built around the tank, and wasn't much I could change. Make sure the pre-charge air pressure is 2 pounds below the switch low setting (going by memory here, I don't think it was 2 pounds over, but..) My new tank recommended to drain the system each years and check the pore-charge pressure. I have done it since the new tank, which is about 4 years old now. But I did note how long it takes to fill the tank from ON to OFF, when new. So I can keep track if the pressure in the tank changes.
08-27-2019 12:24 PM
Anthony George If you need the best pressure tank i will suggest this WaterWorker HT-20B Vertical Pressure, 20-Gallon Capacity tank. I find the tank in this site: https://www.reviewcenterhq.com/best-well-pressure-tank/
07-27-2018 02:24 PM
cavedweller Never thought about that capacitor idea. Will look at getting some of those. Purchased three pressure switches when I bought my last replacement. Replace a lot of those for friends during cold winters. The well will freeze and the motor and switch will hammer away.

Just installed the new 85 gallon Pentair bladder tank. The bladder is replaceable. But the supply house does not stock them. Not a part that plan to keep on hand. Should it ever need replacing, will just order one.

The draw down from 60 to 40psi is 22 gallons. From 40 to 20psi is 30 gallons. So there is a good reserve in this size tank for minor power outages.

Thanks for all the replies!

K

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2muchstuff View Post
Get a bladder tank bigger than you need, it will reduce the number of times the pressure switch has to come on extending it's life. You can also put a .01 mfd 600volt ceramic disc capacitor across each of the pressure switch contacts. This will reduce the arcing across the switch contacts extending their life.

Word to the wise: keep a spare pressure switch and a motor start/run capacitor handy. They will always go out at the most inopportune time.
07-26-2018 04:12 PM
2muchstuff Get a bladder tank bigger than you need, it will reduce the number of times the pressure switch has to come on extending it's life. You can also put a .01 mfd 600volt ceramic disc capacitor across each of the pressure switch contacts. This will reduce the arcing across the switch contacts extending their life.

Word to the wise: keep a spare pressure switch and a motor start/run capacitor handy. They will always go out at the most inopportune time.
07-26-2018 11:50 AM
cujet I have the CSV and a modest sized expansion tank. The setup works perfectly. Well pump runs only after using a few gallons. Then continues to run until the water use stops.

Nice smooth water pressure, no more showers that cycle from hard to soft.
07-25-2018 08:42 AM
Brettny Put the biggest tank practical in for the location. Mine is about the side of a 55gal drum. My old one was slightly smaller and made by sears. It had metal feet that were sitting on concrete. This made them rust out...so get one with a plastic base.
07-24-2018 07:46 PM
cavedweller
Quote:
Originally Posted by akcooper9 View Post
Put a Pside-Kick CSV on it and be done.

https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick
Cycle Stop going in one the next round of well improvements. In 2-4 mouths. Not doing the Uber small tank. As I want enough capacity in the bladder tank to handle the power being out and still having 5-10 gallons available. As the power is off here enough that I like the ability to operate for a few hours before the generator comes out.
07-24-2018 07:43 PM
Don H "Do you really need a pressure tank system."

Yes, the tank prevents the well pump from cycling on and off so often. The less pump starts the longer the pump will last. I would buy a Well X Trol, larger than the size you currently have.
07-24-2018 05:33 PM
augoldminer Do you really need a pressure tank system.
I have never used them i always used on demand water pumps

They are the same type pumps used in RVs but run on 120 volts. you will need a water storage tank that you fill from your well then the on demand water pump feed your home.

I found that with this type system the well pump last a lot longer because its not cycling on off when you use water.

Depending on the size of your storage take you turn on your well pump when the tank gets low and if set up with a full tank switch the well will turn its self off when the storage tank is full.

One nice part with the on demand water pump system is if you lose your well pump you can still haul water and store and get water from your storage tank.

Plus you can rig your storage tank for fire use
07-24-2018 10:30 AM
akcooper9 Put a Pside-Kick CSV on it and be done.

https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick
07-24-2018 07:51 AM
MattB4
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavedweller View Post
Been having some issues with the water well here at the house. Long story short the 9 y/o bladder tank from Lowe’s gave up the ghost. The bladder is toast and the tank was water logged. So now I need another bladder tank. Not content to go buy what ever over priced crap Lowe’s has on the shelf.

So want to ask if there are any preferred brands or models bladder tanks that are well built and worth the money. Also any not worth wasting money on and to stay away from.

Thanks!

K
Every bladder tank I have had experience with will eventually have the bladder leak. There are some commercial tanks that allow you to change out the bladder via a bolted on flange fitting. They are not cheap. Standard home grade tanks may have a warranty for early failure but whether any company that makes them has every stood behind them I haven't a clue. Plus which you can't rely on someones testimony of their experience with Brand "X" from 20 years ago since who knows what has changed in the meantime.
07-23-2018 11:08 PM
charliemeyer007 I have a Home Depot unit. Been 14 years in service more or less along with the pump and water heater. P tank and the water heater are drip pans shunted to the outside. I had to replace the pressure switch once and the gauge twice.

I had the galvi reducer fitting rust out on top of the pump on New Years Eve. The retrieval cable had rusted in half also. Hauled water until May when I could get to the well. Giant PIA getting the pump and the hairball of wire on top of it out of the 200' hole. I built the device to pull the unit.

Installed new stainless steel fittings and retrieval cable in the hole. I will be able to pull the pump next time by myself.

I'm looking to replace the P tank and water heater this fall when it cools down.

https://simpletoilet.com/best-well-pressure-tank/

I think mine is rated 40 gallon (20 usable). I might get 2 next time and hook them up with iceolator valves.
07-23-2018 09:01 PM
cavedweller
Well bladder tank shopping

Been having some issues with the water well here at the house. Long story short the 9 y/o bladder tank from Lowe’s gave up the ghost. The bladder is toast and the tank was water logged. So now I need another bladder tank. Not content to go buy what ever over priced crap Lowe’s has on the shelf.

So want to ask if there are any preferred brands or models bladder tanks that are well built and worth the money. Also any not worth wasting money on and to stay away from.

Thanks!

K

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