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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-15-2019 03:19 PM
pontypool An archery enthusiast told me my bow was too small ! I'm 5' 11 and my bow is a Samick Sage with 62inch limbs. I think that doesn't count the riser!
The person I spoke to said you need one that's 3 inches longer than yourself?! That means 74 inches?
Wow lol.

Please advise which type of jig/ which type of shaft etc.

Basically every component I need. I don't want to get something wrong !!

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06-06-2019 01:32 AM
pontypool Btw does the brand of jig matter?

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06-04-2019 10:35 AM
pontypool I'll probably stick with aluminium for now [emoji19]

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06-04-2019 09:44 AM
Originally Posted by pontypool View Post
How do you guys feel about this jig

Also what do you think about the glue that comes with it? Can you recommend all the cumulative parts necessary? As I feel a bit overwhelmed and I trust your experience more than my own research, at this point.

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I use fletchtite for attaching the fletches, If the glue comes with the jig it's going to work. If you are wanting to do your own aluminum or cedar arrows you'll need a stick of hot melt glue for inserts and attaching nocks and points

Aluminum arrows are easy to work with while cedar arrows take a bit more knowhow. For instance the nock on a cedar arrow has to be perpendicular to the grain of the shaft. Has to do with spine weight. There always seems to be a few cedar arrows a bundle of blanks that will need to be straightened, there is a trick to that as well.

If you want to you can dye cedar arrows using leather dye. Whether I'm dying an arrow or not, sometimes I don't. I will spray lacquer the shafts with a quick dry lacquer before fletching.
06-04-2019 08:38 AM
pontypool How do you guys feel about this jig

Also what do you think about the glue that comes with it? Can you recommend all the cumulative parts necessary? As I feel a bit overwhelmed and I trust your experience more than my own research, at this point.

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06-03-2019 03:09 PM
pontypool Thanks interesting posts

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06-03-2019 02:25 PM
arleigh I am from a different camp.
IMO one needs to know their arrows and have several the can switch to.
Bow fishing, bird, small game, large game ,all require unique arrows .
Bow fishing arrows require a special head and mine are solid fibre glass with a string and reel .fletching is plastic or rubber and the string is locked at the nock .
Bird arrows are called flu flu , the feather fletching is very wide and create a lot of drag to prevent loosing over distance, some even use a cross blade tip for decapatation on turkeys .
Small game uses a blunt tip , blunt force trauma not penetration . hunting arrows for deer are razor sharp for severe bleeding and bone cutting penetration .
Each type of arrow requires a very different MOA ,learning this takes time
My target practice is done using card board stacked flat and shooting into the end grain, greatest ease of removal.
06-03-2019 02:20 PM
Peter Martin makes an inexpensive fletching jig. I have used one for years and it does a respectable job of fletching. Whether you use plastic vanes or feather depends on what kind of arrow rest you are using. Feathers can be used with any style of rest, with plastic vanes a bit of clearance in the riser window is preferable.
06-03-2019 01:38 PM
goat daddy I replaced the fletching on 3 dozen aluminum arrows last fall. I did pick up more feather and plastic vanes in different sizes. Also picked up a couple dozen nocks. Also picked up 5 dozen arrows off ebay. Some carbon, some fiberglass. I now have a 35# compound bow for practice and small game. the lower poundage bow will not be as hard on the arrows as the 60#. I like a quiet bow. I also picked up a pcp air rifle in 22 cal. It to is quiet. My thoughts are the more I use the bow and air rifle the better I will be when rifle season comes around. I would hate to rely on the bow to feed the family but it can be done.
06-03-2019 12:33 PM
pontypool Also what is a jig and how much is one. And why do you "wrap" shafts

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06-03-2019 11:18 AM
pontypool I wouldn't know where to start refletching ! Will have a look on YouTube thanks !

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06-03-2019 10:07 AM
randkl Nope. A buck per arrow gets you used shafts, most often bare shafts that will need working. Common shafts, nothing exotic, are shafts, knocks, insert tips, and heads either field or hunting broadhead. If you want to go full custom, LED nocks, different types of heads, cresting, wraps etc will add creativity and "custom" but also add cost.

Refletching means taking a used arrow with damaged feathers or vanes (plastic) and stripping off the old and replacing with new. Aluminums, you can scrape the old fletching off with a pocketknife. You might scratch a shaft if you're inexperienced but that's what practice is for. Clean them good, wipe well with alcohol to remove fingerprint oils, add a glued feather or vane. Wait for it to adhere a bit, turn the shaft and add another etc. It's slow work but if you buy a bow and want to play, you will learn to do it. That's where a lot of the cost of finished arrows comes from. Custom arrows can be $10 a pop. Buy used Easton on Ebay in mixed lots, cheap as possible, and practice.

Vanes and feathers are getting to be expensive but you either do it or you park the bow in the closet when your arrows get damaged. With used shafts and your labor and parts, you'll look at approx $3 an arrow.

This is an example of mixed lots. That's 22 arrows that would cut to all matching 28 3/4"....or 15 that could be cut to 30" etc. All have been defletched, cleaned and wrapped, all have nocks and inserts. THOSE, I would bid on if I needed more. I don't.
06-03-2019 10:01 AM
charliemeyer007 Feather's wear out so you need to glue new ones on - refletching. Get a jig to do it with.

If you use 4 feathers the arrow will correctly nock either way, with 3 only one way is correct. Helical will spin the arrow in flight.
06-03-2019 09:30 AM
pontypool A lot of information there.

So if I make my own arrows,I need the shaft, nocks inserts and points? And that's only a buck per arrow? That certainly beats the 120 per 12 I saw for the carbon arrows.

What does "refletching" mean exactly?
Do I have to twist the strings myself,as I got a greenish twist string which was ready to go before.

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06-03-2019 09:09 AM
charliemeyer007 The heavier weight arrows will shoot slower but will likely last longer.

3 or 4 fletched. Straight or helical. Wood Aluminium Carbon

Arrows get lost or damage when hunting more than at practice.

You should talk to local hunters.
06-03-2019 09:08 AM
randkl Not recommending any of them, really. lol Easton aluminums are pretty cheap and make for easy practicing. You'll get lots of practice shooting, some practice refletching, practice building up your own arrows. Lots of parts available. Those carbons are "expensive"! You can often get the 2117's on Ebay at a buck a pop. Buy some of your favorite color vanes and some nocks and inserts, tube of FletchTite and go to town! Carbons can be ruined with one slip of the blade while removing the old fletching. You're completely right in wanting to shoot the arrows you plan to hunt with....but at this point, you need LOTS of PRACTICE shooting at all. Go for inexpensive *good* before expensive *great* and practice as much as you can.
06-03-2019 07:22 AM
pontypool Thanks ever so much for your detailed and comprehensive post.

So you're recommending aluminium, not carbon? My salesmen said the traditional easton with a 400 spine (whatever that means)

Anything will be better than the cheap arrows that came with my set, but I only want to practice with the same arrows I will hunt with, as I feel like I'll become accustomed to the wrong type of arrow, if that makes sense.

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06-03-2019 07:05 AM
Originally Posted by pontypool View Post

My limbs are 62 inch the Flemish twist string is 58 inches and my current arrows are for a 50- 55,inch bow, as all this came as a set,I am confused about the varying sizes.
Your recurve bow length (62") is shorter when it's flexed and strung hence the string length (58") you have. On a common recurve, the string should be 3-4" shorter than the bow length so yours is right on par. The shorter string means the bow will stay flexed at all times when strung, the string will be approx 7-8" or so from the belly of the bow when at rest. That's the "brace height". Grab your bow, string it, and tie a string to the spot that's exactly where the arrow nock will be....and hold the other end in your gripping hand....and carefully draw the bowstring back to where the knuckle of your string hand is at the corner of your mouth. Measure that string you tied on and you have your minimum arrow length...add 3" and you have your working arrow length. That bow is almost assuredly a 28-29" draw so 30-32" arrows will be perfect. Later on, when you play with your draw position, shorter than your mouth/longer etc....or want some custom arrows or anything, you'll be able to decide what suits you but right now, common 2117 Easton aluminums would be about perfect for you. Those Traditional Only carbons, go for a 400-500 spine, common 5/16" diameter. Practice with them at full length before you decide to cut them! Easy to trim one down but hard to add length back on!

05-31-2019 11:47 AM
Bishopj Also it will be different if you shoot split fingers or three under
05-31-2019 11:46 AM
Bishopj I have two sage bows they are good bows for the money as for arrows it depends on the draw weight of the bow and your draw length I shoot a Ted nugget gold tip arrow 31 inch long with 125 grain point my bow draws 40# and I have a 28 inch draw if you shoot wood arrows it's going to be different
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