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Thread: Yet another inverter question. Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-29-2019 05:31 AM
cook I made this post a few weeks ago.Mentioned I didn't want to take a long time making a decision,so I bought what I thought was a good choice.Not the best,but I got one.Hooked it up last weekend,and actually tried it out at the house to make sure it worked.

Well,here it is a couple days later,and I'm in the path of hurricane Dorian.I guess thats the whole point of "prepping" you don't have to have the "best",but have something,make sure it works,and know how to use it.
I may not need it,and its a backup,but its also 1 less thing to worry about.
08-28-2019 09:17 AM
chuckklr98
Quote:
Originally Posted by JL1 View Post
Since we're on inverters, what are good brands for a good price. I will be looking at something in the 3000 watt running range. Probably a modified sine wave type.
I have a aims 5000 watt continuous that lives outside under the hot metal deck of a industrial cart parked outside in the grass. Very humid conditions. . Working great for a year.
08-28-2019 08:09 AM
JL1 Since we're on inverters, what are good brands for a good price. I will be looking at something in the 3000 watt running range. Probably a modified sine wave type.
08-27-2019 08:56 PM
chuckklr98
Quote:
Originally Posted by cook View Post
I ain't mixing them,but gotta start somewhere.As I mentioned before,its nice not to hear the genny,even if its for 30 minutes,
thats good to hear
08-27-2019 04:48 PM
cook I ain't mixing them,but gotta start somewhere.As I mentioned before,its nice not to hear the genny,even if its for 30 minutes,
08-27-2019 10:41 AM
chuckklr98
Quote:
Originally Posted by JL1 View Post
You can get 6V golf cart batteries at Batteries Plus for about 100 bucks each. You will be charged a core if you don't have one. Also you can order online and pickup in the store and get a 10% off discount. They aren't Trojans but they are decent batteries.

He really needs a matched set of batts. His current hodgepodge is not gonna last.
08-26-2019 08:33 PM
JL1
Quote:
Originally Posted by cook View Post
A old wal-mart trolling batery,interstate car battery,HF agm ,and an second interstate battery hard wired in my trunk.I just use them individually..not the best..but I'm working on it.
You can get 6V golf cart batteries at Batteries Plus for about 100 bucks each. You will be charged a core if you don't have one. Also you can order online and pickup in the store and get a 10% off discount. They aren't Trojans but they are decent batteries.
08-26-2019 08:56 AM
cook A old wal-mart trolling batery,interstate car battery,HF agm ,and an second interstate battery hard wired in my trunk.I just use them individually..not the best..but I'm working on it.
08-26-2019 07:47 AM
chuckklr98
Quote:
Originally Posted by cook View Post
So,I tried it out Sunday.Ran the widow ac fine,same with my fridge,also a little dorm fridge I have as a backup.Was suprised,but it ran my old crasftsman circular saw cutting a 2x4.Can't find watt amp listed,just 2 1/4 HP.

Tiny 500 watt microwave tripped it,but that was expected.

I don't plan on going off grid or having a 2000$ sytem,but I'm in hurricane country(SWFL<ON THE GULF),and this is back up to a backup.

I pay 9 cents a Kwh.Small 2 bed/bath house.About 3 months ago put my central ac on 82 and havent touched it since,highest bill so far is 83$..so I'm kinda conservative.

Yep,I can do better,but I'm working with what I got.

What are you using for DC power?
08-26-2019 05:18 AM
cook So,I tried it out Sunday.Ran the widow ac fine,same with my fridge,also a little dorm fridge I have as a backup.Was suprised,but it ran my old crasftsman circular saw cutting a 2x4.Can't find watt amp listed,just 2 1/4 HP.

Tiny 500 watt microwave tripped it,but that was expected.

I don't plan on going off grid or having a 2000$ sytem,but I'm in hurricane country(SWFL<ON THE GULF),and this is back up to a backup.

I pay 9 cents a Kwh.Small 2 bed/bath house.About 3 months ago put my central ac on 82 and havent touched it since,highest bill so far is 83$..so I'm kinda conservative.

Yep,I can do better,but I'm working with what I got.
08-25-2019 08:31 AM
chuckklr98
Quote:
Originally Posted by JL1 View Post
FWIW I had a small solar setup in my shop. A lightning hit took out a lot of it so I am slowly rebuilding. 4-6V 215Ahr batteries in series for 12V. 4-150w panels, a cheap charge controller and 2 cheap inverters that were supposedly rated at 5000W/3500W and3000/1500W. These were ebay units. Neither would start either the small fridge or the small chest freezer in my shop. I had to install hard start capacitors on both appliances before the compressors would run on each one. I never tried them both at once, both were run individually. Never had an explanation other than being a cheap inverters. My miter saw would also surge if I tried to run it. Oh one other thing make sure you properly ground your system. I believe this was the cause of the failure I experienced.
I bought a cheap 1500watt Chinese job at first. When I went to hard wire it to the outside GFI on the cart. I noticed how undersized the wiring was on it. Did some more research and found that that 1500-3000 max watt was probably only 750. It could not run hardly anything in its power rage, and went out quick. went to a quality aims 5000 watt unit despite it being 500 plus. Running great for a year under heavy loads like cutting down trees with electric chainsaws.
08-25-2019 08:04 AM
JL1 FWIW I had a small solar setup in my shop. A lightning hit took out a lot of it so I am slowly rebuilding. 4-6V 215Ahr batteries in series for 12V. 4-150w panels, a cheap charge controller and 2 cheap inverters that were supposedly rated at 5000W/3500W and3000/1500W. These were ebay units. Neither would start either the small fridge or the small chest freezer in my shop. I had to install hard start capacitors on both appliances before the compressors would run on each one. I never tried them both at once, both were run individually. Never had an explanation other than being a cheap inverters. My miter saw would also surge if I tried to run it. Oh one other thing make sure you properly ground your system. I believe this was the cause of the failure I experienced.
08-23-2019 10:48 AM
chuckklr98 My two cents

Go with the highest voltage battery system you can afford. Mine is 36 volts, and I wish I went 48v. The 48v inverters are much more efficient, cheaper, and plentiful. My choices for a large 36v inverter were very limited.

think of it this way. You are converting 12v, 24v. 36v, or 48V to 120v. Its way harder,inefficient to bump up 12v to 120v, but gets better the closer you get to 120vac Crazy inefficient. I did the math on my 36v system running a 5000 watt inverter to power a 4.5 amp window a/c, and it costs me 23 amps. It would only be 17 amps using 48v system.

Sure wish they made a dc window unit. LOL!!!!!!!!

My rig for reference.
08-23-2019 10:02 AM
couchpotato013
Quote:
Originally Posted by cook View Post
For what is worth,got one on my lunch break today.Power drive 3000/6000,modified sine wave...maybe not the "best",but 2 year warrenty.
Your loads are inductive and should be run on pure sinewaves, not modified sinewaves. Anything spinning usually won't spin at the correct speeds.

https://www.samlexamerica.com/support/faqs/faq02.aspx
Quote:
4. Which devices will not function properly from a Modified Sine-wave Inverter?The high frequency harmonic content in a modified sine wave produces enhanced radio interference, higher heating effect in motors / microwaves and produces overloading due to lowering of the impedance of low frequency filter capacitors / power factor improvement capacitors.
08-21-2019 03:31 PM
cook For what is worth,got one on my lunch break today.Power drive 3000/6000,modified sine wave...maybe not the "best",but 2 year warrenty.
I'll mess around with it next Sun. and see what it can do.
Thank you everybody for your help,I didn't want to d ick around forever making a decision.
08-19-2019 03:53 PM
cook Wait a while,I have to look up "parse",I thought it was a Star Trek reference.
08-19-2019 11:49 AM
MyPrepperLife
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattB4 View Post
Got to love feisty women. Now that you and Cook have parsed out your respective posts, and traded jabs, I hope that both sides can retire to their respective corners. At least until the bell rings again.
I'm in my corner. I'm wearing my big puffy gloves. They are pink.
08-19-2019 11:39 AM
MattB4
Quote:
Originally Posted by MyPrepperLife View Post
cook, my jab wasn't aimed at you. It was aimed at other people on this forum who have started threads similar to this one and then either ignored the advice to gather data and perform calculations or dropped out of sight altogether.

...
Got to love feisty women. Now that you and Cook have parsed out your respective posts, and traded jabs, I hope that both sides can retire to their respective corners. At least until the bell rings again.

On the subject of inverters. I bought a cheap China import Edecoa 1000w (2000 surge) pure sign wave inverter. I have been impressed with its handling for short times loads in excess of the 1000 watts. I was able to test it with my heat gun on both the 800w and 1500w settings and while it quickly indicates a overload at the higher setting it did get it going. On the lower setting of 800 there was no indications of problems.
08-19-2019 11:26 AM
MyPrepperLife cook, my jab wasn't aimed at you. It was aimed at other people on this forum who have started threads similar to this one and then either ignored the advice to gather data and perform calculations or dropped out of sight altogether.

To your credit, you are at least attempting to defend your position.

RE "I mentioned none will be running at the same time"

No you didn't. What you said was "not all at once." "None would be running at the same times" is different than "not all at once." If you parse those statements, which is what I've done, you come to the understanding that "not all at once" means that either one of the three devices or two of the three devices could be running concurrently, but not all three. On the other hand, "none would be running at the same time" means that while one of the devices is running, the other two would not be. Do you see what I mean?

So, I assumed the refrigerator and air conditioner might be running at the same time because of your phrase "not all at once" and also because, in a typical air-conditioned household, a refrigerator might very well be running while an air conditioner is also running.

RE "I mentioned a fridge..it is listed at 6.5 amps max draw/not surge if that is the surge/startup..so I'm guessing abot 800 continous,1000 surge watts."

Let me just say that manufacturers' power-consumption specs aren't always clear or accurate. That's why I collect my own data whenever possible.

Also, your sentence doesn't hold together very well (the part about "max draw/not surge if that is the surge/startup"). ??? And you admit you are guessing about the 1000 surge watts for the fridge. That might or might not be anything close to accurate. For comparison purposes, let me just say that my 12 volt DC freezer pulls about 2.3 amps (28 watts) most of the time (when the compressor is running, that is), but it pulls 8.2 amps (98 watts) at startup. So, it pulls more than 3 times as much wattage at startup as it does after startup. If your refrigerator operates in a similar way, your refrigerator might draw 2400 watts at startup.

RE "I clearly stated I already have 3 genies,a small solar system with an inverter(and 2 batterys),and I was looking for a bigger back-up."

Yes, you did, but you said nothing about your plans for use of those generators and that solar-electric system. For all I know you have four big chest freezers and who knows what else.

RE "But on the other hand you had very good information,and I appreciate it."

Thank you.
08-19-2019 01:33 AM
Central Scrutinizer Anything with a motor or motors like a fridge or AC unit will require an invertor with enough current to overcome the "locked rotor" surge. I think the rule of thumb is 5 x nameplate current.
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