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Old 12-04-2009, 10:45 AM
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Default Tips On How To Make Custom Serrations On A Knife



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EDIT: THIS IS A REQUEST FOR TIPS

Hello All, just want to say quick that I love this board and this is my first thread.

I am looking for advice/tips/tutorial on how to put custom serrations into a knife blade.

(backstory/purpose)
After about a month and a half of searching for the best knife for my needs, I have decided to purchase a Becker/Kabar BK&T Campanion. I will be using the knife for camp duties, food prep in camp, as well as carrying with me through the Adirondack Park Preserve NY,etc.


Becker Campanion
Blade 5 1/2 Inches
1/4 inch Thick 1095 Cro-Van (Carbon)

I plan on only making serrations around 1 to 1 1/2 inches, obviously on the handle end/base of the blade. I have a multi-speed dremel, and I can purchase any attachments needed. I have access to vices and safety equipment.

Should I just measure it out, mark it, vice it and take my time?

Serration patters vs usability and performance in cutting?

Do you have a pic of a blade with custom serrations you could share with me?

BEFORE POSTING A REPLY PLEASE CONSIDER THESE THINGS:

1. Do not post a reply attempting to talk me out of making serrations, I want to do this.

2. Do not post a reply attempting to talk me out of purchasing this knife, or recommending a different knife.

3. I did do a board search for this topic, but didn't see anything immediately.

TY

Last edited by aronck; 12-04-2009 at 10:47 AM.. Reason: error is thread topic
Old 12-04-2009, 10:49 AM
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If you have found a "perfect knife" but need to modify it, then it isn't so perfect to begin with, is it? I would suggest finding another one that has already been serrated. Without the know-how, it is almost certain that you will permanently damage the blade.

And I do apologize for not following your rules of this thread, but these issues are the issues that need to be discussed.

If you are so intent on doing this, I suggest practicing on an old knife or piece of wood or something.
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:15 AM
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just as a note of interest, a chainsaw file, or round bastard file will do a fine job of sharpening serrated blades.
Old 12-04-2009, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdruid View Post
just as a note of interest, a chainsaw file, or round bastard file will do a fine job of sharpening serrated blades.
Good Idea. I'll look into that one!
Old 12-04-2009, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hubb View Post
If you have found a "perfect knife" but need to modify it, then it isn't so perfect to begin with, is it? I would suggest finding another one that has already been serrated. Without the know-how, it is almost certain that you will permanently damage the blade.

And I do apologize for not following your rules of this thread, but these issues are the issues that need to be discussed.

If you are so intent on doing this, I suggest practicing on an old knife or piece of wood or something.
I agree. If you have to hack it up, then it is not the knife you need.
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hubb View Post
If you have found a "perfect knife" but need to modify it, then it isn't so perfect to begin with, is it? I would suggest finding another one that has already been serrated. Without the know-how, it is almost certain that you will permanently damage the blade.

And I do apologize for not following your rules of this thread, but these issues are the issues that need to be discussed.

If you are so intent on doing this, I suggest practicing on an old knife or piece of wood or something.
I appreciate your input. If Becker starts making this knife with a partially serrated blade i'll get that one, but I don't see it happening anytime soon or at all.

Perfect in regards to what I was looking for, but want to make it even better! .
Old 12-04-2009, 11:25 AM
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Maybe this will help he gets to showing the saw about 4:20 and tells you how he did just after.

Old 12-04-2009, 12:41 PM
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Not available,but thought you might like to see this since you're interested in modding your blade.

Scroll down to the BK8:

http://www.collectors-of-camillus.us...ker%20Info.pdf

Cliff
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Old 12-04-2009, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Nieporte View Post
Not available,but thought you might like to see this since you're interested in modding your blade.

Scroll down to the BK8:

http://www.collectors-of-camillus.us...ker%20Info.pdf

Cliff
Very nice knife. Looksl like the bk2 with serrations and a sawback spine. Only 5 made

Looks like a good sample to copy from, but the sawback is a little much...atleast I think.
Old 12-04-2009, 01:02 PM
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I thought the same thing about the sawback junk.

Just thought you might like to see the serrations.

Cliff
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Old 12-04-2009, 01:08 PM
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Just curious. What does this knife have to offer that you are so drawn to it? Maybe I could help in locating one that has these qualities as well as being partially serrated.
Old 12-04-2009, 02:08 PM
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Take a rattail file and start fileing away aslong as you dont let it slip all over the blade or it will make them big.. just do it as a chisle grind meaing 2 the other side of the blade but personaly I dont like serrations

easyest way to work it is take the knife put it in a vise then file away at the angle you want with the file spread it out and do the next one make it as deep as you want hand tools take longer but harder to screw it up
Old 12-04-2009, 03:27 PM
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First off, I hate serrations--on the sharpened part of the blade and really like them on the back, where they belong...exclusion to this is for EMT/LEO who may have to cut seat belts and then a fully serrated blade would do just as well...

They are put on a knife to saw with, right? Ever take a wood-working class and be shown how to handle a handsaw, properly...you start from the back (or front with Japanese saws) and pull the whole length of the blade not just making cuts in one small section...This gives you maximum leverage and a powerful stroke...

How much would a 1" or 1" saw do...Now if you made those serrations along the back of the blade you'd have a nearly 5" saw like some of the dovetail saws I have and now you can get a proper cut...

As to making them on your knife, don't bother even trying as as soon as you get going you'll overheat the blade and lose the temper...

You want a saw, then go out and get a good plastic handled, 10" to 12" folding pruning saw with or without a sheath and you'll be far happier and only add ounces to your overall carry weight...I have a Japanese one that folds into it's own wooden handle that cuts wet wood with ease that sits in one of my backpack pockets...Fiskars makes the Woodzig Folding Pruning Saw-10 inch blade that some friends use for gardening and really like it...Fiskars is Gerber...
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Old 12-05-2009, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekHer View Post
First off, I hate serrations--on the sharpened part of the blade and really like them on the back, where they belong...exclusion to this is for EMT/LEO who may have to cut seat belts and then a fully serrated blade would do just as well...

They are put on a knife to saw with, right? Ever take a wood-working class and be shown how to handle a handsaw, properly...you start from the back (or front with Japanese saws) and pull the whole length of the blade not just making cuts in one small section...This gives you maximum leverage and a powerful stroke...

How much would a 1" or 1" saw do...Now if you made those serrations along the back of the blade you'd have a nearly 5" saw like some of the dovetail saws I have and now you can get a proper cut...

As to making them on your knife, don't bother even trying as as soon as you get going you'll overheat the blade and lose the temper...

You want a saw, then go out and get a good plastic handled, 10" to 12" folding pruning saw with or without a sheath and you'll be far happier and only add ounces to your overall carry weight...I have a Japanese one that folds into it's own wooden handle that cuts wet wood with ease that sits in one of my backpack pockets...Fiskars makes the Woodzig Folding Pruning Saw-10 inch blade that some friends use for gardening and really like it...Fiskars is Gerber...
I do not want a saw. I want a small area to assist in quickly cutting webbing, nylon straps, ropes and pull ties , etc.

Looks like I may get a chainsaw blade file and vice it and take my time. Make a big notch, then a small, then a big, repeat. Easy serration to sharpen in the future with the same method...
Old 12-06-2009, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aronck View Post
I do not want a saw. I want a small area to assist in quickly cutting webbing, nylon straps, ropes and pull ties , etc.

Looks like I may get a chainsaw blade file and vice it and take my time. Make a big notch, then a small, then a big, repeat. Easy serration to sharpen in the future with the same method...
A sharp blade w/out serrations will easily cut every thing you mentioned.
I cut through heavy zip ties all the time at work with my leatherman wave,
I use the plain edge it works better for me than the serrated.
as long and you keep it sharp you'll do fine and not have to worry about d*cking up a good knife...
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Old 12-06-2009, 09:34 AM
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If you're locked into doing this,

1. I'd stay away from the dremel tool for this task. The incredibly
high rate of speed of the tool could create some localised heating
of the blade edge and screw up the tempering unless you got a
really light touch.

2. As suggested in previous posts, a round file like a chain saw file
sounds like a good place to start. I'd do any finish work with a
serrated knife sharpener such as:
http://www.discountcutlery.net/en-us/dept_22091.html
(Just the first link I found for reference)

3. Consider making a guide jig for your file work to keep your file
from slipping to the wrong location. Seems like a couple of small
blocks of wood or metal clamped to the blade, with just enough
gap between them to allow the file to slip back and forth might
be a worthwhile extra effort.

4. Use cardboard or wood to protect your blade from the jaws
of your vice or clamps. Many vice jaws have textured teeth
that will gouge an imprint into your workpiece. Been there, done it.


And just a point of consideration -- the location at the base of the
blade where you propose to put the serrations is also the point on
the blade where you have the most leverage for really strong cuts.
By buggering up that region with tacticool serrations you'll limit
yourself on the usefulness of that part of the blade. I'd consider
a light, cheap folder with a serrated blade for the 0.013% chance
that you'll ever in your life encounter a situation where a good
straight blade won't do the job for you, but a serrated blade will.

That said, yeah, I've put "custom" serrations on one of my knives
before. "Custom" in this case translating to "amature hack job".
It's not as easy as it looks to get a uniform look to the serrations.
Getting your spacing off by even a couple hundredths of an inch
will be easily visible due to the uneven tooth sizes. Doesn't really
affect the functionality of the serrations, but it will look cheesy.
But perhaps you have a better hand at this than I do. Hate to
see you carving up a perfectly good Becker, but then again,
what's life without an occasional "project"? I've got a kuhkri blade
laying around my shop waiting to be completed as a project knife.
Tore up a perfectly functional knife to get started. Sometimes
you just gotta tear into something and get it out of your system.

(Oops -- sorry -- broke your rules. Couldn't help myself. )

Anyway, good luck. Bump this thread when you get it done and post photos.
Old 12-06-2009, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aronck View Post
I do not want a saw. I want a small area to assist in quickly cutting webbing, nylon straps, ropes and pull ties , etc.

Looks like I may get a chainsaw blade file and vice it and take my time. Make a big notch, then a small, then a big, repeat. Easy serration to sharpen in the future with the same method...
Well your blade will cut all of that now with no problem but if you're really serious of ruining your knife then I'd suggest you get a set of micro files from Garrett Wade or Woodcraft etc. instead of the chain saw file and do it very slowly so you don't impart too much heat to the blade...
Old 12-06-2009, 11:40 AM
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Send it to a custom knife maker.
Old 12-06-2009, 12:18 PM
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Well I can see several people have commented on the aspects of adding serrations. I'm just saying I don't think you need them for what you stated you want them for. Serrations are great for cutting rope and webbing and ties, and when you have a sharp straight edge it works just as well. Actually, I only like the serrations for when I dont care about preserving what I'm cutting when I want whatever cut fast. That seems what you want, the ability to cut through something fast in an emergency. As has been said any way of adding serrations to the blade fast will destroy the blades integrity, it will lose it's temper. Any knife maker will tell you that. Files are the only way that I can think of to add those serrations. But you have to practice on some junk knives and wood. I'm just saying it's very likely you are going to kill your Becker. What I suggest if you are not willing to devote the time to files that knife if you geet an emergency strap cutter from Gerber or Spyderco or Kershaw, most of the big knife companies are selling them.
Old 12-06-2009, 12:39 PM
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this is great..........please please please post pics of the knife once its ruined!!! your gonna end up with sloppy looking dull serrations. just post pics when your done so any other noob who wants to do something so stupid can see what the end result is!!!!
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