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Old 07-19-2009, 08:37 PM
jason1221 jason1221 is offline
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Default home made body armor how to?



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I have had an idea good or bad if you took a german flak vest put a layer of titanium in between two chunks of kevlar.I did see the test pic that some one else showed but would love to try to make something that could take rifle fire that would be bad ass.I have though of about 1/5 inch thick titanium plate in between two kevlar sheets don't have the money now.Next question is this legal?If anyone has more info please share.The metals i was thinking of titanium/vandium alloy (aircraft engine parts are made of) maybe some aluminuim on top of titanium between two chunks of kevlar.

Last edited by jason1221; 07-19-2009 at 08:43 PM..
Old 07-19-2009, 08:47 PM
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This is ALLLLLLLLLL you need to know:

http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...tractable+legs

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Old 07-19-2009, 09:04 PM
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MythBuster did a thing on this. What they found out was ceramic tiles put together with some epoxy stopped everyhtin except a 12 ga slug. I think the tile he used was the sheets of 1 in tiles for like a bathroom wall. A couple layers of that and some epoxy and its good. I know its not the best, but it could be better than nothin.
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Old 07-19-2009, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angeryamerican View Post
MythBuster did a thing on this. What they found out was ceramic tiles put together with some epoxy stopped everyhtin except a 12 ga slug. I think the tile he used was the sheets of 1 in tiles for like a bathroom wall. A couple layers of that and some epoxy and its good. I know its not the best, but it could be better than nothin.
They encased the tiles in high strength, gypsum reinforced concrete.
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:33 AM
BladeGuru BladeGuru is offline
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Default If it were me and

I had to do SOMETHING to protect myself and store bought vests werent an option.

I would get as many yards of spectra/vectran as I could and layer them so that the weave is 15degrees away from one another. the more layers the better. I would sew in full steel plate sandwiching all layers but for a couple on the inside and the outside.

Very thin stuff and very lightweight. I'd probably include a reasonably thick layer of rubber too for impact absorbtion and spread.

This idea originally comes from 2500BC china as they would layer leather and silk together with the weaves offset from one another to protect against crossbow bolts/arrows.
As long as epoxy didnt degrade the spectra/vectran Id epoxy the layers together. Anything to slow down and spread the impact across the whole chest rather than pinpoint.

bladeGuru
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:41 AM
jason1221 jason1221 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BladeGuru View Post
I had to do SOMETHING to protect myself and store bought vests werent an option.

I would get as many yards of spectra/vectran as I could and layer them so that the weave is 15degrees away from one another. the more layers the better. I would sew in full steel plate sandwiching all layers but for a couple on the inside and the outside.

Very thin stuff and very lightweight. I'd probably include a reasonably thick layer of rubber too for impact absorbtion and spread.

This idea originally comes from 2500BC china as they would layer leather and silk together with the weaves offset from one another to protect against crossbow bolts/arrows.
As long as epoxy didnt degrade the spectra/vectran Id epoxy the layers together. Anything to slow down and spread the impact across the whole chest rather than pinpoint.

bladeGuru
i'm about to buy the first plate then keep getting it little buy little some day i will test it.(not me or anyone wearing it).
Old 07-22-2009, 06:05 PM
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Default The outside layer should probably be

thick tread steel belted radial now that i think about it. You want to be able to slow down the bullet and spread the load across the chest.

thick rubber with lots of ridges internally and steel belts goes a long way.

The spectra vectran layers also provide a great deal of stab protection.

Now remember Im merely surmising that this will work. Please test in advance of wearing and dont wear your test model after it has been tested upon. In fact dont wear it period and just purchase a vest.

Im merely guessing with this and have no empirical data to back up my guesses.

Please dont get a Darwin award and then blame me. Not my problem. I'm merely guessing this might work.

Finally, make sure you error on testing more layers rather than less or just buy a vest.

Buy the vest. Dont be stupid. Do this for mere research, something fun to learn about ONLY ONLY ONLY ONLY. DO NOT WEAR YOUR HOMEMADE VEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 07-24-2009, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BladeGuru View Post
thick tread steel belted radial now that i think about it. You want to be able to slow down the bullet and spread the load across the chest.

thick rubber with lots of ridges internally and steel belts goes a long way.

The spectra vectran layers also provide a great deal of stab protection.

Now remember Im merely surmising that this will work. Please test in advance of wearing and dont wear your test model after it has been tested upon. In fact dont wear it period and just purchase a vest.

Im merely guessing with this and have no empirical data to back up my guesses.

Please dont get a Darwin award and then blame me. Not my problem. I'm merely guessing this might work.

Finally, make sure you error on testing more layers rather than less or just buy a vest.

Buy the vest. Dont be stupid. Do this for mere research, something fun to learn about ONLY ONLY ONLY ONLY. DO NOT WEAR YOUR HOMEMADE VEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i'm not that stupid but you never know no way in hell would i wear a homemade vest for testing no way in hell!!!
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:41 AM
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Go for it! All body armor really is is just hard metals inserted into layers of a vest. You can comission for sheets of titanium or steel to be made to fit whatever size you need and then buy a vest to insert your body armor into. I don't know how you would cover the face, and the arms would be problematic to figure out how to cover....

Another body armor design is scales, large circles of material overlapping each other to form a few layers of body armor. One version, 'Dragon Skin' is amazingly pliable. Though its effectiveness dwindles in heat.
Old 03-09-2010, 11:49 PM
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Default fiber glass

layers of fiberglass will act in a very similar way to Kevlar. I would also buy a full chest plate of AR steel or titanium.backed with carpet padding.(home depot, lowes)(not the cheap stuff).use heavy cotton jeans material for the outer shell.(can be bought at wall mart or fabric store.)
I have already built and tested against a 44 mag.
gets to about the fifth-sixth layer and stops cold(10 layers of glass). thanks to my mother who is a very good sower
Old 03-10-2010, 01:07 PM
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posted this in that thread kregner linked.

Be careful!
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:18 PM
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It will be cheaper to buy a sapi plate than try and buy a titanium sheet. It is very expensive and hard to cut and bend.May look at bullet proof plastics.
Old 03-14-2010, 01:37 AM
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titanium is very flexable, it would transmit the energy to what ever is behind it.
Old 03-14-2010, 03:13 AM
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Titanium would be great, but it is really expensive. A 12" x 12" sheet at only 0.10" thick (that's 1/10th of an inch) would probably cost you nearly $100. Take that times two (you don't want to get shot in the back do you?) and you've spent $200 just for the metal. For another $100 you can get a real Level IIIA vest brand-new. Plus it is a REAL b!tch to cut and bend, that stuff is crazy strong.

I've considered sewing my own just for experimentation to see if it could be done cheaply. You can buy ballistic kevlar by the yard online from various sources or from eBay, just make sure it's the ballistic kind. There are many other kevlar/carbon-fiber weaves out there for upholstery and such that are definitely not suitable for bulletproof vests, at least not without layering them 5" thick.

I would start there -- buy a few yards of ballistic kevlar, do some research to determine how many layers are typically used to stop different type of threats and go from there. Soft armor manufacturers shoot the vests against a block of clay so they can see what the impact is like for the person wearing it.
Old 03-16-2010, 01:21 AM
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I didnt read everyone elses responses seeming as its late and im quite tired but just thouhgt id throw it out that I would never trust my life to home made body armor.
Old 03-16-2010, 10:28 PM
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Test anything you may make with the 7.62 X 39 Rounds , specially russian steel core, Wolf or Brown Bear, if it holds you have a good Vest.

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Old 12-08-2012, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BladeGuru View Post
thick tread steel belted radial now that i think about it. You want to be able to slow down the bullet and spread the load across the chest.

thick rubber with lots of ridges internally and steel belts goes a long way.

The spectra vectran layers also provide a great deal of stab protection.

Now remember Im merely surmising that this will work. Please test in advance of wearing and dont wear your test model after it has been tested upon. In fact dont wear it period and just purchase a vest.

Im merely guessing with this and have no empirical data to back up my guesses.

Please dont get a Darwin award and then blame me. Not my problem. I'm merely guessing this might work.

Finally, make sure you error on testing more layers rather than less or just buy a vest.

Buy the vest. Dont be stupid. Do this for mere research, something fun to learn about ONLY ONLY ONLY ONLY. DO NOT WEAR YOUR HOMEMADE VEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm actually willing to try this. . . I think this is something that can work.

If I end up putting together something, I will take a video of it and post it up here.
Old 12-08-2012, 08:21 AM
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One suggestion. Stay away from places where bullets are flying.
Old 12-08-2012, 08:27 AM
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In regards to the video. Just a FYI. The vest being shot is a flak jacket not to be confused with body armor. Flak jackets are made to protect from minor shrapnel. Not full impact rounds. Hence the failure is expected.

Body armor with ceramic plates will stop the round used in the video.

I highly suggest that no one wear a flak jacket as a bullet proof vest. They will be highly disappointed in the results.
Old 11-06-2014, 10:04 AM
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Default New method for producing ballistic armor on the cheap

Please note: This is an experimental project. I am not responsible in any way for any damage or harm you incur.

I have been experimenting with various methods of producing ballistic armor that is equal or higher quality than the available Spectra and Kevlar currently used to produce body armor. I have two methods that have been successful so far, but I want to share the inexpensive method. I have basically modified my 3D Printer to create highly concentrated carbon molecules in an interlaced design measuring 12"x12". After depositing the first layer, a composite alloy of aluminium and carbon fiber is deposited (interlaced) at a 15 degree angle to the previous layer. Repeat the process for 50 layers, each time at a 15 degree angle to the previous layer, and you then compress the fabric by placing 6 12"x12" flat steel plates, each weighing 50 lbs, on top of the fabric and allow them to remain for 1 hour. After removing the plates, use a polymer resin to saturate the fabric and allow it to dry for 24 hours. The fabric should measure 0.5" thickness. You then use a 1" metal pipe that is long enough to roll the fabric onto it, keep rolling the fabric until it is flexible (I used super glue to attach one end of the fabric to the pipe and the other end I glued to the desk and rolled it on and off the pipe for about 15 minutes). After the material becomes flexible enough, you iron it on both sides. Then you repeat the entire process to produce enough 12"x12" pieces of material to make your body armor. When you have enough you are going to attach the pieces to make the fabric large enough to cut out the different parts for your body armor from it. You do this by attaching each square to the other half and half, so basically 6"x6" of the first square will be covered by 6"x6" of the second square using super glue to hold them onto each other. After you have made the material large enough, you will once more saturate it in the polymer resin and allow it to dry for 24 hours. Then when it is dry you cut the pieces from the material. Then you will make the inside cushion of the body armor using studded 5mm recycled rubber sheeting in 3 layers with 6 layers of cotton sandwiched between each rubber sheeting (You should have rubber, cotton, rubber, cotton, rubber, cotton). You then use the 6 flat 12"x12" metal plates to compress the materials for 1 hour. Because the steel plates that I had are only 12"x12" and the material actually measured 4ftx6ft, it would take me a very long to compress the material, but what I did was to place all six metal plates flat on the fabric and stack building blocks on top of the plates.
Then you use the polymer resin to saturate it and allow to dry fr 24 hours.
After it dries, you have to repeat the flexibility step using a metal pipe to roll the fabric, I would suggest using a longer pipe. Then you cut the pieces to attach to the inside side of the body armor, ensure you attach the rubber side of the body cushion to the inside of the body armor using super glue.

After attaching all the inside pieces, attach all the pieces of your body armor using super glue and then saturate all the areas where you have used super glue in polymer resin and allow it to dry for 24 hours. After it is dried, you may use a rolling pin to roll the specific areas where polymer resin was applied for flexibility.

You can now iron it as best as possible and if you want make an encasement for your body armor from tightly woven silk fabric or any other material you desire.

It's now ready to be tested, so put your body armor on a manikin and pick out your favorite gun (if you using a 12 gauge shotgun, you will need to add ballistic plates in pockets on the inside). Aim, Fire!
Try shooting at it from close range or hitting it multiple times from a moderate distance to ensure it is working effectively.

Please note: This is an experimental project. I am not responsible in any way for any damage or harm you incur.
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