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Old 07-14-2013, 12:44 PM
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Default Question about a 92 Ford 302 Starter



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Got a 92 Ford Bronco with a 302. Been having issues with this vehicle and the latest one is it won't start. The solenoid next to the battery appear to work fine but I'm getting continuity on the starter's + cable and ground. Is this normal?

Discovered this when I was trying to wire up my two way radios. I was testing the (-) and (+) wires in the cab and got continuity. Checked out my wires and everything is fine with it. Began checking the vehicle's wiring and discovered the problem was with it. Then it wouldn't crank, turn or nothing. BTW I cleaned all the connections and battery posts when I wiring things up.
Old 07-14-2013, 12:52 PM
kev1n69 kev1n69 is online now
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if i remember correctly they have a double solenoid. one on the fender and a second on the starter, usually the one on the starter connector turns green and wont crank.
some times a little wiggling will get it going again temporarily, but eventually it will need a new connector. some of the new starters actually come with a replacement wire to splice in.
Old 07-14-2013, 01:01 PM
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+1, Ford V8 starters are notorious. I have a 71 Mex Block 302/389 stroked to 332 and a 70 351W stroked to 408. Try a Mini Hi Torque Starter from Summit.
Old 07-14-2013, 01:21 PM
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make sure the small wire from the battery to the body is secure. I've had this be an issue before where it looked good but needed a new end crimped on. Good luck
Old 07-14-2013, 03:28 PM
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Check your battery cables, even if they look good there could be corrosion in the cable itself. That being said, its not uncommon for the starters to crap out on those trucks.
Old 07-14-2013, 04:47 PM
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The starter and the solenoid (by the battery) are not the original and have been replaced by the previous owner. Both appear in like new condition. My concern is, is the positive wires (big red one and little one) going to the starter from the solenoid suppose to have continuity with the negative / ground with the ignition switch off and the keys out of the ignition?

Just looking for conformation before I start throwing money at it. Thanks.
Old 07-14-2013, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kev1n69 View Post
if i remember correctly they have a double solenoid. one on the fender and a second on the starter, usually the one on the starter connector turns green and wont crank.
some times a little wiggling will get it going again temporarily, but eventually it will need a new connector. some of the new starters actually come with a replacement wire to splice in.
Correct it has one on the starter and one on the fender. The starter has been replaced before and the PO spliced in the replacement wire. I was going to redo his wiring job but it appears that's not the issue. I'll look at the connectors on it. Thanks.
Old 07-14-2013, 04:55 PM
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On a ford I believe so. If you diconect the battery while my ford is running it dies. My chevy does not. Nor my nissan. That suggest continuity is normal.
Old 07-14-2013, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdub View Post
On a ford I believe so. If you diconect the battery while my ford is running it dies. My chevy does not. Nor my nissan. That suggest continuity is normal.
I know with everything hooked up I can put the probes, for the multimeter , to both terminals on the battery and get continuity. On the 2004 F150 I can do the same and not get any continuity.

Any ways I took the starter off and and the continuity issue went away. I tested for continuity on the the starter with nothing connected and got continuity between the small (I?) terminal and the negative terminal on the starter. Got nothing on the negative and positive terminals. I used a battery booster to try and test the starter. With the cables connected to the large (-,+) terminals nothing happened. With the negative cable to the negative terminal and the positive cable to the small terminal caused a popping sound and a bunch of sparks.

Found a number on the side of the starter and will give them a call tomorrow (Monday).
Old 07-14-2013, 09:50 PM
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fixed or repaired daily.found on road dead.****ed over rebuilt dodge.aka FORD
Old 07-15-2013, 10:14 AM
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fixed or repaired daily.found on road dead.****ed over rebuilt dodge.aka FORD


Had a Dodge Ram before this one. Had issues with it but the last straw was the transmission issues. The motor ran real well in the Ram though.
Old 07-16-2013, 05:41 PM
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Since the starter is a DC motor, you will have continuity from the cable through the + brush, through the commutator, and out the - brush to the starter housing. Temporarily check for a bad neg cable ground by hooking one of your jumper cables black clamps to the neg on the battery, and the other black to a good paint free part of the engine. the alternator mount should work. Try starting the engine and see if it turns over better. The battery should be at approximately 12.8 volts. It should stay close to that while cranking.
Old 07-16-2013, 08:24 PM
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most times on a ford truck starter from 90-96 the wire that goes from the soliniod on the starter to the starter motor turns green and melts in 2
Old 07-17-2013, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesse68 View Post
Since the starter is a DC motor, you will have continuity from the cable through the + brush, through the commutator, and out the - brush to the starter housing. Temporarily check for a bad neg cable ground by hooking one of your jumper cables black clamps to the neg on the battery, and the other black to a good paint free part of the engine. the alternator mount should work. Try starting the engine and see if it turns over better. The battery should be at approximately 12.8 volts. It should stay close to that while cranking.
Thanks for answering my question! I wasn't sure if it should or not.
Any ways I already fixed the problem. Found a couple of YT videos describing how to check a no crank problem(s) and it turned out to be the fender mounted solenoid.
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