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Old 10-23-2008, 06:46 AM
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Default Protect your (BOV) Bug-Out Vehicle against EMP



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Another thread spurred this thought. How can one protect their BOV against (EMP) Electro-Magnetic pulse weapons. Being an electrical contractor, electrical design engineer, and electronics buff, I have a good understanding about ohms law and electricity, but not too familiar with EMP weapons.

I think that if you disconnect the battery leads off of the BOV it will help eliminate any potential problems due to EMP. The only thing that I think is at risk is the battery its self, but the battery can be stored in a grounded metal container, with a battery tender connected to help keep the BOV battery topped off. When its time to BO, re-connect battery leads and GO!

What do you guys think?
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Old 10-23-2008, 07:01 AM
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I hope this works...

http://www.scribd.com/doc/246759/Emp

Last edited by MCLMM; 10-23-2008 at 07:07 AM.. Reason: Didn't work
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:04 AM
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Disconnection of the leads Im not sure will work. EMP is a strong, sudden electromagnetic field that will burn every component not properly grounded. Even if you have a Faraday cage theres a % of possibilities it can be small for the intensity of the field. I dont think anyway that can be a major concern...the theoretics, self called analysts of this issues in this boards perhaps dont have a backup when they post on this. And a EMP can come even from a solar spot, or a huge solar storm, it will be very intense and half-world wide...a cosmic event. This should not be your major concern. A proper protection against a lighthings storm, for example, in my opinion would cover your butt in both scenarios. .
Old 10-23-2008, 09:11 AM
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I thought it affected the computer chips in the vehicle.
Old 10-23-2008, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamblinMan View Post
I thought it affected the computer chips in the vehicle.
Me too.
I've heard that if you buy pre-1990 (or something to that effect) the car will technically be safe because it doesnt contain a computer chip to regulate petrol flow, start, etc.
Old 10-23-2008, 09:15 AM
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yeah its supposed to fry little diodes and boards and chips, it doesnt fry wires and batteries. it would affect small parts in your starting system, ignition system, and charging system at least. new vehicles forget about it.
Old 10-23-2008, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrairieGirl View Post
Me too.
I've heard that if you buy pre-1990 (or something to that effect) the car will technically be safe because it doesnt contain a computer chip to regulate petrol flow, start, etc.

lot older than 1990, lol. try like 1970 when vehicles were carbed, and had points type distributors.
Old 10-23-2008, 10:48 AM
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If you really want something EMP proof...insisting in that such scenario is a real threat of course...Id buy a low mileage post y2k japanese medium sized truck (automatic transmission, with computer) and take it to a technician who takes off the EFI system with computer and all, and install an old, reliable, good carb, and a electronic ignition system. These seems to me a much more heavily protected rig.
Old 10-23-2008, 02:04 PM
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Default Computers

Anything in the vehicle, such as the computer and computer related devices will get fried, no matter whether the battery is hooked up or not. About the only way to protect them is to put the vehicle in a lead lined box. Unfortunately all vehicles manufactured today have at least one computer.
Old 10-23-2008, 02:32 PM
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The military channel had a short story on EMP and they drove a car through the EMP test range. Taking the battery cable off will do nothing to save a car that is vulnerable. They die and have to be crushed for scrap.

Breaker point ignition and non High energy spark units are the only ones that can recover. Btw, all cars die during the EMP pulse. The breaker point cars can be started afterwards.

Russia is now equiping btheir soldiers with EMP hand grenades, to wipe out comm centers on the ground as they find them. They are also developing the same as bomblets that can be dropped out of cargo aircraft for miles at a stretch.

Its not all about Nukes anymore when it comes to EMP.
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Old 10-23-2008, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brew View Post

Russia is now equiping btheir soldiers with EMP hand grenades, to wipe out comm centers on the ground as they find them. They are also developing the same as bomblets that can be dropped out of cargo aircraft for miles at a stretch.

Its not all about Nukes anymore when it comes to EMP.


holy crap where did you read that??!! thats crazzy!!
Old 10-23-2008, 05:32 PM
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Buy a large steel culvert with one end welded shut, dig a hole in the side of a hill, bury culvert into hill. Drive vehicle in. Attach steel doors.

I personally would try get away from anything made before 1990. Carb, no electronics.
If you really want to be fussy, remove all computer based electronics in your car, and seal them in a steel garbage can, and bury it. This might help. I don't know, im not an expert. Just repeating what ive been reading lately.

peace
al
Old 10-23-2008, 05:44 PM
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I [honestly] would like to see this theory tested.
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Old 10-23-2008, 06:37 PM
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Stuff wired to the grid will take the worst of a pulse.Its the wires that act as antennae to transfer the pulse to the device.Open air isn't that great of a conducter.For vehicle,I would think just grounding it would provide a path to ground,effective enough to not cause harm to the vehicle.Think about lightning.If it strikes very close to your car,does your car die?Nope.Maybe, if it actually struck it.Same with the house.If lightning nails a tree close by,does the house lose all its electronics?Not likely.But have it hit utility lines,and it jumps thru transformers and nails your tv.Its all about conductivity.
Old 10-23-2008, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffp_032056 View Post
About the only way to protect them is to put the vehicle in a lead lined box.
It does not need to be lead. It just needs to be a faraday cage.
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Old 10-23-2008, 07:59 PM
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best way i could think of was to buy an older 4X4 with a diesel engine, i chose the 109 Land Rover 2.2ltr 4cyl diesel mine was built in 1978.
she required a complete rebuild and a new chassis, i consider the rebuild worth it's weight in gold. i learned everything about my Vehicle and how to fix and maintain her.
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Old 10-23-2008, 08:16 PM
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When I was in the AF, we had a couple of 1/2 ton 1968 Chevy pick ups that were supposedly EMP proof.
6 cylinder, 3 speed on column.

Most of our vehicles were M series or 4x4 dodge or International 6 packs, and we all wondered why the light duty p/u's in the bomb dump.


The motor pool Sgt. told me they came this way from the factory.

This was 1969.
Old 10-24-2008, 09:59 AM
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I'm pretty sure my 1963 Unimog will survive emp.
Old 10-24-2008, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brew View Post

Breaker point ignition and non High energy spark units are the only ones that can recover. Btw, all cars die during the EMP pulse. The breaker point cars can be started afterwards.
Why would the EM pulse stop a car with breaker points? There's no electronics to disrupt the internal combustion cycle. The breaker point car will keep on running. The pulse is so fast it shouldn't even be noticed in the way the car runs.
Old 10-24-2008, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arisinwind View Post
Why would the EM pulse stop a car with breaker points? There's no electronics to disrupt the internal combustion cycle. The breaker point car will keep on running. The pulse is so fast it shouldn't even be noticed in the way the car runs.
The pulse soaks into induction coil windings. This stops them from building up and outputting properly within the range they bare designed for and make a super output, but not one that will burn the windings.

The pulse is actually billions of trillions of electrons seeking a ground. They continue to travel in every direction until they find one. As they begin to find a path to ground they group together faster and faster. This is what burns chips and electronics, The pulse is very quick but for all of it to ground can take several seconds once its inside wiring.

Should the breaker point motor be revved up higher than the duration of the pulse, and travel time of the electrons, as it goes away the firing begins again and it continues to run. Much the same as turning the key off and back on again. If the rpms are up enough you can turn the key on and it runs again. If your idling or at low rpm, you will need the starter to get going cause it interrupted your coil output with a spark that jumped the point gap.
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