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Old 06-06-2012, 09:30 PM
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Default Simple SKS Accurizing...



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So, let's say I wanted to accurize an SKS...

On most of the ones I've had a chance to fondle, the bolt wobbles back and forth a little bit. I'm aware that when SKS carbines were manufactured in the original factories, they pretty much just pulled parts out of a bucket and stuck 'em on the thing until they found one that fit. That said, couldn't I just order a tighter bolt and stick it on there?

Then, on another front, the barrel threads are often slightly loose in the receiver. Could I just stuff the empty space with loctite, krylon, or another epoxy/glass filler?

Thanks guys!
Old 06-06-2012, 09:41 PM
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I'm not sure about the bolt, the Barrel being loose the only reliable fix would be to tighten it. I dont think Krylon, or locktite would last long.

If it was me I'd start with a solid optic mount and get a baseline accuracy. After that a trigger job, I am a big trigger guy. You cant have an accurate rifle with out a good trigger pull. Bedding the action is a cheap option to.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinmanIA View Post
I'm not sure about the bolt, the Barrel being loose the only reliable fix would be to tighten it. I dont think Krylon, or locktite would last long.

If it was me I'd start with a solid optic mount and get a baseline accuracy. After that a trigger job, I am a big trigger guy. You cant have an accurate rifle with out a good trigger pull. Bedding the action is a cheap option to.
Trigger pull on this one is excellent. Is there a mechanical advantage to adjusting the trigger pull, or is it simply that people limp wrist when they can't pull back the trigger easily?

Bedding is another idea for me, just it means that I can't strip the thing all the way, all the time.
Old 06-06-2012, 09:50 PM
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A couple easy things that will help are a trigger job, like was mentioned. Aftermarket sights, and the most important IMO, is quality ammo.

The surplus is ammo is okay but, in order to see decent results you need decent ammo.

Good Luck
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:00 PM
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You are not going to turn an SKS into a 1 MOA rifle. Good ammo, maybe a quality trigger job from someone like Murray.

http://www.murraysguns.com/
Old 06-06-2012, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roaver View Post
Trigger pull on this one is excellent. Is there a mechanical advantage to adjusting the trigger pull, or is it simply that people limp wrist when they can't pull back the trigger easily?

Bedding is another idea for me, just it means that I can't strip the thing all the way, all the time.
Its not so much the limp wrist as it is the over travel after the sear breaks. you are moving the rifle wile the bullet is still in the bore, but its not as noticeable with all thats going on. And a short sear break instead of a grimy, or mile long sear release. I don't mean the take up to the sear contact I mean the actual sear time from engage, to release. One can still have an 8lb trigger pull, but if it breaks clean it makes a difference.

Shooting handloads out of one of my AK rifles I can get just over 1 MOA. Ammo makes the difference.
Old 06-08-2012, 07:31 PM
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I was surprised upon shooting from a bench an early chinese made in the russki factory. a trigger clean-up, bore & muzzle crown polish and nc star 4x glass showed great results. shooting the good Sako ammo was impressive, a better shooter may well have made moa and then some.
Old 06-09-2012, 06:50 AM
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I shoot a weekly military match with a chinese SKS and have a yugo SKS as a back-up rifle. It keep right up with the AR's and M1A's there.

What I did to these rifles.

1.) Checked the headspace to make sure the chamber was tight enough. Look at the throat closely. Make sure you got a rifle worth doing. Same with the crown.

2.) Trim the crown. This is the last bit of rifling before the bullet leaves the chamber. One nicc or some wear and the bullet does not spin uniformly.

3.) Trigger. Remove the trigger group. Wash it with kerosene and a brush. Blow it clean with compressed air. Let it soak in fresh kerosene overnight. Blow it out with compressed air. Maybe brush clean one more time. Then oil the parts. Mare virtually every SKS trigger a ton better.

4.) I do not advise bedding the stock. For one thing bedding a stock works good with rifles that are bolted to the barrel. The SKS is not one of those rifles. What I did do is to make sure the barrel was contacting the barrel evenly. in the front and rear. Keep in mind, the rifle will heat up and the barrel ois held in by multiple points. The best advice is to leave it alone. It doesn't make a big difference.

5.) Sights. Tech sights are a good option. However, if you anal like me and like a clean gun inside and out after every use, the tech sights can be a pain. I prefer the lyman 66SKS sight. They are discontinued as of last year, so they won't be impossible to find. Keep the sights dry, oil makes them glare more. Glare make you groups wider, and it makes them drift towards the sun because of the false sight picture you get from the glare.

6.) If you are a larger framed person, then get a longer stock. A proper stock makes a difference in how you hold the gun. Hold it properly and it's very steady. Don't hold it properly, and your groups suffer. I think ram line still makes the monte carlo styled hunting stock.

7.) Ammo. When I compete, I use H4831 powder, CCI #34 primers, and a 123gr hornady fmj bullet, all loaded to SAAMI dimentions. SKS rifles general have a long throat, so to take advantage of close throat contact, the bullet ends up being too far out. I do have a tight throated yugo sks, and it does roughly 1/2" better with a longer bullet seating. I crimp my ammo, and this helps more than the longer bullet seating. When I am lazy, I use golden tiger. I am a big proponent of using quality hunting grade ammo. Golden tiger is as FMJ as FMJ gets. If using the gun for other than target shooting, get wolf military classic in fmj. It has an empty cavity tip, which acts like a hollow point of soft point. This ammo is much more effective terminally than their 154gr soft points, which are not soft and really do not open up. They'd probably open up with .30-06 velocities, but the SKS or AK's little 30 grain capacity cartridge can not do that. I use sellier and bellot soft points for new brass cased ammo. It is about $10-11 for a box of 20 and is reloadable. I have had zero defects when reloading 3 times. I then put the brass away for safekeeping and then use new ammo. When reloading for other than target shooting, I use hornady 123gr V-max heads.

8.) Clean the gun. Used SKS rifles are so dirty, it is not funny. I push a wet patch of hoppe's #9 followed by 5 bronze brush passes, follwed by a dry patch. It take about 10 rounds of these to get the powder fouling out. Then It takes usually 5-7 copper treatments to get all the crude out. 2 wet patches of ammonia based copper solvent. Wait 5 minutes. Then I put a few drops on a plastic britsle bore brush and push from the muzzle end out 2 times. Then dry patch. I repeat until there is absolutely no blue out of the barrel. When done, I push a water wetted patch twice down the barrel. Then spray some WD40 done the barrel followed by a WD40 wetted patch.

On real dirty new to me rifles, I usually fill a soda bottle with kerosene and put in on the barrel muzzle end. I push a bronze brush down the bore. When it exits the barrel, the brush is dipped in the kerosene. It is a much faster way to get the powder fouling out.

I have recieved a few rifles that were "shot out". I cleaned the guns as described above, then they shot excellent afterwards. One rifle did need a crown cutting due to poor cleaning technique. I bought a few rifles for cheap from people I knew, I then returned the rifle and got refunded the money.

I got an SKS that shoots 2" groups with irons at 100 yards when clean. After about 50 shots, the groups start to widne out. I wait 100-150 rounds, that gun will start to shoot 4-5" groups. That gun shot 6-7" groups before I worked on it with the above steps. Proper barrel cleaning alone got it down to 3-4" groups. Ammo got it down to 2-3". To get to a solid 2" or on a good day closer to 1.5" thats when the rest of the work came in.

Also, the chamber needs to be cleaned. Push a 45 cal brush into the chamber a few times. The laquer coated ammo leaves a coating on the chamber. If you run the gun hot, do not let a round sit in the chamber. The laquer cooks in bad when it's hot.
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Old 06-09-2012, 08:05 AM
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+1 on sailinghudson25's advice and observations.
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