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Firearms General Discussion Rifles, pistols, shotguns, scopes, grips and everything in between.

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Old 05-21-2012, 10:40 PM
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Default Camo with a Clear Coat?



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I have painted a few firearms in the past and noticed that when they become wet, or just with use the paint begins to chip off. I'm curious if adding a clear coat on top would seal this paint on in a more secure and sustainable way. Also, would it add any kind of IR signature? It is a hunting rifle and the less Bambi sees, the better
Old 05-21-2012, 11:20 PM
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I think it will work fine if you add a flattening agent to the clear, to loose the shine!
Old 05-21-2012, 11:24 PM
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or if all you have is gloss clear just hit it with some fine sandpaper to take down the sheen
Old 05-21-2012, 11:56 PM
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I prep my rifles by scuffing the surface, then apply the primer base in Black primer. After the primer sets I apply one base coat and usually start with green. Then I add the black top shade/stripes. This allows for paint wear. When the outer layer's wear the under layers come through. IMO it adds to the look of the weapon. I like the end result better after some handling is done. I have no idea about IR signature!

I wanted to mention I use Walmart camo spray paint and a quality primer.

Last edited by Joboo; 05-22-2012 at 12:02 AM.. Reason: Add
Old 05-22-2012, 12:07 AM
FarmerJohn FarmerJohn is offline
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lol bambi can't see color cammo is for people not animals.

I have killed more animals in jeans and plaid than most hunters with top dollar cammo thats the truth its good marketing that you need the best latest scent blocking widgets.
as to cammo try using a primer base layer and then paint if you want to put a clear coat on it would not hurt
but honestly the natural color of wood maby with some oil is pretty hard to see if you want to do the metal i recommend a finish that bonds to the metal
Old 05-22-2012, 12:28 AM
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lol bambi can't see color cammo is for people not animals.

Bambi can see contrast and outline, and the point of camo is to break this up, not necessarily to match the color of your surroundings perfectly. But how you move is way more beneficial than any camo, so camo isn't 'essential'.

This isn't paint, so forgive me if you are dead set on paint. But they do have this camo ace bandage stuff that I like. Being a porous cloth you can rub it down with some local flora and even wrap some of it in. Just dont set your weapon down or you may never find it.

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Old 05-22-2012, 05:15 AM
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It's an AR platform, so as far as roughing up the surface, I don't know how uniform that would be, but I imagine using a primer base layers, then the camo paint and a clear coat, ought to seal it just fine......and I will make sure to check the clearances on anything I remove (sights, etc.), because all that paint will need to be removed in specific spots to maintain clearances.
Old 05-22-2012, 01:46 PM
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You might try a better grade of paint. I find that Duracoat, properly applied, is very durable. All of the failures I've heard of have always been related to improper metal preparation. Even high grade spray paint is quite durable if you do proper metal prep first.
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:49 PM
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You might try a better grade of paint. I find that Duracoat, properly applied, is very durable. All of the failures I've heard of have always been related to improper metal preparation. Even high grade spray paint is quite durable if you do proper metal prep first.
krylons even prettydourable if done well
Old 05-22-2012, 02:03 PM
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Any enamel paint is good for metal. But like everyone has said, surface prep is the name of the game. And sometimes you have to get really anal and ocd about it if you want a really long lasting finish.

One overlooked aspect of surface prep, which I imagine is doubly important to a firearm, is getting rid of oils and particulates. Hand oils, rem-oil, carbon, metal particles after sanding. just a small amount will flub the final finish. Soap and water (if you are comfortable with this), then a final alcohol wash with a low-fuzz rag. Don't touch the thing for a day, and start laying on the paint.

(my personal favorite is rustoleum)
Old 05-22-2012, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by phoenix View Post
Any enamel paint is good for metal. But like everyone has said, surface prep is the name of the game. And sometimes you have to get really anal and ocd about it if you want a really long lasting finish.

One overlooked aspect of surface prep, which I imagine is doubly important to a firearm, is getting rid of oils and particulates. Hand oils, rem-oil, carbon, metal particles after sanding. just a small amount will flub the final finish. Soap and water (if you are comfortable with this), then a final alcohol wash with a low-fuzz rag. Don't touch the thing for a day, and start laying on the paint.

(my personal favorite is rustoleum)
Sage advice.

I camo'd a Moss 500 with the Krylon ultra-flat camo spray paint. It's holding up pretty well. I used your method and was careful not to touch any metal parts after the alcohol wipe down.
Old 05-22-2012, 09:06 PM
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I wanted to add my two cents from my year and half experince in a colision and body shop. A clear coat is deffinatly what your looking for and with the rattle cans it is hard to find a true flat clear coat or least not at my local walmart but i know in the auto industry you can buy clear coat sold as a true flat.

majority of paint for cars are actual dull almost flat to begin with, we use 2 stage paint its a paint and clear coat are separte. Cheap rattle can paint are combined more like a single stage paint. So when we paint a car we lay down a primer, which acts like a glue for paint. Then we lay down our color, the paint. Then after that we lay down the gloss, which is just clear coat. So next few weapons you paint try and use a primer specific to the material to be painted. That will reduce the paint chiping off. Like I menitoned earlyer the primer is like glue for paint if your not useing a primer chiping and peeling should be expected espically as much contour and angles as an ar 15.

Sorry if I got off topic but to add to something mentioned earlyer in the thread if you just end up useing a gloss or semi gloss clear coat and dont like the shine. Take a scotch brite pad or brillow pad or scuff pad what ever you desire to call it that seams to work better then sand paper sand paper. Sand paper will thin the clear coat and make it less usefull were as the scuff pad will just scuff then shine off.

I Hope this helps and also certainly would help if you could show some pics of the paint job I love to se others creativity camo really shows ones artistic imagination as bland or as exciting as one may be shows in there camo.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:12 PM
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Surface prep is the key. If the camo paint doesn't stick then the clear won't hold it on and it will chip off.
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