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Old 04-04-2011, 01:34 PM
xzxer xzxer is offline
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Does anyone have any experience in reloading ammo?

I just picked up a Hornady Lock and Load AP. So far its awesome.

Im reloading 40 S&W, 9MM, 270 Win, 7.62X39, 7.62X54R, .223, .380

Im looking for some bad ass recepies for some awesome loads.

What primers work best, what cases give you the most reloads, what powders work well, and what bullets are good.

Thanks
Old 04-04-2011, 01:35 PM
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I usually just go off the Lyman reloading manual. It works most of the time but there 9MM loads are kinda weak.
Old 04-04-2011, 01:45 PM
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Check 2 or 3 reloading manuals and you should be good to go. Lyman is a good one.

I know that it isn't what you want to hear but you can not get what you are looking for other than generic loads. The load that gives optimum performance is different for every firearm. What shoots well in mine, may not in yours of the exact same make and model. There are way too many variables for you to use anyone else's loads developed for their individual firearms.
Old 04-04-2011, 01:49 PM
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Don't try any home remedies, especially as a beginner. I've been loading since I 7 or 8 years old. The first thing you want to do is buy a lot of different reloading manuals. Then start trying different load combinations. Start out at or near the bottom of the minimum powder amount, yeah, I know you want to have the hottest loads, but truth is the minimum load will be plenty hot 9/10 times and accuracy, consistency are more important. Not to mention, the less powder you can get by on per rnd, means it will stretch farther. I've almost always used CCI primers, and never had a problem. When reloading rifle I always pay the extra for the bench rest. Powders, again, try several to see what works for you and your guns.
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:03 PM
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BTW, I just noticed you are reloading 7.62x39. Make sure you have boxer primed brass or use the decapping tool if you really want to screw around with the berdan primed stuff. Also, a lot of the stuff is steel, so make sure it's brass too.
Old 04-04-2011, 04:01 PM
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I agree. I have at least 12 reloading manuals.

With that said, a great resource is the Reload Bulletin Board: http://reloadbench.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/Ultimate.cgi

There are some folks on there with a lot of good knowledge.

I too have been reloading since I was very young. It all comes with practice. Play it safe, double check every round before you seat your bullets for double charges, and take it seriously.
Old 04-04-2011, 04:05 PM
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Here is the hodgdon powder reloading web site.

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

and one for Accurate powder

http://www.accuratepowder.com/wp-con...d_data_3.5.pdf
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:59 PM
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others have given you some very good advice.

The only thing I would add is, keep track of every round you make. Case, Projectile, powder and primer.

Make 20 rounds of whatever you want (like 40cal, 155gr with CCI Small pistol primers and 110 powder---just as an example), mark the lot and go test them. if you like them, crank up the press. if you change something, make a new lot and keep track of what you changed.

you might find this handy.... http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

this is an excellent site, but the good stuff you have to pay to see... http://ammoguide.com/

Have fun, good luck
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xzxer View Post
Does anyone have any experience in reloading ammo?

I just picked up a Hornady Lock and Load AP. So far its awesome.

Im reloading 40 S&W, 9MM, 270 Win, 7.62X39, 7.62X54R, .223, .380

Im looking for some bad ass recepies for some awesome loads.

What primers work best, what cases give you the most reloads, what powders work well, and what bullets are good.

Thanks
Whoo boy. Where to start. First of all, excellent choice in presses. It's what I use, and I've got zero complaints with it, it does the job incredibly well. I'm a bit surprised it was your starting press, though...generally I recommend people start with single stage presses, then move to turret, and then progressives, but I suppose everyone starts at different levels.

Your press will do a wonderful job on handgun ammunition, and should do fine on 7.62x39 and 5.56. I've never reloaded major rifle calibers on a progressive, and would recommend that you buy a Lee O single stage press or a RCBS Rockchucker for most of your needs there.

Let me start by saying that I generally don't give out my recipes. It's not because they're secret, but because I don't want to be liable if you have a Ka-blooey. Get a reloading manual for those. I can, however, give you certain tips that may help you along to begin with.

First of all: Cases. If I'm buying fresh cases, I always check starline brass (google it), and if they have it, that's my go-to brass..but that said, you might check local PDs to see if they'll let you pick up their range brass...I get all of my 9mm and 5.56 from the floor of their shooting range. Depending on your locality they may shoot .40 instead, and I get the occasional .308 case from their SWAT snipers practicing. .270 is going to be a bit harder...I like Federal brass, myself, but most typically that means me just buying cartridges in whatever caliber I'm likely to reload and saving the brass, as well as seeing if my buddies are shooting that caliber and getting their brass as well. Most people aren't too put out by giving it to you.

The name of the game with once fired brass is brass prep. You need to trim the brass, and bevel the case mouths. If the brass has crimped in primers, like most military ammunition, you will need to swage the primer pocket to let the new primers seat. Luckily, aside from the swaging, you can skip those steps with handgun ammunition. So long as you keep the CoaL the same by trimming you can get quite a number of reloads on the same cartridge.

Secondly: Powders. Most handgun powders will do fine with the cartridges you're talking about loading. My favorite for 9mm is a powder called Rex II, from powder valley. Mostly because it's dirt cheap. I find it very good for practice ammunition. Varget is my preferred powder for .308, while H335 is my preference for .223.

Thirdly: Primers. For handgun practice ammunition, I'll use the cheapest primer I can use. Wolf, in my instance. For more serious work I prefer Winchester or CCI. While I've never had a misfire with the wolf, I still put more trust in the old standbys, and have been using them quite a bit longer. For an extra 15$/1000, give or take a few dollars, I'm willing to pay the price for 'serious' work. Don't use magnum primers unless the recipe you're using calls for them. Again, check the reloading manuals.

Fourth: Bullets. I'd highly recommend investing in a bullet mold for your pistol calibers, if you're not shooting them in a glock. If you are, you'll have to change the barrel to shoot them safety, and depending on how much you're shooting your reloads may or may not be worth it. If you're not going to use them, it also requires research. But, using picked up cases and recycled lead bullets you can literally shoot 9mm for less than you can shoot a .22 rimfire, and I'd trust the lead hollow points far more than I trust most of the hollow point loaded round that you can buy for less than a dollar.

If you are buying bullets, I prefer Hornady bullets. They have cheap FMJ bullets for practice, and very good jacketed hollow point bullets and tipped hunting bullets. They're the ones I used before I picked up bullet casting.

Fifth, and a final re-iteration....get a reloading manual. They'll walk you through the basics, how to accurize your loads to your rifle, et cetera. Most of your questions are answered there.

Have a good time...reloading is a fun and rewarding hobby, and I use it extensively, when I can get the time. But you do have to be careful, follow published recipes, and double check everything.

Tryste.
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Old 04-05-2011, 08:16 AM
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[B]Buy a MODERN manual, not something that's 20 years old, and follow the instructions and loads exactly as they are printed.
And remember, start all loads (even the smallest) at 10% less than the data.
Be the safest, not the fastest.
Old 04-05-2011, 08:49 AM
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Many times the hottest loads are not as accurate as a moderate load. Depends on what your individual firearm "likes". All the velocity and energy in the world isn't worth crap if you can't hit what your aiming at. Like others have said - start low with the loads given in good manuals. Work your way up and see what your firearm likes and don't go rogue and go over the maximum - they're there for a reason. Record keeping is key in safety and optimal performance.

It's a fun, practical and rewarding thing to do - just be smart and safe.

Just my .02
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:57 PM
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for brass new i buy winchester. im guilty of buying loaded winchester and federal ammo to replenish the brass supply and have had no problems. unless you push it super hot pistol brass can last many, many loadings. lake city is the name of the game in .223 as far as how many times you can load it but the initial case prep is a pain.

powder. i really like unique for pistol and its all i use.
otherwise ive used alot of other powders for differnt rifle calibers and like alot, however i will not be buying any more imr 8208. its always at the top of the pressure scale and i get less case fill than i like.

i like win, fed, and cci primers. no problems with any of the 3.

dont use other peoples pet loads. you have 10 fingers and 2 eyes and you dont want reloading to change that. i will go sofar as to say my .270 likes bullets that are pushed fast. but i never push it past listed max.

bullets. i cast my own pistol and its dirt cheap. and they are nice and accurate. you can buy cast bullets cheaper than jacketed. for bullets with "full lenght gas checks" or jacketed bullets if you will, your going to have to play around. i like hornady, rem corlokts, and have even had success with armscor bullets.

oh, and youll never know when a keg of h4895 will come in handy. you can use it for most rifle cartriges.
Old 04-07-2011, 08:50 PM
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Sorry, but I'm new. And... What is reloading? Do you mean like putting bullets into the magazine or something? Sorry I just want to know. Thank you in advance ;-)
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konagirl View Post
Sorry, but I'm new. And... What is reloading? Do you mean like putting bullets into the magazine or something? Sorry I just want to know. Thank you in advance ;-)

reloading is the process of making bullets at home. Generally at a substantial savings over store bought bullets.

With a good progressive reloading machine you can make 200+ bullets an hour.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/

I have a dillon 550b, I reload 40cal, 44mag, 30-30
Old 04-07-2011, 09:13 PM
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Oh wow! I didn't know that normal people could make their own bullets. I have a Marlin 60. It shoots 22 long rifle bullets I think. Can 22s be reloaded?
Old 04-07-2011, 09:18 PM
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Default konagirl model 60 .22 LR

no .22 rimfire cannot be reloaded.
good choice of .22's you have though. get some brass tubeing 1/4" i.d. and some plastic vacum line caps to make 'speedloaders' for it. a couple - 3 on hand is a good idea
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Old 04-07-2011, 09:25 PM
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you can save some money reloading .380acp. there are cast rn slugs available for cheap that will shoot good.
X39 lots of the brass is berdan primed, mildy coorosive most of it and nearly impossible to reload as the berdan primers are nigh impossible to find.
boxer primed X39 can be loaded many times. and save you some money if you load your own 'premium' or hunting rounds. if you own a 'bullet hose' ak don't even attempt to feed it with handloads it's not worth the time. buy cheapo wolf instead
9mm is just barely worth reloading as the prices have come down to nearly pre-obama levels - but in the future watch for price increases maybe steeply.
Old 04-07-2011, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konagirl View Post
Oh wow! I didn't know that normal people could make their own bullets. I have a Marlin 60. It shoots 22 long rifle bullets I think. Can 22s be reloaded?
for 22cal, it doesn't make economic sense to reload. It's a very inexpensive ammunition to start with. actually any rim fire ammo is fairly cheap.

They manufacture rim fire ammo by dumping a small amount of "primer" in the shell case and then spin it at high speed to get the primer material to the bottom of the case and evenly distributed around the bottom. thats why if you have a "misfire" you can take that bullet out, turn it 180 and try firing it again, I bet it goes off

I reload (mostly) because I am a competition shooter. reloading saves me a LOT of money.
Old 04-07-2011, 11:31 PM
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This should get an award as a "LIfe Saving Post" Follow the book and don't push the loads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by billwilla View Post
Don't try any home remedies, especially as a beginner. I've been loading since I 7 or 8 years old. The first thing you want to do is buy a lot of different reloading manuals. Then start trying different load combinations. Start out at or near the bottom of the minimum powder amount, yeah, I know you want to have the hottest loads, but truth is the minimum load will be plenty hot 9/10 times and accuracy, consistency are more important. Not to mention, the less powder you can get by on per rnd, means it will stretch farther. I've almost always used CCI primers, and never had a problem. When reloading rifle I always pay the extra for the bench rest. Powders, again, try several to see what works for you and your guns.
Doesn't matter which book you use. Get a recent one. I use the Lee book because they work up loads for almost everybodies bullets. Hornady, Speer, etc have loads for their bullets only.
Old 04-08-2011, 11:29 AM
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yep lee is a good place to start. lyman wont hurt if you cast or want to shoot purchased cast bullets. speer is a great book to read, but is missing some bullet weights in certain chamberings, and has scant cast load data.
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