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Old 01-18-2011, 10:50 PM
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Default sighting in Rifle question (ak)



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Ok so I got my tapco sight tool to adjust my ak.

how do you think I should go about sighting it in? I have my .30-06 sighted in perfectly at 25 yards. It seems to be 1 inch high at 100 yards and dead on at 250 yards. (Shot a Coors light at 250 yards first time a blew it up )

should I get it dead on at 25 yards on the "P" position

what do you guys think. I've never sighted in iron sights before

I am wanting to get good at shooting it far distances like about 200 yards.
Old 01-18-2011, 11:01 PM
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Good luck getting 2 bullets in the same spot @ 200 yrds with a AK
Old 01-18-2011, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by lildrestl3 View Post
Good luck getting 2 bullets in the same spot @ 200 yrds with a AK
this video inspired me


he isn't even using a rest. ( I will be using one )
Old 01-19-2011, 08:59 AM
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The 25 yard start is good. Don't listen to these jokers. You can shoot very well at 200 yards. Just practice.

HH54r
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:12 AM
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These may help:

http://www.harvardriflemen.com/AR15zero.pdf

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=18&t=328143

I know it's a different rifle, but learning fundamentals should help.
Old 01-19-2011, 09:16 AM
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Ripped from an old post at "the firing line" http://thefiringline.com/forums/show....php?p=3354604

The question isn't that much of the problem of zeroing a specific weapon as the AK-47, but the caliber.

There are many things affecting the answer which I won't even try to cover:
- what kind of use (effective range interval) ?
- what kind of sights ?
- what kind of weapon ?

Typically the 7,62x39 caliber is used in semi-auto weapons (AK-47 variants) intended for short to medium ranges up to 300m, but not very much longer than that. So most users would probably want to zero it so that they can use it for everything between COB and that said 300 m without re-zeroing it.

The bullet drops of the 7,62x39 are typically (approx. SAKO data) when zeroed to 150 m as follows:

50 100 150 200 250 300 (m)
+1 +2 0 -4 -12 -24 (in)

I think this is probably the best compromise for the 7,62x39 cartridge. Zero it to 150 m and it is useful point blanc in the range COB-200m. When using it on longer ranges you will then have to manually take into account the drop.

If you use iron sights and want to do a fast zeroing you could in fact do it on 25 m with the rear sight set on 150 m and it would probably be very close to the actual 150 m zeroing.
Old 01-19-2011, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hard Hittin 54r View Post
The 25 yard start is good. Don't listen to these jokers. You can shoot very well at 200 yards. Just practice.

HH54r
ammo is cheap enough, so I should be able to practice alot

that is unless people start hording ammo again and create a frenzy
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:22 PM
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I found this info online.


25 0
50 +1.57
75 +2.67
100 +3.27
125 +3.33
150 +2.84
175 +1.75
200 +0.02
225 -2.39
250 -5.52

it appears ak rounds rise a lot more than .30-06 .. which is kinda lame.
Old 01-19-2011, 09:07 PM
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The Marines taught us to fire a series of 3 rounds and then check the target for groups. If you are grouped, then move the sights to bring the group to center. BUT, if you are all over the target, then it is not the rifle, it is your breathing & trigger control.

I found this in my AK Manual :
Quote:
Set the rear sight for the desired range by pressing in on the slide catch and moving the slide bar along the leaf until the front edge of the bar is aligned with the line below the number that corresponds with the range in meters.

The front sight post can be screwed in or out of its base to adjust for elevation. The wrench in the combination tool kit is used for this purpose. Lateral zeroing is done by moving the cylindrical front sight post mount from side to side using a lateral zeroing tool.

If the strike of the bullet is below the control point, the front sight should be screwed in. If above, it should be screwed out. If the strike of the bullet is to the left of the control point, the slide of the front sight should be moved to the left; if to the right, to the right.

Moving the front sight slide to the left, right, up or down 1mm, changes the strike of the bullet 26cm at 100 meters. One full turn on the front sight post moves the strike of the bullet 20cm when firing at 100 meters. Front sight post changes should be verified by a group of four individually aimed shots.
They suggest using a pencil to mark the cylindrical front sight post before adjusting, this way you can measure any changes you make. I hope this helps.

Mark
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:14 PM
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One more thing to add............I've adjusted the windage on my front sight without a specialized tool. I use a socket and a set of visegrips.

Find a socket that fits over the front sight cylinder. On the front sight post, put the socket on the side you are adjusting "towards" (left if adjusting left / right if adjusting right). The vise grip, when squeezed, will slide the front sight cylinder into the socket. Do this in very small increments. You can wrap the vise grips in a rag to protect the rifle's finish if needed.

I hope that makes sense.

Mark
Old 01-19-2011, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
this video inspired me

www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwMmhSWRu3Q"]YouTube-AK at 230 Yards

he isn't even using a rest. ( I will be using one )
Hitting a 15 inch plate at 230 is a LOT different than hitting a can at that distance. You would need a 1 MOA gun to shoot cans reliably at that distance, most AK's are at best 3-4 MOA. Sorry, but AK's are not target rifles.

On bullet "rise" the ballistic charts only work if you know how high your sights are over the barrel of the gun (must be the same as the gun used in the chart, along with bullet type/weight/load/barrel length/etc.) as bullets only drop after they leave the gun. It is the line of sight to bore axis that gives you "rise", it's best to map your own gun with the ammo you are going to use.
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Old 01-19-2011, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyrider86 View Post
The Marines taught us to fire a series of 3 rounds and then check the target for groups. If you are grouped, then move the sights to bring the group to center. BUT, if you are all over the target, then it is not the rifle, it is your breathing & trigger control.

I found this in my AK Manual :
They suggest using a pencil to mark the cylindrical front sight post before adjusting, this way you can measure any changes you make. I hope this helps.

Mark
thanks for the info on one full turn = 20cm at 100 yards . That will come in handy.

using sloth theory that should be 5cm at 25 yards...


After shooting too high at a milk jug at 150 yards I ended up ordering a sight adjuster tool and I lowered the front sight all the way to the bottom. That way I can see where I am shooting and make the adjustments up. If I would have known the info you gave me I would have just left it alone.

oh well though
Old 01-20-2011, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intervivos View Post
Hitting a 15 inch plate at 230 is a LOT different than hitting a can at that distance. You would need a 1 MOA gun to shoot cans reliably at that distance, most AK's are at best 3-4 MOA. Sorry, but AK's are not target rifles.

On bullet "rise" the ballistic charts only work if you know how high your sights are over the barrel of the gun (must be the same as the gun used in the chart, along with bullet type/weight/load/barrel length/etc.) as bullets only drop after they leave the gun. It is the line of sight to bore axis that gives you "rise", it's best to map your own gun with the ammo you are going to use.
I really just want to shoot a milk jug at about 200 yards. your right shooting a can at that distance would be ridiculous. it was hard enough seeing the can with a 3-9x40 at that distance...
Old 01-20-2011, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
Ok so I got my tapco sight tool to adjust my ak.

how do you think I should go about sighting it in? I have my .30-06 sighted in perfectly at 25 yards. It seems to be 1 inch high at 100 yards and dead on at 250 yards. (Shot a Coors light at 250 yards first time a blew it up )

should I get it dead on at 25 yards on the "P" position

what do you guys think. I've never sighted in iron sights before

I am wanting to get good at shooting it far distances like about 200 yards.
It's about the ammo and barrell whip if you fire an ak round after round the barrell whips there is a you tube video about it.Bottom line is if you shoot slow you will get good enough acuracy.a beer can at 250 yards very possible with good ammo and slow fire.
Old 01-20-2011, 10:21 PM
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IF you're not happy with your results, don't go farther.

Focus awhile on making a quality 50 yard shot, then move back. Experiment with targets, different sizes and colors. Remove any oil or grease from the sights. Sunny days, your groups will wander towards the sun. This is glare giving you a false idea of what your sights are. Focus on the front sight, not the target. Just put that focused front sight in the middle of the blur.

Also, practice just using the front sight hood (the circle) for close range shooting, like 25 yards. Don't peek at the rear sight. Put the gun to your face and use the circle. Much quicker if you practice that.

Golden Tiger or Wolf Military classic shoots great for many SKS and AK users.
Old 01-20-2011, 11:41 PM
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Try this:

http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/AK-47_Operator%27s_Manual
Old 01-22-2011, 08:01 PM
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went shooting today..
ak's are hard to shoot accurately :-(

My group appears to be 1 inch high at 25 yards.
I shot a soda bottle at 80 yards and I only had to shoot at it 21 times.

it was really hard because the bottle appeared smaller than the front sight.

The windage pin on the front sight is REALLY tight I bought this stuff at walmart card pb b'laster hopefully that frees it up. I haven't used it though.

I guess it is one of those guns where you have to practice alot to get good at shooting them.
Old 01-23-2011, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
The windage pin on the front sight is REALLY tight I bought this stuff at walmart card pb b'laster hopefully that frees it up. I haven't used it though..
The front sight windage adjustment pin is suppose to be tight. You don't want it moving too easily. That's why it takes a special tool (or vise grips) to move it. Once it's set though, you should never have to worry about it again.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
I guess it is one of those guns where you have to practice alot to get good at shooting them.
ALL guns take practice. That's why the guy who just buys it and sticks it in a cabinet will never be as good as the person who buys it and practices on a regular basis.



Mark
Old 01-23-2011, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyrider86 View Post
The front sight windage adjustment pin is suppose to be tight. You don't want it moving too easily. That's why it takes a special tool (or vise grips) to move it. Once it's set though, you should never have to worry about it again.
I mean it is really tight. the tool doesn't even work. My method for adjusting it is setting the tool on the windage pin then using a rubber mallet to beat the tool so it will turn. The Pb b'laster didn't work
Old 01-23-2011, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
I mean it is really tight. the tool doesn't even work. My method for adjusting it is setting the tool on the windage pin then using a rubber mallet to beat the tool so it will turn. The Pb b'laster didn't work
This is how you adjust the front sight.......unless you mean that you're beating on the T-Handle with a rubber mallet?? Slide a longer tube over the T-Handle and use it as a cheater bar. Like trying to loosen an over-tight bolt.

Mark
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Last edited by harleyrider86; 01-23-2011 at 07:14 PM.. Reason: spelling
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