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Old 12-21-2010, 01:13 PM
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I just noticed my neighboring state has an extra month of hunting, but it's flintlock only. Very tempted to get a flintlock now.

I saw the thompson center firestorm, it has a removable breech and comes in stainless. It looks like the law only states it has to be flintlock and iron sights.

I'm looking at other ones too possibly. I can live with blued steel, but I have to say, a removeable breech plug is a necesity. I want to know it's clean. I don't care If I have to remove the stock or not.
Old 12-21-2010, 01:56 PM
dcliffhanger dcliffhanger is offline
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SH you have some strange ideas.

People have been cleaning ML guns since around 1200ad without removing the breech plugs.

A removable breechplug is not necessary to insure the gun is clean. It makes it easier but is not necessary.
Old 12-21-2010, 02:22 PM
Tank56 Tank56 is offline
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If you aren't that familiar with Flint rifles you could do a lot worse than the TC Firestorm, but cleaning a "fixed breach" rifle is not that difficult or time consuming.
Stainless does give you a little more margin of error when it comes to cleaning, but still has to be done and done correctly.
Old 12-21-2010, 06:23 PM
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I had a Firestorm for a while. Wasn't overly impressed with it so I gave it to my brother and went back to my trusty 30yr old T/C Hawkin. He wasn't to impressed with it either. It was the first year of production so it may have a few teething problems. You want to clean a fixed breech well? Bucket of hot, soapy (I use dish detergent) water, Sturdy cleaning rod (shotgun type is good) the loop style patch holder and for me a piece of sock. I remove the flash hole plug, stick the barrel in the bucket,wet the patch and go to town. The wet patch acts like a pump drawing water up the barrel. Don't pull the patch all the way out though. Pushing the patch down the now water filled barrel you now have a piston forcing water out the flash hole. Do that a couple of times then rinse with hot water. The now hot barrel will dry quickly and lessen the chance of rust. I then run a patch of T/C bore cleaner down it followed by dry patches till I get no moisture on the patch. This is followed by a patch lubed with T/C Bore Butter. I don't use any type of oil- based products on my flinty. I clean the plug opening with Q-tips then the Bore Butter. Put a dab of Bore Butter on the threads of the flash hole nipple and install. Been doing it this way for years and no problems. Hope this helps a bit. O BTW, This is done indoors for me (I'm single). If you have a S.O. you may want to do the cleaning part outside, unless they don't object to the rottin' egg smell
Old 12-22-2010, 04:19 AM
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I know it can be done without a removable breech. I just like to look down the barrel and see it's done right. I also hate to push a rod from the muzzle end. And you need to use a rod quite a bit with blackpowder. I own a stainless inline. I like the cheap insurance it offers. However, I clean it really good. I also run a bit of hoppes #9 down it and a few dry patches a couple days later and then re-oil the barrel.

I saw the firestorm. Found a place selling a "NIB" one for $465 w/ shipping in stainless steel. How is the breech to remove. Do you need to unbolt the stock? Can I put a hawken's based peep sight on it? This just might be the deal breaker. I want a peep sight on it. PA hunting regs are very unspecific; single projectile, iron sights, flintlock ignition. Also, can I reliably fire the gun with goex 4f in the pan or need to get real blackpowder. I probably would use goex 3f for the gun, I have a good bit for my inline.

One of those dolled up hawkens would be nice, but I am really rough on guns. I like the synthetic stock because I'm not worried about messing up the wood.

I use hot soap and water. I pour as I push a brush down the bore. About 10 passes. Somewhere in between i put a bit of brake cleaner on the breech threads and brush out the lube, to ensure corrosive stuff is not sticking to the lube. Then I dry patch followed by a shot of alohol based brake cleaner down the bore. Then I use either pro-shot cleaner (removes plastic fouling) or just hoppe's #9. Then I store with the breech open to look down the barrel every now and then. I also remove the stock and wipe down all the exterior metal with a wet rag, dry, then oil. When the season is done, I get every nook and cranny in the lock mechanism If I can say that with an inline.
Old 12-23-2010, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailinghudson25 View Post
I know it can be done without a removable breech. I just like to look down the barrel and see it's done right. I also hate to push a rod from the muzzle end. And you need to use a rod quite a bit with blackpowder. I own a stainless inline. I like the cheap insurance it offers. However, I clean it really good. I also run a bit of hoppes #9 down it and a few dry patches a couple days later and then re-oil the barrel.

I saw the firestorm. Found a place selling a "NIB" one for $465 w/ shipping in stainless steel. How is the breech to remove. Do you need to unbolt the stock? Can I put a hawken's based peep sight on it? This just might be the deal breaker. I want a peep sight on it. PA hunting regs are very unspecific; single projectile, iron sights, flintlock ignition. Also, can I reliably fire the gun with goex 4f in the pan or need to get real blackpowder. I probably would use goex 3f for the gun, I have a good bit for my inline.

One of those dolled up hawkens would be nice, but I am really rough on guns. I like the synthetic stock because I'm not worried about messing up the wood.

I use hot soap and water. I pour as I push a brush down the bore. About 10 passes. Somewhere in between i put a bit of brake cleaner on the breech threads and brush out the lube, to ensure corrosive stuff is not sticking to the lube. Then I dry patch followed by a shot of alohol based brake cleaner down the bore. Then I use either pro-shot cleaner (removes plastic fouling) or just hoppe's #9. Then I store with the breech open to look down the barrel every now and then. I also remove the stock and wipe down all the exterior metal with a wet rag, dry, then oil. When the season is done, I get every nook and cranny in the lock mechanism If I can say that with an inline.
Wow. That is some mighty thorough cleaning.

With my BP rifle, I just hit it with some soap and water, dry, then run a patch or two with some oil.

It takes me a few minutes and I have a clean bore and no rust.
Old 12-23-2010, 03:09 PM
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I use hot soap and water on regular guns too. stuff works great. I am always worried about carbon deposits acting like sandpaper when your brush. I just like to wash them out as I clean, and the soap and water does a great job.

I recently found out that ammonia based copper treatments should also be followed by a water wet patch or two. They do produce ammonia based salts.
Old 12-25-2010, 11:03 PM
DarkMinds DarkMinds is offline
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Wanna know what I do with my Lyman GP Flinter??..Pull the flash hole, do a couple 3-4 pumps with rod and soapy water, 3-4 dry patches, and put it all back together..Then a pass with whatever oil is near at hand...The gotdamn thing is going to out last me, anyways..

And what the hell does copper have anything to do with BP?

Chris Tulloch

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailinghudson25 View Post
I use hot soap and water on regular guns too. stuff works great. I am always worried about carbon deposits acting like sandpaper when your brush. I just like to wash them out as I clean, and the soap and water does a great job.

I recently found out that ammonia based copper treatments should also be followed by a water wet patch or two. They do produce ammonia based salts.
Old 12-25-2010, 11:09 PM
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It doesn't. I was mentioning when defoulinf copper deposits from reguler rifles. It does produce corrosive salts, although not severe like BP does.

Thanks for the ino guys. I went with buying a thompson center firestorm in stainless steel.
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