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Old 04-10-2007, 11:18 PM
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Default How to break down an AR-15



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One of the drawbacks of the AR-15, the rifle should be kept clean. In this article we are going to walk step by step through the break down of an AR-15.


This is my personal Bushmaster AR-15 rifle. Its been through thick and thin with no problems at all. This Bushmaster has been on camping trips, cross country hikes, hog hunts, thrown behind the seat of my truck and has never given me any problems at all.
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First and foremost - make SURE the rifle is UNLOADED. Take out the magazine, pull the bolt back and look into the chamber. Make SURE the rifle is unloaded. This should be the very first operation in cleaning a firearm, inspect the chamber.
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Second Look at the safety, there is a push pin just above and to the right. The pin is shown in this picture just to the right of "fire." Push this pin with your finger nail, or a brass or plastic rod. There is no need to push the pin till it is removed, just far enough so that the rifle breaks in half.
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This is what its going to look like when you are cleaning your rifle. Notice how the bi-pod helps hold the rifle upright. I only clean by pushing from the chamber. Once the bore brush or cleaning patches make it to the other end, they are removed. The cleaning rod is removed and reassembled with the bore brushes or cleaning patches, then pushed through again. The first few pushes, the bore brush is coated with otters bore cleaner, then a push or two of otters gun oil. A couple of pushes with a bore brush, then cloth patches are used to clean everything up. Cloth is pushed through till there is no residue on the patch. Remember, if it aint OTTERS cleaning oil, it aint jack.
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The bolt assembly breaks down into just five parts. The extractor assembly can also be broken down, but we are not going to get into that.
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Some people argue that the bolt should not have any oil, or very little oil on it, as this will give dirt something to hang onto. If your rifle is like mine, and goes months between cleanings; I would rather have a thin coat of oil, then rust a few months later.
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Old 04-10-2007, 11:20 PM
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:01 PM
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Kev, are you going to do a video, of this one??
Old 01-03-2009, 01:16 PM
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Thank You. Photos Perfect and make good Copies
Old 01-03-2009, 02:00 PM
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I am of the camp that belives in more oil is better. Especially the rings on the bolt. That is the only part I have had to replace, I believe it was premature due to a lack of lube.
I am curious to see if any one has a good way to clean the carbon that builds up on the bolt and inside the bolt carrier.
Old 01-05-2009, 10:50 AM
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skipping the bolt head stripping is not wise, lots of gunk gets trapped in that area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NEWGUY556 View Post
I am curious to see if any one has a good way to clean the carbon that builds up on the bolt and inside the bolt carrier.
the toothbrush like tool that comes with the M16 cleaning kits works good for that, use something like Hoppe's 9 and let it soak in for about 30 minutes first. I also find it is beneficial to take the entire bolt head apart from time to time and scrub it down in really hot water with a strong soap, then dry everything out and give it a wipedown with some CLP or similar product. For cleaning the firing pin channel in the bolt head pipe cleaners work pretty well.

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Old 01-05-2009, 12:55 PM
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If you have some AR stripper clips drop one down inside the bolt carrier and give it a few twists. This works great for a quick carbon scraper.

There are commercial scrapers
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...RBON%20SCRAPER

and
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...RBON%20SCRAPER

But they are expensive. Stripper clips are $.10
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Old 01-05-2009, 06:32 PM
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SD01, Highpower- Thanks for the tips, I will try them out next time I clean my rifle.
Old 01-05-2009, 09:47 PM
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useful info indeed.
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