SHTF axes, is there one in your kit?

[Matt]

Ive been thinking about buying another axe, one for use in a SHTF kit. I have narrowed my choices down to the Cold Steel Spike hawk, and the Cold Steel pipe hawk. Now, in a SHTF situation, whats the possibility of something needing to be smashed vs punctured? know the spike can be very intimidating, and the hammer on the pipe hawk may be used to hammer nails, smash bricks, cinderblocks, and concrete. The Spike hawk is limited to puncturing just about anything, a helmet if need be, being used to climb, or hook.
What is your opinion or recommendation?

and- is there an axe in your kit? Thank you in advance.

Pipe hawk
http://images.knifecenter.com/knifec...ages/90PHH.jpg
The bowl of the pipe is solid for hammering

Spike hawk
http://images.knifecenter.com/knifec...mages/90SH.jpg

[sluggyslugworth]

I have a hatchet next to my BOB, I would bring it should I need to bail out into the country.

[Apocalypse Now]

I have these, the Estwing hatchet is the only quality one of the bunch,I've had it for 25+years. The Fiskars , Gerber and yellow buck are pure garbage. I would like to get a Gransfor Bruks forest axe,,but they are just too damn expensive.
knife pics 011.jpg

[Discordish]

Originally Posted by Apocalypse Now

The Fiskars and Gerber and yellow buck are pure garbage.
Attachment 31303

Im in the market for a good axe... I thought the Gerber Axes and Hatches were decent?

[1984now]

I've got a home depot fiberglass handle 2.5 lb axe and a rubber handle generic brand camp axe (i think it was 25 bucks), get tons of use from them. the cheapo camp axe holds a better edge and wields better than an equivalent gerber axe that i borrowed. I wouldn't be without an axe in the woods, these 2 have served me real well. Definitely get a belt sheath for your small axe, makes accessing it on the move a lot easier.

[trixie]

Originally Posted by IH8PEPL

Im in the market for a good axe... I thought the Gerber Axes and Hatches were decent?

they are. theres 50 million people that say they are good and that one guy who says junk.

[DeadHorrorFan]

Originally Posted by Matt

Ive been thinking about buying another axe, one for use in a SHTF kit. I have narrowed my choices down to the Cold Steel Spike hawk, and the Cold Steel pipe hawk. Now, in a SHTF situation, whats the possibility of something needing to be smashed vs punctured? know the spike can be very intimidating, and the hammer on the pipe hawk may be used to hammer nails, smash bricks, cinderblocks, and concrete. The Spike hawk is limited to puncturing just about anything, a helmet if need be, being used to climb, or hook.
What is your opinion or recommendation?

and- is there an axe in your kit? Thank you in advance.

Pipe hawk
http://images.knifecenter.com/knifec...ages/90PHH.jpg
The bowl of the pipe is solid for hammering

Spike hawk
http://images.knifecenter.com/knifec...mages/90SH.jpg

Both of these tools are designed for hand to hand combat and are not ideal for splitting small wood, or piecing out a carcass. They are lightweight and fast, but not durable. I'd recommend looking into the direction of a Kershaw Camp Axe or something a bit larger. Unless of course, you are in fact looking for a combat weapon.....

[Discordish]

Originally Posted by trixie

they are. theres 50 million people that say they are good and that one guy who says junk.

Yeah I was getting ready to get one based on what I have read... Kind of shocked because they always had decent reviews.

[CPL_BS_88]

i'm thinking of getting a cold steel trail hawk. Are they any good? I noticed a similar product in CTD for about half the price but was unsure because i know the improtance of steel quality. Anyone have experience with either?

I do keep one of those cheep hammer, hatchet, pry bar combo jobbers in the truck but its too heavy for my BOB and dosent chop worth a crap. Im sure a good reprofile job would help...hummm, that may be a good review topic once i get my knife sharpening rig set up.

As for gerber/fiskars; I've had good luck but they do chip out easily if you hit dirt. I know i know go ahead and preach about propper uses...fact is that a good hatchet/axe should be able to take a bit in the ground. I do not like them also because if you do ever need to replace the handle pretty screwed.

[vegasrandall]

I've got a kukhri,pocket chain saw and a gerber folding saw.those should cover almost anything here in the desert

[bluemountaingun]

I would purchase an axe with a poll on the back of the head for the myriad of pounding chores that will arise in a survival/bushcraft situation rather than a spike. You will have a lot more opportunity/need for a flat hammer-like surface than a spike for puncturing. If it comes down to using your axe as a defensive weapon, a poll or blade to the head will cause the same effect as the spike.

Personally, I do not purchase any axe unless it is a truly forged product made with high-carbon steel. A good source for these is the countless antique mall and shops through the US. A good antique, US-made axe or axehead can easily be found in the $20 range. You'll have quite a selection of sizes, weight, and manufacturers too. For an even better bargain w/out sacrificing quality, look for just the head and handle it yourself! God Bless, Jerry

[Goethic]

Originally Posted by IH8PEPL

Im in the market for a good axe... I thought the Gerber Axes and Hatches were decent?

I have had my Estwings for 20+ years... They have seen hard use but get cleaned and oiled after use, and an occasional sharpening.

If you buy Estwing you will have a lifetime of utility.

(Note: these are not combat axes, but rather for woods-work).

[Goethic]

I have several utility axes but none that were purpose designed as a "combat axe."

Here is one that I have been looking at that appears to be functional and well made for combat...

1 csth.jpg
The Cold Steel
Trench Hawk

[MarksInnerDemon]

I never know why anyone gets the combat axes and thinks they are gonna cut trees down with them. Yeah you can, but I made the same mistake, and when I get a real camp axe I was way happier. I pormise you short of getting a good throw which will probably be the last thing I do, my camp axe is probably as good or a bettter killed due to the weight. If ever I resort to it, I won't feel that its not quite right.

Granted you are more then welcome to get the tomahawk axes, but most aren't fun for chopping wood. Then again this is just my opinion and I am not as experinced as many of you on ehre. I could be doing something wrong.

[SeekHer]

A tomahawk is not a hatchet but a hatchet is a small axe...A hawk is too light for camp duties--chopping and splitting wood, driving tent pegs, driving fire irons or lantern poles etc.

The spike hawk is a fighting hawk only and the pipe hawk requires a broader poll/butt (the pipe section) and about one pound in weight to be useful...they are not forged but cast...The only CS axe that I would consider is the Trail Boss--a HBC canoe pattern that has been proven in the bush for a hundred plus years.

Read some of the threads below:

Here is a list of five Gerber and GB Axe threads that was brought up with the search function:
http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...ht=Gerber+Axes
http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...ht=Gerber+Axes
http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...ht=Gerber+Axes
http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...ht=Gerber+Axes
http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...ht=Gerber+Axes

[Hibrion]

Got a Gransfors Bruks small forest axe as a gift during the week. Its attached to my Mapedition condor II. It is a very usable axe, a perfecr compromise between a full sized two handed axe and a hatchet.

[HOTCHKISS GUN]

the est wing light axe is 40 bucks at home depot.
i made my tomahawk from a drywall hammer.

[CPL_BS_88]

Originally Posted by SeekHer

A tomahawk is not a hatchet but a hatchet is a small axe...A hawk is too light for camp duties--chopping and splitting wood, driving tent pegs, driving fire irons or lantern poles etc.

The spike hawk is a fighting hawk only and the pipe hawk requires a broader poll/butt (the pipe section) and about one pound in weight to be useful...they are not forged but cast...The only CS axe that I would consider is the Trail Boss--a HBC canoe pattern that has been proven in the bush for a hundred plus years.

Read some of the threads below:

Here is a list of five Gerber and GB Axe threads that was brought up with the search function:
http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...ht=Gerber+Axes
http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...ht=Gerber+Axes
http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...ht=Gerber+Axes
http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...ht=Gerber+Axes
http://www.survivalistboards.com/sho...ht=Gerber+Axes

IDK, i've seen that trail hawk do some heavy chopping. I'm more interested in the speed in which i can split small wood, rather than battoning it all. I have a pack saw for heavy felling work/getting the wood to size. I'm also not interested in chopping huge logs. Probably nothing more than 4" in diameter. Would you still stay its too light weight for that kind of work? Again It will not be for chopping, just splitting small logs.

[Matt]

Both of these tools are designed for hand to hand combat and are not ideal for splitting small wood, or piecing out a carcass. They are lightweight and fast, but not durable. I'd recommend looking into the direction of a Kershaw Camp Axe or something a bit larger. Unless of course, you are in fact looking for a combat weapon.....

Lightweight and not durable? 26 ounces isn't light. And they are very durable, i have one already, i just want to get a more functional one for my BOB/SHTF kit.

I would purchase an axe with a poll on the back of the head for the myriad of pounding chores that will arise in a survival/bushcraft situation rather than a spike. You will have a lot more opportunity/need for a flat hammer-like surface than a spike for puncturing. If it comes down to using your axe as a defensive weapon, a poll or blade to the head will cause the same effect as the spike.

Personally, I do not purchase any axe unless it is a truly forged product made with high-carbon steel. A good source for these is the countless antique mall and shops through the US. A good antique, US-made axe or axehead can easily be found in the $20 range. You'll have quite a selection of sizes, weight, and manufacturers too. For an even better bargain w/out sacrificing quality, look for just the head and handle it yourself! God Bless, Jerry

Thanks for your help Jerry. I'm settling for the Pipe hawk.

The spike hawk is a fighting hawk only and the pipe hawk requires a broader poll/butt (the pipe section) and about one pound in weight to be useful...they are not forged but cast...The only CS axe that I would consider is the Trail Boss--a HBC canoe pattern that has been proven in the bush for a hundred plus years.

SeekHer, the Pipe hawk is 26 ounces. You either have been lied to or are lying, because the Cold Steel axes are either drop forged from 1055 or percision forged from 5150 carbon, and have a very nice temper. My norsehawk has a ring to it like you wouldn't believe, and untempered cast metal does not ring like a bell. Please refrain from posting if you do not know about the product.

[greasetrap]

I like my lifetime backed Eastwing too