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Silverado four wheel drive problems please help

62K views 20 replies 14 participants last post by  Brettny 
#1 ·
k so i should probably post this on a truck forum, but im only a member to this forum and this is urgent. I just got a used silverado and it hadn't been put in 4wd in a while. High 4 was hard to get into the first time but after that the transition was smooth. Today, I tried out low 4 and when I put it back into 2 wheel drive, the truck would not move. If I put it high 4 I can drive. Also, If I am in two wheel drive and try to put it in park, there is grinding. Im a poor 18 year old with 60 miles of daily driving for work and this is my only vehicle. Any help is so appreciated. I know nothing about vehicles besides how to change oil haha.
 
#3 ·
You might try turning of the engine and trying to shift it. I had a 96 with a manual tranny and the 4wd actuator went out and it wouldn't go into gear. Yours may have just gotten stuck. You may need to remove it and clean it up or replace it. If I remember right it was pretty simple to do, but I've worn out 3 trucks since then so my memory is a little vague.
Also if that is the problem, there is a guy in MT that builds a manual replacement. It allows you to put it in low gear without using 4x4
 
#5 ·
Sounds like the transfer case isn't going into 2hi, and when you try to put it in park the parking pawl is grinding. Try this... with the key off, put the floor mounted shifter into 2hi, then start the truck. The indicator light should just show the rear wheels activated (the front half of the pictogram should be white not orange). Wait 10 seconds or so, then try a forward gear on the transmission (shifter on column). It should drive normally.

When you go to put that truck into 4x4, there is an activator on the front differential that uses heated glycol to engage the right front axle... this can take several to many seconds to work. You can replace them with the newer style electromechanical units that engage "instantly". I suggest googling this for more info.
 
#9 ·
We shift from 4 low to 4 hi in neutral in our rigs,some old, some only a yr old. If it won't disengage 4wd(put the tranny in neutral when you do this) with just shifting,try reverse once the shifter is in 2wd,this works on our brand new(with just a dial for 4hi and low) and old rigs of different brands......works in my log truck too when I turn the interlock off. It'll do that whole grinding into neutral like you are saying as well if we don't go backwards a few feet first in our trucks if things get stuck. Not using 4wd for a long time can cause little issues like this. Mine gets used weekly and I rarely have issues and if i ever do what I posted above always gets things going.
Good luck,
Lost
 
#11 ·
New here, but I agree with lostinthemix. Try putting the transmission in N before shifting the TC. Fluid might also be low enough that it's not allowing it to shift. This year I believe it lubricated be the auto tranny fluid. This means the transmission and transfer case are mated together and the fluid is allowed to pass between them. Make sure your ATF fluid is full (this is checked at operateing temps) and make sure the aluminum spacer between the tranny and TC doesn't have a crack as this is a common problem with the newer tranny/TC setups in the FS Chevys. Hope this helps. Worst case, if you have a 350 V8, you can allows swap in an older TH350 or TH400 auto tranny backed by a NP203, 205, or 208 transfer case and never have to worry about it again. They can be picked up for fairly cheap on craigslist as long as you are not looking for the highly sought after TH400/NP205 1-ton combo.
 
#12 ·
The transfer case in a 95 Silverado is likely an NP241, which doesn't share fluid with the transmission unless there is a bad seal between the two.

The 241 is a good case (but not as strong as a 205, of course). it's used on the Wrangler Rubicons and Dodge Ram Diesels, among others.
 
#14 ·
All great advice.

Sounds like the transfer case is stuck in neutral. If it's in neutral, the truck won't move, even with the transmission is in Drive. Hop on GM's website, in the Owner's Section, you should be able to download the Owner's Manual for free. Look into the correct operation to make sure you're not breaking anything (sometimes they are listed on the top side of the drivers sun visor). My first 4wd without manually locking hubs was an eye opener.

Basic Checks.

Check the fluid, there should be two plugs on the back of the transfer case. It should be level with the bottom of the top plug. If it's not, it should be topped off, but also try to find the source of the leak...

If you're able, check the function of the transfer case shifter with the engine off, it should engage firmly into 2hi (like a manual transmission's shifter), if it does, it's not the linkage. If it doesn't, the linkage could be bent or need adjusted. Have someone move the linkage while you look at it underneath. If it's not shifting into 2hi with the engine off, you may be able to disconnect the lever and shift it completely by hand underneath. If it's still not working, it's internal.

Keep in mind that there should be a vacuum switch on the side of the transfer case that sends a vacuum signal to the front differential. If this is bad, it will keep it from working properly.

Good news though, transfer cases are pretty easy to rebuild with a bearing puller, possible hydraulic press, dial indicator, and feeler gauges. Instructions and a fearless attitude help.

If you're not confident with that, there's the option of replacing it with a used unit, probably less than $200 if you're willing to wait a bit to find a deal.

I'd go through the basics first... Make sure there isn't operator error, check the fluid, then linkage function.
 
#15 ·
Your right, just looked at my books. This tells you how much I deal with the 92 and newer Chevy's. I was thinking of the 2000 and newer NP8 transfer cases. I have had a ton of problems on my 2003 Tahoe with this case, but it's a push button and likes to jump into 4wd at 50mph. It's my work vehicle so they just keep repair/replacing it. I stick with older Chevy's (pre-IFS, 78-87 trucks and 78-91 subs and blazers).
 
#16 ·
Cibholder03, the GMs with the push button transfer cases aren't terrible, but the transfer case encoder motors are crap. They're available aftermarket pretty cheaply now.


I love my 98 Ram with a manual transfer case and Warn hub conversion. Locker in the back, it's hard to stop...
 
#17 ·
Yeah, it's my work truck with 175,000 miles on it, but it's had 3 transmissions, 2 transfer cases, and 2 of the aluminum spacers crack that goes between them in the last 8 months. Luckily, I don't pay for it and the warranties have covered most of it, but it does have a lot of miles on it. I am a big GM 4x4 fan, but just feel more comfortable with the older solid axle/almost no electronic models.
 
#21 ·
I also have a 95 chevy and what you experienced is normal. When going in/out of low range you need to have the vehicle in park or neutral. If it grinds turn off the vehicle. Wait about 20sec for the grears to stop turning. Then shift the Tcase, the start the vehicle.
 
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