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Old 01-01-2017, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Metcalf View Post
Pre-97.5 Dodge Diesels with the 6bt Cummins are basically all mechanical.

There are a few things to watch for. The fuel solenoid is an electronic part. It is very simple electro-magnet type unit. On the 89-93 trucks, this basically needs 12V power to allow fuel into the injection pump. If you switch off power to that wire the truck shuts off. I believe the later 94-97.5 trucks are set up the same way, but with the slightly different inline P-pump injection pump ( oil lubricated unit ).

The automatic 4spd trucks, have a TPS sensor and some simple 'computer' control over the overdrive and torque converter lockup.

The computer also provides control for the grid heater, rpm signal, etc. Most of that stuff is non-critical really.

The lift pump on both versions is a mechanical unit. On the early trucks the lift pump is a diaphragm unit. The later trucks have a nice piston lift pump. You can retrofit a low pressure version of the piston lift pump to the early trucks which is something I typically recommend.

Overall, I think the 91.5-93 Dodge trucks have the best overall combinations of parts. The problem has always been keeping the bodies together over time. The rotary pump 6bt Cummins is a GREAT engine. I would choose the 5spd manual, even the early Getrag unit, over the automatic. The transfer case is an all gear iron case NP205 unit with 32 spline front and rear outputs. The front axle is a kingpin Dana 60 unit. The weakest part is likely the D70 rear axle which came with a factory Power-lok differential most of the time.

My recommended minimum upgrades....

-Low pressure piston lift pump
-Overfill the Getrag with good synthetic 5w30
-Upgrade the front driveshaft to a stronger unit, I did a 1410 non-cv front shaft.
-Swap the rear yokes over to U-bolt style units
-Change the steering to a crossover system.



They are great old trucks, but they are old trucks. They are basically 1970s truck technology....leaf springs, bad brakes, squeaks, rattles, etc. Mine has well over 300K miles on it. It is my daily driver and has been for the last 8+ years.
My 95 Dodge Cummins has those mods and is now in the process of going locking hubs with the 5speed manual trannie.. My son is now driving it in Colorado; has about 200k on the odometer . Extras include K&M air filter, low resistance exhaust with larger pipes, larger wheels and tires, About 22mpg. overbore
ps has 200# steel "Tank pusher" front "bumper"
Old 01-01-2017, 01:53 PM
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Default how to do it

buy a used school bus with a DT360 and manual transmission. also buy a body style you like the best such as chevy , ford etc.. crew cab single cab, k5 blazer, bronco, etc.. remove the body from the school bus. remove the body from donor vehicle and attach it to the bus frame. cut off the rivets that hold the rear spring hangers from the frame and punch them threw the frame. now move the rear axle forward so the rear wheels will fit underneath the wheel wells. now you have a emp proof what ever you want. if emp hits you just park at the top of a hill and start by placing in gear and dumping the clutch as you coast down hill. or 4 wheel drive buy a 4x4 bus. you move to state that does not require physical inspection or a pollution scan. you take in the title for your body and register it just as the title says. if you are a survivalist you should build your own transportation as you need to know how to fix it under all circumstances and conditions. what are you going to do when bugging out and something happens. if you cant fix it you will have to abandon it. if you have a big rig like ive described you can transverse just about any obstacle you encounter.
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Old 01-01-2017, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_John View Post
How long is a long, long time?????

1 year......5 years......10 years?????


We have converted.... My rig is diesel. The wife's rig is diesel. Next would be for us to own a UTV/Side-by-side that is diesel.
A decade or more is possible at the right temperature in the right container.
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZTarget View Post
Looking for recommendations on an EMP proof 4x4 deiseal, for an everyday driver and Bug-out-vehicle?
Thanks for any help
If I had the money, this is what I would get:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0c68L_tieVs


Its bigger than a 4x4, but since I drive a Tractor Trailer and own a Jeep Wrangler, this is what I will get if I win the Powerball...
But its just a 4 banger.
Its just a one wire diesel, and that one wire is to shut it off.
Old 01-01-2017, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insanecandycane View Post
buy a used school bus with a DT360 and manual transmission. also buy a body style you like the best such as chevy , ford etc.. crew cab single cab, k5 blazer, bronco, etc.. remove the body from the school bus. remove the body from donor vehicle and attach it to the bus frame. cut off the rivets that hold the rear spring hangers from the frame and punch them threw the frame. now move the rear axle forward so the rear wheels will fit underneath the wheel wells. now you have a emp proof what ever you want. if emp hits you just park at the top of a hill and start by placing in gear and dumping the clutch as you coast down hill. or 4 wheel drive buy a 4x4 bus. you move to state that does not require physical inspection or a pollution scan. you take in the title for your body and register it just as the title says. if you are a survivalist you should build your own transportation as you need to know how to fix it under all circumstances and conditions. what are you going to do when bugging out and something happens. if you cant fix it you will have to abandon it. if you have a big rig like ive described you can transverse just about any obstacle you encounter.
I'm guessing that someone who didn't initially know how to spell "diesel", like the OP, may have a tough time with something like this.
Old 01-02-2017, 02:57 PM
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People that own boats can tell you all about storing diesel for long periods. You need a fuel/water separator, and an agent to prevent algae formation.
Old 01-05-2017, 05:05 PM
subvetssn subvetssn is offline
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So...let's assume that EMP does fry car electronics. Further, let's assume that you somehow have an EMP resistant vehicle.

That leaves you as the only person in a 5/10/100 mile radius with a functional vehicle.

What are you going to do with it?

How long until everyone around you, police and government agencies included, realize how valuable it is?

How, then, will you keep it?

I have a 40 year old diesel Benz. The only three things with any electronic circuity are the voltage regulator (pretty beefy), the original Quartz clock and the aftermarket stereo that I installed.

I can tell you exactly what I'm going to do with if I wake one day to discover that it's only functioning car in the county: nothing. It's staying in the garage and "suffering from the same electrical gremlins as everyone else", should I be pressed.

Instead, I keep my diesel around for other reasons. For one, it's a hobby. Secondly, I enjoy the classic looks, reliability, and just working on it. Third (and the primary prepper reason) is to have vehicle that runs diesel (or vegetable oil) in case of a fuel shortage. Using it as a bug out vehicle in post nuclear world isn't even on my radar.
Old 01-05-2017, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_John View Post
What's the general conscious on the life of diesel fuel? Most agree that gasoline will last a year without Stabil.....with Stabil....maybe two years.

What about Diesel?
I just drove a car with 10 year old gasoline in it. I didn't plan things that way, but that is how it worked out. My 1979 Datsun 280ZX. I added Stabil to it twice and started it a few times during those 10 years. I tried to siphon the gas out once and gave up. Finally after 10 years - I jacked it up and took the filler neck off the gas tank. I was then able to siphon most out. Gas was very dark and did not smell very good - but the car ran fine.

I have used 10 year old diesel many times with zero issues. In fact - I just came across the first bad diesel I have ever seen. It was in a foreclosed house fuel-oil tank that seems had not been used since 1990. So it was likely 26 years old and stunk like old bad gasoline.
Old 01-05-2017, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyingslower View Post
And so now it turns into a "diesel discussion".

However, none of them are EMP proof. Not at all. They all have electronic ignition. They are "EMP Proof" only if one religiously denies EMP effects and emphatically declares "everything will be okay". I, for one, do not accept 'science by consensus'.

I'm guessing we'll hear many diesel recommendations. Many. But the diesels that are EMP Proof are those without electronics -- and no other.



DS

Um, while you are correct about the Powerstroke, you are 100 percent incorrect about the 98.0 and older 12 valve Cummins.

With a stick we don't even need a friggin battery to run, assuming you can push start it.

The only real negative to the Cummins 12 valve is their weight, which is why a ultimate BOV 4X4 for me would be dropping the 3.9 B 4 cylinder version of the 5.9 into a 73-87 Chevy for the ultimate.......
Old 01-05-2017, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patdaly View Post
Um, while you are correct about the Powerstroke, you are 100 percent incorrect about the 98.0 and older 12 valve Cummins.

With a stick we don't even need a friggin battery to run, assuming you can push start it.

The only real negative to the Cummins 12 valve is their weight, which is why a ultimate BOV 4X4 for me would be dropping the 3.9 B 4 cylinder version of the 5.9 into a 73-87 Chevy for the ultimate.......
Just a minor detail, at least on the 89-83 Cummins trucks with the rotary injector pump, you need 12V power to the fuel solenoid in order to open the fuel supply to the engine. It isn't much power, it isn't a fancy signal or anything. You can delete the solenoid with a special plug and add a pull cable to shut off the fuel supply using the lever on the side of the pump. Once you delete the solenoid the truck is basically in an 'always-on' ready to run configuration and you are basically mechanically shutting off the fuel.
Old 01-05-2017, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metcalf View Post
Pre-97.5 Dodge Diesels with the 6bt Cummins are basically all mechanical.

There are a few things to watch for. The fuel solenoid is an electronic part. It is very simple electro-magnet type unit. On the 89-93 trucks, this basically needs 12V power to allow fuel into the injection pump. If you switch off power to that wire the truck shuts off. I believe the later 94-97.5 trucks are set up the same way, but with the slightly different inline P-pump injection pump ( oil lubricated unit ).

The automatic 4spd trucks, have a TPS sensor and some simple 'computer' control over the overdrive and torque converter lockup.
1st gen VE trucks ( 89-93 )are super simple to make all mechanical, unscrew the fuel shutoff solenoid, throw away the rubber plunger and spring, screw the top back on, and hook a string or cable from the mechanical shutdown lever right next to the solenoid and whenever you want to shut it off, pull the wire.

2nd Gens are even easier, just hook the string or cable to the fuel shutoff lever and pull it up when you want the thing to run.........

As for the 4 speed autos, the 94-95 RH version is a simple 12 volt for OD and TQ LU, starting in 96 they added governor pressure control, which in an emergency could be manually applied, it wouldn't be ideal, but you wouldn't be stranded.....
Old 01-05-2017, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metcalf View Post
Just a minor detail, at least on the 89-83 Cummins trucks with the rotary injector pump, you need 12V power to the fuel solenoid in order to open the fuel supply to the engine. It isn't much power, it isn't a fancy signal or anything. You can delete the solenoid with a special plug and add a pull cable to shut off the fuel supply using the lever on the side of the pump. Once you delete the solenoid the truck is basically in an 'always-on' ready to run configuration and you are basically mechanically shutting off the fuel.
So you don't need 12 volts............

BTW, the special plug is just the top of the fuel solenoid you took off to throw away the plunger.......
Old 01-05-2017, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by patdaly View Post
So you don't need 12 volts............

BTW, the special plug is just the top of the fuel solenoid you took off to throw away the plunger.......
Yes, you can rip off the rubber tip.....or wait for enough miles it happens on its own
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Old 01-06-2017, 07:21 AM
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Chevy and Ford mechanically-injected diesels also use electric solenoids to keep the fuel turned on inside the injection pump. Like the Bosch pumps in the Cummins engines - the Stanadyne pump solenoids are also easily eliminated.
Old 01-12-2017, 08:49 PM
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Default EMP proof Diesels

Quote:
Originally Posted by ClovisMan View Post
98 and down ford f250 and f350 7.3l diesels and 97.5 and down Dodge 5.9L 12v Cummins trucks are the ones you want. They come in all varieties of single cab, extended cab, double cab, short bed, long bed, dually bed, cab and chassis....take your pick.
Actually, the Fords that qualify are the pre-PowerStroke ones known as IDI (indirect injection) 6.9 & 7.3 liters that were manufactured by International Harvester and used in Fords. The early PowerStrokes were also 7.3 L, but have electronic injectors & computers. The last IDI ones were in early '94 models. Also, you'll need a manual trans, because the automatics used a computer even though the fuel injection was mechanical. These rigs are not fast, but they'll pull a house and they'll last a very long time and are simple to work on.

Edit: Also, the early VW and Audi Diesels were mechanical as well, and also simple, reliable, and fuel economy superstars, as in often 50m.p.g.+.

Last edited by sootsme; 01-12-2017 at 09:00 PM.. Reason: Addendum
Old 01-12-2017, 09:01 PM
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I knew a local canola (rape seed) farmer that cold pressed his own canola oil and ran diesel generators on it. Found out a year or so later he was arrested for running a marijuana grow-op, but I guess the oil worked as fuel!
Old 01-12-2017, 09:27 PM
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5.9 Cummings in any thing.
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Old 01-12-2017, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bushboy34 View Post
I knew a local canola (rape seed) farmer that cold pressed his own canola oil and ran diesel generators on it. Found out a year or so later he was arrested for running a marijuana grow-op, but I guess the oil worked as fuel!
+1 to the Ford (Navistar) and Cummins recommendations. They were both my clients in the early "oughts", both good companies. The GM/Isuzu plant in Ohio was another client, and I would never, never want anything out of that plant! Mercedes knows how to build truck diesels, but the few that you can get here don't come in 4x4 chassis.

When I first moved to Ohio I went to answer an ad for a used mower. Farmer had a small-scale biodiesel factory in his barn. He collected used cooking oil from all around, filtered it, and treated it with a large amount of alcohol to make fuel for his and his brother's trucks. I asked him what it cost for all that alcohol, and he answered proudly "Oh, we got a still". That's when I knew I would fit in around here.

p.s. Going back some 20 years or more, a brother-in-law in Massachusetts had a diesel Rabbit. It was almost impossible to start in winter, but it did get 50+ MPG. Another guy, a client out in California, had a Rabbit pickup (!) that he would have married if it had been legal. Almost too slow for California freeways, but it also got 50+ MPG. He was proud of the fact that it had over 200K on it. He was a character. An Englishman, he'd survived 60 missions as a tail gunner in Lancasters, which would make anybody a bit strange. He then got into aerospace engineering, and when I knew him he was an honest-to-God rocket scientist, working on the space shuttle engines for Rocketdyne in Canoga Park.

I'd love to have one of those little diesel Rabbits, but they've all returned their iron to the oxide form back east here.
Old 01-12-2017, 11:34 PM
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Anything with a b6 12 valve cummins and be done with it.
Old 01-13-2017, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud View Post
5.9 Cummings in any thing.
Here's a picture of the only "Cummings" that I know of. Erin Cummings, to be exact. Pretty sure you mean "Cummins", no G at the end.
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