when you get to step 12. STOP!. if you decide like i did not to take the grinder to the trigger pin, you can still lower the trigger pull without sanding,filing,polishing anything. when you reach this step you have already got all of your pins outta the way and if you push the trigger forward as far as it will go you will find it is very easy to remove the spring with a pair of hemistats or tweezers. i took a "bic" lighter apart(lol keepin' it in the family)and used the flint spring. i cut it the same length as the original spring. and simply drop it back in and replace everything in the reverse steps. sweet trigger now!
I'm glad you posted this. I decided to try it on mine but my trigger is different. Mine has almost zero creep and wasn't killer heavy but about 4-5 pounds. I also noticed on mine there were set screws on the front and rear with a jam nut. I removed the front one and adjusted some tension out of the spring (backed the screw out then re-tightened the jam nut) and now it breaks at around 2-3 pounds. That is a guess of course but its just right for me, its just enough to feel the trigger then it breaks clean. I don't know if I got lucky somehow or what, my GF bought me the gun new and its never been tampered with until now. I was under the impression that these guns only came with 2 triggers, the old stiff one and the newer lightning bolt or whatever its called. Mine isn't either of those.
Thanks for posting this, my 100ATR in 30-06 has a trigger pull I need an elephant to pull it, and maybe now I can get it down to where it should be ......
You replaced a trigger spring on a firearm with one from a "bic" lighter??? I would absolutely not, under any circumstances, trust that set-up. Just because the springs may appear to be the same diameter, same amount of coils, etc., does not mean that they are made of the same spring steel. The new spring may work well for a short while, but due to different spring steels, the durability of this spring would be very questionable at best. Even very short term use could cause major tensile and fatigue factors.
Remember, a Bic lighter goes for $1.49 at the local stop and rob. The store makes about $.50 apiece. By time the lighter is manufactured, packaged, shipped, and marketed, I doubt that the entire lighter measures up to 10 pennies in total worth, including the labor and butane costs. So I'm sure that the trigger spring that you just attached to a deadly weapon is worth far less than 1 cent.
Please think about what you're doing, predestyned, and go back to the original trigger spring. Take the Moss 100 to a qualified gunsmith if the stock trigger pull is annoying.
If the owner is happy with the finished product, what would be the point in taking it to a 'smith who would install a different cheap, marked up spring?
There are times when a gunsmith's skills would be a better choice, but so many of these modifications are easily done by the owner, so why spend the extra $$$ to have someone else do the same job?
It seems that you missed my point, Sweeper80. My point is not that the OP saved himself several dollars by doing it himself, my point was that I find it impossible to believe that a flint spring designed to be so cheap as to be thrown away without complaint if it fails with the lighter 2/3 full of butane is of the same quality of spring that I want to bet my life on, or anyone else's life who may be in the woods at the same time.
Want to do it yourself and save a few bucks? Fine. Do your homework on-line or in person with folks who know what they're doing, and get a bloomin' spring designed for firearms, not one designed for throw away lighters.
I was considering having a gunsmith do the trigger on my 100ATR, but then I remembered, any time a gun goes into a repair shop, you gotta fill out a 4473 to get it back, plus any other BS they decide to put you through, so I will either figure it out myself, or leave it the way it is.
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