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Concrete Block vs ICF

24K views 21 replies 15 participants last post by  sunboy 
#1 ·
The wife and I have been planning on building with ICF's for a while. However recently she went to visit a relative and he is building with 12 inch filled concrete blocks. He is also doing it himself and it is taking a while.

I was thinking that if we were to use block instead then we could put foam insulation board on the outside then put the waterproofing over that. I think that it would be quicker as well as stronger. And no I haven't priced the diff yet.

Ideas, comments, suggestions, problems?? Open to all the constructive critisim ya got. Blaze away.
BK
 
#2 ·
I think you have more flexibility with ICF. I did use it in the past and was very happy with it.

All the concrete blocks will be heavy and you will need to lift them up over all the rebar.

Interesting you said "Blaze away" - I think that rebuilding after a house fire might be a bit of a challenge if you used ICF - but that is the only long term concern - and minor at that.

You will have to frame out and put up a vapor barrier with the concrete blocks. The ICF will be ready for drywall right away.
 
#3 ·
I have been a mason for over 7 years and I would agree with 9111315 block is heavy and takes alot more work and care than people think. And you still have to fill the block in the end though I thik they're close in price but it all depends on suppliers and builders.
 
#4 ·
I have never used ICF but have done a bit of CMU work. I think it would depend on price in the end. Also, depending on how you plan to finish the interior and exterior of the cabin/home you may not have to finish the CMU block as if were going to be the finished product. No jointing, etc. Either way, you are going to have a concrete truck there to fill the cells on the CMU or the ICF. Do you have experience with setting the forms for the ICF, etc? With the CMU blocks yo will have to be fairly acurate with your verticle rebar placement when pouring the footing so youdon't have to go back and cut out the rebar and epoxy new in place. In the end, I know CMU and I would probably go with that unless the price was much better with the ICF.
 
#6 ·
the block method is quicker but not as strong as the equivalent thickness of solid concrete found in a ICF. depending on the block supplier and how they set their prices you may find it cheaper to use solid concrete. the block supplier where i live charges something like $1.00 more per sq ft than if the hollow block was solid concrete.

ICF construction tends to be more expensive because its labor intensive.
 
#8 ·
I built a building with 8" block (not filled with concrete) with 2" foam insulation outside of that and thin, flexible stucco outside that. I forgot what the stucco was called. It has worked extremely well. The many tons of concrete and blocks maintains a very uniform temp. year round. That was 30 yrs. ago. I am very pleased with it.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for all the replys. I am looking into the price. I think that if we do go with block we will isulate with 2 inch foam board as stated above. Not really worried about the labor, we pretty much have that tied up with our MAG. I was thinking of filling with a concrete/pea gravel mix as we went up.But whatdo I know... thankful for the internet. It makes research much easier!!
 
#13 ·
i am building a cabin with icf after much talking with contractors this is what i came up with
1 stick build 10,000 dry in no insulation
2 block 20,000 dry in no insulation
3 icf 13,000 dry in with a r 50 wall
when you lay it all out the icf its the way to go.
and i can do all the work my self the block i would have to pay someone else to put it up just my 2 cents if you are interested i can do a thread with pic on how to do icf i will stack the walls this weekend
 
#14 ·
In my opinion ICF is stronger. I have owned a house with a concrete block foundation and after a few years the home had settled and the blocks split apart at the seams and was very expensive to repair. I'm now in a 2000sqft ICF home and love it. Low energy use, tornado proof, nearly bullet proof, but looks just like any other home. Before I moved in the home wasn't heated at all in the winter and even when exterior temperatures reached -5* it was still 45-50* inside.
 
#19 ·
Polysteel

We used Polysteel.com ICF; they have #9 steel wire reinforcing every foot as well as steel to attach Sheetrock or siding with self-tapping screws. You can get them in 9" width or 11", they make a very well insulated house & they are easy to stack.
You will need to brace the walls extremely well before grouting & go slowly, working your way around the perimeter in 'lifts' to prevent blowouts.
We looked at Cob, Rastra & some other options before going with this, we really like the R-50 insulation.
My friend even built a Spanish style house with the flat roof of Polysteel... a fortress!
 
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